Revise and rebuild I suppose... - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s14unimog · 10-08-2011, 10:48 PM

What's funny is that these days, this isn't really anything special. Guy has an S14 with an SR in it; seen that before. Some how I find myself just a little different from the typical drift car/owner combo though. I figure if you're gonna do it, you need to commit to it and figure out the details. IF not, you really shouldn't (in an opinion that doesn't really matter) be doing this; sorry I don't approve of doing stuff the easier quicker way.

Now don't get me wrong, I don't have unlimited resources or funds for my car. I earn a decent salary but mainly flip bikes and cars to support the higher dollar parts. I try to do things the best I can, so typically that yields a functional part that isn't overly pretty. Either the case, here is what I'm doing.

This is a brief history on the car.

Bought in 2003 basically stock, SE, Mediterranean Blue, 53k miles. Look how proud I was

I was pretty stoked to be driving this to highschool; drifting wasn't "cool" yet and V8's meant business. I can still hear the Honda's leaving the parking lot and trying to catch their shifts so it sounded like they weren't automatic; you know what I'm talking about. That shit cracked me up.

I pretty much hit Ziliva right after getting the car, I remember seeing an SR for the first time and thinking that was amazing. Those cars had a presences and it was not a common thing. Now I'm not getting into this who was in to 240's sooner bull shit. That stuff was new to me and the community was fairly small. This sorta talk seems to incite that annoying conversation.

A couple years went by, I went to college and finally had enough money and experience to attempt turboing the KA. I was orriginally surprised when it got the attention it did, I just couldn't afford an SR and wanted to be boosted. Drifting isn't fun with an N/A KA. That's when I did this thread.

So the car went a little further. Made 209whp @ 10psi with a T25 and sidemount from an SR.

A couple years after that, I bought a black top, put some old Volks on it and coilovers.

Then a deal came up with a buddy of mine that was selling his GT28RS SR car that had some knock. Basically buy the car, swap the engines, my BPU setup for this moderately tuned one, plus a bit on top to repair the damage in the other. Seems simple enough.

So I picked a holiday weekend and got to it. I basically needed the black car with my engine so I could get to school on Wednesday.

At this point I wasn't driving the blue car anymore, which was a weird feeling. I rented a storage unit down the street and had the short block assembled by a Tiger Racing. After a couple discussions with Sam, the owner of the shop, he had convinced me to ditch the 28RS and go for more power with the 20G. So that's what I did. Basic specs are as follows...

-S14 SR block (VVT plugged) / s13 SR head / 264 HKS cams / Eagle rods / ARP head studs / Cosworth 1.5 MLS / TD0620G turbo / 740's / Nistune / All New bearings / guides & chain. Basically the works on stock pistons. The car made 394whp @ 18psi. Also made a couple exterior & suspension improvements along the way. You can read more about that here

After this the car was pretty solid. I drove it to and from the drift events pretty consistently. The car was stupid fast and never gave any headache until one night. Unfortunately I had never noticed the pedal range of motion compared to the throttle cable pull length and broke a throttle body hinge, dislodging one of the screws. The number 4 ate it and while doing so threw a rocker. Sounded like that terrible engine failure sound from a big turbo Supra video. Repaired that...

By this time, I had things back together with new valve guides in a spare head I had. The car ran pretty solid for another stretch before finally shattering the ring lands on the #1 after some winter weather spikes; 23psi. Here is how it looked around then. I finally got some solid wheels, and touched up a few more things; mainly in the interior.

s14unimog · 10-08-2011, 10:59 PM

Here is the damage. After a leak down test confirming the number one was at fault, I got to put eyes on the issue.

What the catch can was showing....

Luckily the block wasn't damaged... I was expecting some unrepairable carnage to those cylinder walls, but I couldn't find a single mark.

So off to the machine shop it goes. The goal this time for the car is to improve some of the off-boost response and clean things up a bit. So here are the improvements. It's a decent list but a convenient time to get at it.

Engine:

CP 9:1 87mm pistons
Eagle rods
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
ACL race bearings
Cosworth 1.2mm MLS
Balanced rotating assembly
Polished crank

Chassis related:

shorter charge piping
tubed front fenders
solid subframe mounting
minimalism harness
general clean up of engine bay
repair PS leak issues
repair transmission issues
make something even cooler.

