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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-09-2010, 01:35 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
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SLYDEurTYRE S14 Build...pic heavy
Rush Garage
So I traded my ek civic hatch for my current 1995 s14 in late 2009. I have always wanted a 240 and I finally have one after years of searching. This is my first and only 240sx. My pops has a 280z with 35k original miles. I have never done a full build or anything to this caliber or detail before so I may do things a little unorthadox but it has been turning out pretty decent so far... About a week after I traded my car, I was sitting at a stop sign and some kid thinkin hes speed racer came flying around the corner. He came through my lane and caught the front of my car on the side of his saturn. Afterwards, he admitted to the cop that he cut the corner to sharp, hit me and was speeding...when he talked to the insurance people, he said that I hit him. So for me sitting at a stop sign, I was awarded 40% of the fault because "I should have seen him coming." lol, ok. I roughly received around 1900 for the damages to my car...With that, I bought some new parts. Kouki front end APEXi GT Spec Exhaust Tein Basic Coilovers(will be changed...don't worry) Cusco Spin Knob So I put all of the above on. The kouki front had a shattered drivers headlight and a smashed up passenger fender from the previous owner sliding off the road and hitting a sewer. I ended up buying a fender from nissan(was not cheap even with my body shop discount) and a headlight off ebay. my buddies s2k in the back I put the exhaust on and replaced the old shitty thing that was supposedly called an exhaust system.lol. I also put the E-brake knob on. Didn't do to well since I changed my brake pads and noticed that my passenger ebrake cable was snapped... I also started gathering parts over the winter to install. Yamato Garage suspension parts JDM Kouki Grill I also got a Mishimoto Radiator My NRG Short Hub and Q/R with my Nardi/Fardi Suede Steering Wheel I ended up installing the steering wheel and the radiator. My buddies brother busted his radiator so I sold him my stock one and threw my new one on. After that stuff, I started on the rust and remodeling work. I had some mean rust underneath my back left drivers seat mount. I was going to try and keep the seat mount but I saw this so decided to get rid of it all After I cut it out... And then I began to bend some 16ga. steel up and started welding it in. Its not the best but it holds very well I put the seat in and marked where the mount needed to be. The new floor pan was almost the perfect height. I also picked up a new nut and welded it to a square of 16ga. Once I had the hole drilled, I threaded the nut on and welded the plate into position. I also have some rust on my rocker panel...which I cut out but haven't fixed yet.lol And the aftermath... By this time, I had found a good deal on an Origin Streamline Aero kit so I went ahead and picked it up. The front went on pretty well, the sides and back are a different story. I still need to finish them up. A little bit of cutting and fiberglass work...But I did get the new grill on for a sneek peek I also picked up some POR-15 rust preventative paint, marine clean and metal ready for the interior one finished. And here is my Greddy Type S BOV awaiting a turbo And some SS brake lines I picked up from AMS Motorsports for the cheap I know this is alot of pictures of parts but I am waiting on finishing up the body before putting the goodies on for the most part. I have been thinking of getting a steering quickener but haven't decided on it completely yet. I did manage to build my Power Brace tho... |
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07-09-2010, 01:35 PM | #2 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I started taking off all of the suspension parts, brakes and hubs for my new brake and hub setup
My EVO8 Big brakes and some extended studs for my fresh POR-15 painted hubs And after getting that stuff off, I found yet some more rust...Yay I decided to just go ahead and go all out...so I pulled my front end and starteed pulling the engine harness and all the little stuff to pull the motor. I also pulled all of the interior out to finish the sound deadening removal and stitch welding. Again, this is my first time so the stitch welds and everything isn't perfect but its going pretty well I think I finished all of the inside besides the firewall and the trunk. Once the motor is out, I will most likely be tubbing the front and I will stitch weld everything up there too. I pulled all of the wires out of the car. And was left with this... I will be doing a full tuck and fuse box relocation, battery in the back, full interior/exterior paint job, remove and redo undercoating, put good sound deadening back in and I am planning either a v8 or rb swap...This is all for today but I will update shortly.lol. thats just funny lookin Last edited by bllabong89; 07-21-2010 at 09:20 AM.. |
07-09-2010, 10:34 PM | #11 |
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Andrews, NC
Age: 32
Posts: 34
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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2jz > 1jz > RB all day.... lots of reasons why too. On the JZ engines, the turbo sits on passenger side, keeping your brake master cyl and clutch master away from the heat.
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07-10-2010, 02:04 AM | #13 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 7,666
Trader Rating: (63)
Feedback Score: 63 reviews
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Did you get the Brackets for your EVO brakes? depend on bracket, You might need bigger rotors than stock EVO size.. I have cross/drilled stcok EVO size rotors and I got the brackets from person from here zilvia. but calipers sit further than the way it should be..
I would say,,, at least 1/4" ? I am going to change brake pads soon, so I will post pics of uneven worn pads. |
07-12-2010, 08:36 AM | #19 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I will be selling them. I had them on a local forum for 250. A few people interested but no one with cash. I need to get some 17's or bigger for the new brakes.
