s14unimog

Not a lot got done this weekend, I'm going to be honest. Aside from wedding showers and the house needing a pressure washing, I just haven't had the time or energy. Not to mention, trying to source 12AWG ring terminals for 5/16" and 3/8" studs is virtually impossible around here; gotta order that shit too...

I did however get up early on Saturday and knock this mounting panel out. It's made from 0.250" Starboard. This stuff machines great, has a textured surface finish and is a dielectric; so it's a safer choice than the aluminum one I before. The holes are undersized for blunt tip self-tapping screws and I'm using hardware that just long enough for the panel thickness. I plan to mount the DIF fan controller, Zetronixs and USB converter on the back side. Speaking of which, I'm going to try and find something a little better than that awkward thing.

I started with a rough shear cut scrap that was approximately the size. Below that is a similar piece of 0.25" aluminum flatbar set up on 1.625" parallels.



After the feature and profile operations. This is just a simple 3-axis Bridgeport with a DRO.



Booo ya!



Does that look awesome or what?

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

s14unimog

This project that never seems to end...

Despite my updates, I promise I've been working on it. This whole electrical endeavor has graduated into a massive undertaking all on its own. Some how in the beginning I thought this would go quick but despite my best efforts; slow it goes. Here is what I've got done since the electrical panel...

Finally all of my loom, heat shrink and terminal rings showed up... The loom is from wirecare.com and its called "Flexo Tight Weave Flame Retardant". It's really cool stuff but it acts like a Chinese finger trap if you're not careful. Not to mention, 6 hours of looming will beat your hands up. I also ordered all of my heat shrink there as well. I found out about these guys from the "s14 fuseblock relocation" thread a while back and I think I'll keep using them. Although I've seen better adhesive lined heat shrink in the past; they are prompt on orders and accurate on all the random incremental lengths I requested. All said and done, I spent about $113 and bought WAY more than I should have; lol. Better to have too much than too little I suppose.





The ring terminals I bought were sourced through Fastenal. I bought from them for two reason. I could get both 0.313" and 0.375" rings and they were Panduit heavy gauge impact crimp types that are marine Navy rated; like my 240 needs that, lol. Luckily a buddy had a crimper that I could borrow.





So with that in hand I was finally able to finish all of the heavy gauge power transmission lines. Here are the jumpers between the fuse board -- key, key -- starter & alternator -- starter. The ends aren't crimped on in this picture, so I used the painters tape to hold them on while I verified lengths and clocking. Sorry for the 2am, tired, shaky hand picture; lol.



Mounted my 100amp inline in the trunk...




And just a little teaser on how that loom looks...

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

ixfxi

progress is coming along nicely

fyi, the braided sleeving is nice but kinda silly for main harness use. its good stuff for circuits that never need servicing. should you ever need to run new circuits or replace any wires, theres practically no chance of running anything in that sleeving. at least you did the right thing by using the FR type - the standard type will catch fire and STAY lit.

personally, i prefer spending the coin on higher quality wire & connectors as opposed to making it look fancy.. but thats just being a stickler on things.

another gripe about using that sleeving especially in the engine bay is that it does not protect the wires from the elements & heat... its just pretty. but when it gets gummed up with dirt and oil, its pretty ratty looking.

240KAR

Damn man!! I long for this type of situation where I can do work like this!! Much respect sir! Can't wait to see it together!

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1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R

s14unimog

I've started to notice some of the draw backs, with the material in hand now, but to answer your first commen, I wrapped the bulk of the engine harness with the typical plastic spit covering, wrapped with electrical tape, and ran the leads loomed in the braided wrap from there.This will still give me access to the individual leads without tearing EVERYTHING apart; I'll likely never use the larger braided loom I bought. I am also using it to cover the individual ground leads and lower transmission harness; most of that doesn't have any splices in it or its single strand. I've made sure to take any spliced protection to a level that's safe considering the covering is essentially good for looks alone.

I would love to totally redo it with Deutsch connectors and new wire but I decided to add redundant protections and make it look pretty in hopes of catching this drift season.

Appreciate it man! I've waited a while to undertake this much...

