Pure_JDM

I have an SR20DET Redtop in my s13 coupe... It has a distributor, coil and plug wires. I was told this was converted to a distributor and that it once had a different setup. Im completely ignorant when it come to ignition systems, so can someone please tell me why it would be benefencial one way or the other, and if I should convert it back or leave it alone? I'm currently having problems with my car starting when it's warmed up. It cranks when it's cold, so long as you get it on the first try. After it's warmed up, you can't crank it by key. It turns over, but doesnt start. Has fuel in the fuel rail. Getting spark at the spark plugs. I'm stumped. Lately my car has been running really crappy when I get on the throttle partially. WOT stutters but then takes off like a scalded ape. What could be causing the stuttering? 20 bucks paypaled to the person with the fix for my car.

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have you tried replacing the spark plugs?

Pure_JDM

Just did last week. They are super black already.

eklips3

my guess on the studdering is maybe because your timing on the distributor could be off by a tiny bit ... try advancing or retarding your ignition timing and see if it does anything.

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1992 240sx (RB20. [email protected])

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okay. now, you know where the iacv is? (idle air control valve) take off the adjusting screw and spray carb cleaner in there while someone turning the car on. once it starts, it'll choke but its okay. keep sprayin another 2 seconds and let it clear up. install the screw back on and anjust it to 900rpm at idle. hopefully it helps

Pure_JDM

i'll give this a try tomorrow... IF this happens to be the case and works, i'll honestly send you 20 bucks. I'm so fed up with jumping through hoops to figure out this weird ass issue. there are 2 other guys on here having IDENTICAL problems as well. would be nice to have a fix and be able to post it up for future use.

idamaster

Do not use carb cleaner, over time it will destroy the IACV, use maf cleaner. Also you might want to clean/check your MAF, your motor is running too rich. Check your fuel pressure, also if you can just unbolt your fuel rail with the injectors, put a piece of cardboard under the injectors and then turn the ignition on, dont start the car, the fuel pump will prime, check the cardboard for any leaks. If there is a leak check your O rings, if they are all fine then its the injector. Also, this is pretty important, make sure your coolant temp sensor is plugged in/working it will cause your motor to run rich thinking that it is cold.

Pure_JDM

ida, your location is louisiana or los angelos?... also, i have pulled an injector out to be sure the fuel rail was charging when i first started having this issue, as i always check fuel and spark from the get-go. it always primes, and the fuel pump always comes on when i turn on the ignition. i dont think it's an issue with getting fuel, so much as an issue of how much fuel or timing of the fuel, even... or whether fuel is even the issue. i'm about to replace the coolant sensor, maybe buy another MAF just to be safe. im so sick of chasing these little gremlins... but then again thats what i get for wanting to daily an old turboed car.

idamaster

Yeah Im having the same problem but if its running rich it should be something that controls fuel or air, Maf, coolant sensor, fuel pressure, leaky o rings, leaky injectors, be sure to check all of them though...etc Im in the dirty south haha, in the north, Shreveport Bossier area...

LayNLow

Sounds like this was a SR20DE converted to a DET as the DE's use distributor ignitions. Second as for your hot start problem it sounds like it could be the ecu temp sensor. Your studdering problem could be the timing is off, or too much of a plug gap, or even the wrong type of plugs. Which ones are you using? Also what color are your fuel injectors? They may be maxxing out if they are non turbo injectors. But I am not sure what size they are or what they will hold.

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Pure_JDM

Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, rewired my entire engine bay harness, sanded all my grounds and reconnected them, replaced the waterpump out of good measure, added some fuel injector cleaner, some fresh v-power gas, and viola. Cranks everytime, runs like a scalded ape again, and idles smooth as ever.

idamaster

My father put in the sensor without a problem.... He would kid of push it down towards the ground as he was tightening it. I found the old one right before and they had the same EXACT pitch of threading. Im in the process of installing the intake mani..

LayNLow

So who is getting the 20$?

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Pure_JDM

for guessing 6 things? i just hope he can fix his... i'll buy him lunch if he's ever down in baton rouge! lol.

kikcaffine

What are your plugs gapped to? Gap them to .28

idamaster

Mine was the coolant sensor, it fixed my problem. I didnt think it would though.

Z U L8R

sounds like a bad coolant temp sensor.

the ecu is going to use the reference from the cam angle sensor that's built into your distributor which will distribute mechanically the spark to all 4 cylinders and then electrically give the cam position to the ecu so it can then send the ground signal to fire the injectors.

because your car gets fuel or spark hot or cold, the distributor is most likely NOT your problem

when a coolant temp sensor goes bad however typically it'll tell the ecu it's -40 degrees outside therefore since the intake manifold/intake valves are cold, the heat from them won't atomize fuel as well, therefore, just like any cold motor, extra fuel is added to compensate so the same programmed air fuel ratio can be maintained.

therefore your ecu is supplying the extra fuel needed to start a cold motor. however when your motor is truly hot but your ecu doesn't know this (because of a bad coolant temp sensor) then it'll still dump a ton of fuel which is actually now too much and the car will not start.

i guess the first thing you could do is check your plugs to see if they're pretty black, that would indicate a rich condition.

if found, or even if you're just fed up, pop a $16 coolant temp sensor in there and be done with it.

the one you need will have 2 wires, not the coolant temp sending unit for the guage that just has 1 blade terminal sticking out of the top of it.

you want the 2 wire coolant temp sensor for the ecu. make sure you relay that info to the dumb dumb at the parts store where you're buying it.

gl,

Dave

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