Gleeso

Hi people,

I see this forum pop up all the time when I look for assistance with modifications. I bought this car as a piece of shit, with a lot of things wrong with it. Where it's at now is a am empty engine bay, and a close to empty interior, but I'll do a massive picture dump to catch you up.

Firstly, here's a modifications list:

Was about time I posted this up on here considering it be used for drifting.

I've had it for a while so a massive dump...picture dump is in order.

I've been signed up to this forum for a while now but havent visited it as often as I should have. I've had this car for a couple years now, so I'll go through it's progression with a lot of pics to bring DriftWA up to speed.

Make: Nissan

Model: 180SX/Sileighty

Year: 1990

Engine Modifications:

- Rebuilding Engine
- Disco Potato (Yet to be installed)
- Full 3" S/S Zaust.
- FMIC
- CX Racing Radiator
- Twin Thermo's
- Tomei 2-Way
- GREX Oil filter Relocator (Yet to be installed)
- 1 Piece Tail-shaft

Exterior Modifications:

- Aero Front Bumper
- Aero Skirts
- Type X Rear Pods and Valance
- Flush Bonnet Latches

Interior Modifications:

- Veilside knob
- S14 Seats
- Install Digital Cluster and HUD

Suspension and Wheels Modifications:

- 17x9.5+15 CST’s up front
- 17x8+? Enkei RS’s on the rear
- 17x9+? Buddyclub P1’s for the rear
- Tein Colies all round
- Cusco Castor Arms
- Cusco Camber Arms
- Cusco Toe Arms
- Cusco Tension Rod
- Ultra Racing 4-Point Boot Brace
- Whiteline Adjustable Front Swaybar
- Whiteline Adjustable Rear Swaybar
- S14 Front LCA’s
- S14 Front 5 Stud Hubs and Knuckles
- S14 Rear Knuckles
- 32 Rear Hubs and Drum Handbrake Setup
- 32GTR Brakes Front and Rear
- S14 Subframe (Yet to be installed)
- SPL Solid Diff Bushes (Yet to be installed)
- SPL Solid Offset Conversion Bushes (Yet to be installed)

Planned Modifications:

- Bride Fixed Back (Preferably)
- Redo dash
- Dark Tint
- Paint job
- Type X lights and garnish.
- HSD Coilovers
- LOTs of Powered By Max Goodies
- A decent set of Cams for rebuild
- 6Boost Manifold
- Thermo Controller
- Haltech ECU
- Welded in half-cage with capabilities of bolt in front bars

What it looked like when I first purchased it:







I purchased these Hyperzero CST's from my bro, as new. They are 17.9.5+15:



Found a CX Racing Radiator up for sale for cheap so had to purchase it. The same goes for the Thermo's:



I ended up purchasing a Cusco Tension Rod because the front end was extremely sloppy. When turning it felt as if the front kept going straight.



Picked up a new Oil Pick-up as I feared I may have damaged mine when I accidently went a little too quick down a bumpy-ass road and the sump took a beating.



Here's the Cusco Tension Rod installed, you can also see the GKTech bashplate which partially saved the engines life:



More pictures to follow in an instant.

Future240

Welcome to the site.

I will approve this on the basis the list you posted is already done. On zilvia we prefer builds to be pretty far in before posting. I will monitor to see if it meets spec.

__________________

Gleeso

Hi, thanks. Was just waiting for approval before I threw the rest of the pics/updates/progress up. I shall continue to do so. Thanks again.

Gleeso

A new Water Pump and all new belts were purchased through Taark:



Replaced my ceased A/C Compressor for a better condition one. Water Pump, belts and compressor installed. Unfortunately the bearing on the A/C Tensioner was rooted.





Some parts which would actually make a much greater difference with the steering were purchased. Front and Rear Whiteline Adjustable Swaybars.



Picked these mint condition Aero Skirts up for a bargain. They were my first milestone in getting a full Aero Kit.



