Revise and rebuild I suppose... - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

bc. · 01-05-2012, 12:55 AM

First of all, great writing in this build, I can actually read everything you type without getting bored or confused.

When I saw your recirc setup I laughed and said, 'holy shit!' out loud. That is some cool shit right there man, I don't think I have ever seen anything like it before.

Keep on keepin' on, everything looks great.

s14unimog · 01-05-2012, 07:17 AM

Thank ya thank ya.

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

That's a pretty slick turbo brace, and I really think that will help eliminate (or at least slow down) some of the failures with the tubular manfolds. The *only* think I could maybe suggest (and this is all on assumption) is that if you were to debate on selling them, that you would need to create a brace that could incorperate a few different 'clockings' of the compressor housing (if you know what I mean). This is where some of the rod end/turnbuckle soltuions end up working well as it self adjusts to many different setups. Not nitpicking just dropping the idea out there to ya

Either way, it's a good idea - a much needed one at that.

PS: I don't wanna hear any of the 'southeast temps' comments. It was 8 degreees last night up here

Thanks Cody! I don't intend to sell them for just that reason. There has got to be hundreds of different "bottom mount" turbo positions and equally as many boss locations and actuator mounting orientations to sift through. No thanks; lol. You are right though. Another detail that isn't that obvious in the picture is that the assembly fits there with about 0.01" interference. So as it sits it's actually just barely pushing up on the assembly. My fear was that it would be pulling on it; which might induce a premature failure.

I have to admit I'm a bit of a b*tch when it comes to cold weather but without snow, which I would be all over in the Jeep, I can't do anything with this mid 40's temperature. I would go 100% on my Jeep if I lived in temperatures like that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazysk8er2

Im not sure if you covered this but running flex pipe with your exhaust will lower the chances of cracking the manifold.
The brace is cool btw.

Ya and I've run them before but that can be hit or miss too. I'm also running poly exhaust hangers, poly engine/trans mounts and the exhaust has no conflict issues with the chassis. I have had the car like this for quite a while without issue and its been tracked often. The failure last time was right through the center of the weld and Tomei also agreed that despite the assembly, it should not have failed like that. If this manifold does the same thing then I'll just repair it myself and continue with the addition of a flex section.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sex14

this thread is full of win. btw what wheels are those? are they varsstoen?

Preciate it, I have a set of silver Rota Grids and polished/black J-Line 7SL2's; no Varrstoens

Quote:

Originally Posted by bc.

First of all, great writing in this build, I can actually read everything you type without getting bored or confused.
When I saw your recirc setup I laughed and said, 'holy shit!' out loud. That is some cool shit right there man, I don't think I have ever seen anything like it before.
Keep on keepin' on, everything looks great.

Thanks, I can feel ya on the grammar gripes that plague build threads often; it gets exhausting to try and figure out what they're sayin.

onehundredoctane · 01-05-2012, 07:54 AM

Love it when people diy and still manage to keep things simple and straight forward, not to mention CLEAN!

So the Uwharries huh? I grew up about 20 minutes from them, I hear there are some tough trails with huge rocks over there. . . never was into 4x4's but as I've gotten older I've been thinking more about it.

s14unimog · 01-06-2012, 02:03 PM

Ya man, K.I.S.S. I guess; lol. Ya man uwharrie was a riot and worth the 5+ hour drive. I'll probably go back again this year. There are plenty of places to challenge even the higher end built rigs. Shit, I almost rolled my truck twice.

s14unimog · 01-17-2012, 10:03 AM

HA! Screw you weather. Fortunately a 40k BTU heater and 8 gallons of propane later, I've overcome it! Cool thing about this little paint project is that it's the first of many things for me. It's the first time I've painted something indoors; which rocks! It's the first time, I got to use my new HVLP gun and its also the first time a paint project hasn't taken my efforts and smashed them to pieces. I have to tell you, painting is an incredibly rewarding part of any project. Instantly your months of hard work has been converted to a finished product. It's also one of the most frustrating things I've had to learn. In the past I've painted a hand full of things (valances, bumpers, wings, motorcycle fairings, etc...) all in all probably 15 or so different projects. Within that list, there has been equally as many headaches; if not more. This time however, not so much; thankfully.