420sx · 10-08-2011, 11:31 PM

looks fun man. sounds like my story all goes back to 04. except mine went ka/sr/ls1.

keep it posted on the work with plenty of pics.

Eyegazm · 10-09-2011, 03:03 AM

looks good, keep em coming!

s14unimog · 10-09-2011, 10:22 AM

With the motor out of the car, and the problems identified, the block is off to the shop for inspection/machining. At this point I wasn't sure if we needed to over-bore the block b/c as I said there wasn't any damage so I held off from buying pistons until I got some word back from the shop. After a complete tear down there and some checking, we decided it would be better off to go with a set of 87's and rebore/hone. More on that a little later.

With the engine out, I was left with this. Usually the sight of my car in this condition starts to raise frustration b/c I've previously done all my swaps and builds in either an apartment complex parking lot or the back driveway behind my dad's house; neither of which makes for an enjoyable experience. With my new to me house and a disconnected 2 car garage, I'm set to take my time and really build what I want.

In an attempt to keep some room in the shop, I decided to leave the engine bay alone for a bit and turn my attention to the rear. I figured, it might go quicker and its pretty straight forward. So thanks to SPL the first of new parts show up for my solid sub frame mounting

Diff bushings

V2 solid mounts with removable spacers.

Before all of this, I had spent a little time upgrading bits back here but nothing as serious as this and with the subframe out from under the car it was time to see what the last couple years of drifting had done. So as most people often see, my slip-in collars couldn't prevent the inevitable bushing tear. Both fronts were almost completely severed and the ES poly bushings I had for the diff (including my track day worm clamp fix) weren't looking so good either.

All modifications to this point were: slip-in subframe collars / ES diff bushings / CS poly hangers / CS multi-links / some eccentric poly bushings for camber correction (the first mod the car saw after springs, lol) / the billet spacer I made for the driveshaft after switching from an ABS VLSD R200 to a non-abs housing that I put a KAAZ unit in and the 300zx rear brake/ebrake assembly.

This is how that tear down went. The most un-fun thing ever. burning them out is NOT the way to do it. That process is messy, takes forever, and stinks. I used my drill and went around drilling holes until the center of the bushing would come out. Then took a reciprocating saw to cut the majority of the bushing and finally ending with a hack saw. I like to use the hack saw towards the end b/c the bushing will pinch the saw once its completely cut. You can't tell what's going on with the power saw and risk cutting up the subframe.

Voila!

Welded on some heavy case washers to lock out the eccentrics and pressed in all of the bushings. I must have taken that last picture before the diff bushings went in.

So then I though, if I've come this far, I might as well do a bit more. So I pulled all the control arms, pressed out all of the old bushings and ball joints.

With everything in hand, and ready for new parts I wasn't feeling the dodgy look of all the parts. So I had everything powder coated fine texture black; because why not? Also bought all new ES black bushings, and ball joints for the spindles, lower and forward control arms.

HPKMotorsports3 · 10-09-2011, 12:21 PM

sweet progress man... what else do you have planned?

s14unimog · 10-09-2011, 03:14 PM

^ A good bit actually, I'm trying to cover everything I listed up above.

va240dude · 10-09-2011, 05:06 PM

Love that power coat black work, suspension parts look dope. Great job!

Trap Star · 10-09-2011, 05:29 PM

Whos doing your machine work? I haven't decided on a machine shop yet, I kind of want to go to someplace that is at least a little bit familiar with SR's.

chituntang · 10-09-2011, 05:30 PM

Met you a few times on a dyno day, buying stuff from you, etc... Know exactly what you are talking about and most of the stuff you went through. Too bad I am leaving the country by the end of this year and heading home for quite some time before even considering coming back so no more S-chassis money pit for me...

Keep it up!

P.S. "No Zenki love?!" quoted from you...

s14unimog · 10-09-2011, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by va240dude

Love that power coat black work, suspension parts look dope. Great job!

Thanks! I don't see any use it coating those parts a loud color.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trap Star

Whos doing your machine work? I haven't decided on a machine shop yet, I kind of want to go to someplace that is at least a little bit familiar with SR's.