Test fitted:



Saw a low kilometre Disco up for grabs, so I had to take it:





Had some Straight Pipes custom made through a brothers mate:







Finally got around to purchasing a 2 Way diff, this one being a Cusco 4.08 Ratio:



The next milestone of an Aero Kit was purchased. I guess they're not really Aero, but Type X, but you get the idea.



Car was running a little hot, so picked a Nismo Thermostat up.



But, because I'm "heavy handed" at times, I did this:



I heard a crack but neglected it to be a cracked Thermostat Housing and took it as a thread slipping. Had to go to Uni to drop off an assignment, but that's when I learned of it's cracked thermostat housing and realised I couldn't make it to Uni. I had no way of getting home, so I had to drive it. Now I'm unsure if my head is warped. I'll get to that soon. Luckily I have some good mates on SilviaWA, and one of them sorted me out me a new Thermostat Housing.

Getting a 5-Stud Conversion Kit was a high priority of mine, but I kept spending money on other car parts. I called KYP up randomly one day and turns out they had a 5-Stud Conversion Kit from an S14 laying around which has 32 GTR Brakes up front, needless to say, I was not disappointed. A little bit of surface rust.



Testing fitting my CST's on my brothers car as he had a similar brake setup. Clearance was good.







I was having clutch problems so I purchased a braide brake line incase that was the issue. It was not.



Purchased 32 GTR Rear Brakes to match the front. I was oblvious to the fact that I would need to change the rear hubs from S15 ones to 32 ones. I ended up getting some from a mate at C-Red, they came off a 32 GTR.



With the rear brake upgrade, I had to getting some bigger rims. A fellow forum member contacted me and offered me a set of Enkei RS rims.



Obviously with the brake change, I had to change the brake lines to some a braided set. These are S13-32 Conversion lines ordered through Cartel Aus, as was the Clutch Line. Great service.



Front 5-Stud Installed as I hadn't purchased the 32 Rear Hubs yet.





CST's installed:





Picked up some Cusco Rear Toe Arms:



Had to get a set of these for the front hubs as I needed to run spacers on the front for the rims to sit away from the Coilover struts so I could lower it a lot more.



With the adjustable Toe Arms purchased I could install the rear end on the 5-Stud Kit. Toe's a little iffy.







Somehow cracked the inner pad of one of the rear rotors, so I had to get another one. A lot of "important" items were purchased:



Also purchased a Tomei diff and 5 Bolt Shafts from my brother who was parting out his S13. Here's a pic of it fitted:



A better condition BM-44 BMC was purchased as the one that came with my car was quite rooted.

Also, in regards to the clutch problem, I beleive the slave cylinder was leaking, so I purchased a new one from Nissan and it was all dandy after that.



Replaced the Air Filter as it was dirty as feck.



I purchased an S14 Subframe around this time too. It came with all rear arms as well, which will make life a little easier when fitting it.

Purchased a set of Black Wheel Nuts through Cartel Aus so all my nuts would be the same all round.



Made an impulse buy through GKTech and got this:



Fitted. I do realise my engine bay is dirty, we'll get to that later...



I love Back To The Future movies, and that's what inspired this purchase. I also purchased an uncracked dash which had the HUD unit, so I thought it was relevant.



Another item purchase from my brothers S13. From the time it was fitted I was never really able to see how much difference it made.





How it sat for a while:



Finally got around to chucking the spacers on and lowering the front.



Whilst under the car, I saw this little bastard didn't have a pin through it, and it was loose as a... You get the point. It was the answer to the quesion as to why my cars steering was all over the shop.



Could feel my firewall flex under hard braking so I went on GKTech again and purchased this:



As I was going to be using an S14 Subframe I had to change the rear housing of the diff, so I got this:



Here's a test fit/comparison between the stock diff bushes and my Solid SPL Diff Bushes:



Did a compression test before I took the engine out to check how it was all running.

1: 140
2: 134
3: 134
4: 133

Apparently it could be as low as it is because of sticky rings.

