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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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03-10-2011, 02:39 PM | #1 |
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Idle Problems KADE
I had to go pick my sister up and after I had to get some gas when I first started my car, the idle level was at 1,000 RPM which is fine. It's pretty hot out in Cali so I turned the AC on. Picked my sister up, drove to the gas station filled the car up and when I started the car, the car started to idle below 1,000 RPM. Like maybe around 500. My car usually idles above 1K and now it's below.
I checked my oil and the oil is right on top of the first line... I'm not sure if that makes sense but here's a little illustration: if this was the end of the dipstick ---> (====|XXXXX| <----the oil level is here on the first line closest to the part that you pull Can anybody help me out, I've got class in a couple of hours and I'd like to know before I take it to a shop |
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03-10-2011, 02:56 PM | #2 |
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if you can see oil on the stick then your fine. The AC compressor is adding extra load on you crank slowing it down causeing a lower idle. If its idling and not having any issues then why are you worried? Who gives a shit where the car idles at as long as its running and not bouncing of the rev limiter.
oh and what would make you think "oh no my idle is low lets check the oil?" Usually if the oil is causing the car to idle funny then its too late and your putting a new motor in it. |
03-10-2011, 03:04 PM | #3 |
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I would say thanks but your information isn't very helpful.
The low idle is causing the car to shake a little more violently. And while I was driving it back, the throttle wasn't responding very well. And when the AC is on, the idle gets higher and starts to idle around 1K. While I was driving home, it was like the car had to work harder just to move. The car sounds like a damn motorcycle right now. |
03-14-2011, 08:40 PM | #4 |
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Your issue can be a number of things. However what comes to mind first to me is it sounds like not all of your cylinders are firing. Which is either spark or fuel.
Try this: While the car is running, pull out 1 spark plug wire at a time and see if the idle changes. For example: Pull out spark plug wire #1, did the idle change, yes or no? Plug it back in now. Pull out spark plug wire #2, did the idle change, yes or no? Plug it back in now. Pull out spark plug wire #3, did the idle change, yes or no?......etc What next: If you pulled out a spark plug wire and the idle got worse, that means that cylinder is firing and working properly. If you pulled out a spark plug wire and the idle stayed the same then you have located your problem cylinder. Once you have located the problem cylinder check for spark. You can check for spark by pulling out the spark plug wire and placing the tip of it against the edge of the valve cover. You should see it spark every other second or so. Try the same thing on a different cylinder and compare the results. If the spark seems the same (size/brightness of the spark as well as the timimg of the spark) then its probably not an ignition problem. Also pull out the actual spark plug (with the engine off and cool to touch) and inspect the tip of it. If you are getting spark then the issue is fuel. The injectors are know to go back in the KA's after 100k+ miles. You may need to replace an injector (if you replace the injector make sure you get NEW o-rings for it. Get oem nissan ones) |
03-15-2011, 11:33 AM | #5 | |
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