Overheating Issue - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

ESmorz · 05-17-2008, 02:50 PM

Alright editing this so the new problem is at the top...

When I drive in gas saver mode or let the car idle, it will start to spike and over heat. If I throw some spirited driving in there and rail it, the temp goes down to normal and stays there.

Any ideas?

Sileighty_85 · 05-17-2008, 04:34 PM

Replace thermo, get a Nismo Thermo.
http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...product_id=266

water pumps dont really go bad just the seals (leaks)

be sure to properly bleed the system too

SleeperSx · 05-19-2008, 06:36 AM

Fuck Nizmo Thermo's, There over Priced garbage. Don't waste your money when you can go to the local parts store and get one for around 12-20$ Vs Nismo 80$+.

When running with the radiator cap off and it warms up, Can you see any flow in the radiator at all? If not then its either the thermo is stuck open or the water pump is not pumping. I would start with a thermo stat first and if that doesn/t fix it then move on to the more expensive part. Water pump. You shouldn't have to drive the car for it to get hot. If its going to get hot it will do it at idle. Also don't let it get above 215 degree's or else your going to warp that head and get a blowed head gasket.

mifesto · 05-19-2008, 09:08 AM

i can understand its overpriced but why do you say its garbage?

Sileighty_85 · 05-19-2008, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SleeperSx

Fuck Nizmo Thermo's, There over Priced garbage. Don't waste your money when you can go to the local parts store and get one for around 12-20$ Vs Nismo 80$+.

When running with the radiator cap off and it warms up, Can you see any flow in the radiator at all? If not then its either the thermo is stuck open or the water pump is not pumping. I would start with a thermo stat first and if that doesn/t fix it then move on to the more expensive part. Water pump. You shouldn't have to drive the car for it to get hot. If its going to get hot it will do it at idle. Also don't let it get above 215 degree's or else your going to warp that head and get a blowed head gasket.

If you look at the link i provided this Nismo Thermo is only 50 bucks they had a sale awhile back and got mine for 30 bucks.

I love mine, Before my temp would be around 86-92*C on a hot day
Now with my Nismo Thermo it never goes above 67*C unless I have the A/C running

Anyway..

If the Thermo is stuck open then his engine would not over heat and you would see the water flowing.
If it was stuck closed, (which it probably is or just not opening when it should) then his engine would over heat.

A water pump never stops pushing the coolant unless there is FOD inside the system and some how breaks the shaft or the bades, and the Blades on our water pumps are pretty damn beefy so i doubt that is what happend.

Remove and replace Thermostat
flush coolant
Fill
purge air
Enjoy

SleeperSx · 05-19-2008, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

If you look at the link i provided this Nismo Thermo is only 50 bucks they had a sale awhile back and got mine for 30 bucks.

I love mine, Before my temp would be around 86-92*C on a hot day
Now with my Nismo Thermo it never goes above 67*C unless I have the A/C running

Anyway..

If the Thermo is stuck open then his engine would not over heat and you would see the water flowing.
If it was stuck closed, (which it probably is or just not opening when it should) then his engine would over heat.

A water pump never stops pushing the coolant unless there is FOD inside the system and some how breaks the shaft or the bades, and the Blades on our water pumps are pretty damn beefy so i doubt that is what happend.

Remove and replace Thermostat
flush coolant
Fill
purge air
Enjoy

I meant stuck closed. My bad,

As for the thermo, My Rb one is 80$+ I was just throwing it out there. Either way 30-50$ is WAY TOO much.

Why is Nismo garbage? I just don't like any of there products. They seem to have a mis led rep with me.

I was going to buy a clutch slave from them a while back for my Rb trans since I couldn't find a good one. Found out the SAME clutch slave they were selling I could buy at Napa for 16$ Nismo's price 250$ IMO B.S and I will Never Ever Ever give them my business nor recommend them to anyone.

I agree with the water pump also, its not likely its bad, but I have seen a few that is. Thats why I suggested looking for the radiator flowing.