Here's what I did.

Considering there was a good deal of new metal I prepared all of those surfaces with a 3M etch primer. As I detailed in some previous posts (I think) I capped the triangular openings at the back of the inner fenders, plug welded a bunch of the unused holes in the fenders, relocated where the engine harness passes through the firewall, capped and shortened the fronts of the frame rails, ground out all of the factory undercoating, removed the center core support/ hood latch strut and the tub work obviously. Here some pictures of that.

After some thought about what color, and how to produce the finish that would be ideal, I decided to go with something I was familiar with. I've had good success with this SEM's Hot Rod Black on a few bikes. It's tough as nails, fuel and oil resistant (to an extent) and produces the sheen that I wanted for the bay. It's also cheaper than a 2 stage with a flattening agent added to the clear. Here are a couple bikes I've done in the past.

I actually tried "dusting" this bike on the final coat to give it a flatter look.

Supplies! All of this ran about $125

Considering the new inner fender work, I opted to seam seal everything from the underside so that I could retain the stitched appearance in the bay. Here are a couple picture from that. It's a 3M paintable beige.

With all of the involved body prep done, I constructed a paint booth from 1.5mil 20x10 plastic rolls and attached it to my rafters. After about a days worth of pre-heating the body, I waited for a mid 60*F day, to boost my heating ability, and shot the paint.

Covered all of my bases, from prep & cleaning to temperatures to gun settings. Which finally brought me to that all important moment; shooting paint. For those who have not painted an engine bay before, it's not an easy target. You're constantly changing your fan pattern to get in all the nooks and crevasse; not to mention fighting the urge to paint what you must lean over to shoot the more interior features. Either the case, it's done. Fast forwarded for your viewing convenience; lol.

I've let the paint cure for a little over a week now and am now just waiting to receive my exhaust components back from ceramic coating. Should be Friday of this week. Once I have that back, I guarantee I'll have the motor back in and plumbed for good in under 6-7 hours. Now the fun begins!!!

jr_ss · 01-18-2012, 10:32 AM

Lookin good man... I dig the "protective" cap, should've just thrown a paint suit in with all your materials. I just finished priming my bay, guide coat sanding is a lot of work. Keepin my eye on this. Good luck

s14unimog · 01-20-2012, 05:17 PM

Ya.... It dawned on me AFTER I got home, so I said fuck it, I'm not washing paint out of my hair anymore.

On a side note; my exhaust parts are back from ceramic. Is this hot or is this hot?

That's one fine looking 20G if you ask me.

Unfortunately, however they forgot to ceramic coat the manifold hardware. I know it isn't necessary but I really regretted not doing it last time after I bolted the rusted OEM hardware over that pretty ceramic. Not this time.

I did however take a second and rivet in my cold air intake duct; that shit's poppin!

sex14 · 01-20-2012, 05:44 PM

awesome build man, thumbs up from a fellow zenki owner.

homeslicej2 · 01-20-2012, 06:02 PM

Loving this still. I enjoy finding updates on your build. I know that's a Greddy turbo elbow, it looks like a Greddy DP too. Who did the ceramic coating? I've been thinking of having Swaintech coat all of my exhaust (to the test pipe) and hot side IC piping. Did you weld in a bung on the DP for a wideband O2 before the coating?

JaredP · 01-20-2012, 06:10 PM

looks sick man, i didnt realise in the tub thread that your bay was black (in the pics it looks like it has almost a bronze in it). all the pics answered any questions i may have had too and i cant wait to see the engine in.

ceramic coat sure is nice to deal with too, makes such a different

s14unimog · 01-20-2012, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeslicej2

Loving this still. I enjoy finding updates on your build. I know that's a Greddy turbo elbow, it looks like a Greddy DP too. Who did the ceramic coating? I've been thinking of having Swaintech coat all of my exhaust (to the test pipe) and hot side IC piping. Did you weld in a bung on the DP for a wideband O2 before the coating?