I had David over at Carroll's Engine Rebuilders do the machine work. Let me tell ya, this guy is meticulous and has been building engines for the last 35 years. He's always done all the work to any of my engines and it's always been the most incredible detailed oriented work for the best bargains. I was originally concerned he would be a little lose with the SR but not at all. When get to some of the engine stuff, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chituntang

Met you a few times on a dyno day, buying stuff from you, etc... Know exactly what you are talking about and most of the stuff you went through. Too bad I am leaving the country by the end of this year and heading home for quite some time before even considering coming back so no more S-chassis money pit for me...

Keep it up!

P.S. "No Zenki love?!" quoted from you...

Nice! Maybe over at Mainstream or Balanced? I'm sure I would remember the face. Gotta love that Zenki face. I've got some new goodies for that too.

Trap Star · 10-09-2011, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I had David over at Carroll's Engine Rebuilders do the machine work. Let me tell ya, this guy is meticulous and has been building engines for the last 35 years. He's always done all the work to any of my engines and it's always been the most incredible detailed oriented work for the best bargains. I was originally concerned he would be a little lose with the SR but not at all. When get to some of the engine stuff, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Nice, I'll have to check them out. I just need to get the head decked and get my bottom end checked out just to make sure everything is good down there so its pretty basic stuff but I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon so I'd like it to be done right the first time around.

igreek · 10-09-2011, 06:22 PM

Nice build man! Think I met you one time at Lanier Speedway. We were talking about me going KA-T.

s14unimog · 10-10-2011, 01:35 PM

UPDATE

So I took a minute and got the parts together. I think everything looks WAY better as one color. I've gotta tell ya, pressing in those ES bushings can be a real PIA. The ones for the spindle are one piece bushings and getting that first edge to collapse, without the bushing shooting out of the arbor press, can be tricky. Also I got a chance to confirm that rear ball joints on the S14 are in fact identical front and rear. It's amazing how difficult it is to confirm this; as if everyone on the internet is afraid to confirm this. Enough talk, on with the pics!

Now before anyone says anything about the ball joints, let me explain my reasoning here. I've read through the "roll center" thread, read through threads on NRR and participated some in the discussions. I realize that offsetting the joint location, as these do here, is not the fix for roll center adjustments. What I do know is that I'm not nearly as low as a lot of you try to go for. I still want a decent suspension stroke and have no interests in being as low as possible. The offset location in these will reduce the static angle on the ball joint, which will help their life, it also lowers the arm enough to avoid gaining positive camber on compression. I may change this in the future but for now, I'm going to give them a shot. For reference, I run Tein Flex's with 8kg/s front and 7kg/s rear springs. Considering most drift cars this is much softer and provides me a lot of suspension movement; I just have to sit up higher to prevent bottoming out the shock/wheel.

Here is everything fitted to the car.... I raised the rear as much as I could. Tubs are up next!!!

Edwin562 · 10-10-2011, 01:44 PM

nice progress....

Okinawandrifter87 · 10-10-2011, 08:39 PM

Loving the progress! Subscribed.

420sx · 10-10-2011, 08:52 PM

attention to detail is where its at

s14unimog · 10-11-2011, 02:18 PM

Tub Time!

Since I don't sit slammed I really didn't have many rub issues. Occasionally at some drift events, with banked turns, I would get that over the hood smoke from the front at full compression but it was nothing more than a highly polished spot on the inner fender. What really drove me to do this was the previous owners attempt to route piping. Now I bought my car stock but came to find out that the previous owner had attempted a T3 KA-T setup but popped the motor shortly after the install. They replaced the KA, took it as much as possible back to stock and he traded it in to a Subaru dealership for a WRX.

With the motor out of the bay, you can really see why I wanted to address this...

(the second picture was after a small amount of cutting. I basically connected the holes to the factory hole where the harness was routed)

Here is how it went from there...

Here is everything I pulled, Took a minute and dropped a lot of the factory brackets as well. I grabbed one of those spot well drills from Harbor freight and it worked like a champ. I will admit though, those things will get away from you. If you've ever used one, then you know what I'm talking about.

And with the tires back on and weight on the car at full lock...

240Shwag · 10-11-2011, 07:15 PM

Those spot weld drill bits are pretty handy. I used a center punch to make a good place for the centering post to ride in.