Also the car will overheat if the Thermo is stuck open. Should take a long time for the car to warm up and once it does its possible the radiator can't keep up and will cause it to overheat. But if this is the case you can check it by popping the cap while its cold. There should be NO coolant flowing while cold.

2_fast_240 · 05-19-2008, 11:25 AM

I agree with screw a nismo thermostat. If it works correctly, then your car will never get up to the proper operating temps. At least thats the way I see it.

And you say it has a "clicky gurgling sound". When exactly do you hear this? Are you sure you dont have any leaks? Does it build up good pressure? You shouldnt be able to squeeze the top radiator hose shut when its warmed up. If so, there is air in there, or you have a leak. And the water pump is bad about leaking around the seal too.

Sileighty_85 · 05-19-2008, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SleeperSx

I meant stuck closed. My bad,

As for the thermo, My Rb one is 80$+ I was just throwing it out there. Either way 30-50$ is WAY TOO much.

you gotta shop around/research
your RB Thermo- $40 here
http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...oduct_id=12076

Quote:

Originally Posted by SleeperSx

I was going to buy a clutch slave from them a while back for my Rb trans since I couldn't find a good one. Found out the SAME clutch slave they were selling I could buy at Napa for 16$ Nismo's price 250$ IMO B.S and I will Never Ever Ever give them my business nor recommend them to anyone.

its not a question of function but reliablity.
I use the Z32 slave from Napa on my SR and had 2 of them crap out already and im only using a stock clutch, im waiting to buy a Nismo when i get a chance.

I'll pay more for reliabilty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SleeperSx

Also the car will overheat if the Thermo is stuck open. Should take a long time for the car to warm up and once it does its possible the radiator can't keep up and will cause it to overheat. But if this is the case you can check it by popping the cap while its cold. There should be NO coolant flowing while cold.

why would it still over heat if cooler water is still flowing through the engine?
The reason why the engine over heats when the thermo is stuck closed is cuz the water in the engine is not flowing enough so it just chills there and get hotter

thats why lots of ppl pull the thermo out so there engine will run cooler

Mikey213 · 05-19-2008, 01:56 PM

What.are.the.cons.of.not.running.a.thermo.though?

LA_phantom_240 · 05-19-2008, 02:04 PM

I'm guessing you're at work and can't use the spacebar?

Anyway, if your engine runs too cool, it can cause premature wear from what I've been told. As the engine gets hot, the metal expands and such, and no expansion equals more wear on certain pieces such as rings. This is all just what I've been told, and I don't have any hard evidence or experience.

Sileighty_85 · 05-19-2008, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikey213

What.are.the.cons.of.not.running.a.thermo.though?

Quote:

Originally Posted by LA_phantom_240

I'm guessing you're at work and can't use the spacebar?

Nah its one of those:
You know you drive a 240SX when, your space bar breaks and cant afford a new one cuz all your money goes to your car.

J/K Mikey

SleeperSx · 05-19-2008, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

you gotta shop around/research
your RB Thermo- $40 here
http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...oduct_id=12076

its not a question of function but reliablity.
I use the Z32 slave from Napa on my SR and had 2 of them crap out already and im only using a stock clutch, im waiting to buy a Nismo when i get a chance.

I'll pay more for reliabilty.

why would it still over heat if cooler water is still flowing through the engine?
The reason why the engine over heats when the thermo is stuck closed is cuz the water in the engine is not flowing enough so it just chills there and get hotter

thats why lots of ppl pull the thermo out so there engine will run cooler

The one I looked at :

http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/nith.html

I have a twin plate Cusco Exedy Stage 4 clutch. I don't think a crappy Slave is going to cut it with this clutch. I have SS lines also. been using it for 6 months No problems, I do ALOT of drag racing also. So if it was going to break I think it would have. Ill save 234$ and buy another one if it decides to take a poop.