Thanks man, ya it's a GReddy dump but a Blitz downpipe. I don't use the narrow band O2 sensor so I have my wideband in the dump pipe. Classic Powder & Ceramic in Winterville GA did all of the coating. The guys do killer work and never have any of my stuff for longer than a few days. That's who powder coated all of my suspension arms.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaredP

looks sick man, i didnt realise in the tub thread that your bay was black (in the pics it looks like it has almost a bronze in it). all the pics answered any questions i may have had too and i cant wait to see the engine in.
ceramic coat sure is nice to deal with too, makes such a different

Ya, it was probably the mixture of lighting. It's definitely very black. Thanks.

A54 · 01-20-2012, 11:46 PM

Nice Thread...

s14unimog · 01-23-2012, 08:30 AM

Gettin there...

OBEEWON · 01-23-2012, 09:05 AM

Paint is as smooth as butter on a baby's bottom.

homeslicej2 · 01-23-2012, 04:43 PM

Bay looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the powdercoater, but Swaintech's ceramic exhaust coating is far beyond a simple paint or powdercoat. I'm glad Carroll's engine builders has experience with SR's and other imports with tight tolerances. Around here, all the machine shops are used to old Ford/Chevy/Dodge engines with massive tolerances (compared to imports & modern domestics that is). I wouldn't trust any of them with my little 4-banger.

Junior x · 01-23-2012, 05:17 PM

dammm looks good. glwb
(:

s14unimog · 01-23-2012, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

Paint is as smooth as butter on a baby's bottom.

Thank gawd! I would have gone postal if I had messed that up after everything.

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeslicej2

Bay looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the powdercoater, but Swaintech's ceramic exhaust coating is far beyond a simple paint or powdercoat. I'm glad Carroll's engine builders has experience with SR's and other imports with tight tolerances. Around here, all the machine shops are used to old Ford/Chevy/Dodge engines with massive tolerances (compared to imports & modern domestics that is). I wouldn't trust any of them with my little 4-banger.

I hear ya. The bottom of my carbon/frp hood can attest for this stuff though. Its amazing how well it works. David over at Carroll's is a real perfectionist, not to mention a really cool dude. If you get to use him in the future you won't regret him.

codyace · 01-23-2012, 09:40 PM

Nice choice on the engine bay paint. Flat or Semi Matte is the only way to fly IMO...I hate when the rest of an engine bay is overly shiney.

OnPoint · 01-23-2012, 10:34 PM

this is so bad ass. I remember seeing that ka-t years ago.

s14unimog · 01-24-2012, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

Nice choice on the engine bay paint. Flat or Semi Matte is the only way to fly IMO...I hate when the rest of an engine bay is overly shiney.

Thanks Cody, my thoughts exactly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OnPoint

this is so bad ass. I remember seeing that ka-t years ago.

Nice, it cool that a bunch of people payed attention to that build. That was a different time for sure; lol.

homeslicej2 · 01-31-2012, 12:16 AM

I just noticed that from a previous post that you put your wideband O2 in the greddy turbo elbow location. I know AEM recommends placing theirs ~36inches downstream of the turbo bc the heat can damage the sensor.

ixfxi · 01-31-2012, 01:13 AM

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid

my suggestion? take notes and pay attention

nice work

s14unimog · 01-31-2012, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homeslicej2

I just noticed that from a previous post that you put your wideband O2 in the greddy turbo elbow location. I know AEM recommends placing theirs ~36inches downstream of the turbo bc the heat can damage the sensor.

I run a thermal insulator which pulls the O2 slightly out of the stream. I've heard that it yields an inconsistent reading but I've logged mine in parallel to the dyno operators and seen no difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ixfxi

this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid
my suggestion? take notes and pay attention
nice work

I appreciate that comment.

