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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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06-01-2011, 12:54 AM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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doing S13 coupe Writeup Quarter panel replacement
Im doing a Complete Quarter panel replacement on my s13 coupe passenger side.I will be removing and replacing outer body metal,I will not be removing any structural part of frame. Ive searched the vast World wide web and could not find a DIY page anywhere. So I decided to do one. Many people might ask ,Why not just buy another shell? First off ,I just got my car smogged and dont want to swap everything over to new shell , plus I got all donor parts cheap. Went to Pick and pull and took advantage of 50% 0ff sale this past Memorial day weekend. $65 dollars for trunk hood Fuel door and Complete quarter panel.So i guess Im a cheap frugal dood always trying to save a buck.Anyways here is a list of tools Im using:
1. Sawzall with metal cutting blades. 2. safety glasses 3. Gloves (sharp metal ends will mess you up) 4. Utility knife 5. Electric or air powered drill with 1/4 inch bit 6.Die grinder with cut off wheel 7.Pliers 8.Flat head screwdriver 9.sharpy marker 10.Mig Welder 11. Metric socket set and wrachet 12. patience and Huevos. Dont puss out.. 13. hammer 14. Vise grips and C clamps 15. Hydraulic jack I will add to list of tools as I progress. First off Im not a Body and paint tech. So before I tear into my car and start cutting.I Figured Id Drill out all welds on the donor quarterpanel and remove outer panel.This will give me an opportunity to study th framework.I will not be using the structural support part of the donor . My goal is to do the same to my cars shell , as i will be welding the donor QP on it again.Today I just drilled out and separated the QP well almost finished. Here are some pics. By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 this is the crease at bottom of chassis Door if you look closely its where the Qp is welded onto rest of frame carefully follow lines and cut out and drill out welds. By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Use you Marker and Dot all spot welds look closely,thing like an engineer you will find them , drill em out be patient. By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Gently use screwdriver and pry apart.Ill post more tomorrow ,its late
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Last edited by nismolvr; 06-07-2011 at 09:28 AM.. |
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06-01-2011, 08:37 AM | #2 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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The bottom part of door jam has 3 layers of sheet metal, I only need outer body piece.I will have to pay extra attention and not cut into frame when removing QP from my car.
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 By nismolvr at 2011-05-31inner spot welds on frame door support By nismolvr at 2011-05-31
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06-04-2011, 10:25 PM | #3 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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update
Finally got to work on my car today , Yesterday I finished auto to manual s13 5 speed conversion installation into 95 s14.So i didnt have time to work on my car.Anyhow Today i finished preping outer metal skin from the donor car. I had to cut out a small portion of fender well in order to remove frame section at the bottom of door section.It is the only way to remove the the 3 layer metal section @ bottom . I will have to be extra carefull prepping this section on my car. I do not want to cut into frame .As I will only be removing outer skin.Hopefully keeping the structural frame intact.I will weld this piece back later .
This is the section that has to be removed By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 This is the piece I cut because the frame suppoort piece was welded under it , only way i could remove it.Height lenght 6 inches from bottom , I need to remember this info cause ,i dont want to cut frame .it will clear frame when i go to cut my cars out. By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 and its out By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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Last edited by nismolvr; 06-09-2011 at 10:55 PM.. Reason: update |
06-04-2011, 11:07 PM | #5 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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update
Also removed rear and side glass .Had my homie help me take rear glass out , we used a guitar string.Unfortunatelly I busted side glass. I had cut 80% of rubber silicone and I pried on it , big mistake .No biggie ,Ill get a side glass later.Took my utility knife and cut silicone rubber from glass base area , used a wire brush on a drill to further clean and expose spot welds . I will drill those out also.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 Important ! I removed gas tank !!! I dont want to burn up myself and home . Makes sense sience I will be cutting grinding and welding . By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 Removed tail light , rear bumper and rear center section. By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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06-04-2011, 11:49 PM | #6 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Young man, I figured It was time some one did one and documented it and shared .Ive searched everywhere, and got links to threads that directed people to take car to autobody repair shop or advised to just buy another shell.I understand why most just buy another shell.But in my case its cheaper . I have all the tools to do this. I do just about everything automotive exept body work untill now..I can fix small dents but my car needed major body work . I figured all i needed to to do ,is metal work, cut and weld , I didnt want 2 inches of body filler. My car was stolen about 3 months ago , the Ftards tried to drift it and kissed a fire hydrant ,hard. Hard enough to smash wheel and taco upper and lower control arms / toe links, shockand quarter panel was smashed ugly.Frame was not damaged .I fixed all that already.Drove car and drove normal didnt pull or dog track .Suspension and tire absorbed the hit.Guess im lucky , thank God those losers didnt strip it.