It would over heat b/c the water in the radiator would eventually get as hot as the engine block due too constant flow and cause over heating. I know b/c I use to run Without a thermo in my Rb, It was fine for a while but eventually would heat up, Especially after a few hard pulls.

ESmorz · 05-19-2008, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2_fast_240

And you say it has a "clicky gurgling sound". When exactly do you hear this? Are you sure you dont have any leaks? Does it build up good pressure? You shouldnt be able to squeeze the top radiator hose shut when its warmed up. If so, there is air in there, or you have a leak. And the water pump is bad about leaking around the seal too.

I hear it at idle and it seems to go away under throttle.

I'm pretty sure there are no leaks since I don't see any fluid and pressure seems to be good, it just seems coolant isn't flowing properly. I'm gonna go get a new thermo tomorrow when I have some free time. Crossing fingers that's it haha.

deuceforty · 05-20-2008, 12:02 AM

dont get an autozone thermo..

just get a nissan OEM thermo, those autozone/advance thermos are pieces of shit, and shit out for no reason....

you can hold a nissan OEM thermo next to a crappy one and the difference is easily visible...

as for the nismo being too cold and hurting your engine, if you look at a cooling diagram the thermo is placed at the end of the circuit, and only opens 10 degrees C earlier than an OEM, by the time that coolant gets back around its not "under temperature"

Mikey213 · 05-20-2008, 08:36 PM

I.have.a.new.nismo.thermostat.and.it.still.overhea ts.It.has.to.be.air.bubbles.in.the.system
I.ran.around.the.block(giant.parking.lot).a.few.ha rd.times.guage.was.way.past.hot.opened.hood.didn't .seem.to.hot.upper.hose.was.hot.lower.wasn't.No.bo iling.in.overflow.like.a.normal.overheat...so.mayb e.just./air.bubbles?
(Spacebar.is.broken,can't.even.play.starcraft.righ t!)
(lap.top.is.ok.but.gurl.is.always.on.it)
(and.yes.all.my.money.is.going.to.my.sexy.hatchi)

2_fast_240 · 05-23-2008, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ESmorz

I hear it at idle and it seems to go away under throttle.

I'm pretty sure there are no leaks since I don't see any fluid and pressure seems to be good, it just seems coolant isn't flowing properly. I'm gonna go get a new thermo tomorrow when I have some free time. Crossing fingers that's it haha.

Ever get your problem worked out? If not, I hate to say it, but you might want to do a compression test. My moms beamer kept having problems overheating. No noticable loss of power or drivability problems. But turned out it was a blown head gasket.

Also, replace your radiator cap since its cheap. I think they sell them with a built in pressure gauge at Advance. Or get a greddy one that bumps up the pressure a bit.

It can be very hard to get all the air out of the system too. That bleeder screw is you best friend here. Loosen it 'til its just barely in there and let the car idle for a while. I even took mine completly out and just let coolant/bubbles pour out some. Make sure your heater is open too.

Mikey213 · 05-23-2008, 08:16 PM

I didn't try to fix it today (bought a sexy bumper) i am tomarrow. Everything but my water pump is changed. I'm pretty sure there's just air in the system i just like freaking out and posting =0P. I'll jack the front of my car up with my bleeder and rad cap off and add more coolant/water till bubbles are gone and see if that was it.

infinitexsound · 05-24-2008, 01:51 AM

why dont u do it the right way when u fill ur radiator.....to bleed it the system from the screw on the mani........ or fill it with the radiator cap off and fill it when the thermostat pops open... and cap it.... i dont feel the need to spend more then 5 bucks for a thermostat... had my autozone one running for 5 years hasnt given me a problem... running no thermostat basically involves more time for your engine to warm up..... i prefer method #2 this basically tell me everything is working properly... might want to change ur waterpump... since you've replaced just about everything else in the cooling system...

if u get temp spikes.. that basically describes having air in ur coolant lines...

ESmorz · 05-25-2008, 05:51 PM

I replaced thermo and got an even faster temp spike.