In regards to progress:

I've spent the last week or so working on the transmission and final assembly details. I'm literately waiting on my exhaust manifold hardware that was missed during ceramic coating. Its a obnoxious detail that I almost wish I skipped over but I suppose it will be worth it when assembled. Fortunately it gave me a minute to finalize all of the brake lines, rebuilding the slave, swapping transmissions, etc... So as of today, if I got the hardware back I could have it completely installed, plumbed and waiting for the wiring details. So I'll have pictures soon. I can't wait to see everything together!

anarchyperf · 01-31-2012, 09:13 AM

Looking good! Look forward to seeing this all together. What engine management are you going to run?

NismoTuner21 · 01-31-2012, 10:17 AM

Fucking rad work man! So jealous of your tig skills and work area lol. Can't wait to see it put together and running.

s14unimog · 01-31-2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anarchyperf

Looking good! Look forward to seeing this all together. What engine management are you going to run?

Thanks! I'm running a Nistune system and data logging boost, EGT and A/F's through my Zeitronix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NismoTuner21

Fucking rad work man! So jealous of your tig skills and work area lol. Can't wait to see it put together and running.

Thanks! You and me both man....

JohnnyDrfiter22 · 01-31-2012, 06:53 PM

Wow Amazing Build!!! Wanna produde more catch cans and sell them?? Also what is used to hold up the piping from the air duct

s14unimog · 02-01-2012, 07:46 AM

Thanks! There will only be a short length (~1-2') of flexible 3", wire-reinforced, hose connecting the front bumper duct to the inner fender air duct, so it won't require any support. I will also fit an inline filter towards the bumper duct to prevent debris and moisture from getting blow into the engine bay.

I would love to produce the parts but I don't have the time to fabricate this stuff. I love doing it for my car but the enthusiasm falls flat when I've got to do a bunch of them. Not to mention, people wouldn't want to pay for what I would have to ask to make it worth my time.

jr_ss · 02-01-2012, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I would love to produce the parts but I don't have the time to fabricate this stuff. I love doing it for my car but the enthusiasm falls flat when I've got to do a bunch of them. Not to mention, people wouldn't want to pay for what I would have to ask to make it worth my time.

Especially on this site... Sorry to say it, but the majority of 240sx owners are cheap asses. Quality is not always in their budget when they purchase goods.

Everything is looking good man. Any updates, such as motor in the bay? I've got to get a build thread going with the VVL project, I just don't have the time to piece everything together to make it post worthy ATM.

Big Zee · 02-01-2012, 03:14 PM

I love this thread, it's so fun to read, awesome pictures, not hard on the brain and a lot of DIY! one question though, do you still have both S14's ? or did you end up getting rid of the black one ?

I really like your drive-shaft spacer, I hope you don't mind me using that idea for my car

keep up the awesome work!

01-05-2012, 12:55 AM	#61
bc. Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: St. Louis Posts: 868 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	First of all, great writing in this build, I can actually read everything you type without getting bored or confused. When I saw your recirc setup I laughed and said, 'holy shit!' out loud. That is some cool shit right there man, I don't think I have ever seen anything like it before. Keep on keepin' on, everything looks great. __________________ * S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R *

01-06-2012, 02:03 PM	#64
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Ya man, K.I.S.S. I guess; lol. Ya man uwharrie was a riot and worth the 5+ hour drive. I'll probably go back again this year. There are plenty of places to challenge even the higher end built rigs. Shit, I almost rolled my truck twice. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

