chiboy002

yeah yeah yeah OB, the worlds going to end next year anyways. I'll pollute all i want!

Its ok if i removed the line with the blue tape on it, connected to one of the PAIR inlets/outlets and then just hooked the charcoal canister one to that right? It has a T that goes under the throttle body to a hardline, and has a T that goes into the intake. I'm assuming its cool just wanted to make sure, in case its not

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street dancer.

Tantwoforty

Yeah if your not ka-t you will probably loose a bit of low end.
make sure if you disconnect them the valves stay open (i think they do)
or use a 14 upper manifold

chiboy002

shieeet yeah, i dont really care though lol, the minor stuff i've done will probably set me back to stock power

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street dancer.

MidwestMyriad

For an NA KA that will eventually be turbo, but right now has that EGR tube disconnected from the header, would you recommend using a block-off plate? Like the ones ISIS offers, since the system will be eliminated anyway.

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@MMyriad

Razi

Yeah, if it's disconnected, might as well remove the whole EGR system.
Makes the back of the intake manifold much neater.

Tantwoforty

Yeah. And as far as using the isis one idk if its necessary. Important on my phone so i don't feel like looking up prices but the ebay one works just fine. Its just a little plate. So you could possibly save a bit of cash there.
Again idk how much the isis one is. I just assume its a bit more.
If the tube is off anyway you really should block the whole thing to ensure no vaccumme leaks ect

oh i looked at the isis one, it looks like its cheap to.. so yeah yey for good prices on things.

MidwestMyriad

haha yeah and combined with the free shipping sale and 5% it was only like 13 bucks shipped. I'll be in touch through PM's from now on. Want to clean up my vacuum lines and will undoubtly have some questions. Thanks for the help so far, you'll be hearing from me.

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@MMyriad

hoffman240

so pretty much all ya need as a vacum line on a KA is the fuel psi regulator and everything else can be removed and capped thats how i grasp the idea.

Tantwoforty

pretty much yea.
and your bov and waste gate.

MidwestMyriad

So charcoal canister=useless, egr=useless, pair=useless, just make sure you have fuel pressure and your good to go for NAKA?

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@MMyriad

Tantwoforty

I used this today, very glad this kind of thing is avalble that's why I'm down to be blue, I totally forgot about this and i found it on Google !
I'm working on cleaning up my s14 fuel rail and maybe rerouting it so I'll post some pics of that

mitsuracer85

I know this is an old thread, but wanted to make sure if someone else reads the original post that they dont do something stupid... Don't connect the gas tank line to your intake or intake manifold unless you want to suck in straight gas fumes and have a ridiculously loud backfire sound about once a second while decelerating. Someone did this on my last car and it took me a year to finally find out what was causing it. I just plugged the line and had no issues after that. People didn't run for cover anymore either.

Bushido

The line that runs from your gas tank to the charcoal canister vents the gas tank. You can just cut the line and bend it so it faces toward the sky.

Gas will leak from this tube if your car flips over.

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Tantwoforty

Yeah I just cut mine near the firewall.
Dont worry about this being a old thread, I always check it and will reply to people and update it so feel free to post away with anything that may help or if you have any questions!

Correct.
(lol question form 2011)

Frank_Jaeger

You shouldn't plug that line. It should be vented, and filtered if you're paranoid.

mitsuracer85

I didn't plug the line connected to the gas tank. I meant to say I plugged the port on the throttle body that that line had been connected to.

shift_down

What I did with the hardline is followed it all the way back to the gas tank. It connects to a rubber hose that exits the gas tank through the bottom of the firewall. So you can actually remove the entire hardline and just let the rubber hose hang down. Put a breather on it if you are paranoid of anything getting in there though

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Ka24 t3/t04b + Z32MAF + 550 subys + Walbro 255 + enthalpy Tune + 91 octane

waxball88

Fwiw I had bad experiences with Isis egr block offs. Simply the best way to do it is get it welded shut for $20. Isis one leaked, flimsy easy to bend.
I'm ka-t I recommend
Weld egr
Weld runners
Cut off and weld TB coolant nipple on water neck
Bypass lower manifold and run both block lines to heater core.(makes manifold way more disassembly friendly)
Weld AN to iacv tube and use pushlocks

shift_down

I'll take this advice. I'm about to delete emissions soon.

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Ka24 t3/t04b + Z32MAF + 550 subys + Walbro 255 + enthalpy Tune + 91 octane

kamilitaryman

I removed all of my emissions crap too. Im in NY, as long as you're OBD1 you're gtg.

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400HP KA24DET in progress

shift_down

where is the barb coming from? is that where the original pcv box was? are you just venting to atmosphere?

Edit: just read your ka-t thread, nevermind on that question

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Ka24 t3/t04b + Z32MAF + 550 subys + Walbro 255 + enthalpy Tune + 91 octane

kamilitaryman

I took that pipe out as you can see in the very last photo. It was the vacuum pipe for the IACV and regulator. I will be using the left over hole from the regulator for a vacuum source. PCV box is still there running to a catch can.

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400HP KA24DET in progress

mikerbike

This isn't emissions stuff. Are you just using the TB adjustment to control idle? I guess I could go look for your thread.

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kamilitaryman

Actually, it is part of emissions. Anything related to gas mileage is also considered emissions.

But yes, to answer your question. I will be using the TB screw to adjust idle. Will have to hold the gas pedal down just a bit on cold startups too.

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400HP KA24DET in progress

mikerbike

I guess I assumed it was to control idle. My mistake.

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MasterOSkillio

I thought the egr helped with detonation, aside from emissions won't it decrease the engine life to remove it?

"EGR stands for exaust gas recirculation. The EGR valve opens at the appropriate time, usually on moderate acceleration to allow exaust gas to flow back into the combustion process through the intake manifold. It is a common myth that the reason is to "re-burn" exaust gas to use any remaining unburned fuel and improve gas mileage. Anybody who gives that explanation as to why they have an EGR valve, has no idea what he/she is talking about and probably should not be working on cars. Here is the real reason there is an EGR valve: Under certain conditions, esp when the engine is hot, fuel may actually burn too quickly, and thus not burn completely. In fact, spark knock or "ping" is caused by "pre-ignition detonation," the fuel actually ignites before the spark plug sparks. Pre-ignition detonation will cause an incomplete fuel burn, loss of power, bad gas mileage, and could even damage the engine internally. Under certain conditions you may want to slow the burn of the fuel, so that it is a more complete burn, and is at the right time. That is why you introduce exaust gases into the combustion process, to slow the fuel combustion just a little, so you can get a more complete burn, improve fuel efficiency, and reduce pre-ignition detonation."

From wikipedia:
In a typical automotive spark-ignited (SI) engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR. The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in poorly set up applications can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions. A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:
Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC (Top Dead-Center), rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is minor compared to the first two.
It also decreases the efficiency of gasoline engines via at least one more mechanism:
Reduced specific heat ratio. A lean intake charge has a higher specific heat ratio than an EGR mixture. A reduction of specific heat ratio reduces the amount of energy that can be extracted by the piston.
EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle. The EGR valve also cools the exhaust valves and makes them last far longer (a very important benefit under light cruise conditions).[citation needed]

Modern systems utilizing electronic engine control computers, multiple control inputs, and servo-driven EGR valves typically improve performance/efficiency with no impact on drivability.

shaggy sr

idc if this is an old thread. but dont remove all the three lines or your ka24 engine will choke up or shut down. just leave em on. thats my 2cent

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