Your progress is awesome.

s14unimog · 10-13-2011, 08:19 AM

^ ya I did the same but some times it still gets out and walks across the sheet metal, leaving you with some interesting swirl marks; lol. Thanks!

s14unimog · 10-13-2011, 08:46 AM

Tubs Con't

So as most do, I took the trailer fender route. I really like the radius you get from the stamping over rolling a sheet myself. Not only does it look better, it's surely a stronger piece. I picked up one from the Tractor Supply Store for $45

With my handy spot weld drill, I knocked the back panel out.

Once I took a minute to think about the next step, it's pretty clear that you only need one. I'm always surprised when you put two things together and suddenly realize, that's a lot bigger than I thought. So I split it in two and starting working on the top edge to conform it to the shock tower.

If you'll notice I left a few things in place for this stage. I realize the S-chassis won't collapse with a significant amount of material removed up there but I tried to leave the towers alone until I got a chance to weld the new fenders in. I also left my brace in and torqued down. Here is how that went.

Old vs New

Conformed to the towers

At this point there isn't much I can do without a welder. I have a small 220VAC MIG unit that could easily cover this but I haven't taken the time, or spent the money, to run 220 out to the garage so I had to load it up and run over to work.

So I prepped the towers and got to tacking.

Then the sides

Now for the flats, I wasn't interested in multiple pieces so I took a minute and came up with a pretty intense flat pattern and formed up some .065" sheet.

After some careful measuring, here's the piece broke and in place. I was pretty beat after that and called it a night, I think it was 3:30 by this point. It's amazing how long shit takes some times... More to come!

JDM_Tuner · 10-13-2011, 09:24 AM

Nice build man keep it up!

Also If you wanna sell those Rota grids lmk

blueshark123 · 10-13-2011, 09:33 AM

what seats are the ones in ur car corbeau a4?

onehundredoctane · 10-13-2011, 10:37 AM

Keep it up man! She looks good!

s14unimog · 10-13-2011, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDM_Tuner

Nice build man keep it up!
Also If you wanna sell those Rota grids lmk

Thanks, but these are my track wheels, so I won't be looking to sell them any time soon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueshark123

what seats are the ones in ur car corbeau a4?

I have different ones. Driver is a Sparco Corsa and the passenger is a Sparco Toreno

Quote:

Originally Posted by onehundredoctane

Keep it up man! She looks good!

Thanks!

s14unimog · 10-14-2011, 08:27 AM

Keepin on keepin on

I got the all the parts built now and so moving on to the modifications the tower needed to really take advantage of the tubs. Here is how I cut that.

I made sure to leave a small tab so I could overlap the side panels; this will surely help restructure that area. and in case you haven't noticed the jack, I actually did all of the welding and cutting while the car was lifted by the cross member. We all know metal moves when you get it hot and I figured that had to be the best position to support it while doing all this; along with keeping the strut bar in place.

Then with the parts back in for final fitment...

And the same for the other side.

Fast forward to the car back at the house and all welding done with 1" spacing. I'm very pleased with how they came out. There is miles of room now, lol.

That's all I got done for now. It took a lot longer than I had expected, but either the case, the car is back in the garage and I've got tons planed! It's really coming back together now!!!

Oh and I spoke with David @ Carroll's Engine Rebuilders and we're going with a 0.020" over bore. So I got those ordered. CP 9:1 87mm ordered through Enjuku, thanks guys! Looks like weapon's grade plutonium or something, haha. More to come!!!

hummer96 · 10-14-2011, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

Thanks!

What do you have that's single lug?

s14unimog · 10-14-2011, 09:32 AM

their for a GT3 cup car I've got.

Na, they're actually two back there and their from BBS mfg. plant over in Braselton. A friend of mine's dad worked there and they're slightly damaged.

s14unimog · 10-18-2011, 09:42 PM

Still working on it...

With the motor off at the machine shop and the tubs done I moved on to my next project. One thing I really don't enjoy about the 20G is the lag. Love the power. Hate the lag.

Considering all exhaust plumbing is run well, the turbo is already ceramic coated and it would save me a grand or so, I'm going to give the 20G another shot but hopefully provide a better setup; with an aim towards response. Naturally what should one do. Shorten the pipes. So being the cheap ass I am I opted to cut up the VSPL core I've got, flip it upside down, and straight shot the pipes through the core support. Here is how that's going...

With the uprights in rough shape I opted to get some new ones through Nissan. Fabricated some end caps for the frame ends, now cut back to the core.

I'm going to try and shot straight through there...