01-17-2012, 10:03 AM	#65
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Update - 01-17-12 HA! Screw you weather. Fortunately a 40k BTU heater and 8 gallons of propane later, I've overcome it! Cool thing about this little paint project is that it's the first of many things for me. It's the first time I've painted something indoors; which rocks! It's the first time, I got to use my new HVLP gun and its also the first time a paint project hasn't taken my efforts and smashed them to pieces. I have to tell you, painting is an incredibly rewarding part of any project. Instantly your months of hard work has been converted to a finished product. It's also one of the most frustrating things I've had to learn. In the past I've painted a hand full of things (valances, bumpers, wings, motorcycle fairings, etc...) all in all probably 15 or so different projects. Within that list, there has been equally as many headaches; if not more. This time however, not so much; thankfully. Here's what I did. Considering there was a good deal of new metal I prepared all of those surfaces with a 3M etch primer. As I detailed in some previous posts (I think) I capped the triangular openings at the back of the inner fenders, plug welded a bunch of the unused holes in the fenders, relocated where the engine harness passes through the firewall, capped and shortened the fronts of the frame rails, ground out all of the factory undercoating, removed the center core support/ hood latch strut and the tub work obviously. Here some pictures of that. After some thought about what color, and how to produce the finish that would be ideal, I decided to go with something I was familiar with. I've had good success with this SEM's Hot Rod Black on a few bikes. It's tough as nails, fuel and oil resistant (to an extent) and produces the sheen that I wanted for the bay. It's also cheaper than a 2 stage with a flattening agent added to the clear. Here are a couple bikes I've done in the past. I actually tried "dusting" this bike on the final coat to give it a flatter look. Supplies! All of this ran about $125 Considering the new inner fender work, I opted to seam seal everything from the underside so that I could retain the stitched appearance in the bay. Here are a couple picture from that. It's a 3M paintable beige. With all of the involved body prep done, I constructed a paint booth from 1.5mil 20x10 plastic rolls and attached it to my rafters. After about a days worth of pre-heating the body, I waited for a mid 60F day, to boost my heating ability, and shot the paint. Covered all of my bases, from prep & cleaning to temperatures to gun settings. Which finally brought me to that all important moment; shooting paint. For those who have not painted an engine bay before, it's not an easy target. You're constantly changing your fan pattern to get in all the nooks and crevasse; not to mention fighting the urge to paint what you must lean over to shoot the more interior features. Either the case, it's done. Fast forwarded for your viewing convenience; lol. I've let the paint cure for a little over a week now and am now just waiting to receive my exhaust components back from ceramic coating. Should be Friday of this week. Once I have that back, I guarantee I'll have the motor back in and plumbed for good in under 6-7 hours. Now the fun begins!!! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFTlock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

01-18-2012, 10:32 AM	#66
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,056 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	Lookin good man... I dig the "protective" cap, should've just thrown a paint suit in with all your materials. I just finished priming my bay, guide coat sanding is a lot of work. Keepin my eye on this. Good luck __________________ My SR20VET

01-20-2012, 05:17 PM	#67
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Ya.... It dawned on me AFTER I got home, so I said fuck it, I'm not washing paint out of my hair anymore. On a side note; my exhaust parts are back from ceramic. Is this hot or is this hot? That's one fine looking 20G if you ask me. Unfortunately, however they forgot to ceramic coat the manifold hardware. I know it isn't necessary but I really regretted not doing it last time after I bolted the rusted OEM hardware over that pretty ceramic. Not this time. I did however take a second and rivet in my cold air intake duct; that shit's poppin! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFTlock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson Last edited by s14unimog; 01-20-2012 at 06:34 PM..*

01-05-2012, 07:54 AM	#63
onehundredoctane Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Greensborough, NC Posts: 2,783 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Love it when people diy and still manage to keep things simple and straight forward, not to mention CLEAN! So the Uwharries huh? I grew up about 20 minutes from them, I hear there are some tough trails with huge rocks over there. . . never was into 4x4's but as I've gotten older I've been thinking more about it.

01-20-2012, 05:44 PM	#68
sex14 Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: WA Age: 33 Posts: 243 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	awesome build man, thumbs up from a fellow zenki owner.

01-20-2012, 06:02 PM	#69
homeslicej2 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Adairsville, GA Age: 37 Posts: 152 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Loving this still. I enjoy finding updates on your build. I know that's a Greddy turbo elbow, it looks like a Greddy DP too. Who did the ceramic coating? I've been thinking of having Swaintech coat all of my exhaust (to the test pipe) and hot side IC piping. Did you weld in a bung on the DP for a wideband O2 before the coating?

