WISH ONE

how much were your lines?
I love how they label everything, I talked to the guys from chase a while ago at a Spocom when i was still doing sales, and all of their stuff was sooo sick.

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WangonwWarrior

It is very very simple. I thought I was going to have trouble running them but they basically run in the stock locations except they tuck behind the motor instead of up top where the stock ugly hardlines are

Why not? The s-chassis brake lines are rubber lines in the wheel well and hold up fine, even at 20 years old. I plan on road racing on these brake lines once they come out for the FD.

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IIIXziuR

I was merely thinking of creating new brake lines and running the behind the motor but those Chase or w/e look pretty spiffy.

I'm curious to know how they perform...

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... ... ... ... .

Chase Bays

Everything looks great folks. We're releasing our line of 240sx stuff now!

Engine harnesses - Ours are built with brand new wire and pins. Loomed in nylon sleeving and ADHESIVE lined heat shrink. We also offer a Mil Spec quick disconnect for the firewall. For most Nissan motors we're integrating the lower harness and trans harness with the engine harness for a better look and easier install. (Note: You connect and disconnect the firewall connector as much as you want, there is no set amount for that)

ALSO Brake line relocation kit, AN fuel line kit with inline fuel filter, One piece clutch line, Brake booster delete with Wilwood master cylinder kit, and more.

Also for those saying stainless braided line doesn't perform the same...I guarantee you it will feel exactly the same if not better than your OEM setup. It is a common thing to hear or think they do not perform as well. We've been using this stuff for years! 9 second drag cars, Redline Time Attack cars, and hundreds upon hundreds of street cars have used our stuff with zero issues, ever. Once we sale more kits to our Nissan customers I'm sure we can get some positive feedback in to reassure everyone.

Thanks!

RurouniMidnight

Wow sounds good, Intrested in checkin that all out.

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MavericStephenc

I can't wait to see everything come out! Whats up with your site though? When will it be back up?

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S14_Kouki

Got a question. Where do you guys get your wire loom and mil spec connectors from??

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CamryOnBronze

Wow, I'll totally be in line for that stuff... also curious to know when the site will be back and when the S13 stuff will be available!

I'm working on my fuse box relocation now... where do you guys route the lower engine harness when the fuse box is in the fender area?



(Still need to fab a bracket and splash shield)

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VOoDOoGTX

im wanted to know more about the brake booster tuck, Whats the recommended way to do this? i saw a picture of it but not alot of information.

ill be ordering a crazy amount of stuff once chase bays web site is up.

WangonwWarrior

It deletes the brake booster and it is just a master cylinder I will try to find some pics!

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WangonwWarrior

Got my motor and radiator in today



Wait where is the radiator?

Oh, there it is













Tucked radiator wut wut

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VOoDOoGTX

woerrddddddddd

White Comet

holy crap, i didnt know that existed

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GSXRJJordan

Haha, you posted pics in the wire tuck thread with the wiring disconnected/not there. Super tucked bro.

You didn't know custom radiators existed? Truth be told most people don't put 'em there because it's smaller than it would be if it were behind the support, but it makes sense for RB25/26 swaps since it'll let him run puller fans.

Summit actually has some "universal" Griffin/etc (read: baller) cores that are S-chassis friendly sizes for around $200... not a bad deal at all, but sometimes the inlet/outlet sizes don't match so you'd have to be creative with hoses.

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White Comet

sorry for being unclear. i didnt know ones form chase bay existed

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WangonwWarrior

sorry for posting in wrong section.

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Om1kron

Please don't bring any gay drama into this thread. It's the wire tuck thread, the engine bay thread is in another place. You don't have a tucked harness on the motor and this thread isn't about what NWP4LIFE is doing with their honda's for eibach.

Tucked radiators are nothing new, I understand you and chase are in kahoots and this is great marketing for you two. But this is not the place to discuss his products if you want another HATER to make a stink to the mods about it.

kthx.

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Wayne

Broadfield

Maybe he has the new baller Chase Bays invisible wiring

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onepuff

It's Bluetooth

Fries

EPICCCCC.

Why the Chasebays hate?

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iwishiwas-all*

chase, i need you to set me up with that bluetooth engine harness haha. the next step in tucked harnesses.
I am gonna be having chase do some stuff for my car so be on the lookout soon!

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WangonwWarrior

Im getting an ipod charger built into my harness


sorry for cluttering the thread

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bllabong89

Where do you get a bulk connector like this from?

conrad_s13.5

computer parts site somewhere would be a good google'r

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GSXRJJordan

There are quite a few manufacturers for "bulkhead connectors" (Mil-C-5015 equivalent for the most part), but as with all mil-spec parts, you have to have a deep understanding of the part numbers to make sure the parts you order work together, and work for your application.

I use different specs for each engine, because KA's need less pins than CA's or SR's, which need less pins than RBs, which need less pins than LSx's. I prefer to use one connector (which is made of many pieces) for the upper and lower engine harness, then another smaller one for the front chassis wiring, and finally a Marinco connector for 4ga main power.

If you guys want to tackle your own bulkhead connectors and tucked harnesses, I can certainly use my accounts to get you good deals on the materials... just shoot me a PM with a detailed description of your goal and I can list out a 'kit' of what I'd use and give you some pricing.

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Big_E-Dog

what bout vacuum lines how many is too many??

got the wireing done just gots a ton of vacuum lines. if i extended them too much couldnt it hurt vacuum stuff??

GSXRJJordan

Hopefully anyone tackling a wire tuck and engine bay cleanup will understand which parts of the engine actually need vacuum/boost lines. With the exception of boost controllers/wastegates, most everything (EGR, FPR, etc) can handle a reasonable extension without any adverse effects. Cap off what you don't need, and use new vacuum line so you know there's no leaks.

Getting vacuum to the brake booster while retaining the one way check valve and not looking like ass is generally the toughest part.

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Big_E-Dog

ok thanks almost done with mine, tucking a VG30 with villager manifold

Couped_up'd

WangonwWarrior

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