Typical Roll Cage Pricing - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

stretch240sx · 02-09-2006, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

name the last drift car that rolled over

there are a bunch of drift cars the roll... like someone already pointed out about taka last FD season. and also watch the like 2nd vol of jdm option "crash kings" or whatever... iirc there are a few roll over crashes in there too.... with the way concrete barriers are made, its not uncommon for a rollover to occur... its just people get lucky... look at a lot of freeway crashes that involve hitting the center divide....

atom · 02-09-2006, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ISTOTOSAO

I am not being an ass but are you sure about this. Because FIA supersedes both SCCA and NASA. It would be news to me. Again I am not attacking you, just curious.

I read on a Scooby forum a while back that their Cusco CroMo cage is FIA-J approved. Whatever that is.

NekoPunch · 02-09-2006, 08:50 PM

Right. FIA is an international race sanctioning body which creates regulations and safety standards particularly for race series which span many nations, e.g. F1, WTCC, and WRC. They can also offer approval of a company's manufacturing process for safety equipment, e.g. welding, materials, etc. Since one particular rollbar will obviously not be approved for every kind of race out there, you'd need to contact Cusco for specific questions regarding whether a particular cage meets criteria for a particular racing series, whether FIA-certified or not. Obviously, for higher-level professional racing a pre-manufactured bolt-in cage will not pass muster regardless of who makes it.

SCCA and NASA on the other hand are local (i.e. US) autosports business-clubs. They put on club-level (amateur) solo and racing events, and they are not under the auspices of the FIA nor are they required to follow its guidelines. They have created their own safety regulations for their events, and that's why they can turn up their nose at anything that doesn't follow their criteria including rollcages and even vehicles produced in other countries. IMHO, the U.S. just likes to do things its own way in spite of what's going on in the rest of the world (see: metric system, Kyoto accord, U.N. resolutions, KA24, NASCAR, etc).

hattenDriftR1 · 02-09-2006, 09:49 PM

Call Monstor Fabrication and tell them Mario sent you.

626-857-9000.

Custom cages at a good price.

blu808 · 02-09-2006, 10:14 PM

Hey mario. Good to see you on these boards.

andrewmp6 · 02-10-2006, 01:29 AM

read this http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html dont say anywhere fia cert

Dousan_PG · 02-10-2006, 11:40 AM

i know a guy who got a cage at MONSTOR FAB

i wouldnt touch that shit w/ a 10 ft pole i can take pics too.
horrible cage.

Andrew Bohan · 02-10-2006, 01:10 PM

what all was wrong with it? shitty bends, shitty or incomplete welding, inconsistant fitment, out-of-spec tubing sizes, etc?

NekoPunch · 02-10-2006, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

read this http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html dont say anywhere fia cert

You have to go to the Japanese website. Cusco hardly puts anything on the English site.

Anyways to clarify, I wasn't trying to say "all Cusco cages are FIA certified." FIA doesn't slap their sticker on pre-manufactured cages. It doesn't work that way. But Cusco follows a lot of the common standards required by FIA and JAF, so contacting them would tell you which might meet requirements for a particular race (e.g. Safety21 works type may be a good candidate for N1/N2 enduro, etc).

Just PM me if you want to keep arguing. It's obvious nobody here agrees with you or wants to keep hearing about this topic.

Dousan_PG · 02-10-2006, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i'm driftaholic

what all was wrong with it? shitty bends, shitty or incomplete welding, inconsistant fitment, out-of-spec tubing sizes, etc?

off the top fo my head
the worst welding ever
horrible door bar (too high cut out the door which didndt hvae to do)
blew out his rear speakers (welding debree/sparks whatever)
worst welds
wrong piping iirc
and bad bends

overall a total pos.
we'll rip it out and redo it later

mine is going in this coming week thru garage works
6 point side beams and thru the dash on the front points.

g6civcx · 02-12-2006, 10:00 AM

You may want to keep in mind that for best results, the cage needs to come as close to the body as possible. That means you have to strip the interior or run a little gap between the body and the cage (which isn't ideal but is still doable).

Also keep in mind that ideally the main hoop will run as close to the B-pillar as possible. This means that you will lose your stock 3-point seatbelt. You can keep your 3-point but the main hoop won't be ideal if there is a little gap.

Not a big deal really if you have run harnesses, but it's going to bump up the price a little bit if you want the best design. And ideally weld-in is much better than bolt-in. Plus it's really important to determine where you mount the cage as these are the stress points. Put them on the floorboard and they'll go right through a rusty unreinforced floorboard.

A good shop should be able to weld in a standard 4-point that will pass SCCA tech inspection for low teens. Figure that if you want to run new seats and 5-point (or 6) harnesses and you're looking at around $2k for the pop.

If you look below at how the stock power seatbelt runs, the main hoop has to run as close as possible to that. So you'll have to rip out the motor and wiring.

lok · 02-12-2006, 10:18 AM

I have safety21 7 point bolt in. The backing plates are 6" square with 3 12mm bolt holes in each of them. The bars running up the pillars are mashing the foam covering all the way to tubing. The bar running across roof in the front is also pushing against the roof.

When I was installing the cage I had lay on my back and use my legs to push the bar up to mount it to the roll bar.

I am very happy with the rigidity the cage has added.

