rps13_fastback

Hey guys I just completed my SR swap (still not running right) and I had to use a smaller battery because my recirc valve got in the way. Anyway, my friend gave me his Civic battery and it's slim enough to fit. My question is however, is that the cranking amps is only 620 (I believe) and the stock 240 battery should be 670 correct? Now I'm wondering if this will be a problem in the future. BTW it has been working fine but after our day of cranking the shit out of the engine (wouldn't start in the beginning) the battery light has come on (but very dim). Any input is appreciated, thanks guys

kuruptR

I have a small battery its a pain in the ass... My car has trouble starting, but the battery doesnt need charging... lights go really dim when the car isnt on.

It probably worked good for 1 month, Iv had the battery for about 5 -6 months.

Get orignal battery, relocated it to the trunk with a relocation kit.

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ICKY

I agree, ive got a spot of rust on my battery tray and im just going to sand it all down n reloacate it to the back.

Bryants95240sx

just a spot? you got lucky. i guess some idiot spilt battery acid or a batter leaked on to my tray. well i have no battery tray anymore nor do i have the metal under it either .theres now a 5x7 rectangle cut out where i had to get rid of the rust it was so bad i could poke my finger through it. and this is on a s14 you would think that i wouldnt have problems with rust.

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idlafie

According to Nissan and the information in the FSM, your buddy's Civic battery should suffice. A stock KA24DE motor requires about 360 cold cranking amps to start. In colder weather, (like in Canada), it will require 415 amps. Your SR motor shouldn't require much more cold cranking amps than the stock KA motor so you shouldn't have to worry too much about problems in the future. Just make sure your buddy's battery is a SEALED Maintenance FREE type battery where you don't have to add any water to it. A good majority of batteries on the market now-a-days are the Low-Maintenance type batteries in which you have to remove the battery caps to add distilled water to to maintain battery fluid levels. Over time, the fluid levels in the battery drop resulting in your battery not charging like it should, till one day the fluids are so low that the battery can no longer hold a charge resulting in your battery crapping out on you.

Anyhow, getting back to Cold Cranking Amps, (CCA), it refers to the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds at 0°F until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. For example, a 12 volt battery with 600 CCAs means the battery will provide 600 amps for 30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20 volts (six cells). The higher the CCA, the more powerful the cranking ability.

If you live in a cold climate where it snows & get's hella cold, you should consider the CCA rating when choosing a battery. As the temperature drops, the cranking power required by the car increases. However, as more cranking power is used, the amount of battery power available decreases. If you live in warmer climates, like in San Diego or Los Angeles, you don't need as much CCA.

Anyhow, hope this answers your question.
ID
'95 SE

rps13_fastback

thanks for the info kurupt and idla.

monkeyspeed

i use a lawn mower battery with 320 cca's...works fine, just don't leave the lights on for too long...