Brake problems - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dream240 · 12-07-2004, 04:56 PM

Damn it...!!!! I just bought these rotors like a month ago!!! WTF!!! I'm just going to leave them on for now. It's weird cause sometimes I can't feel the vibration, and other times it's really bad. Weird.

I'll see if there's a local shop that can check them for me. Thanks for the help.

ledzeppelin240 · 12-07-2004, 07:59 PM

This is a very wierd problem, like usual its probably some little thing just scewing everything up, take it to a shop like you said and get them to check it over. Good luck, keep me posted on what you find.

XxJaPxOxNeEs23xX · 12-07-2004, 11:47 PM

actually if u machine the rotors it should be fine. unless the rotors are completely warped. i personally think its better if u machine the rotors if you are going to put new pads on. and also about your mushy pedal when you had your axiis or watever, its not the pads, you overheated the brake fluid.

driftyour40 · 12-08-2004, 04:44 AM

Well.. I’m gonna butt in... I read everything and I see a couple things that are just plain wrong and a few things that are common misconceptions.

First, tightening your wheels NEEDS to be done EVENLY. It's the difference in the tightness of the lug nuts that causes the rotors to warp when they heat up.

Second, IF the vibration is only when you are NOT APPLYING THE BRAKE it can still be a brake problem, but the warpage in the rotors would have to be severe. This is probably not what you are experiencing.

Brakes squealing is NOT from dirt, or brake dust.. It’s caused by vibration. Put anti-squeak slimy stuff on the back of the pads, when you have the rotors turned have the surface "nondirectionalized" (but a crosscut pattern on it) and take the sharp edges off of the brake pads (I use a grinder). Lube all of the sliding points with disk brake caliper grease (I like sta-lube's best). And then when you put everything back together, torque the wheels to 80 or 90 ft lbs in a STAR pattern so they are torqued evenly.

If you do this I’m betting you'll eliminate your vibration and your squeal..

IF you still have a problem with vibration, it won't be your brakes. And since you've already had the tires balanced and the alignment done (by the way, there is no part of an alignment that will change a vibration problem). Have the tires checked for separation. That is a VERY common problem that often gets missed or misdiagnosed.

-This all came from my mom not me. Just so you know she is and has been an ASC certified tech. for 17 years. So I would listen to what she has to say.

myleftlung · 12-09-2004, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dream240

Here's the thing, some guys say Axxis are good, and some say there crap. I one of the crappy guys. They might work good for you. But with my experience with both Axxis and Hawk, I'm going with hawk because of the squeaking issues and the fading.

Ride in a car with Hawk HP+, then we'll talk about squeal.

Dream240 · 12-09-2004, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myleftlung

Ride in a car with Hawk HP+, then we'll talk about squeal.

Uh...yeah I have, I used to RUN them. I switched to Axxis because I was stupid. So now I'm switching back. Liked the hawks better after trying both.

*sykikchimp* · 12-09-2004, 10:37 AM

Never had a problem with the ultimates, even during track events.

and as the other guy said.. mushy pedal means fluid boil, not pade fade. With pad fade the pedal remains hard, but you can't stop.

Another thing.. 300zx calipers are fixed calipers, and as such require everything on the spindle to be good, and straight. The hub face has a fairly small tolerance for irregular runout (flatness). If it is slightly no flat, you will ward rotors all the time. If you do get your rotors turned, make sure they do it "on car" so that they are flat in relation to the hub face. Otherwise they will just warp again.

Also check all the bushings on your car. Certain bushings if blown will cause weird shimmying under different tension such as braking, etc.

Also, here is an excellent article on "warping", and the myth of it...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Dream240 · 12-09-2004, 11:07 AM

Okay so here's my question, does anyone else have this problem? The vibration I mean. And if so how have you solved it? There was one mechanic that told me that it could be runout on the hub face. Is there a way to fix this, aside from getting new hubs? After all this info...I'm thinking it's the wheel torquing and possibly some hub runout that are causing this. I'm not going to get new rotors until I make sure the hubs are good. And no I'm not going to get them turned, just leave them on until I figure out what's causing this.

thanks alot guys. I'll keep you posted.

ledzeppelin240 · 12-09-2004, 10:46 PM

Finally someone put something up to shut down the "warped myth", that article also mentioned thickness variation which is what people think is warped rotors. Take it to a shop or get a dial indicator and check EVERYTHING for runout, hub, rotors, rims, tires. I gurantee something is off. Floating caliper assemblies take up slack like suspension. The fixed calipers don't however. Do you by any chance have a low pedal, or is it just mooshy.

