mattrobertsxn

About to rebuild my ka24de for the first time (first time rebuilding a motor). I plan on getting new arp headstuds, felpro gasket kit, i have cp pistons in the car from a previous rebuild the last owner did, and carillo rods. Rebuilding because valve guide / stem seal(s) are failing, i burn through a shit ton of oil. So i got headstuds, felpro gasket kit, water pump, and am thinking about new oil pump. Do i replace the oil pump just to get it done since its 26 years old or leave it? I plan on a turbo, so will hopefully have the pistons on the lower compression side. My clutch is destroyed, and have been driving my car around pretty much with a clutch that doesnt grab half the time, and ive noticed a large power loss, so im buying a white bunny clutch kit and flywheel.
Do i need a new trans since ive been abusing it with a bad clutch or will i be fine running the current trans? I just dont want to destroy the new clutch setup because of a messed up trans.

Currently i did a compression test and numbers were all around 95/100.

Should i buy valve springs, valves, have the crank polished/machined, or do i leave it as is? When i pull it all apart and the crank and pistons are in good shape, can i put them back in the same state i pulled them out, or do i have the machine shop do something with them?

As you can tell i have lots of questions, if you have any tips to help me make sure i dont f*ck up like the last guy, please do comment.
So overall im asking:
What do i absolutely need to get machined or honed
What should i replace and get brand new while the motors out and apart, i want to make sure i dont need another rebuild for years since i wont be drifting it or anything like that and its just my daily.
I also have dual exhaust cams, when im measuring it all out making sure the lobes arent too close or too far from the buckets, do i just use the same exhaust cam measurements for both?

THANK YOU FOR HELP


Dont insult me if i sound uneducated, im learning, go onto another forum if you want to be an d*ck
Constructive criticism is ok though lmao

TheRealSy90

1. Might as well do the oil pump if you tear it down that far.

2. Unless you have some crazy custom high compression pistons in it right now, there is no reason to get pistons that are lower compression than the factory pistons. You could even go up some as long as it is tuned appropriately and depending what fuel you're going to run. Since you already have aftermarket pistons I would keep those as long as they're serviceable.

3. A slipping clutch in of itself should not damage a transmission. Make sure you buy a clutch that is rated for more power/torque than you'll probably be making.

4. Springs and valves, that's really up to you. With a little research you'll find tons of KA's making 3-400+ on factory valvetrain with no apparent issues.

5. If no rod or main bearings were spun and no damage to the crankshaft, then there's no need to have the crank machined at all. You risk removing that hardened outer material of the crank journal and getting into the slightly softer stuff beneath. Best thing is have a trustworthy machine shop with a good background clean and inspect the crankshaft then go from there.

6. Again you should be able to reuse the crank, pistons, and rods if they are in good shape. Just need to re-ring the pistons with a new set of rings (Make sure to properly gap the rings for your piston/cylinder bore per the piston manufacturer's recommendation!) and a new set of bearings (also need to be measured properly, there should be markings on both the block and crank indicating the bearing tolerances for your specific engine, otherwise there's other methods for measuring bearing clearance). Also the piston wrist pin could potentially be replaced if it's worn.

7. As far as I know the best way to do the dual S13 exhaust cams is going to be with aftermarket adjustable cam gears. Doing it with the factory gear and compensating with the gear teeth is too inaccurate in my opinion and can leave you with some bent valves.

Additionally, look up WPC treatment. If you're going to invest the money in a full engine build, this treatment is very appealing for enhanced wear reduction and friction.

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mattrobertsxn

Is it suggested i have the piston bearings done by the shop, and if the rebuild only apparantley has around 40k miles on it, are new bearings neccesary? And for 7. You say adjustable cam gears ill research that but is that pricey or? And for #5 i plan on ordering rod and main bearings made
By clevite. Thanks for the input btw


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