Gleeso

Started to rip shit out to get ready for ripping my engine out:



Engine removal progression:





I won the last piece of my Aero Kit on Yahoo Japan. Felt good!! It's currently about 3 weeks away.



Engine on a stand, and very, very dirty:



Worn out clutch, I dislike this.



A comparison between the stock steering column rubber spacer and my SPL Solid Spacer. Even moving it around with the engine out, I can feel a noticeable difference.

[img]http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh207/25jacob25/SteeringBushingComparison.jpg

In order to rip the looms out, I had to take out the dash. I was getting rid of the A/C and heater it was a good oppurtunity to take them out as well.



That's a lot of crap.



Ordered these Solid SPL Subframe Conversion Bushes, I'm yet to recieve them.



I got these Low Mount PS Pump Brackets from Nigel Petrie, I know most of you know him.



Test fitted:





To visualise it sitting in the engine bay, here's a pic from Nigel's thread:



Both fuse boxes removed from the engine bay, also notice how greasy it is.



The inside of the Plenum, definitely needs a clean:



It was obvious the engine bay needed a clean so that's what I did. Here's the Steering Rack before:



The result of it being soaked in degreaser and cleaned off with a high pressuer cleaner:





Recieved these in the mail the other day. Reason for purchase is because I will be ordering a PBM HMIC Kit once I get my Tax back. Not sure if I'll keep the standard latch, or install the hood latches.



How Kit would look with the standard latch still installed:



Here's how the block is currently as I still need to purchase a 12mm Allen Key Socket to take the head off so it can later be checked for any warping.



Something I drew up so I could remember which Cam Collar/Brace goes where:



This is as far as I've gotten with it all. Comments would be appreciated.

Also, choosing my Cam's was the biggest pain in the ass decision of all. I've ended up choosing Tomei Poncams in order to keep the Disco as responsive as possible. These will be ordered soonish.

Got some goodies in the mail.

Pictures speak louder than words.





So my mate and I tried removing the OEM bushes the other night, but failed slightly. We were able to get the rubber inserts out, but were unsuccessful with the metal sleeves.

Here's what we got done:





With some assistance from Ben over at SilWA, and his mate, we were able to get the sleeves out, going partially def in the process, and we also put the offset bushes in.

Visual Pleasure:



I'm yet to get the diff bushes out myself.

After having a good sleep in from being out on the piss last night, I decided to have another go at the diff bushes.

Here's a pic of the metal sleeves. The one on the left is the one which came out the easiest with just the use of a hammer and a chisel. The one of the right however was a fracking *rabbit*. I spent 90 minutes or thereabouts trying to chisel at it, trying anything and everything I could think of. Key word, "think". I finally remembered I had air tools. So, I went at with an air hammer and the *rabbit* came out within 2 minutes.



It may be SCA, but it sure as hell saved the day.



Very happy with the result. The bushes look a little battered, but they'll still perform as they should.





I also picked up these R33 Handbrake cables from a mate. I was attempting to run the 32 GTR cables, but they're too much of a hassle.



Finally got around to dropping the old subframe.



Had to drag the subframe to the side so I could roll it out with ease.



Something sexual about car parts.



Test fitting of the S14 Subframe. I have to rotate the bushes a little more so it will fit up easier. The bushes sit in extremely tight, so I have to bash them out and realign them. Will be worth it in the end.



Disassembled the rest of the subframe this arvo. Good to have the S13 Subframe out of the way.

Just a dummy up of the S14 Subframe with the S14 LCA's. I did this to check whether or not I'd have to get another Whiteline Swaybar. I do not.



Rest of the parts out and ready to go onto the S14 Subframe.





Still need to rotate the bushes a little more, also need to change the rear housing of the diff to the S14 item.

Re-test fitted the swaybar just to be 100%. So happy this is one thing I don't have to f**k around with.