The new uprights came in

first thing to go is the lower mounts. I TIG'ed this on about 2 years ago. They look terrible but held up great.

So shift forward a couple nights and I've got a plan in hand and some more time to get this going. No going back now...

Next I'll be welding the end connections over the holes and blend the entrance/exit so I don't create a large pressure drop across the cooler. More on that in a little bit.

s14unimog · 10-25-2011, 09:02 AM

10/25 update

Considering the time all of this is taking and the rust is starting to collect on a couple panels, I decided to bounce back over to painting the tubs. So I got a couple of things from the paint shop and got to it.

Everything sanded down, prepped and ready for primer.

Starting to look a little better now.

10-08-2011, 10:59 PM	#2
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Here is the damage. After a leak down test confirming the number one was at fault, I got to put eyes on the issue. What the catch can was showing.... Luckily the block wasn't damaged... I was expecting some unrepairable carnage to those cylinder walls, but I couldn't find a single mark. So off to the machine shop it goes. The goal this time for the car is to improve some of the off-boost response and clean things up a bit. So here are the improvements. It's a decent list but a convenient time to get at it. Engine: CP 9:1 87mm pistons Eagle rods ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL race bearings Cosworth 1.2mm MLS Balanced rotating assembly Polished crank Chassis related: shorter charge piping tubed front fenders solid subframe mounting minimalism harness general clean up of engine bay repair PS leak issues repair transmission issues make something even cooler. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-08-2011, 11:31 PM	#3
420sx Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Texas Age: 38 Posts: 3,960 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: 420sx Feedback Score: 0 reviews	looks fun man. sounds like my story all goes back to 04. except mine went ka/sr/ls1. keep it posted on the work with plenty of pics. __________________ hydropgrahics! ls1......

10-09-2011, 10:22 AM	#5
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	With the motor out of the car, and the problems identified, the block is off to the shop for inspection/machining. At this point I wasn't sure if we needed to over-bore the block b/c as I said there wasn't any damage so I held off from buying pistons until I got some word back from the shop. After a complete tear down there and some checking, we decided it would be better off to go with a set of 87's and rebore/hone. More on that a little later. With the engine out, I was left with this. Usually the sight of my car in this condition starts to raise frustration b/c I've previously done all my swaps and builds in either an apartment complex parking lot or the back driveway behind my dad's house; neither of which makes for an enjoyable experience. With my new to me house and a disconnected 2 car garage, I'm set to take my time and really build what I want. In an attempt to keep some room in the shop, I decided to leave the engine bay alone for a bit and turn my attention to the rear. I figured, it might go quicker and its pretty straight forward. So thanks to SPL the first of new parts show up for my solid sub frame mounting Diff bushings V2 solid mounts with removable spacers. Before all of this, I had spent a little time upgrading bits back here but nothing as serious as this and with the subframe out from under the car it was time to see what the last couple years of drifting had done. So as most people often see, my slip-in collars couldn't prevent the inevitable bushing tear. Both fronts were almost completely severed and the ES poly bushings I had for the diff (including my track day worm clamp fix) weren't looking so good either. All modifications to this point were: slip-in subframe collars / ES diff bushings / CS poly hangers / CS multi-links / some eccentric poly bushings for camber correction (the first mod the car saw after springs, lol) / the billet spacer I made for the driveshaft after switching from an ABS VLSD R200 to a non-abs housing that I put a KAAZ unit in and the 300zx rear brake/ebrake assembly. This is how that tear down went. The most un-fun thing ever. burning them out is NOT the way to do it. That process is messy, takes forever, and stinks. I used my drill and went around drilling holes until the center of the bushing would come out. Then took a reciprocating saw to cut the majority of the bushing and finally ending with a hack saw. I like to use the hack saw towards the end b/c the bushing will pinch the saw once its completely cut. You can't tell what's going on with the power saw and risk cutting up the subframe. Voila! Welded on some heavy case washers to lock out the eccentrics and pressed in all of the bushings. I must have taken that last picture before the diff bushings went in. So then I though, if I've come this far, I might as well do a bit more. So I pulled all the control arms, pressed out all of the old bushings and ball joints. With everything in hand, and ready for new parts I wasn't feeling the dodgy look of all the parts. So I had everything powder coated fine texture black; because why not? Also bought all new ES black bushings, and ball joints for the spindles, lower and forward control arms. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-09-2011, 03:14 PM	#7
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^ A good bit actually, I'm trying to cover everything I listed up above. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-09-2011, 05:06 PM	#8
va240dude Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: 千葉県／Virginia/Under my 240 Age: 39 Posts: 2,832 Trader Rating: (161) Feedback Score: 161 reviews	Love that power coat black work, suspension parts look dope. Great job! __________________ 180SXオタクだ!