On a side note, I picked up some new slotted Brembo rotors from a Mr.Rocket on here (thanks again!) and took some pictures of my bumper duct; now plumbed up. Working on this was a nice break from all that wiring. I'll be back at it tomorrow night and hopefully will get that turn key...

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

s14unimog

Slow as she goes... Last night wasn't too productive but I got a couple things done. For one, I mounted my center console base plate. This will act as the mounting board for all of my other components (Zetronix unit, turbo timer, boost solenoid, serial-USB converter and fan relay). I'm pretty stoked about getting this sorted as it allows me to finalize my EDFC, EGT, O2, gauges wiring, vacuum sources, etc....



I also finished cleaning up my engine harness, which is actually loomed and installed in the car already, but I've some how forgotten to photograph.



I did however remember to take pictures of the coil pack looming; here's a before and after. Looks nice on the motor. I'll post those later this evening or tomorrow. Excuse the dusty hood, the car is dying for a wash.

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

drunkmunky

Great job on the wiring. Doing it proper takes for ever and it is a little appreciated item.

Buddy

Ive just finished up the whole back end of mine and de rusted it front to back. All bar the bay. If / When my SR packs up in the Kouki I shall be coming back to read this up again. Love the attention to details and all the little extras.

Keep it up man.

ixfxi

a lot of people say i am negative

and you are all very right, i am a very, very negative person.

so i would like to quote the above post as a sample of my kind and gentle side


with that said, i was taking a leak thinking about this thread. i would like to give a thumbs up (with my other hand, the one not holding my penis) to the s14unimog. for a guy doing what appears to be almost all of the work single-handedly, he's doing a fantastic job.. for fucks sake, even the paint is turning out real nice WITH that shitty shop-vac make-shift spray booth. and whats even more impressive is that he appears to have a machinists mentality or background, whichever... which basically means that machinists are rarely artistic because he thinks with numbers too much.

either way, i like this thread and would like to give it my approval. two thumbs up and an erection, nice job.

jr_ss

So, you either way you made a mess, because you are no longer aiming with one hand and it's damn near impossible to piss into a toilet with an erection...

But on a serious note, I do agree, he's doing some legit work..

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s14unimog

man, don't I know it; lol.

Thanks bud, good luck with it.

Right on man; I appreciate the props. I hope I can prove to people that you don't have to have a ton of money or resources (although it helps), you just have to give a fuck and commit to not half-assing it.

Thanks bud, I hope yours is coming along well.


Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been in a mad dash to get everything done and sort the last details before time comes to turn key. As you guys saw, I went deep into the wiring, systematically de-pinning and eliminating ALL circuits that no longer served a purpose. A lot of people have asked me why; if its just a drift car then what gives. That's where I guess I'm different. I consider a drift car just like any other purpose built machine. Do it right and you won't spend your days fighting problems or areas that didn't receive enough attention. I've also educated myself on the inner workings of my entire engine and chassis harness. If there is a problem, I know just where to look.

Now for the bad news.

I had a lot of great pictures and the original start up video on my iPhone. Well unfortunately for me, I left my virgin condition phone on the hood of my Jeep, then forgot about it and drove about 2 miles before it slid off. The case didn't help... So I killed it in epic fashion.



Fortunately for me, I use my wife's Macbook to load music and iTunes is a god send. I'd like to take a moment and thank who ever the genius over at Apple was that decided to instruct iTunes to save your contacts, personal settings, photo's etc... Essentially $700 later, I'm back like it never happened. Unfortunately however I hadn't downloaded anything lately so I lost those more recent shots and video.

However! Not before I uploaded the video to FB (don't hate). So, if you really want to see it and have the patients to use that website. Here is the link to that. Otherwise you can check out the video I shot the other night.

FB link - first start

First night out - no boosting

To close out the wiring project, I tried to snap a couple pictures from under the dash; I'm not taking it back off just for pictures, lol. Basically what I did was split the forward chassis harness so that only the necessary connections for the lighting, brake light and fan ran over the drivers fender (when I say over, I mean to say I removed the driver fender and secured it to the top of the uni-body rail) and then ran all the power connections for the kick panel, head lights, brights, etc... to my Blue Seas power block. Here are a couple shots of that.