carnage By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 By nismolvr at 2011-06-04 By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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06-05-2011, 07:43 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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update
Today , I removed all the remaining factory spot welds and removed my beyond repair QP. First I began with the lower welds under door and continued along inside door jam and last ,inside side glass base .
You have to look closely and Center punch welds and drill em out.Used common sense and Donor QP as guide to find them. By null at 2011-06-05 Again Had to be careful and not cut the lines too deep , Im only removing outer skin and dont want to cut lower chassis frame.You can get away separating the line with utility knife, just to be safe. By null at 2011-06-05 drilled these out By null at 2011-06-05 This weld here has 3 layers of sheet metal , again I had to be careful and not cut this section all the way across.There is a plate inside here, I had to remove from donor panel. By null at 2011-06-05 here is old (above)and replacement QP. The lower (Replacement) has the plate I was mentioning earlier .I had to remove this from replacement as it will be on door / B pillar support. By null at 2011-06-05 plate removed By null at 2011-06-05 Important: I learned alot from removing donor QP metal skin.It gave me an opportunity to study the internal frame design . Remember that section I had to cut out from fender ? I had to do the same on my car ..Only this time I had to leave lower chassis in tact.I basically took the old piece and used it as a template and traced it inside wheel well.This will hep me from damaging the chassis . By null at 2011-06-05 Qick note , Inside wheel well. there is a crease all the way around . This is where internal chassis frame support is welded / located directly on opposite side DO not cut this LINE!!!!! Cut an Inch away toward outside well. I used 3M masking tape .Taped it along seam all the way around and used spray paint .let Dry and removed tape and walla i had a safe guide to cut ,Away and safely from doing damage to frame.This whats left if you do it right, see how i cleared lower frame and wheel well internal support. By null at 2011-06-05 FM aka FNNN Magic By null at 2011-06-05 Removing and cutting tail light / inside trunk section, is just common sense as well. Mocked it up after making some minor adjustments. Tomorrow I will cut C pillar QP to fit and weld. Its overlayed now.I will install trunk lid and align everything before welding anything.Making sure door aligns and closes perfectly. By null at 2011-06-05
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Last edited by nismolvr; 06-09-2011 at 10:59 PM.. |
06-05-2011, 08:36 PM | #9 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I figured i would contribute and maybe help some fellow Zylvians who need to repair their coupes. As far as I know ,I think Im the first to Do a write up....
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06-05-2011, 11:02 PM | #12 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
Age: 33
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ZILVIA. How do you get to this site typing it with a Y?
Very nice though. I love to see people who revive the S-chassis, especially the coupes. Love the color as well, I like the factory green, just not the tan/brown interior. Good job, bud.
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In search of a Zenki S14 right side (passenger) fender and straight hood that are rust free. |
06-05-2011, 11:14 PM | #13 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
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Quote:
The hell out of that color ,looks similar to British racing green.By the way I switched interior to black , I hadn't finished rear interior . Rockin Silvia everything,tuned sr Engine , Front end , alot of mods .With a/c !
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06-06-2011, 10:26 PM | #14 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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update
So Today my main mission was to align door ,C pillar , and trunk hood. So first off I needed to cut C pillar to fit .After brain storming and using my brain a little . I went over to my old QP , took a rool of 3m masking tape and taped over the C pillar section I cut off. I then took my trusted sharpy and traced curves and lines . Then I pulled tape off , placed it over a piece of card board and cut the C pillar tracing. I then took Template and taped it directly over Exact section on Donor QP.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Self explanatory By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Perfect cut By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
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06-06-2011, 11:03 PM | #15 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Important Note : It is very important that the C pillar get aligned perfectly First ,otherwise everything else will not. I tried aligning Trunk hood and and Nothing worked untill , I aligned C pillar first , then I used vise grips and even C clamps , even a floor jack to temporary hold Qp in place , After studying All major welding surfaces I noticed it was slightly off.