10-08-2011, 10:48 PM	#1
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Revise and rebuild I suppose... What's funny is that these days, this isn't really anything special. Guy has an S14 with an SR in it; seen that before. Some how I find myself just a little different from the typical drift car/owner combo though. I figure if you're gonna do it, you need to commit to it and figure out the details. IF not, you really shouldn't (in an opinion that doesn't really matter) be doing this; sorry I don't approve of doing stuff the easier quicker way. Now don't get me wrong, I don't have unlimited resources or funds for my car. I earn a decent salary but mainly flip bikes and cars to support the higher dollar parts. I try to do things the best I can, so typically that yields a functional part that isn't overly pretty. Either the case, here is what I'm doing. This is a brief history on the car. Bought in 2003 basically stock, SE, Mediterranean Blue, 53k miles. Look how proud I was I was pretty stoked to be driving this to highschool; drifting wasn't "cool" yet and V8's meant business. I can still hear the Honda's leaving the parking lot and trying to catch their shifts so it sounded like they weren't automatic; you know what I'm talking about. That shit cracked me up. I pretty much hit Ziliva right after getting the car, I remember seeing an SR for the first time and thinking that was amazing. Those cars had a presences and it was not a common thing. Now I'm not getting into this who was in to 240's sooner bull shit. That stuff was new to me and the community was fairly small. This sorta talk seems to incite that annoying conversation. A couple years went by, I went to college and finally had enough money and experience to attempt turboing the KA. I was orriginally surprised when it got the attention it did, I just couldn't afford an SR and wanted to be boosted. Drifting isn't fun with an N/A KA. That's when I did this thread. So the car went a little further. Made 209whp @ 10psi with a T25 and sidemount from an SR. A couple years after that, I bought a black top, put some old Volks on it and coilovers. Then a deal came up with a buddy of mine that was selling his GT28RS SR car that had some knock. Basically buy the car, swap the engines, my BPU setup for this moderately tuned one, plus a bit on top to repair the damage in the other. Seems simple enough. So I picked a holiday weekend and got to it. I basically needed the black car with my engine so I could get to school on Wednesday. At this point I wasn't driving the blue car anymore, which was a weird feeling. I rented a storage unit down the street and had the short block assembled by a Tiger Racing. After a couple discussions with Sam, the owner of the shop, he had convinced me to ditch the 28RS and go for more power with the 20G. So that's what I did. Basic specs are as follows... -S14 SR block (VVT plugged) / s13 SR head / 264 HKS cams / Eagle rods / ARP head studs / Cosworth 1.5 MLS / TD0620G turbo / 740's / Nistune / All New bearings / guides & chain. Basically the works on stock pistons. The car made 394whp @ 18psi. Also made a couple exterior & suspension improvements along the way. You can read more about that here After this the car was pretty solid. I drove it to and from the drift events pretty consistently. The car was stupid fast and never gave any headache until one night. Unfortunately I had never noticed the pedal range of motion compared to the throttle cable pull length and broke a throttle body hinge, dislodging one of the screws. The number 4 ate it and while doing so threw a rocker. Sounded like that terrible engine failure sound from a big turbo Supra video. Repaired that... By this time, I had things back together with new valve guides in a spare head I had. The car ran pretty solid for another stretch before finally shattering the ring lands on the #1 after some winter weather spikes; 23psi. Here is how it looked around then. I finally got some solid wheels, and touched up a few more things; mainly in the interior. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-09-2011, 03:03 AM	#4
Eyegazm Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Kansas Age: 30 Posts: 69 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	looks good, keep em coming!