So looks like another flush, to combat the possibility of air in the lines?

Mikey213 · 05-29-2008, 03:05 PM

IT'S.AIR!Just.bleed.the.air.out.=0)

Sileighty_85 · 05-29-2008, 06:01 PM

this works pretty well for me when bleeding my system
Once you flush the system

Turn on heater
in second gear go WOT till 6K then engine slow you down
do this 2 or 3 times and that should purge the air out

infinitexsound · 05-30-2008, 02:20 AM

thats alot of work..... to bleed air... ill just wait for the thermo to pop open... u can tell when it does, because suddenly the level will drop down and bubble...fill and cap....

ESmorz · 06-05-2008, 01:29 AM

Alright I replaced my water pump. Now it will overheat for like 20 seconds and when I rail it, it goes back down to normal and will stay there for the rest of the time...

infinitexsound · 06-05-2008, 02:11 AM

replace temp sensor...... then ur golden..... sweet ur so zilvia elite now...

ESmorz · 06-06-2008, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infinitexsound

replace temp sensor...... then ur golden..... sweet ur so zilvia elite now...

Already did when I replaced the pump.

Last few times I've run it there have been no temp fluctuations though. hmmm

ESmorz · 06-10-2008, 05:32 PM

It started back up again.

If I don't drive it fairly hard for a bit it will start to peak.

ESmorz · 06-11-2008, 07:39 PM

Any ideas yet, this making city driving a pain in the ass.

datsun510dude · 07-20-2008, 10:09 PM

Im going thru this once again in my car...replaced coolant temp sensor, thermo (twice), water pump, radiator and even installed an aftermarket gauge to keep a more specific eye on the temp.
ANYWAY, after a few hours of reading on this topic, I have noticed a few people trying these spill free funnels that attach to the radiator opening

http://www.twistingwrenches.com/inde...ducts_id=17407

for $20, I think ill give it a try!

I have also noticed a lot of people installing cheap ass thermostats from napa kregan autozone etc etc.....these thermostats are GARBAGE and tend to prematurely fail and/or stick. for comparison, i got a new oem thermo and replaced a 4 month old cheap autozone thermostat. You can CLEARLY tell the difference, oem one has a rubber seal and appears to be made a lot better with higher quality components.

s13tilldeath* · 07-28-2008, 06:36 PM

Unhook the thermo it will not overheat in idle anymore but it will still indecate if you over heat. i dont know why it does it but a freind tought me that. there is something about a 240 that is prone to over heat.

Ali 556 · 07-29-2008, 05:26 PM

I Was having the same proplem as you...werd over heating and with brand new thermo - water pump - sensor and i was still over heating....

So i Removed/deleted The T-stat and every thing is A-OK...now..

keep in mind that i live in a VERY HOT part of the world..EVERY day the out side temp goes up to 50*C = ~120*F....

And After Deleting the T-Stat...my car never over heat..but it take some time time to go to the normal operting temp...(only 1-2 min later)....

Setup :

2x E-fans (puller) (Auto ON @80*C) And Auto Off @75*C.
2x E-Fans (Pusher's From A Merceds-Benz S500) (not hooked up yet)
STOCK KA Rad.
STOCK EVERY thing else....

So Try And ! The T-stat and see what happen...

Hope This Help,

Regards,

Ali

05-17-2008, 02:50 PM	#1
ESmorz Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: It Looks Like A Dong Posts: 6,902 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Overheating Issue Alright editing this so the new problem is at the top... When I drive in gas saver mode or let the car idle, it will start to spike and over heat. If I throw some spirited driving in there and rail it, the temp goes down to normal and stays there. Any ideas? __________________ Last edited by ESmorz; 06-11-2008 at 07:39 PM..