I took a C clamp and put it on door jamb and tightened it Untill it aligned C pillar Glass sections perfectly. By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 this allowed me to flush the C pillar perfectly, Like my Poor mans Stright edge? By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Installed tail light also , just making sure everything aligns By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 I also adjusted trunk locking mechanism a little , this gives extra adjustment for the hood helps in centering it. By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Everything lined up By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
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06-06-2011, 11:30 PM | #16 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
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more
This section is located behind trunk hinge, fit perfect again.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 inside trunk vertical section of spot welds by tail light By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 above view of trunk floor section By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 So I proceeded to spot weld untill I ran out of wire. By nismolvr at 2011-06-06 Tacked the rear and primered welds , its late will post more tomorrow. By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
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Last edited by nismolvr; 06-09-2011 at 11:03 PM.. |
06-09-2011, 11:20 PM | #17 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I was too tired to update yesterday, But Today I finished ! First off I ran to home depot and got welding wire. Got home and spot welded C pillar . Welded complete underside wheel well. Preped C pillar surface and added body filler , shaped it and primered it.
By null at 2011-06-09 By null at 2011-06-09 By null at 2011-06-09 By null at 2011-06-09 By null at 2011-06-09
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06-09-2011, 11:46 PM | #19 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Welding the wheel well was hard , Prep work is a must and a dirty job . Use a dust mask and safety glasses . Grinding the Undercoating wass not fun at all. Before welding , I made sure I had a fire extinguisher handy just in case. As most 240sx owner know there is a shit load of Black tar insulation crap all over the Chassis. This stuff is flamable!Be aware that there may be foam inside the C pillar , Please remove anything inside that may cause a fire.
I started welding slowly , I mean like short bursts and pause for a second and continued .I had my welder on lowest settings , you have to be carefull you dont keep burning through. It helps to put a wet damp rag on inside rear passenger compartment QP. ( behind the surface you are welding).It goes slow but it helps , keep in mind to constantly check for fires. Here is the end result, its not my best , but its functional. Sprayed with undercoating to protect . By null at 2011-06-09
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06-10-2011, 12:06 AM | #21 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I used this stuff.
By null at 2011-06-09 This is the upper corner tail light section inside above th filler hose. not a very good picture , but it shows I had to weld a strip of sheet metal.I later siliconed hard to reach areas and sprayed more undercoating. By null at 2011-06-09 This is a patch job inside. By null at 2011-06-09 It aint pretty but its reinforced again By null at 2011-06-09 After I sanded and primered everything , Looks Fn Great . By null at 2011-06-09 By null at 2011-06-09 Im so proud of my self. I spent less than 100 dollars on QP and materials! I just adde my will and hard work . I hope this helps some one else , who needs to fix their S13 coupe.Now I just need to install all the glass, and side skirts and rear valance and wing.
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06-10-2011, 08:55 AM | #24 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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I finished in 3 days. Im guestimating between 25 to 30 hrs. I took my time , you know the old saying measure twice cut once ? It was my first time doing any major body repair . I wanted to make sure everything was lined up correctly.I guess a proffesional body shop would of done it quicker . I didnt race through it , took my time .
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06-11-2011, 02:52 PM | #25 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Modesto,California
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Almost ready for paint
Today I had a shop install rear glass.Im looking for a rear side glass, anyone in NorCal, 209 area that has one for sale? Anyways, here are some pictures.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-11 By nismolvr at 2011-06-11 By nismolvr at 2011-06-11
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06-30-2011, 10:51 AM | #29 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Coatesville PA
Age: 30
Posts: 220
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wow... this is inspiring man. I always felt that i could do body work on my projects but this write up makes me want to actually get to it!
nice s13 too |
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