I am def. not cutting corners. I have had cars that were cheaply built and after all the work of gettin this car, I will not do that to it. I bought this car with the intention of building a full drift car but its nice having a car that you love so I have decided to build it as a dd but reliable and capable enough to take to the track. That is the reason behind trying to fix every little issue from the beginning. I haven't fully decided on an engine yet but a buddy of mine has an lq4(ls2 with steel block) for 250 that needs heads that I may pick up. The one thing that I want to keep is my a/c. This is the first car I have had with it and I don't want to get rid of it now.lol Thanks for the kind words everyone. I will try to update as often as possible. As far as the car work over the weekend goes, I finished the stitch welding in the trunk with exception of a couple rust sections I have to fix. I will update with pics once I fine my SD Card. I also picked up a section of 1'x1' square tubing that I will be using to make my own fender brace. I was having some trouble with the sand I picked up from home depot for my sandblaster being to wet so I scattered it across my garage floor and put a fan on it so I will be updating with picks of that progress also. Sorry for all the words.lol |
07-12-2010, 01:35 PM | #20 |
Zilvia Junkie
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So as I have been sitting at my desk, bored like usual...I have been looking on youtube and other websites and two things came to my attention.
I found these that I want and will probally be getting when I get payed. The only thing that I am questioning is if I install these, can I eliminate my brake booster? I have never even thought of using these before but I think it would be good to have so please, let me know. I also found this on youtube under my recomendations... This is the eastwood powdercoating gun. I think I may pick this up to do my own small parts so I wont have to pay out the ass and can have things done on my time schedule. And last but not least, I found some pics of my old civic. It's not the best but it was a fun car to drive...Enjoi If anyone has any info on the brake/clutch pedal setup, please inform me |
07-12-2010, 01:44 PM | #21 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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if those pedals come with their own cylinder ( believe they do ) then yes you can eliminate ur BMC,.. as long as all lines are basically ran the same.
build is legit man,. i kno what its like,.....lol so if ya have any questions just ask
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cONtRol FReAkS |
07-12-2010, 08:57 PM | #23 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SOCAL
Age: 33
Posts: 342
Trader Rating: (19)
Feedback Score: 19 reviews
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everything your doing to the car is right, u wanna know where u killed it? going kouki front end. Should of kept it Zenki.
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They always go kouki or s15 front end. I say keep it G with the zenki |
07-12-2010, 09:12 PM | #24 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Age: 34
Posts: 266
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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I'll second that. But to each his own. Nothing looks more normal. I think the kouki doesn't match the body lines of rear of the car, just me.
Keep up the good work. Congratulations on having the cajones to get a rusty car and fix it. That's awesome. |
07-13-2010, 03:09 PM | #25 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yea, they have their own cylinders. I was just wondering if I could eliminate the brake booster(if thats what its called) with it because I want to clean up my bay and it looks alot cleaner with out that big ass round thing there.
Yea, I am more of a kouki guy. I just like how it looks angry. The zenki front just looks to much like an old grandmas car.lol |
07-19-2010, 11:17 AM | #26 |
Zilvia Junkie
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So I sold my turbo that I have had sitting around and I found some goodies on craigslist.
I got some Greddy Gracer side skirts for 100 with no cracks and painted to match(even tho I will most likely change my car color). The guys car that I got them from was the sickest "old folks gold" s14 I have seen. I hope my car looks as clean as his when I'm done. I also ran some sand thru the sand blaster and found that I will be buying actual abrasive blasting media because the fine grade sand I tried was not fine enough.lol On another note, I am finishing up the stitch welding and will start on my rear wire harness to eliminate and clean things up |
07-20-2010, 12:53 PM | #27 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Heres a little bit of an update. I worked on the trunk last night trying to finish up the stitch welding. I am almost done, not including the engine bay and firewall yet tho.
Here is some rust that I need to fix still And here is a pic of the passenger side after I finished all the welds up And here is the trunk stuff... I am going to try and teach my g/f how to fiberglass tonight when I start cutting into the rear bumper. My origin rear fits like poo so I need to cut both sides off and pull them in several inches. and again, if you are going to criticize on my stitch welding...be gentle.lol. This is the first time I have ever attempted it so hopefully its up to zilvia standards and thanks for reading |
07-20-2010, 01:12 PM | #28 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Age: 38
Posts: 9,006
Trader Rating: (106)
Feedback Score: 106 reviews
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On the stitch welding, you should weld little 1" long or so beads rather than spot welding. Really you just need to lay one of those little welds in between each factory weld.
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07-20-2010, 01:32 PM | #29 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yea, I tried to run beads like that but the metal was so thin that it would blow thru. I have a older century welder that only has wire speed and high and low mode and even with it on low, it would get to hot. Thats why I just decided to go with alot of spot welds
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