s14unimog

Thanks! Probably try out something in between; maybe some Potenza's or Advan sports. I'm also going to install my boost controller and bump up the boost

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KoukiMonsta

Man, than sounds fun as hell!

Can't wait for some video!

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s14unimog

A few flybys down the front straight. Bumper cam is coming next...

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codyace

Problem free track days mean you're not pushing it hard enough haha I keed I keed.

It's amazing to also see the difference in what a simple tire can do for ya. On one end I like a street tire as it really makes you focus on being smooth and learning the car...but then there is a point where you know you can go faster, but can't due to the tires. I've been putting off getting real tires now all year, and it's finally become frustrating to me that I waited so long. I'm looking at R888's or NT01 for my car...a full slick would rock, but I'd rather have a set of tires last me 2 years

Awesome to hear it works out well for ya though, track time is the best time!

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s14unimog

Yeah Cody, I was surprised on how she did. There is nothing like running your car at WOT for lap after lap. It gives me a whole new respect for why I do the things I do. It teaches you so much about your setup too.

And you're right about the tire. You don't know why you need good tires until you run your car at a road course. I finally feel qualified to say, "that's a good tire" lol.

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jr_ss

Car sounds great man! I can't wait to get mine finished up...

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s14unimog

Thanks bud!

Slowely getting to the rest of my footage; excuse the piss poor editing skills.

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xpinoyxmk

Looks good man. Hows the hks ebc holding up?

KiLLeR2001

Awesome! This is exactly what I plan on doing with my S13.5 once I get it completed. Keep up the good work.

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s14unimog

Thanks! Haven't gotten it installed yet; work has kept me slammed.

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TheZ31Guy

Was expecting some drifts

s14unimog

I wish... Unfortunately drifting has been banned at Roebling. It has something to do with the SCCA's affiliation with the track. I was specifically told by the owner that I am not to be drifting and if I was caught I would be thrown out. I tried to knock out a couple slides but I didn't want to get thrown out after all the expenses.

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s14unimog

I little driveway fun I thought I'd share.

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KoukiMonsta

I have dreamed for years of having a drift able driveway....holy shit that's awesome!

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Pinggg

That is one hell of a driveway i must say.

s14unimog

You're telling me!!! This situation is something I've searched for years for. Best thing, he loves it. Told me to come out any time. YES!!!

I don't know if ya notice; I did a few runs... lol

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s14unimog

I know it's been a minute, but updates to add...

I haven't really done so much to the car in a while until this recent addition of the GKTech hydraulic dual caliper mount kit - and so, thought I would add some pictures/details. Thankfully the car has actually done quite well. So well in fact, I've participated in numerous roadracing and drift event with it needing nothing more than oil changes, tires, brake bleeding and a steering rack pre-load adjustment. I have to say, the SR20 needs more credit than a lot give it. It's handled 20psi for over 2 years now at around 400whp without a hick-up (knocks on wood)....

Anyways, on with the dual caliper kit install. As most everyone in the S/R-chassis world is aware, GKTech is on the map and a real player for quality parts. I will say that I am not thrilled they are on the other side of the planet, but what they put out stands them apart from the rest. This particular kit was a part of a pre-order/pre-buy back early in the year and due to some legal issues with a vendor, pushed their deliver out longer than I had hoped. Fortunately they have recovered from the incident and are back at it in full capacity. After receiving the kit, I took what was a completed kit and did what I wanted to fit it how I ultimately needed it in my car. Granted, there was enough included to install the setup as they intended, I just simply wanted something specific. So just know that before you think this is how it will go.

The first part of the project for me was the fitting of their caliper mount brackets. Now the beauty of these are the fact you can mount (2) OE Z32 calipers AND retain the factory drum e-brake. Why keep the drum brake? Well, it's nice to retain one on a street/track car - simple. Plus I love the idea of it being, "how Nissan would have wanted it". Unfortunately for the pictures, I didn't take any of the kit straight out of the box, but here is how the mounting goes. I did however take a few of it completed, as well as a few of the interior/lines and handle.

The brackets are laser cut, then machined and sandwiches between the hub and spindle - effectively increasing your offset by 6mm(0.236"). They provided longer 10.9 hardware for the hub and shorter 10.9 hardware for each caliper. The shorter hardware is necessary as the mounting ears are actually thinner than the OE mounts on the spindle and there wouldn't be enough room to accommodate the OE caliper hardware. The design of the bracket has reliefs for the drum assembly, as well as clearances for the pull/release cable for the drums. It's design is quite perfect - there is literately no spare room. It must have been a tedious challenge to get the details ironed out. At this point it becomes quite clear, that the new caliper locations bisect the original caliper placement and so require you to cut off the original mounts from the spindle. I wasn't thrilled that I had to do this. In fact, I was a little apprehensive since I have power coated spindles with poly bushings and there were no instructions, but it was obvious; there was no way around it. So off they came.




