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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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02-01-2013, 05:51 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Sr20 temperature issues
So I've done all that I can think of and my cars temp is still pretty high. Ranges from 195 to 205. In the past few weeks I've swapped both sensors, run a flush on it, new 180 thermo, filled it with distilled water and two things of water wetter only. So now I'm just a little bit confused as to why the issue is persisting. Anyone got any ideas or comments or help?
Also I have a koyo with e fans, lifted hood and I live in a cold-ish place so it couldn't be a weather related phenomena |
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02-01-2013, 06:02 PM | #3 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I'll pm you, but I'm not sure if that's the problem because the one I got opens not too much hotter than that and it's still running 20 to 30 degrees hotter than the thermo opens at
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02-01-2013, 06:42 PM | #7 |
Check if the e fans are working. If not could be a bad ground or fan thermostat not turning them on. Unless their running on a switch. . Never mind then
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02-01-2013, 06:44 PM | #8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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That's what I originally thought but I jacked the front end up and sat there burping it for like an hour or so. Can't run the clutch fan so that's not really an option
The fans are running off a switch on a completely dedicated circuit with a light indicating when the circuit is complete aka fans are running. |
02-01-2013, 07:00 PM | #10 |
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Bleed the crap out of the cooling system. Most people don't do it right and it can cause all kinds of issues. I would definitely pick up a nismo thermostat too.
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02-01-2013, 07:03 PM | #11 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Got a wideband but it's about 14 at idle and 12-13 under load. It's basically running the same as always just hotter. They're not shrouded like you would envision. There's two of them and they basically take up the whole radiator. I'll try sealing up the cracks and let you know what happens
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02-01-2013, 08:40 PM | #12 |
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Are the fans running as pusher or pullers and are they in the correct orientation for said flow? Bleeding the system does not take an hour, if you have bubbles after an hour then you have another issue.
Where are you getting your temps from? I've been doing some testing lately and currently still am. What I've found is that a oem clutch an shrouded system does not cool better than an electric fan setup. It is a convenience thing I guess. Cooling better! That's a myth. Aftermarket hose sensor gauge location: upper sr20, lower sr20, and stock location through ecu temp sensor via consult. The upper hose gave the closest readings to the ecu temp sensor during normal and spirited driving, I was able to get the upper aftermarket gauge to 210-215f, but the ect max temp was 194f. the lower hoses gauge read like 140f max. Clutch Fan setup. The reading from the efan setup is almost identical, and I'm not sure if I did the exact same thing but the temps were, 200f upper gauge, lower hose gauge never registered temps until I was idle, ECT 187f max. My thermostat for the efan come on at 85c which is 185f. My cooling system: oem t-stat(8+yrs old) CX racing dual core radiator, single s blade (IIRC 14") 1 gallon 50/50 plus 1qt water. Test equipment, borrowed s13 oem clutch fan shroud, defi temp gauge and hose adapter. Since the defi advance gauge reads at a lower temp 20c, gonna swap it to the lower hose and see if i get the same results, with temps.
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02-01-2013, 09:50 PM | #14 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Couple things,
Is the temp just slowly rising and rising or is it just constantly running hot. Does it only run hot when your beating on it or all the time cruising or not. Good quality electric fans are a must, I prefer Flexalite duals for the rwd cars. Every swap ive done with them has never had an issue even with oem thermostats. Only time ive seen heat problems is with crappy fans. Your better off with an oem fan clutch and shroud than crappy fans. The flexalites pull 2500 cfm from dual 12's, they are built in one unit with a shroud and seal that fits perfectly on an oem or koyo radiator making a nice tight seal. You want to wire them up as pullers so it moves air into the engine bay not trying to force air out. If the overheating persists then you might have hg problems. But usually when that happens it will just keep getting hotter and hotter until it boils over, blows a hose, and so on. The crap slim fans that come with most of the koyo radiators and so on are crap, they will flow what maybe one flexalite fan will. The flexalites are expensive but they last forever and they are damn good fans. My buddy who drifts his car was using crappy fans and whenever he would beat on the car drifting his car would start to run hot. Fans just couldnt keep up. So instead of spending 350 bucks on the flexalite duals he ended up just going back to an oem fan clutch and shroud for under 100 bucks and never had a problem again. The oem fan moves a lot of air but yeah its not as clean and it will rob some power. |
02-02-2013, 07:07 AM | #16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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^^^ worst idea ever....lol.
Water actually has more cooling properties and heat exchange than coolant does. The more % water you run the better the cooling affect. This is a fact. Water wetter does the same thing. What he was running to begin with is about as best as you can possibly do. All water and 2 bottles of water wetter. Perfect combo. His problem is elsewhere. |
02-02-2013, 08:44 AM | #17 |
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To bleed the coolant system right, you should do the whole process at least 2-3 times. shake the radiator, too. A lot of air gets stuck in that thing. I had the same issue a long time ago, turned out I wasn't bleeding it right.
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02-02-2013, 08:56 PM | #19 |
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waterless coolant, it's nothing you can buy off the shelf and doesn't use glycol or any of that crap, it's like 60 bucks a gallon but it cools better than water. look it up
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02-02-2013, 09:29 PM | #21 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Thats fine, but its not needed. Water and water wetter is the most effective and cheapest way to go. Ive never had issues when using either good electric fans or the oem clutch fan and shroud.
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02-03-2013, 12:16 PM | #22 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Not leaking or burning coolant I continued to bleed it and burp it and it did lower it, but yeah still not 170 which is where my thermo is rated for. It's closer to 195
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02-03-2013, 04:38 PM | #23 |
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You're not understanding how things work!(not an attack) The thermostat only allows coolant to enter the engine that's all. With a lower temp thermo, the engine cooling can start earlier and allow the radiator and fans maintain a lower engine temp.
I know the marketing for thermostats doesn't state anything about the actual work of the thermostat. it's supposed to be understood. That being said, if you had no radiator or fans....., your thermostat should still open at it's designated temp. GET IT? Of course the temp would rise above what the thermostat is rated for and that's to be expected. With fans and radiator working efficiently, the desired engine temps can be maintained, as the water/coolant is what is being cooled, and in return the engine temps stay under control. Now, I'd like to know what your ECT sensor is reading? I tune against the ECT, but use an aftermarket gauge to help me keep engine temps under control, while not connected to my laptop. Foot Ball.........!
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02-03-2013, 05:00 PM | #24 |
Zilvia Member
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Where are you making your readings, op?
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02-03-2013, 07:06 PM | #26 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Autometer temp gauge. 195 is still 25 degrees higher than thermo, it should be a little cooler than 195-205. Standard operating temp is still a little lower than that and bear in mind when I started this endeavor it was at 210-215... I mean I am not worried just a little more like why after everything is it still a little high.
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02-03-2013, 07:20 PM | #30 |
Zilvia Member
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Where is your sensor
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