05-19-2008, 11:25 AM	#7
2_fast_240 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Virginia Posts: 194 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I agree with screw a nismo thermostat. If it works correctly, then your car will never get up to the proper operating temps. At least thats the way I see it. And you say it has a "clicky gurgling sound". When exactly do you hear this? Are you sure you dont have any leaks? Does it build up good pressure? You shouldnt be able to squeeze the top radiator hose shut when its warmed up. If so, there is air in there, or you have a leak. And the water pump is bad about leaking around the seal too. __________________ '91 240sx hatch: ka-t t3/t04e '93 240sx coupe: stock dd

05-20-2008, 12:02 AM	#14
deuceforty Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: raleigh Age: 33 Posts: 907 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	dont get an autozone thermo.. just get a nissan OEM thermo, those autozone/advance thermos are pieces of shit, and shit out for no reason.... you can hold a nissan OEM thermo next to a crappy one and the difference is easily visible... as for the nismo being too cold and hurting your engine, if you look at a cooling diagram the thermo is placed at the end of the circuit, and only opens 10 degrees C earlier than an OEM, by the time that coolant gets back around its not "under temperature" __________________ TWO TONE COUPE FS NC

05-24-2008, 01:51 AM	#18
infinitexsound Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: INtraweb Age: 39 Posts: 3,522 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	why dont u do it the right way when u fill ur radiator.....to bleed it the system from the screw on the mani........ or fill it with the radiator cap off and fill it when the thermostat pops open... and cap it.... i dont feel the need to spend more then 5 bucks for a thermostat... had my autozone one running for 5 years hasnt given me a problem... running no thermostat basically involves more time for your engine to warm up..... i prefer method #2 this basically tell me everything is working properly... might want to change ur waterpump... since you've replaced just about everything else in the cooling system... if u get temp spikes.. that basically describes having air in ur coolant lines... __________________ S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way...

05-25-2008, 05:51 PM	#19
ESmorz Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: It Looks Like A Dong Posts: 6,902 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I replaced thermo and got an even faster temp spike. So looks like another flush, to combat the possibility of air in the lines? __________________

05-17-2008, 04:34 PM	#2
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Replace thermo, get a Nismo Thermo. http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...product_id=266 water pumps dont really go bad just the seals (leaks) be sure to properly bleed the system too __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

05-19-2008, 06:36 AM	#3
SleeperSx Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2008 Location: SpringTown Posts: 74 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Fuck Nizmo Thermo's, There over Priced garbage. Don't waste your money when you can go to the local parts store and get one for around 12-20$ Vs Nismo 80$+. When running with the radiator cap off and it warms up, Can you see any flow in the radiator at all? If not then its either the thermo is stuck open or the water pump is not pumping. I would start with a thermo stat first and if that doesn/t fix it then move on to the more expensive part. Water pump. You shouldn't have to drive the car for it to get hot. If its going to get hot it will do it at idle. Also don't let it get above 215 degree's or else your going to warp that head and get a blowed head gasket.

05-19-2008, 09:08 AM	#4
mifesto Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 209 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	i can understand its overpriced but why do you say its garbage?

05-19-2008, 01:56 PM	#9
Mikey213 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles Age: 35 Posts: 500 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	What.are.the.cons.of.not.running.a.thermo.though?

05-20-2008, 08:36 PM	#15
Mikey213 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles Age: 35 Posts: 500 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	I.have.a.new.nismo.thermostat.and.it.still.overhea ts.It.has.to.be.air.bubbles.in.the.system I.ran.around.the.block(giant.parking.lot).a.few.ha rd.times.guage.was.way.past.hot.opened.hood.didn't .seem.to.hot.upper.hose.was.hot.lower.wasn't.No.bo iling.in.overflow.like.a.normal.overheat...so.mayb e.just./air.bubbles? (Spacebar.is.broken,can't.even.play.starcraft.righ t!) (lap.top.is.ok.but.gurl.is.always.on.it) (and.yes.all.my.money.is.going.to.my.sexy.hatchi)

05-23-2008, 08:16 PM	#17
Mikey213 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles Age: 35 Posts: 500 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	I didn't try to fix it today (bought a sexy bumper) i am tomarrow. Everything but my water pump is changed. I'm pretty sure there's just air in the system i just like freaking out and posting =0P. I'll jack the front of my car up with my bleeder and rad cap off and add more coolant/water till bubbles are gone and see if that was it.