Dream240 · 12-10-2004, 09:03 AM

no the pedal is fine, not low or mushy. I'm gonna take it to a brake shop next week see what's going on. Thanks for all your help.

12-07-2004, 04:56 PM	#31
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Damn it...!!!! I just bought these rotors like a month ago!!! WTF!!! I'm just going to leave them on for now. It's weird cause sometimes I can't feel the vibration, and other times it's really bad. Weird. I'll see if there's a local shop that can check them for me. Thanks for the help. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

12-07-2004, 07:59 PM	#32
ledzeppelin240 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Sinse Posts: 688 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	This is a very wierd problem, like usual its probably some little thing just scewing everything up, take it to a shop like you said and get them to check it over. Good luck, keep me posted on what you find. __________________ Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power. Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

12-09-2004, 10:37 AM	#37
sykikchimp WOW addicted Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: the moon Age: 40 Posts: 6,518 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Never had a problem with the ultimates, even during track events. and as the other guy said.. mushy pedal means fluid boil, not pade fade. With pad fade the pedal remains hard, but you can't stop. Another thing.. 300zx calipers are fixed calipers, and as such require everything on the spindle to be good, and straight. The hub face has a fairly small tolerance for irregular runout (flatness). If it is slightly no flat, you will ward rotors all the time. If you do get your rotors turned, make sure they do it "on car" so that they are flat in relation to the hub face. Otherwise they will just warp again. Also check all the bushings on your car. Certain bushings if blown will cause weird shimmying under different tension such as braking, etc. Also, here is an excellent article on "warping", and the myth of it... http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm __________________

12-09-2004, 11:07 AM	#38
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Okay so here's my question, does anyone else have this problem? The vibration I mean. And if so how have you solved it? There was one mechanic that told me that it could be runout on the hub face. Is there a way to fix this, aside from getting new hubs? After all this info...I'm thinking it's the wheel torquing and possibly some hub runout that are causing this. I'm not going to get new rotors until I make sure the hubs are good. And no I'm not going to get them turned, just leave them on until I figure out what's causing this. thanks alot guys. I'll keep you posted. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

12-09-2004, 10:46 PM	#39
ledzeppelin240 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Sinse Posts: 688 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Finally someone put something up to shut down the "warped myth", that article also mentioned thickness variation which is what people think is warped rotors. Take it to a shop or get a dial indicator and check EVERYTHING for runout, hub, rotors, rims, tires. I gurantee something is off. Floating caliper assemblies take up slack like suspension. The fixed calipers don't however. Do you by any chance have a low pedal, or is it just mooshy. __________________ Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power. Looking for: JDM S13 OEM Sideskirts

12-07-2004, 11:47 PM	#33
XxJaPxOxNeEs23xX Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: california Posts: 572 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	actually if u machine the rotors it should be fine. unless the rotors are completely warped. i personally think its better if u machine the rotors if you are going to put new pads on. and also about your mushy pedal when you had your axiis or watever, its not the pads, you overheated the brake fluid.

12-08-2004, 04:44 AM	#34
driftyour40 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: SoCal Age: 39 Posts: 644 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Well.. I’m gonna butt in... I read everything and I see a couple things that are just plain wrong and a few things that are common misconceptions. First, tightening your wheels NEEDS to be done EVENLY. It's the difference in the tightness of the lug nuts that causes the rotors to warp when they heat up. Second, IF the vibration is only when you are NOT APPLYING THE BRAKE it can still be a brake problem, but the warpage in the rotors would have to be severe. This is probably not what you are experiencing. Brakes squealing is NOT from dirt, or brake dust.. It’s caused by vibration. Put anti-squeak slimy stuff on the back of the pads, when you have the rotors turned have the surface "nondirectionalized" (but a crosscut pattern on it) and take the sharp edges off of the brake pads (I use a grinder). Lube all of the sliding points with disk brake caliper grease (I like sta-lube's best). And then when you put everything back together, torque the wheels to 80 or 90 ft lbs in a STAR pattern so they are torqued evenly. If you do this I’m betting you'll eliminate your vibration and your squeal.. IF you still have a problem with vibration, it won't be your brakes. And since you've already had the tires balanced and the alignment done (by the way, there is no part of an alignment that will change a vibration problem). Have the tires checked for separation. That is a VERY common problem that often gets missed or misdiagnosed. -This all came from my mom not me. Just so you know she is and has been an ASC certified tech. for 17 years. So I would listen to what she has to say.

12-10-2004, 09:03 AM	#40
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 42 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	no the pedal is fine, not low or mushy. I'm gonna take it to a brake shop next week see what's going on. Thanks for all your help. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

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