...and here they are all fitted - I love it! Rear brakes on the top, e-brake on the bottom. This works out best for routing the lines.





Now the next part is obviously routing the lines and mounting the handle. Since the intention of the kit is to retain the factory e-brake. I didn't want to disturb that handle location and ideally I wanted it more forward and close to my steering wheel. Its obvious GKTech didn't intend for this.

To actually make this happen, I needed the MC and reservoir to be forward of the handle and so allow me to get an inward stroke by pulling away from the MC. The handle and bracket provided include an array of mounting and positional options but none of which allow for what I'm describing. This meant I needed to fabricate something. So I drew up a pair of simple adapter brackets, had them laser cut from some mild 0.125" steel and swapped the pivot action of the handle/holes provided.



This worked brilliantly. I didn't have to modify the handle too much outside removing some of the pivot options in the bottom of the handle to clear the MC's clevis and turn down the spacer length for the handle pivot to accommodate the new brackets. I used the hole array on the side of the handle base and just bolted them to each side with some body panel hardware.

After that, I tried fitting the assembly just in front of the shifter location on the driver's side. This meant I had to cut off the tabs that extend beyond the profile of the handle base on both front and back. Here's where that sits.



Now, there is literately no room to spare. The dash will hardly allow you access to the reservoir but it's just enough. The dash bar mounts are just barely in front of the bracket now, but again; they allow it. So this is where it had to sit. Best thing - works out perfect! Your knuckles don't bash the bar going into 1st, the sweep range of the standard e-brake does not conflict with the hydraulic and its a quick grab right off the steering wheel.

With my dash panel back on and my EDFC module temporarily in a new location, it looks titties!



Now, what about those lines...

Well, this is where I had to seek out additional length; 24" in fact. The lines provided seem like they will be ideal for the handle mounted somewhere around the original e-brake mount and/or center console. Not sure what the idea was...

At either case, the other issue is how that will work underneath the car. They provide (3) lines and as I see it, that puts them connected to each other somewhere around the nose of the differential. That doesn't work for me. See my subframe is raised up to the body and that means, things are tight down there. Not to mention, since I'm retaining the factory e-brake cables (mine are R33) there is almost no room on top of the drive shaft (larger aluminum one piece). Plus - what a nightmare to access, mount or deal with a leak.

Solution...



Since I needed more length anyways, I decided to purchace (2) custom lines from Crown Performance in CA. If you don't know who they are, you should if you ever need any custom brake lines. I've outfitted my drum-to-disk converted lifted jeep with custom assemblies and now the 240 and they have always delivered; and for a great price too. I had them equip one end with a 90* metric inverted flare that had grooving for a standard retainer clip. I mounted those just below the passenger locations in the back seat as so. For the other end, I simply had them install 90* swivels so that I could coerce the lines into contouring the transmission tunnel.




Extending the lines here allows me to put the tee connection in the interior and allows me to run each exterior line safely around the subframe mounts - miles away from the drivetrain. Not to mention, looks kinda cool once the interior is back together.





So what's the end all for this? I love it! A hydraulic ebrake is a must have for precise car control and is such an improvement over snatching a cable and constantly adjusting drum shoes. If you're in the market for a kit, definitely consider GKTech.

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KoukiMonsta

Glad the car is doing well and your still alive!

haha cool update, ill have to browse through the build again...its been too long

s14unimog

Haha, yea still alive - I hope you're doing well too. Life brings you many distractions and I've been a little lacking to the 240. It's strange, when the car doesn't require attention, you don't seem to allocate the time for it; outside the evening or weekend drive and occasional track day. It's strange how you find yourself years later with none of the same friends and the only one still at it...

Continue I will; lol.

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graymaverick

Dope. Cool dually setup, looks great and functional. I commend you keeping the full interior. Thanks for the update, shows your zenki love...

jr_ss

You should at least post a video with the update, damn!

Glad to hear that the car is running great. I can't wait to get mine on the damn road, soon, very soon.

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s14unimog

Zenki for life is what it's looking like. Thanks!