10-09-2011, 05:29 PM	#9
Trap Star Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: ATL/Sylva, NC Age: 33 Posts: 409 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Whos doing your machine work? I haven't decided on a machine shop yet, I kind of want to go to someplace that is at least a little bit familiar with SR's. __________________ 86 300zx/90 240sx/97 240sx/96 LS400/03 350z -Shake N' Break Racing-

10-09-2011, 05:30 PM	#10
chituntang Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: ATL Age: 35 Posts: 505 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Met you a few times on a dyno day, buying stuff from you, etc... Know exactly what you are talking about and most of the stuff you went through. Too bad I am leaving the country by the end of this year and heading home for quite some time before even considering coming back so no more S-chassis money pit for me... Keep it up! P.S. "No Zenki love?!" quoted from you...

10-09-2011, 06:22 PM	#13
igreek Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Georgia Age: 28 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Nice build man! Think I met you one time at Lanier Speedway. We were talking about me going KA-T.

10-10-2011, 01:35 PM	#14
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	UPDATE So I took a minute and got the parts together. I think everything looks WAY better as one color. I've gotta tell ya, pressing in those ES bushings can be a real PIA. The ones for the spindle are one piece bushings and getting that first edge to collapse, without the bushing shooting out of the arbor press, can be tricky. Also I got a chance to confirm that rear ball joints on the S14 are in fact identical front and rear. It's amazing how difficult it is to confirm this; as if everyone on the internet is afraid to confirm this. Enough talk, on with the pics! Now before anyone says anything about the ball joints, let me explain my reasoning here. I've read through the "roll center" thread, read through threads on NRR and participated some in the discussions. I realize that offsetting the joint location, as these do here, is not the fix for roll center adjustments. What I do know is that I'm not nearly as low as a lot of you try to go for. I still want a decent suspension stroke and have no interests in being as low as possible. The offset location in these will reduce the static angle on the ball joint, which will help their life, it also lowers the arm enough to avoid gaining positive camber on compression. I may change this in the future but for now, I'm going to give them a shot. For reference, I run Tein Flex's with 8kg/s front and 7kg/s rear springs. Considering most drift cars this is much softer and provides me a lot of suspension movement; I just have to sit up higher to prevent bottoming out the shock/wheel. Here is everything fitted to the car.... I raised the rear as much as I could. Tubs are up next!!! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-10-2011, 01:44 PM	#15
Edwin562 Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Whittier (562) Age: 31 Posts: 4,721 Trader Rating: (35) Feedback Score: 35 reviews	nice progress....

10-10-2011, 08:39 PM	#16
Okinawandrifter87 Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 3,959 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Loving the progress! Subscribed. __________________ Driftphreak87

10-10-2011, 08:52 PM	#17
420sx Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Texas Age: 38 Posts: 3,960 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: 420sx Feedback Score: 0 reviews	attention to detail is where its at __________________ hydropgrahics! ls1......

10-11-2011, 02:18 PM	#18
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Tub Time! Since I don't sit slammed I really didn't have many rub issues. Occasionally at some drift events, with banked turns, I would get that over the hood smoke from the front at full compression but it was nothing more than a highly polished spot on the inner fender. What really drove me to do this was the previous owners attempt to route piping. Now I bought my car stock but came to find out that the previous owner had attempted a T3 KA-T setup but popped the motor shortly after the install. They replaced the KA, took it as much as possible back to stock and he traded it in to a Subaru dealership for a WRX. With the motor out of the bay, you can really see why I wanted to address this... (the second picture was after a small amount of cutting. I basically connected the holes to the factory hole where the harness was routed) Here is how it went from there... Here is everything I pulled, Took a minute and dropped a lot of the factory brackets as well. I grabbed one of those spot well drills from Harbor freight and it worked like a champ. I will admit though, those things will get away from you. If you've ever used one, then you know what I'm talking about. And with the tires back on and weight on the car at full lock... __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-11-2011, 07:15 PM	#19
240Shwag Zilvia Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Lakewood, NJ Posts: 258 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Those spot weld drill bits are pretty handy. I used a center punch to make a good place for the centering post to ride in. Your progress is awesome.