I bashed out most of the bushes again to align them up properly, that went well. Then came the fitting it up. I ran into an issue that I hadn't come across after reading multiple threads of S14 Subframe Conversions. Turns out you either have to bash the body in a little or modify the subframe. I took the quicker/better solution.





I bashed it.



Also added another tool to the collection. Here's the new jack up next to the old jack.



The height differences, pretty noticeable ,eh?

Gleeso

After a busy week with work last week, I couldn't find much time to progress with my car, but I was able to get back into it today.

I was having more issues than expected with the subframe. It kept hitting into the chassis rail here:



....And here:



....And here:



So I had to smack at the body with my gimpy and all was sorted. Now I could finally get the subframe to sit flush with the body.



Now that I could confirm that it would fit up properly, it was time to put a little rust converter on some deceptive surface rust spots, I also coated it with some primer:



I also sanded back the dented in areas and sprayed them with primer just as a precautionary:







Doing this reminded me that in my door sill, there was some rusting going on, so I went at it with rust converter and primer as well. This should keep it under control until I get a full respray.



Lastly, whilst I was waiting for the rust converter to dry on the subframe, I installed the the R33 Handbrake Cables onto the drumbrakes:



Received the following:

- GKTech SR20 Oil Sandwich Plate.



- GKTech S14 Eccentric Lockout Kit (Non HICAS).



- GKTech S13 Solid Shifter Bushing



Once again, very happy with GKTech's quality.

Finishing coats of the black paint applied. All that's left is the clear coat. I'll apply that tomorrow.

Looks alright for a quick job:





Also, I got around to changing the diff rear-housing. Tomei diff looks so beefy. :P



This is always reassuring:



And...rear-housing bolted up just tight enough to seal it properly.



I'm not sure what oil was in it before, but this will be going into it. I tried getting some Royal Purple at Autopro, but ended up getting this. I was told it's just as good, if not better.



I put some oil in the diff...after it was connected to the subframe, and bolted everything else up.

Here's the finished product of the subframe:



I got as far as this because I'm in need of two nuts. Ha, ha.





This is where the two nuts need to go:



Also, I took a trip down to Mandurah to see my good friend. I got these parts for a good price.



I've gone back to stock, because that's what I want, simple.

I also installed this as well:




The S14 Subframe is finally bolted to the car. So fucking happy with it how it looks/sits.



Rear of the car is now lower than the front.



Lastly, I got this after many, many, many years of wanting one, which proceeded with weeks and weeks of waiting after I won it on Yahoo Auctions.



This is one thing which was a must have. None of that butchered shit.



A little bit of damage. It was advertised like this, so not a surprise. Can be easily fixed.



Hopefully better than the last persons attempts, haha.



Finally got an Allen Key Socket Set so I could take the head off.

Mission accomplished (Had crap on the lens).



Also, I accidentally got the engine to TDC without having the marks on the chain to line up. Doesn't really matter though as the engine is getting taken apart.



Ripped off a few more parts whilst I was at it.



Ran out of lunch bags to put my bolts and parts in, so I stopped there. :P

Got around to dropping the front subframe to remove the engine mounts. With the amount of leverage/force I had to apply to loosen the nuts when the subframe was out, there was no way I could loosen them whilst still bolted up. While it was out, I took the opportunity to degrease the underside of it properly. Came out alright.



Fucked engine mount/s. Passenger side is the sheared mount. The engine use to vibrate/bounce a lot when the car was being turned on/off.



Finally managed to removed the rest of the parts from the engine bay to get prepared for respray. Need to weld a lot of holes up before it gets painted, though.



Lastly, I've upgraded my BMC to a BM50. Out with the old, in with the new.



Recently bought these gauges and gauge holder. Only really wanted the holder because it sits in the vent, exactly where I wanted them to be. I'll just look at getting a water temp gauge and put that in this gauge holder, with the boost gauge on an A-Pillar holder.

Really happy with it all.



So, some parts popped up on SilWA that I was eventually going to get, so I got them now. Both new items.

