Blackmassive2669

I got into my 89 240 after work, start it up, and it was shaking super crazy. And i mean CRAZY, to the point the whole car was shaking. Immediately thought it was the engine mount or tranny mounts but when i blimp the throttle, it doesnt sound right. The revving sounds more heavier or skipping. The sound of the exhaust(stock) sounds like a street port FD or a bike. Like a deep dun dun dun sound. I try to drive to it and the whole engine has a different sound. From a healthy engine to an engine that went to shit. Idles is the still the same, 1k then stays from 700 to 900 rpms. No check engine light on. And all the compression is at 160(did a test 2 weeks ago). I never push my car

I try to search but all the forums were engine mounts questions, so I'll check it out this weekend but wanted to find more solutions. Or I'll appreciate it of someone would link a forum with this problem cause my search skills are ass

Could it be a bad injectors?

kyral

a leaking injector can do that. if u suspect them unplug them one at a time and if the car runs better you know that injector is acting up somehow by dumping tons of fuel for what ever reason
a misfire can cause this too

I also don't believe your 89 has no CEL. try pulling codes out of it. the bulbs burn out since the CEL is on 24/7 in these cars. mine was totally missing

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Alpod

Its sounds like its definitely misfiring. You need to isolate which cylinder(or cylinders) are acting up then go from there. Could be something like a bad injector, or spark.

Blackmassive2669

Thanks for the replies guys.

Crazy enough, pulled spark plug wire uno out and the car acted the same when the rest of them affected the engine idle. Planning on buying a new set anyways.

But this is what got me tripping balls. Assuming its would be the injector, i went to get a closer look and moved the injector wire and the thing wanted to die on me. what the fuck. If i lift up the wire, the engine kinda dies, but goes back when the wire rest. The second one acted the same way but number 3 and 4 didnt. Im still getting new injectors but i feel these wires or connectors are damned to hell. Is this a misson to do?

Blackmassive2669

So i pulled the spark plug wires while it was running and surely enough, cylinder 1 was the only cylinder that didnt affect the car idle. Fuck it, added spark plugs in the cart

Assuming if it was the injector, i decided to take a closer look, and randomly pushing the injector connector(wire), and the damn thing almost turned off on me. Wtf? Not normal right? This happened to both injector 1 and 2 connector (wire).

Still planning on taking off the injector for cylinder 1 and replacing it to see if this solves my shakey engine, idle, and shit drive. If it works, every cylinder is getting a new injector.

But now im wondering, what do i do with those bad connectors? It goes back to normal when it set back to place. Its crazy cause i never knew it did that until today.

kyral

they get heavily corroded but you can get new ones on ebay for like an RB motor thats what i did and soldered them in

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Blackmassive2669

Injector and o rings came in. Only did one injector just in case if this wasnt the problem. Also bought new spark plugs.

Installed them and now i dont have a misfire! Seems it was the injector causing the problem. Engine and exhaust now sounds like it used to and its not shaking like crazy anymore. Probably swap out the rest of the injectors now and a new fuel filter since thats what the fsm said

Wanted to thanks everyone who helped out!

acrackheadincali

dope. glad you solved the problem!

Blackmassive2669

OKAY SPOKE TOO SOON.
Once i changed everything, it started good. Took it out for a drive an hour later, and on my way back, it started to sound like it was misfiring again. Felt a slight loss of power, and the car started shaking a little. Didnt sound right when i was accelerating. My idle started steady at 800 rpm, and once this happened, it was at 700 rpm. Pulled the spark plug wire from cylinder 1 to see if the injector got fried, but the engine was affected from that (that's always good right?).

Any other suggestions?

Can it be fuel pump/filter problem or something simple like a new cap and rotor? Burning through my savings now lol

Blackmassive2669

New cap and rotor didnt do anything but at least its new. Gonna try a new fuel filter tomorrow. Please throw more suggestions please lol

Blackmassive2669

New update

Decidied to see if my ecu is showing codes

Currently have code 14 and 21

Code 14 is speed sensor issue which im aware of(speedometer doesnt work lol)

What caught my eye though was code 21 which is Ignition signal missing in primary coil

So i bought a new ignition coil and installed it

Once started up, it sounded like ass and now cylinder 3 is misfiring(pulled spark plug wire out and engine wasnt affected)

So i guess i still have misfiring issues

Welp, so i bought the rest of the injectors and fuel system cleaner to clean everything fuel related like the lines and stuff(Is this stuff worth it or dont use it? Its the techron brand)

kyral

a fuel filter is highly unlikely to be an issue
techron is good (all injector cleaners are)

check out the engine control and emmissions chapter in the s13 fsm I assume your sohc but the dohc electronics are pretty much identical in how they work
they have diagnostic procedures step by step very simple to work you through this.

I got a 21 and it ended up being my distributor though my symptoms were a little different

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goat_horde

im curious to know how this turns out...im having some rough idling, bad start ups, and potential misfires. i will be changing plugs and wires and maybe new starter asap. i have the infamous egr malfunction code so my cel is on, if i drive it like this can it potentially cause further damage to other areas of the car?