01-20-2012, 06:10 PM	#70
JaredP Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Canada Age: 31 Posts: 443 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	looks sick man, i didnt realise in the tub thread that your bay was black (in the pics it looks like it has almost a bronze in it). all the pics answered any questions i may have had too and i cant wait to see the engine in. ceramic coat sure is nice to deal with too, makes such a different

01-20-2012, 11:46 PM	#72
A54 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Norcal Posts: 273 Trader Rating: (40) Feedback Score: 40 reviews	Nice Thread...

01-23-2012, 08:30 AM	#73
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Gettin there... __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

01-23-2012, 09:05 AM	#74
OBEEWON Post Whore! Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hightened State of Emergency Posts: 6,051 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Paint is as smooth as butter on a baby's bottom. __________________

01-23-2012, 04:43 PM	#75
homeslicej2 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Adairsville, GA Age: 37 Posts: 152 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Bay looks fantastic. Thanks for the heads up on the powdercoater, but Swaintech's ceramic exhaust coating is far beyond a simple paint or powdercoat. I'm glad Carroll's engine builders has experience with SR's and other imports with tight tolerances. Around here, all the machine shops are used to old Ford/Chevy/Dodge engines with massive tolerances (compared to imports & modern domestics that is). I wouldn't trust any of them with my little 4-banger.

01-23-2012, 09:40 PM	#78
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 36 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	Nice choice on the engine bay paint. Flat or Semi Matte is the only way to fly IMO...I hate when the rest of an engine bay is overly shiney. __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

01-23-2012, 10:34 PM	#79
OnPoint Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Los Angeles, CA Age: 33 Posts: 62 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	this is so bad ass. I remember seeing that ka-t years ago.

01-31-2012, 12:16 AM	#81
homeslicej2 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Adairsville, GA Age: 37 Posts: 152 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I just noticed that from a previous post that you put your wideband O2 in the greddy turbo elbow location. I know AEM recommends placing theirs ~36inches downstream of the turbo bc the heat can damage the sensor.

01-31-2012, 01:13 AM	#82
ixfxi Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: bangin on my chest Account: BANNED #fucksupreme Age: 79 Posts: 5,923 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	this guy is making a lot of people on zilvia look stupid my suggestion? take notes and pay attention nice work

01-31-2012, 09:13 AM	#84
anarchyperf Zilvia Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Nazareth, Pa Age: 36 Posts: 194 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Looking good! Look forward to seeing this all together. What engine management are you going to run? __________________ www.anarchyperformance.com - Your source for 240sx Performance! https://www.facebook.com/anarchyperformance - Like us on facebook Email: [email protected]

01-31-2012, 10:17 AM	#85
NismoTuner21 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Wellington, FL Age: 30 Posts: 658 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Fucking rad work man! So jealous of your tig skills and work area lol. Can't wait to see it put together and running.

01-31-2012, 06:53 PM	#87
JohnnyDrfiter22 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: New Jersey Age: 38 Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Wow Amazing Build!!! Wanna produde more catch cans and sell them?? Also what is used to hold up the piping from the air duct

02-01-2012, 07:46 AM	#88
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Thanks! There will only be a short length (~1-2') of flexible 3", wire-reinforced, hose connecting the front bumper duct to the inner fender air duct, so it won't require any support. I will also fit an inline filter towards the bumper duct to prevent debris and moisture from getting blow into the engine bay. I would love to produce the parts but I don't have the time to fabricate this stuff. I love doing it for my car but the enthusiasm falls flat when I've got to do a bunch of them. Not to mention, people wouldn't want to pay for what I would have to ask to make it worth my time. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

02-01-2012, 03:14 PM	#90
Big Zee Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: BC Age: 37 Posts: 860 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	I love this thread, it's so fun to read, awesome pictures, not hard on the brain and a lot of DIY! one question though, do you still have both S14's ? or did you end up getting rid of the black one ? I really like your drive-shaft spacer, I hope you don't mind me using that idea for my car keep up the awesome work!

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