Firstly, ARP Main Studs 202-5402:



Lastly, Nismo Pilot Roller Bearing:



So, I got these SplitFire Coil Packs for a decent price from my bro. In excellent condition. I wasn't planning on getting after market coil packs, but I think I may have had a fucked one, so for the piece of mind, I'm pretty happy with the purchase.

Gleeso

Picked up some parts off a mate today. I was originally going to just get the Tomei Oil Sandwich Plate, but I figured I may as well get the ARP Flywheel Bolts and Brass Spigot Bearing as I'll need them sooner or later.

Tomei Oil Sandwich Plate:



ARP Flywheel Bolts:



Nissan Brass Spigot Bearing:

Motary

Super thorough write-up! Some quality parts there

Gleeso

Thanks mate.

I do love the quality parts. Better off spending more for quality, than buying cheap crap that you can't trust.

Cash flow is pretty good, so updates should be flowing like the Mississippi.

KoukiMonsta

Like the Mississippi I laughed...

Very cool build I like it!

Why use 33 brake cables instead of 32? Why is the 32 a pain?

Keep it up!

Edit : what kinda jack is that, shit is awesome

__________________
@UpshiftEngineering

drscooper

veryy veryy nice write up like stated above! and yeah im liking all the great parts man! send some of that flow over here!!! lol

Gleeso

Hahaha, it just seemed fitting.

The 33 handbrake cables connect straight up from the drum to the handbrake, where as the 32 handbrake cables only go about 2/3's of the distance to reach the handbrake. They then have another extension cable which then reaches the handbrake. This extension piece is also the same end piece the s13/33 handbrake has, which enables it to be able to connect up to the handbrake.

I hope that makes sense. Some visual-aids would make it a lot easier, but the cables are now fitted, and I can't remember where the 32 cables are.

I get asked so often about the jack. It's a Kincrome 3000kg Jack. Got it ordered through my mates work, and got a substantial amount off the price. It gets the car so high in the air, I can finally use my jack stands to their highest potential.

Thanks.

Gleeso

Thanks mate, really appreciate it. I'm liking all the great parts as well, definitely worth that extra bit of cash.

Gleeso

Went and picked up my Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers from the post office, as I missed the delivery, like always. Got them through Tengoku Imports for a nice price.

They're much thicker/heavier than I thought they would be. I'll install these when I put my engine back together.

jdm2191

Dang this looks legit im actuaally a Big Fan of Sil-Eightys! That Aero bumper is damn near mint! But you have Chuki Skirts Not Aero ones (ps13) still clean none the less

You wouldnt happen to still have the Aspirator Tube would you from your climate control? Its on the bottom of this pic you had

__________________
My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

Gleeso

I'm trying to make it as legit as possible. No messing about here. I searched long and hard for that Aero, was totally worth the 4-6 week wait, haha.

Regarding the skirts, I had no idea about the term "Chuki"... TIL.

I did know that there were skirts that sloped downwards near the wheel archers a lot more than the other ones. I thought these were the ones with the larger slope. Can you show me a comparison of the Chuki and Aero Skirts? Would genuinely like to see the difference.

Sorry to disappoint, but I gave all that away for free.. otherwise I would have gladly given it to you.

Gleeso

Sorry for it being a little quiet lately, I've just been getting money to get more parts to continue progress.

In other news, I just made payment for my PBM order. Yeah buddy!!

Twinkies!

Nice work. Great build I'm subscribed

jdm2191

Yeah it's coming along nice, but with the Skirts (not talking about Type-X) there's S13 SILVIA "Aero" Skirts & 180sx "Chuki" (Middle Gen) Skirts & with Chuki skirts they slopped & Silvia skirts didnt slop they had more of a flat bottom. I have Aero skirts check them out on my build & its cool on the Aspirator Tube just thought i'd ask, thanks though

__________________
My Build: The "Coupe De Ville" 1JZ Build!!

Gleeso

I knew about the sloping and straight skirts, but most blokes I know consider them to be Aero Skirts. Good enough for me anyway, especially considering their condition.

