1CLNS14

Well I Made this Harness for my Friend who got an Effed up harness so I Figured I would share in hope this might help someone out someday.
Tools and other Shit you will need,
Soldering gun, 14 gauge wire, Needle nose pliers, Electrical tape(3M prefered), Heat Shrink Tubing, Original harness, Flat head screw Driver,
And Lots and Lots or Patience! Total time it took was about 3 hours! My first one and I pay close attention to small details.
First thing I did was cut open the original harness to route and cut new wires to the same length.
As you can see the original harness is effed up!, but no worries new 14 Gauge wire will be used.

Now as for the plugs, if your's are broken or missing you can use the same ones out of many other nissan's as long as the have the yellow tab inside.
They are 3 pronged connectors and used on other parts of the vehicle so may be sourced elseware. I scored a good set from our harness room at work.

I made a quik drawing of the the harness so I know where everything goes as you can see the First wire is a ground and are all connected to one wire.
the second one in line seems to be a main power wire that suplies constant power to the coil pack as it is also connected to one wire that goes to the
main plug. the last wire seems to be what gives the coil pack its signal to fire so is individually connected to the main plug, you will also notice the
first cylinder coil pack signal wire is spliced into to different places on the main plug, I do think one is the signal to fire and the other tells the
Ecu the first cylinder has fired. Now here's my sketch and then a better one on ms paint.


Second now that you know where everything should go and how it works, you need to take apart your chosen connectors, the yellow insert comes out fairly
easy by inserting a small flat head screw driver in the red area.

once out there are three clips that need to be "unlocked" to release the old wires.

You should now have the wire out and you will need to save the metal clip. To open the Wire spread open the clip here,

Once apart the rubber "boot" can slide out and the wire may be removed and thrown away. the area where the wire was will be where the new Wire will be soldered.

So now Choose what color you want to identify what and cut wire to length. I chose black for all grounds and Red for the Main power and black for the signal wire.
Dont mix them up or you will have problems later on so mark everything! here are my first three wires to the first cylinder Coil pack.(black and red is all I had)

Now Use the metal clips and crimp the area you spread open onto the new wires after using a good wire stripper on them.

Solder them till they are nice and tight, dont be messy with solder or leave it to bubbly as it wont allow the "boot" to go over them!. Slide the boot
over the wire and you should be ready to clip them into the connector now.

They should make a "click" noise when it is in the connector securely, and after the "click" turn it over and install the locking yellow clip, and
if you cleaned the connector like I did reinstall the green silicone o-ring that goes inside the connector.



Repeat untill you have all four finished keeping in mind to measure and compare the length to the original harness!. I decided to use a wire loom
and black electrical tape to protect the harness, I dont like using the tape but it's all I had at the moment so if you must I prefer 3M.
Compare the old protectors that came with the original harness and cut to length the New wire loom than tape if off all around till its
completly covered.



Be sure to add a small piece of shrink tubing the ends to keep debree out in the future. Use a heat gun or a small lighter torch to shrink the tubing.



Now remeber how the first wire is a ground connect them all together while adding one wire at the end to eventually connect to the back of the block.
and as for the second main power wire connect them together as well while also adding a wire at the end to connect to the main plug. I know it
seems weird but its how the original harness is so we are not doing anything extra or new.

A small piece of ziptie keeps them all in place while you solder. you remove them when ur done. Also shrink tube the area you have Soldered to protect them
and to keep them from contacting each other. Note the four signal wires and Main power wire and the number one cylinder wire to ecu should be marked and ready
for soldering. Take the connector apart. It is much easier and you reuse the metal clips aswell. Solder them the same way as the other ones.




Now plug the wires where they go, remember to keep looking at your diagram to make sure they dont get mixed up. you can shrink tube the rest or Tape it
off aswell, remember to Separate the ground wire and loom that aswell with a smaller loom. You are close to finishing remeber to use an electrical tester to make sure
you got solid connections and everything is where it should be. Test fit the harness and connect the ground wire and main plug and fire it off!






I hope this helps anyone, If you think I left something out (which I probably did, it's not easy working and taking pics as I go) add it in or I will
try and add it as I will more than likley make another one for me.

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Daily Driven

Wabash9000

looks clean! I like it.

slideways2004

looks really good. nice work

Modrified

very nice. clean too. good job.

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I CAN FLASH MODIFY YOUR XBOX 360.

murda-c

I could not do that with gloves on.

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bardabe

Clean job definetly.

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Review Thread

cgtdream

NIce work....just a question to be sure on something, you did REUSE the clips of the original harness right....And the boots look brand new...did you get new ones from a dealership, or are they also used?

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Juicy slayin aint easy, but dammit somebody has to do it!!!

1CLNS14

AA good point, I did reuse clips but the boots were not reused as the original harness uses 16 gauge for the grounds and 14 guage for the rest, so I am left with 6 correct size boots and 3 boots that are too tight.They do stretch but when you try and clip them into the connector it will just "slide" out. So i used some that I had saved from previous wirejobs, you can find more boots from other connectors on any nissan as they all use them.

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Daily Driven

Slammed Assassin

good job. its clean.

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florante rea

thank you for sharing!

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fdrea

burnsauto

posi rep for you sir. that came out very nicely.

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bbejj123

very nice i might be thinking of doing this!!!

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projectRDM

Super clean, there's rarely anything on here anymore that meets my over anal standards, that does. +1.

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FORMERLY R240NA

Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

1CLNS14

I am super anal when it comes to details, and im a believer in DIY, so for anyone needing info, I do hope this will help and if anything show that it isn't "impossible".

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Daily Driven

socal_kouki

Roman, you're a jack of many trades. +1

Z U L8R

makes me wanna do one for the wasted spark set up, no more coil on plug

clean work, heat shrink FTW

i like repinning things too

Dave

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RB25 280z GT30/76R 441hp/381tq [email protected]

genericforumname

1CLNS14

Its actually just a new valve cover, so its just factory black. Has never been repainted. Part number is 13264-69F02.

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Daily Driven

Senor_Nismo

thats what I love about 240 forums, always crteative people that inspire you to do it yourself instead of taking it to some mickey mouse place. Damn good thread man Posi rep given

WoolyS14DET

Roman can you teach me how to do that to my car ??? YOur so effing good !!! And i like how in the one pic you have the VQ and your SR In the background !! YOu anal fuk you !! Ha Ha wait Im just as bad !! Good job though !!! +1 dick !! LOL

Tearlessj

Where would I be able to buy some of the clips? Great write up! +1

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Nagasaki Motors
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WoolyS14DET

Go to your local dealer and ask them !! They are in a Shop supplied harness repair/terminal kit. Every dealer has them. If they don't have them or say that they don't know what your talking about then hit me up and I'll get you some !!