Ha! I suck at the editing... Here are some from a rainy trackday at Roebling Road. I've got some more from my buddies driveway testing the handbrake I need to upload. Follow me on Instagram... s14unimog

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Dcocci

I just read this entire thread. With your car, you've basically done what I had always wanted to do with my 95 miata from high school that I sold years ago. (Bought it in 2002, back when nobody knew anything about imports). I have all the respect in the world for somebody who buys a car at a young age, and keeps it long enough to modify it to their liking over the years. It's an incredibly long road, but well worth it, and it KILLS ME to this day that I never stuck with the miata! Keep up the great work!

KoukiMonsta

Car sounds great, a driving looks solid! But something seems to be wrong with it...something is lacking...

Ahh yes, tire smoke and rev limiter destruction!

s14unimog

I appreciate the words. There aren't many out there who have stuck with a car this long. I've been fortunate that I haven't done some irreparable damage to the chassis/body through all the events and kept it out of thief's hands.

Thanks! I hear ya - the video is a little lacking without all of that going on, but rest assured that I was having an absolute blast. What is funny about that particular event, with all the rain we had that day, the 5 or so C6 Z06's in attendance wouldn't enter the track in fear of looping them off the course. I had the track practically to myself the entire day. Road racers are a funny group once the rain starts. That 968 owner in chase was actually so intrigued by my sliding that he encouraged me to take his car out just to see if it were possible - of course I obliged.

....which reminds me. There have been a couple upgrades I've done here more recently as a result of these road racing track days.

I suppose due to the constant high RPM's on the track, the power steering fluid would get ridiculously overheated; to the point of boiling. Once that started, it would begin to feel as though there were dead spots or gaps in the steering. Although never overflowing too much, there were clear signs I needed to get the temperatures down. Check out the cap seal from my Chase Bay's PS reservoir.



Another issue was that damn throttle body pivot shaft breaking. This is the third one I've destroyed. The last time it had happened, I double checked both the floor board and throttle body stops to make damn sure I wasn't over-pulling; they were fine. the pedal hits the floor just before reaching the stop on the body stop. So what's the deal? Essentially the best I can tell is that it's the pull angle with the cable mount location. The location on the intake plenum simply isn't ideal for anchoring the pull at the throttle body and so I set out the change that with a new mount.

same break as last time...



...and my fancy machined spacer complete with o-ring seals on both sides. No more ratty looking OE paper gaskets.




The new bracket forced me into permanently modifying the throttle cable assembly, but after running the car through another few events, I have yet to break anything. As you can see, the new bracket moved the cable to the most ideal postion. Happy to say, problem identified; problem solved. I'm still welding those screws to the pivot shaft though - It's not worth losing a motor. (see pg.1 for more on that).


So what about the power steering overheating? Well, back earlier in my build, you may have noticed I attempted to mount an oil cooler in the grill location between the headlights, but had to abandon the idea as it produced fitment issues with the hood. So much in fact, I ended up having to walk away from that simple aluminum cooling panel I made to allow the hood to close completely. Since I was determined to mount in this location, I had to come up with another mounting solution, and without a grille, it only made since to try to also disguise the inner headlight mounts, as that's really what makes a grille-less Zenki look incomplete. Here is what I came up with.

First off, I bought a simple positioning table from Enco for my drill press and proceeded to relief the cooling panel to allow the hood to close. That turned out much better than I had thought it might.




next were these simple brackets for the head lights....





all welded up.




built some lines and boom baby - finally got a cooler in the grille area.





Oddly enough, I didn't take any pictures of everything plumbed up (which I'll probably go back and update) but it's done everything I had hoped for curing the PS overheating issue. The last drift event I did, the car did absolutely perfect and I've not had a single issue with cavitation or air pockets in the system. At first I thought I might, since the cooler IN/OUT are on the bottom of the cooler in this position but nope, none to speak of.

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tayloray

This is by far the best build I've seen. I couldn't put into words how well done this is. I wish I had the attention to detail you have.

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KoukiMonsta

ZOMG MAKE ME A THROTTLE CABLE BRACKET

that is absolutely beautiful!! great idea, i must have this haha

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s14unimog

I appreciate that

HA! I actually tried to see if I could gather interest on them a while back and no one bit into it. There is a group that makes a bent stainless piece that essentially does the same thing. I can't remember who the group was though.

...forgot I could link over Instagram video's - check out my page @s14unimog

www.instagram.com/p/qaq-6Pj8Ns

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cchondro

so clean. love your attention to detail! keep it up.

greenwood

great work, your oil cooler is upside down though.