Once I got everything wired up, there was a quiet moment before I put power to the block. Luckily when I turned the battery key to the "ON" position the car didn't burn to the ground; lol, I knew it wouldn't. Then I moved to turn the ignition. Since I had the dash off while testing all of this, I sorta lost reference for where the wiper switch was and had a bit of a scare when I turned the key and the wipers were on full speed. For a second the thought crossed my mind, "what the fuck did I do that could have caused that!" Luckily they were just at the "on" position; whew...

After that I went on to try starting the car. She wouldn't fire without some throttle and sounded like a subaru when it was running; surely I was down a cylinder and it wasn't the timing. Or was it any one of the MANY connectors I de-pinned so I could loom the harness ??? fortunately it was just the #3 injector not "clicked" into position. After that the car fired right up. All systems go from fuel pressure, oil pressure, head lights, brake lights, blinkers, EDFC, everything. I can't believe it, after all that, I just forgot to plug something in all the way; I'll take that.

Since that night, I've just been buttoning up the little details. bled out the new steering rack with my Chase Bays reservoir and line kit; which is working flawlessly. I roughed in my alignment and I'm accruing miles for break in. I plan to hit about 500 before she see's boost so I'll be setting a dyno date within the next week. I've already set up an appointment for corner weighting and alignment with a cool shop that builds Porsche cup cars. Its fun to be around a group of guys who have no idea what drifting is about yet they blast around road courses in 100k sports cars; cracks me up to see them crawl all over my build. Anyways, more video's to come but I think we're pretty much done here. Can't wait for my first event!!!







Look for the bumper duct next to the fog light opening...

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Fu*king ginger bread man stole my wallet...

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

ManoNegra

Congratulations, car looks good.

Highway Riding

Clean outcome for sure. Feelin the oem look..

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The Sun Rises in the East!

OutlawLui

Damn that's a inspiring project

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Pinggg

Glad to see her up and running! Post up dyno sheets when you dyno her!

yomisiu

looks great, nice build

s14unimog

Hey thanks guys! I will most definitely be posting the dyno results and video just as soon as I get her up there. Should be within the next couple weeks.

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

ixfxi

what? car looks fucking GREAT. attention to detail with this guy's car is insane. he didnt go cash-crazy on parts, but regardless.. its the work that impresses me. well everything but that bullshit hid kit, but hey its your car.

funny to see your car in the same stages that my car is in, and now your car currently runs. i can only wonder and hope that i'll have time to finish my project(s) up... oh well.

congrats on it starting with little headache.

future

I spent hours and hours reading through all the threads posted in the first post of this thread and reading thriugh this thread. Thought i earned a post for reading all that. And i didn't even have to just skip through till i saw pictures. You kept in entertaing. Good shit!

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s14unimog

Hey hey hey, I know they're H4 conversions but they look a hell of a lot better than the incandescents; plus they've got cut-offs and I aim them low. That's got to count for something right; lol? Thanks for the props, and you said it, I'm so relieved I didn't get that many gremlins. Good luck with yours; got a link?

Hey. I tell it like it is.

Not much to tell as of lately though. As of today, I just capped about 300miles and everything looks well. There were a couple of hick-ups I had to sort last week though; one of which being the clutch hard line. It was rattling against the firewall with the absence of the OEM separators; since they were dry-rotten and falling apart. A buddy of mine showed me a pretty clean way to bind them together with zip-ties and that worked like a champ. I know it sounds hooky, but I promise, it works well and looks good. I also got a coolant leak from the smaller ~1/2 line that leaves the back of the thermostat housing, but that turned out to be those constant tension clamps. I figure its a mixture of their tension slacking out and the age/elasticity of the hose. Sorted that with a pair of worm clamps. Other than that, I've just been driving it; racking up miles.

To note something about my improvements, specifically the suspension, its a lot more tolerable than I thought it might be. I had mixed feelings about the solid sub-frame and diff mounting, but its barely, if almost unnoticeable, louder than before. I get the occasional creak from the resistance in the poly mounts but all in all it's pretty quiet. Surely its got to do with me keeping my interior, but shit I'll take that. Maybe the rubber isolators, in this version of the SPL subframe mounts, makes that big of a difference.

