austintheginger

I don't even know how to start this without sounding stupid. I've bought this 95 240 with a rebuilt "10k on it" SR20 with a garret g35 turbo. It's got a list of internals and important shit thats been replaced in order for it to put "a bit over 400whp" but like most 240s, it's got some issues and hopefully I can get pointed toward the right direction to fix it. I understand most of what's going on in the motor, but I like to hear from others and make sure I'm "right" in my fixings, so please bear with me, otherwise just ignore this, no need for sarcasm or dickish remarks.

The previous owner didn't have a catch-can let alone a PCV valve/system so there's currently smoke blowing out of the top of the valve cover where there is 1. An open, non threaded hole close to the firewall, and 2. A hose barb in the middle drivers side. I ordered a catch-can and was going to plug the backside and run from the barb to the can, then can to the ground as I can't find where it should plug back into the intake. However as of today, instead of a little smoke coming out, there's mass amounts. The exhaust has also started to smoke while accelerating. The idle fluctuates to the point of shutting off, and there's a nasty, NASTY backfire coming out the exhaust. My first thought is the piston rings, why else would there be that much blowby? My next thought is because it likes to sputter and occasionally lose power in general is the plugs or coil-packs needs to be replaced. Whenever I brake, or turn, it lugs the motor, not sure what that has to do with anything but it needs to be fixed. There's probably some wiring issues I'm unaware of. There's also a knocking/rattling that he said was the VVT being wired in. Nonetheless I've got to fix this, yet need to sure what to fix. As soon as I can I'll do a compression test, and if I can, a leak-down. Any other thoughts or confirmations are greatly appreciated. I can post pictures of anything and soon. Again, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks and have a great day

austintheginger

List from the previous owner as to whats inside

Attached Images

Screenshot_20170125-174945.png (413.2 KB, 80 views)

SSJ-S15

That's a big ass turbo for an SR

austintheginger

It's currently running 18psi

jedi03

i agree on your original sentiments...check what plugs and compression look like...check injector function/fuel flow...timing...etc...get a baseline on where things stand...what tune does it have?

austintheginger

It has a "conservative" tune, doing a compression/leakdown today as well as checking the plugs and coils. Thanks for the help so far

austintheginger

How would I test the fuel injectors' functionality? It's got Xpurt 1000cc

Future240

What in the fuck would possess you to buy this car with these types of issues? When does that turbo hit full boost?


Take a video and post it up. may help people diagnose it.

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austintheginger

Car was running fine when I got it, turbo hits around 4000

S14kouki805

Pics of the engine bay would help

jedi03

put a measuring device below injectors and run them per youtube/googles suggestion...I know you power them

austintheginger

Compression readings
1 (closest to front) - 120
2- Nothing
3- 130
4 (firewall) - 70

S14kouki805

Not good...

S14kouki805

Was it a fellow Zilvia member?

1on1

^this. Seems like the engine is done and will need another rebuild. As for as a rebuild on the motor, all I see on the list is as follows:

Pistons, headgasket, and new lifters.

Compression is shit to add.

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di-devol

what injectors, what management, fuel pump?

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Kingtal0n

time to call mazworx and buy a built engine

then have someone reputable tune it

either that, or go back to a stock setup with a next stock engine.

S14kouki805

I want to know who the piece of shit that sold it to you is

austintheginger

I can't upload another picture to show the engine bay. Most if not all work/tuning was done by Alchemy Tuning of out Tampa/Clearwater FL. It's being run off of an AEM Standalone. The issue is I don't know exactly what's here as to specific parts since I didn't build it. But as to my current running issues, I've heard anything from blowing a hole in the piston, they're weisco if that matters, to a broken piston ring, to possibly just stuck valves, either way I've got to find out. Next step is taking the fenders and shit off so I can pull the motor out and see what's up. I'm thankful to have some great friends who are willing to assist in the disassembly. Any advice on the easiest way of removing the engine

1on1

upload on imgur to provide photos and I have to agreed with S14kouki805.

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rc1honda

Start by leaving the fenders on.

Drain all fluids

Remove the hot pipe and cold pipe.

Remove the radiator/fan setups

Remove power steering pump/you can leave the pump in the bay just tie it off

Remove throttle cable, and all vaccum lines.

Unplug all upper harness connections/grounds. I.e knock sensor/alternator plugs and grounds. Everything has to be disconnected.

Remove fuel lines from fuel rail

Zip tie as much shit outta the way as you can

Jack car up, place on stands.

Get under car and loosen the trans mounts/have bucket ready to catch trans fluid. You also my need to unbolt the drive shaft at the diff to remove the driveshaft from the trans.

Unplug all lower harness attachments. I.e starter power wire, speed sensors etc.