10-13-2011, 08:19 AM	#20
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^ ya I did the same but some times it still gets out and walks across the sheet metal, leaving you with some interesting swirl marks; lol. Thanks! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-13-2011, 08:46 AM	#21
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Tubs Con't So as most do, I took the trailer fender route. I really like the radius you get from the stamping over rolling a sheet myself. Not only does it look better, it's surely a stronger piece. I picked up one from the Tractor Supply Store for $45 With my handy spot weld drill, I knocked the back panel out. Once I took a minute to think about the next step, it's pretty clear that you only need one. I'm always surprised when you put two things together and suddenly realize, that's a lot bigger than I thought. So I split it in two and starting working on the top edge to conform it to the shock tower. If you'll notice I left a few things in place for this stage. I realize the S-chassis won't collapse with a significant amount of material removed up there but I tried to leave the towers alone until I got a chance to weld the new fenders in. I also left my brace in and torqued down. Here is how that went. Old vs New Conformed to the towers At this point there isn't much I can do without a welder. I have a small 220VAC MIG unit that could easily cover this but I haven't taken the time, or spent the money, to run 220 out to the garage so I had to load it up and run over to work. So I prepped the towers and got to tacking. Then the sides Now for the flats, I wasn't interested in multiple pieces so I took a minute and came up with a pretty intense flat pattern and formed up some .065" sheet. After some careful measuring, here's the piece broke and in place. I was pretty beat after that and called it a night, I think it was 3:30 by this point. It's amazing how long shit takes some times... More to come! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-13-2011, 09:24 AM	#22
JDM_Tuner Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kansas City, KS Posts: 1,024 Trader Rating: (35) Rides Gallery: JDM_Tuner Feedback Score: 35 reviews	Nice build man keep it up! Also If you wanna sell those Rota grids lmk

10-13-2011, 09:33 AM	#23
blueshark123 Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: North Jersey Posts: 5,481 Trader Rating: (55) Feedback Score: 55 reviews	what seats are the ones in ur car corbeau a4?

10-13-2011, 10:37 AM	#24
onehundredoctane Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Greensborough, NC Posts: 2,783 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Keep it up man! She looks good!

10-14-2011, 08:27 AM	#26
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Keepin on keepin on I got the all the parts built now and so moving on to the modifications the tower needed to really take advantage of the tubs. Here is how I cut that. I made sure to leave a small tab so I could overlap the side panels; this will surely help restructure that area. and in case you haven't noticed the jack, I actually did all of the welding and cutting while the car was lifted by the cross member. We all know metal moves when you get it hot and I figured that had to be the best position to support it while doing all this; along with keeping the strut bar in place. Then with the parts back in for final fitment... And the same for the other side. Fast forward to the car back at the house and all welding done with 1" spacing. I'm very pleased with how they came out. There is miles of room now, lol. That's all I got done for now. It took a lot longer than I had expected, but either the case, the car is back in the garage and I've got tons planed! It's really coming back together now!!! Oh and I spoke with David @ Carroll's Engine Rebuilders and we're going with a 0.020" over bore. So I got those ordered. CP 9:1 87mm ordered through Enjuku, thanks guys! Looks like weapon's grade plutonium or something, haha. More to come!!! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-14-2011, 09:32 AM	#28
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	their for a GT3 cup car I've got. Na, they're actually two back there and their from BBS mfg. plant over in Braselton. A friend of mine's dad worked there and they're slightly damaged. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-18-2011, 09:42 PM	#29
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Still working on it... With the motor off at the machine shop and the tubs done I moved on to my next project. One thing I really don't enjoy about the 20G is the lag. Love the power. Hate the lag. Considering all exhaust plumbing is run well, the turbo is already ceramic coated and it would save me a grand or so, I'm going to give the 20G another shot but hopefully provide a better setup; with an aim towards response. Naturally what should one do. Shorten the pipes. So being the cheap ass I am I opted to cut up the VSPL core I've got, flip it upside down, and straight shot the pipes through the core support. Here is how that's going... With the uprights in rough shape I opted to get some new ones through Nissan. Fabricated some end caps for the frame ends, now cut back to the core. I'm going to try and shot straight through there... The new uprights came in first thing to go is the lower mounts. I TIG'ed this on about 2 years ago. They look terrible but held up great. So shift forward a couple nights and I've got a plan in hand and some more time to get this going. No going back now... Next I'll be welding the end connections over the holes and blend the entrance/exit so I don't create a large pressure drop across the cooler. More on that in a little bit. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-25-2011, 09:02 AM	#30
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	10/25 update Considering the time all of this is taking and the rust is starting to collect on a couple panels, I decided to bounce back over to painting the tubs. So I got a couple of things from the paint shop and got to it. Everything sanded down, prepped and ready for primer. Starting to look a little better now. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

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