BigVinnie

I have a 1995 s14 with KA24de. It seems that when I WOT the engine even when the auto tranny is in park the rpms creep slowly and some times hesitate (as if something in the auto matic is bound or isn't moving). Also when I am in the drive position it seems that the auto will start in 2nd instead of first. Fluid was just changed and automatic was flushed.

I know nothing about automatic trannys. I want to keep this car an auto so that my lady doesn't drive my s13 and grind the synchros.

So should I have the tranny replaced or should I just have a tranny shop rebuild the one I have. Is there any type of modifying that I can do to the automatic to make it a little more peppy?

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projectRDM

Replacing is far cheaper and easier if you can find a good one, rebuilding gets seriously expensive although you're guaranteed a perfect zero mile unit. It's really up to you as far as what money will allow you. I sold my original 56k mile unit for $150 which was a deal and a half, you can find kids pulling them for even less.

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FORMERLY R240NA

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Flicktitty

best bet is just find a used LOW Mile one.

I know there pretty cheap around here.

And i've always heard that if the trans hasent been flushed DON'T do it. but that's just what i heard.

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

BigVinnie

I guess I'll just get a used auto tranny. Pick and pull is getting rid of them for $150.
Is there any difference in the torque converters, from the KAe s13 versions, to the ka24de s13 and s14 versions?
Is there anything I need to look out for? I know that the s14 engines come with a crank angle sensor. Will that effect the install if I decide to get an s13 ka24e auto tranny?

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projectRDM

You can swap the bellhousing just like a manual, but even easier since you're not opening the case, there's no fluid loss. Any S13-S14 auto will work.

One thing I would do with the new one, just as a precaution, run an external cooler. I've been told that for years and seen it firsthand a dozen times, once an automatic transmission starts to go, whatever the reason, debris is blown through the unit and the filter doesn't always catch it all. Sometimes the filter even gets damaged. All that trash is pumped through the transmission and through the OE cooler in the radiator. As soon as you start the car with the new transmission you pump that same trash right back of the cooler and into it. As far as flushing goes, there's no harm there, I've done it a million times, the pumps some shops use are too high a pressure but a Nissan dealer will have the right equipment. You can also just do a drain/refill once a week for four weeks and get 99% of it out that way.

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FORMERLY R240NA

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HYPNOTIK

Unplug the little plug on your driver side fender in the engine compartment.

projectRDM

And replace the transmission again 6 months later. That is by far the worst advice ever. Unplugging the dropping resistor drops line pressure in the transmission, resulting in the harder shifts you suggest, which also greatly increases wear on the bands and gears. He wants it to last a while.

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FORMERLY R240NA

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jspeedm

just get an tuned ecu from jim wolf technologies. they do them for automatics also.

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BigVinnie

Fuck JWT. I do my own ecu tuning.
Also not to brag, but I can tune more HP and torque, with an SAFC 2 and stock ecu than what JWT sells for $600. Seriously JWT a rip off.

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BigVinnie

That's not modification that is destruction of the automatic. I refuse to believe that I actually read that in numerous forums, besides zilvia.

The best way to get your tranny to shift faster and harder is with the type of tranny fluid that can be used and / or via torque converter.

You can manipulate line pressure on the weight/heat tolerance of the auto fluid that can be used. Dropping line pressure ATYPICALLY via resistor will only cause the tranny to heat up faster and cause more destruction.

I'm looking for simple modifications, that are possibly a bolt on affair for the automatic. This has to be something that my lady can safely drive my son in, so it has to be reliable. For myself, I want some sort of reliable power, gas mileage to come out of it for my own satisfaction. So this is to be something that is practical, not yo jdm super hyphie I need to be a JDM fanboi and fuck my car up more than it needs to be, to be cheap and drift.

I'll start looking through the reference numbers for all Nissan automatics and match up numbers and specs and see if there is possibly a torque converter that can shave some degradation and put some more power to the wheels.

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