Remove clutch slave cyclinder and tie it off.

Remove down pipe.

I keep the mounts on the motor personally so here where I would remove the nut underneath the motor mounts

Go in car and remove center arm rest.

Remove shifter dust boot.

Remove shifter, don't lose the spring. Some people don't remove the shifter. I find it easier for the motor to come out smoothly with it off the trans. When the motor is out stuff shop rags in the shifter hole. You don't want shit getting in there.

Take car off jack stands

Jack front of car up

Put hoist in place and attach it to appropriate hoist points

Jack motor up slowly

Adjust chain as necessary

Motor out.


It's really not all the bad. The problem may be reassembly. Good thing is after you do this you will have a much better understanding of your car.

Where things go, what bolts where, and what plugs to what.

You can show any bolt on a s13 chassis and I could tell you where it goes now.

RalliartRsX

So who sold this to you or where did you get it from??

Also, see above for engine removal

austintheginger

[QUOTE=RalliartRsX;6165396]So who sold this to you or where did you get it from??

Don't want to call the guy out, 99% sure he's not a Zilvia member, if anything start haggling Alchemy Tuning: he's the one who built the car, guy I bought it from just drove it and is now shocked at the fact I "blew the motor"

I took the valve cover off last night in order to look at/feel (with a gauge) the valves to see if one wasn't sealing right or getting stuck. Anything specific to look for there in order to point this out? Thanks again for all the help guys

S14kouki805

[QUOTE=austintheginger;6165410]Based on your original post I can almost guarantee this dude is on Zilvia and must be put on blast. He's surprised YOU blew the engine? Fuck that blast that dude man. I mean don't get me wrong you fucked up too but dude knew what he was selling you. Live and learn I suppose, hard lesson learned.

Engmus

Never buy a modified car without a compression test, from a compression test tool you are familiar with. Not saying this to be spiteful but in case anyone ever comes across this. If the current owner refuses, say thanks and walk away.

RalliartRsX

The seller more than likely gave you a far from the truth story as quiet frankly, a built engine does not just drop compression on multiple cylinders without
1) The owner noticing
2) Bad tune or build (if it's event built)
3) You noticing
4) With all that power and money spent and he couldn't buy a $150 catch can setup??
5) Prior owner abusing the hell out of the car
6) Fill in the blank as to whatever devious reason

Considering your lack of knowledge on this particular platform, I am fairly sure he used this as leverage and sold you a vehicle that was already "blown up".

1) Are there any dyno sheets to "prove" this little over 400WHP claim??
2) Any receipts for all the parts list??
3) Any proof of tune?? Or dyno sheet from tune??
4) Any receipts from the shop build??
5) Did you contact the shop who built/tuned it to confirm it is indeed built??

People do not put on a GT35 to drive to the grocery store, so there is a very good chance you were sold a lemon. The seller took you for a ride

In my eyes, please let this community know who sold you the vehicle and do both us and yourself a disservice.

austintheginger

Bought the car off Craigslist. He sent me links of photos to his "build" so I'll link them next post. His name is Robert R -guy I bought it from. He's shipping out soon (why he's selling it) but the motor ran fine until about a week after I had it. Was it something wrong he knew about? Probably but of course he'll never admit it. Could I have just fucked up a good, well built car? Yes. Gotta deal with it nonetheless. What pistons, crankshafts, valves, camshafts, etc. do you guys recommend to hold up to the turbo? If I'm tearing my shit apart, I want to bring back a monster, but something as ironic as it'll be, something I can just drive down to the store in. I'm willing to compromise power for reliability, and I know in the end that compromise is near impossible to have as to reliability. But in theory, good parts, used right, should last, right?

austintheginger

Link to the build
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/5gzao4l3x...LGfeaAWUQGI1fa

austintheginger

My pictures since I've had the car, can upload more of anything necessary to help, just let me know
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m2t2x20r9...ieRi0OlHa?dl=0

RalliartRsX

Thanks for that. I would recommend removing his name actually due to legal reasons.........I thought he was a forum member

Now, the issue is, you have not torn down the engine yet to full diagnose what the problem is. If there is debris in the pickup for instance due to a spun bearing or even a piece of a piston ring or piston itself, there is a good chance either the bore, the crank or both have been damaged. Not necessarily beyond repair, but add that to the tally.

If you have dropped a valve, then that could be floating around in the bore causing unforeseen damage

If he has massive blow by (still not sure why he is not running a proper catch can), then the engine could have been built "loose" the rings not seated (although rings, if not seated within the first 1000 miles, the chance of then seating themselves at 10K is zero).

Too many questions to ask. You have the engine in your possession. It's time to remove the engine, place it on a stand and begin the tear down. It's amazing the things you find once this is done.

Good luck!