Gleeso

Got these off a mate.

EFI Hardware Fuel Rail and Bosch 1000cc Injectors:



Will be able to cut the engine bay up as soon as my PBM order comes.

turbo2nr

good start ! looking forward to updates , it would be awesome if you did polished cs-t all the way around . so glad you got an aero front bumper!

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s14 kouki ka-t

Gleeso

Thanks mate. I will be looking at getting two more CST's at a later stage. Such good looking rims!

I can't get enough of the clean OEM styling. Was so happy the day I got to pick up the bumper.

future

So to get the subframe in all you needed was to beat some things in with a hammer, s14 RLCA, diff cover and conversion bushings? All the other arms work? I'm going the same in my vert

__________________

spray2020

hey mate,

ive fixed my two aero bumpers in Sydney, using some selleys urethane glue from bunnings.
The stuff is good, because the aero bumpers are urethane and the glue is quite flexable, and sticks amazingly to urethane. Scuff it a bit to the bare plastic and she'l be right.

Also, if you have any issues with your digital cluster and or HUD, there is this guy down in South Australia I believe? He is awesome at what he does.

PLMS Developments - Electronic Repair

best of luck with the build

Gleeso

I will probably pay someone to fix the bumper as one of the bits that needs fixing is a little bit of a pain in the ass, but it's good to know that I can attack the problem myself.

Also, thanks a lot heap! That site may be very handy indeed. Was told it works, but that's anyones guess.

Gleeso

Essentially, yes.

Make sure you file down any little metal tags that may have come about in the bushing sleeves. They will fuck your shit up at any chance possible.

Beating things with a hammer was a little discerning, just make sure you sand it down and paint it. Don't really want under-body rust, I'm sure.

If you can get your hands on an S14 R200 Complete Diff, that would be a lot better, as the 2 mounting points towards the tail shaft require bushings, polyurethane/solid, it will just make the fitment a little nicer. I'm still unsure if not having the complete S14 R200 Diff that my diff will sit on the piss or not. Although, it seemed to be alright. Only time will tell.

Gleeso

Decided to look like I was doing something on my car, so I started hacking up the battery tray.

This is what it looked like before:



Here's what it looked like after. I'm going to chop out the rest of it and have Luke weld in some fresh metal. The outline is roughly what I'll be cutting out. I need to get some more Dremel blades so I can cut at the tighter spots.



Also, I test fitted my high-mount fuel rail on one of my many intake manifolds. Looks fucking good. Will definitely add some life to the drivers side of the engine bay.

Gleeso

Recieved my PBM HMIC this morning. So happy with the quality, sadly one of the brackets was bent, still all good.





The rest of the kit and parts should be here soon.

Gleeso

So, after getting my HIMC, I could finally do some real work on the car.

Here's the rad support before all the grinding/cutting went underway.



Considering I haven't really used an angle grinder much, I took my sweet ass time. This is the result:



I've since grinded away at the edges a bit more and deburred it all. Looks a lot cleaner.

Had some issues bolting the cooler up. For some reason the tabs weren't long enough to reach the holes in the rad support. My solution was to extend the rad support holes inwards and the intercooler holes outwards. Seemed to have worked.



Here's the cooler mounted up. The top bolts weren't fitted at this point.



Here's a pic from behind. I had the top bolts sorted in this pic. The cooler felt extremely secure, it'll be even better too, once I bolt up the bonnet latch support and the two other rad supports.



Just a dummy fitting of the radiator with the cooler still mounted, just so I could see how much direct airflow I'd get to it. The answer is, A LOT. Niiiiice!!



Since I mastered the art of the angle grinder, I went at the remaining of the battery tray with it.



Very happy with today's efforts. Next thing to order, disregarding pistons and the rest, will be an RX7 Oil Cooler (Pictured below). This will sit underneath the intercooler nicely. I need to get it so I can see if the lines will go where I want them too, once that's done, the engine bay can be painted.