Here are a few shots of mine.

bboytou · 02-14-2006, 12:50 AM

Oh well...this is for the guy who started this post: I paid $22 grand for my roll cage. Jk! Actually did mine at Wyotech, West Sacramento. The material only cost me $230, but the timing was about two weeks. So ten days about 6 hours a day. A little long considering we the students sharing tools and this was my first roll cage. You can learn how to weld almost like a pro...see for yourself.
It's a 6 piont rollcage made with 1_1/2 DOM tubing. I read NHRA, SCCA, D1GP, and Formula D rule books carefully before starting this project. So I'm certain that my rollcage will pass inspections along with my welds.

bboytou · 02-14-2006, 01:06 AM

ahh! this sucks! I don't have enough space to show you guys my welds. I'll see what i can do in the next couple days.

Andrew Bohan · 02-14-2006, 01:13 AM

what is the advantage to having a "roof hoop" and "front bars" as opposed to "side-front bars" and a "upper windshield bar"

for imports i almost always see sides and upper windshield. every nascar i've seen has the roof hoop. what the advantages of each kind?

Flybert · 02-14-2006, 01:54 AM

I think the "roof hoop" or halo bar as most people call it allows you to tuck the cage up higher because you have a little more access to weld on the bottom of the hoop, rather then weld the windshield bar up and around the top. I'll be making my cage soon and I think I'll do a hoop for this reason.

02-09-2006, 08:50 PM	#33
NekoPunch Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 125 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Right. FIA is an international race sanctioning body which creates regulations and safety standards particularly for race series which span many nations, e.g. F1, WTCC, and WRC. They can also offer approval of a company's manufacturing process for safety equipment, e.g. welding, materials, etc. Since one particular rollbar will obviously not be approved for every kind of race out there, you'd need to contact Cusco for specific questions regarding whether a particular cage meets criteria for a particular racing series, whether FIA-certified or not. Obviously, for higher-level professional racing a pre-manufactured bolt-in cage will not pass muster regardless of who makes it. SCCA and NASA on the other hand are local (i.e. US) autosports business-clubs. They put on club-level (amateur) solo and racing events, and they are not under the auspices of the FIA nor are they required to follow its guidelines. They have created their own safety regulations for their events, and that's why they can turn up their nose at anything that doesn't follow their criteria including rollcages and even vehicles produced in other countries. IMHO, the U.S. just likes to do things its own way in spite of what's going on in the rest of the world (see: metric system, Kyoto accord, U.N. resolutions, KA24, NASCAR, etc). __________________ ----------- http://www.nekopunch.com

02-09-2006, 09:49 PM	#34
hattenDriftR1 Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: WSIR and The Strand Posts: 190 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Call Monstor Fabrication and tell them Mario sent you. 626-857-9000. Custom cages at a good price. __________________ www.themisadventuresofmario.com Instagram: mario__party

02-09-2006, 10:14 PM	#35
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Hey mario. Good to see you on these boards. __________________

02-10-2006, 11:40 AM	#37
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 42 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	i know a guy who got a cage at MONSTOR FAB i wouldnt touch that shit w/ a 10 ft pole i can take pics too. horrible cage. __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

02-12-2006, 10:18 AM	#42
lok Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 790 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	I have safety21 7 point bolt in. The backing plates are 6" square with 3 12mm bolt holes in each of them. The bars running up the pillars are mashing the foam covering all the way to tubing. The bar running across roof in the front is also pushing against the roof. When I was installing the cage I had lay on my back and use my legs to push the bar up to mount it to the roll bar. I am very happy with the rigidity the cage has added. Here are a few shots of mine. Last edited by lok; 02-12-2006 at 01:40 PM..

02-10-2006, 01:29 AM	#36
andrewmp6 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: kentucky Posts: 376 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	read this http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html dont say anywhere fia cert

02-10-2006, 01:10 PM	#38
Andrew Bohan Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Location: Location Posts: 8,330 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	what all was wrong with it? shitty bends, shitty or incomplete welding, inconsistant fitment, out-of-spec tubing sizes, etc?

02-12-2006, 10:00 AM	#41
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	You may want to keep in mind that for best results, the cage needs to come as close to the body as possible. That means you have to strip the interior or run a little gap between the body and the cage (which isn't ideal but is still doable). Also keep in mind that ideally the main hoop will run as close to the B-pillar as possible. This means that you will lose your stock 3-point seatbelt. You can keep your 3-point but the main hoop won't be ideal if there is a little gap. Not a big deal really if you have run harnesses, but it's going to bump up the price a little bit if you want the best design. And ideally weld-in is much better than bolt-in. Plus it's really important to determine where you mount the cage as these are the stress points. Put them on the floorboard and they'll go right through a rusty unreinforced floorboard. A good shop should be able to weld in a standard 4-point that will pass SCCA tech inspection for low teens. Figure that if you want to run new seats and 5-point (or 6) harnesses and you're looking at around $2k for the pop. If you look below at how the stock power seatbelt runs, the main hoop has to run as close as possible to that. So you'll have to rip out the motor and wiring.

02-14-2006, 01:06 AM	#44
bboytou Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Sacramento Posts: 16 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ahh! this sucks! I don't have enough space to show you guys my welds. I'll see what i can do in the next couple days.

02-14-2006, 01:13 AM	#45
Andrew Bohan Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Location: Location Posts: 8,330 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	what is the advantage to having a "roof hoop" and "front bars" as opposed to "side-front bars" and a "upper windshield bar" for imports i almost always see sides and upper windshield. every nascar i've seen has the roof hoop. what the advantages of each kind?

02-14-2006, 01:54 AM	#46
Flybert Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: none Posts: 3,862 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	I think the "roof hoop" or halo bar as most people call it allows you to tuck the cage up higher because you have a little more access to weld on the bottom of the hoop, rather then weld the windshield bar up and around the top. I'll be making my cage soon and I think I'll do a hoop for this reason.

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