...a picture b/c we're talking about it. It's raised as high as the mounts will allow.



In regards to performance or handling improvements, I can say one thing is for sure. Before all of this it was very difficult to get into the garage "just right". That's to say, without dragging the down pipe. After the poly mounts and the solid sub-frame mounting, I three wheel higher and sooner than ever. So that's rockin! The tell all will surely be after I can put the power down though.

Btw, here's a consolidated look of all the wiring I removed from the car. Even after all this, you've still got power windows, mirrors, door locks and a dome light (you can't have my dome light!). I'd say 8lbs max; lol. I wonder what the scrap yard will give me?




On another note, my new laptop showed up so I spent some time this evening checking my consult hook up with Nistune. This was the first time I've tested this since the wiring work and the first time I've attempted using it with Windows 7. Happy to report; no issues. Not to mention, no issues with the ECU; no fault codes up either. I haven't delved too far into this latest software update but I did notice the addition of a "knock map copy"; this will save me and the tuner some time on the dyno. I've got to grow a set and tune my own shit one of these days.... I'll post up a couple screen shot from Nistune later; I'm tired and going to bed.

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Om1kron

I saved that box of wiring for spare pins and shit throughout my build lol. Came in handy, then Jeff decides he wants to wire cars for a living and gets tons of the milspec shit. Wish he would've went into business earlier =( I like your airbag panel, looks really clean, I'd highly recommend some kind of locking nuts for the back of it however, the car will eventually vibrate those loose and cause you an unnecessary headache.

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Wayne

Bwayan

Wow i must say... all the small details you put into the car is priceless! car looks fucking fantastic!

s14unimog

Which one; the (4) connecting the panel to the dash bar? I doubt it, they're biting into the plastic pretty nicely. all of the others on the fuse panel are serrated on the bottom, so they should stay still as well. Either way, thanks for the heads up, only time will tell.

Thanks! Although each one just looked like the next thing in line to work on; lol.

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Om1kron

Also if you ever have the car dyno'd or tuned they're going to chop one of these back open to get to the service wire fyi.


These two guys on the left on your on/off switch. Just saying they could potentially vibrate loose over time and cause some funky problems.

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Wayne

conrad_s13.5

....shit looks great mang!

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s14unimog

^'preciate it!


Na, they won't have to. I left the service wire loop accessible; it must just be folded under in that picture. This motor will most definitely see its first flow of boost on the dyno. Oh okay, I see where you're saying now. Those actually have lock-washers under each...

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d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Om1kron

oh okay then, all bases covered. haha I was all butthurt when they cut open my masterpiece, I fixed it, turns out I didn't use adhesive heat shrink after some time. had to cut it open again. lolz

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Wayne

ixfxi

no, it counts for shit. there's no exception to the rule, hid kits are a waste of time and just plain stupid. there is a good reason why they are outlawed in practically any civilized country with lighting standards. a pair of good quality halogen bulbs is what that headlight assembly is designed for, and it is optimal. spend some time analyzing beam patterns and you'll understand

my build? i am past the boner stage, i've lost interest for the time being. acquiring new AC components, AN plumbing, and numerous parts that have been on order from nissan japan for (several) years has made me lose interest. anyway.

car looks good, keep up the good work

s14unimog

Dyno date scheduled! I'm looking to be tuned and back boosting by Thursday of next week. Apparently it was the soonest window where I could get a morning run. As for the current state of the car, its at 650miles with no issues outside a broken clutch linkage. Although it happened when I was 50 some odd miles from the house, only one side actually broke and I was able to get enough TOB travel to shift without any issue. Needless to say, I did a bunch of high RPM first to fourth shifts and limped it back home. No worries though, 2 days later I had another one from Nissan (~$11) so that's water under the bridge. Surely it just fatigued from all the clutch kicks and the over-rated pressure plate.



As promised, I also took a minute to get a screen shot of the Nistune connected with the car running. Pretty cool stuff.



Stay tuned for power numbers!!!

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KoukiMonsta

HECK YES!

cant wait to see the dyno info

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