Blackmassive2669

Ive had some bad startups and rough idling in the past but those were usually by buying new parts rather than trying to clean them. For rough idles, I'll check everything air related. It could be anything from maybe a bad MAF sensor, to bad hose that cause a vacuum leak. Or it can be fuel/ignition problem like worn distributor or fuel pump.
Wish i can be helpful for your egr problem but i dont have the slightest clue of what can be a solution.

As for an update for my situation
ONE injector came in and the other 2 on Tuesday. My 3rd cylinder started to misfiring right after i changed Cylinder 1 injector.
Installed 3rd injector and ran my car and it ran awesome. Was worth buying a new cap and rotor, spark plugs and ignition coil because it ran totally different but in a good way.
Gonna keep updating till the other 2 are installed. Going to take it to work and back to see if i experience anymore problems

My1st240sx

I had same problem n it was bad injector. Quick trip to junk yard n cleaned up all injectors I got. Replaced bad one n shaking stopped.

goat_horde

Did you check the injectors before pulling them? And how so??

Kingtal0n

these engines are extremely simple, air fuel spark

air: start with compression test

spark: if it seems to run at all then the spark is going, it means the computer is decoding 'cam disc' and 'trying' to throw spark. Pull each plug, crank and watch for spark against intake manifold. verify grounds. If necessary replace ignition components (like a tune up; do a tune up: Cap, plugs, wires, ign module, inspect and clean wiring)

fuel: it goes, maf -> computer -> injectors.

Start with the maf, do a pressure test, play find the air leak. verify fuel pressure. A wideband is infinitely useful here but I do not expect a non performance car to have one. Inspect injector area, injector wires/connections. you can also check continuity of injector wires (unplug ECU and use ecupin ->injector-> ecu pin, so you can see 14-16 ohms on the meter while you wiggle the injector plug if you suspect injector wiring issue.

make sure ecu plug is isn't loose (just snug)

recommendations:
It's usually an air leak or fuel pump. verify fuel pressure and find the air leak.

goat_horde

[QUOTE=Kingtal0n;6301699]these engines are extremely simple, air fuel spark QUOTE]

Didnt want to quote the entire thing but its all use full since I know little about these engines. I'll go through the areas I understood and see if I get my own s13 to stop shaking. I'm idilng between 700-1000rpm usually closer to 1k. Is that normal?

kyral

[QUOTE=goat_horde;6301706]1k on start up or higher is normal it should idle down to 700 ish but 1000 is just a high idle and can be adjusted with the iacv.
And to answer the EGR code question no its fine to drive with that code and I wouldn't jump to a starter for hard starts unless the motor turns very sluggishly



A lot of injectors ive done ive inspected and reused my old lower O rings causer the kits on the market seem to come with really big O rings that jam up and cause massive fuel leaks

BUT didn't you say something about pushing on the injector connectors and the motor almost dieing? that's a cause for concern and is something id look into like I said earlier these get heavily corroded

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Blackmassive2669

Update

I installed the last of the injectors and holy crap, it made a huge difference. It pulled way better than it did before and that makes the cost worth it. Thank you everyone who helped out

Things that i wish i couldve done was find some injectors at a junkyard and got them clean (like how my1st240sx mentioned) while buying some new o rings. Would've came out cheaper than what i spent.

My connectors are also ass. Seems like the last guy who had them JB welded the connectors to the injectors cause cylinder 3 and 4 connectors were cracked and chipped, but was still able to connect. As for cylinder 1 and 2 wires(connectors), they seem to not be affected unless you really pull up on them. Going to let them be for now, but its nkw on the "To Do" list. Gonna follow Kyral advice for this one

goat_horde

what injectors did you buy?...i want to do the same now but since im in socal i will find a hard time finding any ka engines in the junkyards near me (trust me, the second they roll in the workers already have a list of people to call first before it hits the lot)

kyral

try checking similar year nissans in the yard. the 270cc injector is red and double check the connector on it (pink and purple are no goes)

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Blackmassive2669

I bought
GP Sorensen Fuel Injector from autozone. 80 bucks a piece and they come with o rings so you don't have to reuse them. Im also in socal so i understand the struggle of having a 240 land in a lkq and disappears within a week lol.

goat_horde

a friend works at autozone with a small discount. but i might try the other route at the junkyard first. new ones will run me over 300 but they come with piece of mind im sure

goat_horde

arent there only exteras with them?

kyral

ichecked my parts catalog and its CLAIMS a lot of 90's model nissans had these injectors
g20 95-99
j30 93-97
Altima 93-99
240sx 91-98
300z 93-96 NA models
sentra 91-99
200sx 95-98
maxima 95-99
if you know this to be otherwise please feel free to point that out cause im not 100% sure on this list but it was pulled from a reverse look up on an autoparts store catalog

but honestly before you go dropping a ton of dough on injectors know that they can be fully tested especially if you have a running car to put them in
they ohm test between 10.5 and 11.5 ohms and should make a nice crisp and clear click noise when u put a 9v battery to them. a slow click or no click is bad
and then if one is suspected to be bad unplug it. if no change in how the motor runs (CAUSE ITS NOT FIRING PLUGGED IN OR UNPLUGGED) then move that injector to a different cylinder and see if you get the same results when you unplug it in the different cylinder. if the motor runs unchanged again with the injector unplugged in a different cylinder then you know its bad otherwise it would be something else

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