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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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04-18-2012, 09:08 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Under the SEEEAAAAA
Age: 31
Posts: 12
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I am Exhausted, Electrical Problem inside.
Hi Guys, I just joined to unveil my problem to every major Nissan related board.
okay so here is the deal: I drive a 89 Nissan 200SX S13 with the typical EU-Spec CA18DET. This car has undergone rebuild until March 30th and then I drove it for a week. When I went into my Garage on (well yeah) Friday the 13th...*wink, wink* I noticed that all the Dashboard Lights and my TurboTimer were on, without the Key in the Lock. I recently dismantled my entire car from the Inside to get better access to the wiring loom. But I can not for the life of me find the damn error. The Dashboard lights have no reduced to the oil lamp which is constantly reading 12V when tested with a volt meter, the same thing is happening on 3 ports of the Light Switch and the Ignition wiring, everything else is totally dead. If the TT is on the battery function reads 9V even tho the battery is fully charged. Kinda weird is that at the S.M.J Plug the Cables (I think F11 and F12, which are Ignition and "fuses and circuit breakers) are also reading 12v EVEN if the Ignition Relay is NOT plugged in. I have exhausted almost every possibility over the last few days, including removing fuses, Ignition Lock wiring (that fat plug), new battery grounds, etc. etc. and I have no clue whats so ever . I can deliver pictures if needed. If anyone can, please help me. Thank you so much and greetings from Germany. |
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04-21-2012, 08:21 AM | #2 |
Leaky Injector
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Not familiar with EU CA18's in 200SX, but your problem most likely is occuring where the engine harness was spliced in to the original chassis during the swap.
I would look at all plugs that were spliced or modified. Maybe wiggle the plugs around the engine compartment while someone is watching to see if your dash lights "flicker." If you can get the lights to flicker while messing with it, you have found the area where the problem is. (The shorted wire to your ignition circuit) The lower battery voltage is due (of course) to you powering the system, as it thinks ignition is on. I would not focus on that, but on "what was touched" in the swap. |
04-21-2012, 08:49 AM | #3 |
Zilvia Junkie
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