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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 12-27-2011, 04:36 PM   #1
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stupid rusted bolts...

i had the same problem on my s13. i ended up replacing the entire knuckle because i couldnt get the bolt out...

the lower bolt on the front strut of my s14 is froze. ive been beating the heck out of it, pb blasting it daily, and it just wont budge...

im sure there has to be a trick out there someone uses to get these loose?
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:54 PM   #2
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Clr? ............
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:04 PM   #3
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Try heating the nut with a torch... You can heat it and let it cool or heat it and quench it. You may also want to use a breaker bar on it for additional trq.
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:11 PM   #4
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the nut came off easy. the bolt is froze inside the knuckle. should i heat the knuckle? or the bolt? is that safe next to the shock?
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:38 PM   #5
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heat expands i would do the knuckle, cold contracts for the bolt
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:33 PM   #6
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heat expands i would do the knuckle, cold contracts for the bolt
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:40 PM   #7
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that knuckle is thick. i heated it for like 5 minutes with my propane torch and had no results.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:00 PM   #8
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Use a flamethrower .

No seriously though, all you can really do is pound on it until it breaks loose. Make sure theirs no pressure on the strut..
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:10 PM   #9
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:26 PM   #10
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Have you tried impacting it? YOu'vbe put a long pipe on a breaker bar too?
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:44 PM   #11
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Have you tried impacting it? YOu'vbe put a long pipe on a breaker bar too?
+1 for this
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:46 PM   #12
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i usualy use the long pipe from my heavy duty jack... eat more Frijoles!!! lol
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:16 PM   #13
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so the nut is off the bolt but the bolt is still stick in there?
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:26 PM   #14
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so the nut is off the bolt but the bolt is still stick in there?
Yup. It happens on my Macphearson style setups that have never been off
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:30 AM   #15
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You try tapping the part of the knuckle with a hammer where the bolt goes through? Like a ball joint kind of deal.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:29 AM   #16
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get a air hammer and get that bitch out. replace with new bolt afterwards
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:17 PM   #17
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i dont have an air hammer. i tried turning it with a breaker bar andjack handle but it started to strip the bolt so i stopped. i tried using a rusted bolt socket and it snapped the socket. i have been beating on the end of it with the nut threaded on with a 10lb sledge hammer. no luck. thats when i made this thread.


going out to heat the bolt and quench it. hopefully that works.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:21 PM   #18
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Make sure you halfway screw a nut onto the end or you'll mushroom the bolt, then you'll never get it out, you'll have to cut it out.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:35 PM   #19
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Living in the midwest I've been through this several times. Heat the knuckle with a torch like said above, and then with an impact on the bolt head try to spin both ways. Heat, spin, heat spin opposite way, repeat. That was how we got our best results.

Also have used a c-clamp before and with heat, pushed it out.
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:57 PM   #20
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Shit, I swapped exhaust out and the bolts are pretty much rustwelded in place. PB blasted it and torched it to no avail. Eventually, the nut just rounded off after using a breaker. Took the fucking grinder to it and just cut it off...
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:06 PM   #21
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Shit, I swapped exhaust out and the bolts are pretty much rustwelded in place. PB blasted it and torched it to no avail. Eventually, the nut just rounded off after using a breaker. Took the fucking grinder to it and just cut it off...
LOL gotta love those. Every time I think I’m close to everything popping out or unbolting flawlessly, something doesn’t want to come out. Sometimes that what it comes down to.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:55 PM   #22
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Well what sucked was I got the first one off permanently...the dam stud just broke off. When that happened, I knew already the 2nd one is gonna be a bitch. Murphy is my hommie...when shit goes wrong, it just gets worst.
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:51 PM   #23
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propane torch didnt work. trying oxycetylene tonight
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Old 12-31-2011, 02:22 AM   #24
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Wait, stuck strut to knuckle? You tried disconnecting the sway bar off the LCA? Sometimes that helps relieve the pressure on the suspension...
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:15 AM   #25
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Living in the midwest I've been through this several times. Heat the knuckle with a torch like said above, and then with an impact on the bolt head try to spin both ways. Heat, spin, heat spin opposite way, repeat. That was how we got our best results.

Also have used a c-clamp before and with heat, pushed it out.
do not use a torch to heat suspension parts, heat weakens cast iron causing it to become brittle and possibly break.
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Old 12-31-2011, 10:53 AM   #26
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i dont think a torch will do anything to a cast iron piece such as the knuckle.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:34 PM   #27
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do not use a torch to heat suspension parts, heat weakens cast iron causing it to become brittle and possibly break.
you obviously know nothing about mettallurgy. the knuckle would have to be heated glowing hot for several hours and then cooled in a matter of seconds for it to become brittle.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:34 PM   #28
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oh btw, oxycetelyne torch worked. the bolts are out. thanks
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:31 PM   #29
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you obviously know nothing about mettallurgy. the knuckle would have to be heated glowing hot for several hours and then cooled in a matter of seconds for it to become brittle.
no actually just getting white iron red hot once is enough to change its integrity. dose not need to be glowing for hours nor cooled quickly. why do you think people do brazing with cast vs traditional welding?

btw why is grey cast used on parts that take heat (engine block) and white/malleable cast used on areas that dont get heat?

have fun with your rust bucket
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