05-29-2008, 03:05 PM	#20
Mikey213 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Los Angeles Age: 35 Posts: 500 Trader Rating: (-1) Feedback Score: -1 reviews	IT'S.AIR!Just.bleed.the.air.out.=0)

05-29-2008, 06:01 PM	#21
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	this works pretty well for me when bleeding my system Once you flush the system Turn on heater in second gear go WOT till 6K then engine slow you down do this 2 or 3 times and that should purge the air out __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

05-30-2008, 02:20 AM	#22
infinitexsound Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: INtraweb Age: 39 Posts: 3,522 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	thats alot of work..... to bleed air... ill just wait for the thermo to pop open... u can tell when it does, because suddenly the level will drop down and bubble...fill and cap.... __________________ S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way...

06-05-2008, 01:29 AM	#23
ESmorz Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: It Looks Like A Dong Posts: 6,902 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Alright I replaced my water pump. Now it will overheat for like 20 seconds and when I rail it, it goes back down to normal and will stay there for the rest of the time... __________________

06-05-2008, 02:11 AM	#24
infinitexsound Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: INtraweb Age: 39 Posts: 3,522 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	replace temp sensor...... then ur golden..... sweet ur so zilvia elite now... __________________ S14 TrackSlut coming to a raceway near you... 510 TimeAttack on its way...

06-10-2008, 05:32 PM	#26
ESmorz Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: It Looks Like A Dong Posts: 6,902 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	It started back up again. If I don't drive it fairly hard for a bit it will start to peak. __________________

06-11-2008, 07:39 PM	#27
ESmorz Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: It Looks Like A Dong Posts: 6,902 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Any ideas yet, this making city driving a pain in the ass. __________________

07-20-2008, 10:09 PM	#28
datsun510dude Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: cali Posts: 95 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Im going thru this once again in my car...replaced coolant temp sensor, thermo (twice), water pump, radiator and even installed an aftermarket gauge to keep a more specific eye on the temp. ANYWAY, after a few hours of reading on this topic, I have noticed a few people trying these spill free funnels that attach to the radiator opening http://www.twistingwrenches.com/inde...ducts_id=17407 for $20, I think ill give it a try! I have also noticed a lot of people installing cheap ass thermostats from napa kregan autozone etc etc.....these thermostats are GARBAGE and tend to prematurely fail and/or stick. for comparison, i got a new oem thermo and replaced a 4 month old cheap autozone thermostat. You can CLEARLY tell the difference, oem one has a rubber seal and appears to be made a lot better with higher quality components.

07-28-2008, 06:36 PM	#29
s13tilldeath* Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Virginia Posts: 436 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Unhook the thermo it will not overheat in idle anymore but it will still indecate if you over heat. i dont know why it does it but a freind tought me that. there is something about a 240 that is prone to over heat.

07-29-2008, 05:26 PM	#30
Ali 556 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Far Far Away...... Posts: 359 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I Was having the same proplem as you...werd over heating and with brand new thermo - water pump - sensor and i was still over heating.... So i Removed/deleted The T-stat and every thing is A-OK...now.. keep in mind that i live in a VERY HOT part of the world..EVERY day the out side temp goes up to 50C = ~120F.... And After Deleting the T-Stat...my car never over heat..but it take some time time to go to the normal operting temp...(only 1-2 min later).... Setup : 2x E-fans (puller) (Auto ON @80C) And Auto Off @75C. 2x E-Fans (Pusher's From A Merceds-Benz S500) (not hooked up yet) STOCK KA Rad. STOCK EVERY thing else.... So Try And ! The T-stat and see what happen... Hope This Help, Regards, Ali __________________ '95 S14 Se With HKS's - BREMBO's - ES/SPL.

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