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Motorsports and Skilled Driving Discussion for Organized Racing and motorsports and tips and techniques at becoming a better driver. |
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09-12-2005, 04:19 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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full lock, wheel wobbles...
i have a s13, lowerd on old school jic coilovers, with tein tie rods, and spacers, no tir rod ends. since i installed these i have gained alottt more angle. the problem is now that i have installed them, when im at full lock my steering wheel and wheels will wobble really bad, sometimes to the point where its hard to pull the wheel out of full lock... i dont know how to fix this problem, is it too much toe, too much angle, or am i getting bump steer from the lack of tie rod ends.. any info would help, i have a track day coming up thur! thanks
Last edited by sonnysmr2; 09-12-2005 at 11:54 PM.. |
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09-12-2005, 05:15 PM | #2 |
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s chassis do that a lot. i thought it was just my car until i spoke to some people about it, and a pro drifter who confirmed that it's normal. I hate that feeling.
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09-12-2005, 07:30 PM | #3 |
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too much angle. when the car is going straight the control arms are in a triangle shape, as you move the wheel further to the left or right the triangle elongates getting more similar to a straight line, obviously less stable. nothings broken, just deal with it.
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09-28-2005, 05:40 PM | #6 |
Explain how it woobles alittle more indepth, I'm sure there's an engeering flaw that can easily be exposed and solved.
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09-28-2005, 08:16 PM | #7 |
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prolly too much angle, and not having TC rods. that hard pull is when you steer with the wheel to much and not the throttle.
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09-28-2005, 08:37 PM | #8 |
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high caster and too much angle
it shakes hard back and forth reduce caster shoudl help mine did when i was running the spacers w/ like 9 degrees caster it would shake. |
11-19-2011, 01:49 AM | #9 |
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Ancient thread but I found it "searching" to STFU... anyways I am having this happen to my car, at full lock the wheel shakes violently and gets stuck at full lock... is this just going over center?
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11-19-2011, 05:04 PM | #11 |
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I have the parts shop max v1 SAK knuckles, tein inners and outers with spacers, chopped bumpstops, 7 degrees castor, -2.3 camber and a little toe out along with the steering rack moved forward about 10mm. I seem to over centre a lot drifting in the rain, not so much on the dry but still sometimes.
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11-19-2011, 08:22 PM | #13 |
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why does castor make the wheel bind? assuming it isn't going over center caster shouldn't make it "bind", but maybe the dragging of the lower control arm forward (to gain caster) would cause it to go over center
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11-20-2011, 01:38 AM | #15 |
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Yeah it's the relation of the lca to the inner tie rod that causes bind, or rather the spindles pivot point to the inner tie rod's pivot point, the farther forward you get the inner tie rod's pivot the less bind and more control you have
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01-02-2012, 11:41 AM | #22 |
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It wobbles because the outer tie rod is moving in front of the rack, when you go past the center line of the rack, it puts the tie rod in a bind because you are pushing and pulling the knuckle back from the center line. If you look at an overhead view, youll notice that when your experiencing wobble, the outer tie rod end will travel in front of the center line of the rack. So if you REDUCE caster, you are effectively pushing your control arm back into the wheel well, this also pushes the tie rod end back enough to not exceed the center line of the rack.
Angle mods are rad if done correctly, honestly most people would be better off with rack spacers and a lot of caster. You can make gobs of angle with a PROPERLY adjusted suspension |
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