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Old 04-11-2011, 08:55 PM   #1
word sux
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Alignment question s13 (drift)

I was wonder what should whats a good starting point for caster. I am gonna play with it and figure out what I like so should I just set it at stock then bump it up from there?? I have hear 6.5 to 7 degree's is optimal for an s13.

any input?

the car has adj traction, toe, tension, and ruca's.

no bench racers please

Last edited by word sux; 04-12-2011 at 05:17 AM..
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:16 PM   #2
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you should make it match stock and then drive it to like pep boys or discount tire, firestone, really anywhere that does alignments
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:17 AM   #3
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Quote:
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you should make it match stock and then drive it to like pep boys or discount tire, firestone, really anywhere that does alignments

yea thats exactly what I am not going to do
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:19 AM   #4
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really

100+ views and no real answers??

Last edited by word sux; 04-14-2011 at 02:49 AM..
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:30 PM   #5
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caster +6-9 in my opinion with slight toe out about 1/8 inch and 3 degrees camber in the front. in the rear i would keep toe either zeroed or toe in a slight slight bit with 0-2 degrees of camber.
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:00 PM   #6
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Toe out in Front??? really?
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:14 PM   #7
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toe out looks cool DUH
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Toe out in Front??? really?
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:37 PM   #8
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Toe in the front a couple of inches so you never lose control. And then toe out the back just to balance out your whole setup. This well GREATLY help with keeping control during powerslides and help initiate drifts. Also positive camber is good camber. Shazam, that's my 2 cents. 2 cents worth millions.

Good luck. :]
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:45 AM   #9
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that sounds crazy but ok sure.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:53 AM   #10
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that sounds crazy but ok sure.
lol i was thinking the same but ill try it
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KOME View Post
Toe in the front a couple of inches so you never lose control. And then toe out the back just to balance out your whole setup. This well GREATLY help with keeping control during powerslides and help initiate drifts. Also positive camber is good camber. Shazam, that's my 2 cents. 2 cents worth millions.

Good luck. :]

thats sarcasm right? at least i hope it is
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:30 PM   #12
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wow....

how much power you putting down?

zero toe all around

half a degree to a full degree in the rear. as much neg camber in the front as you can get.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:50 PM   #13
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im running stock sr turbo elbow full dp and exhaust im hopefully making 200 whp running 6.5 degrees of caster 2.5 neg camber in front 1 degree toe out thne in the rear 1 degree toe in 1 degree of neg camber on 235 17 45 tires on all 4 corners
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:15 PM   #14
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frpont
3.5 camper
toe 0
caster 8

rear
camber -.5
toe 0
traction rod 10mm shorter then oem.

this is a alignment i got from a buddy who drives for a living... give it a go.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:47 PM   #15
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Wow, just wow.
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:01 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadstool View Post
frpont
3.5 camper
toe 0
caster 8

rear
camber -.5
toe 0
traction rod 10mm shorter then oem.

this is a alignment i got from a buddy who drives for a living... give it a go.
im going to end up using this setup
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:50 AM   #17
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Is that much negative camber really needed for.drifting?
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboticnissan View Post
Is that much negative camber really needed for.drifting?
I dont think so.
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:19 AM   #19
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this thread is pure win lol
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by word sux View Post
I was wonder what should whats a good starting point for caster. I am gonna play with it and figure out what I like so should I just set it at stock then bump it up from there?? I have hear 6.5 to 7 degree's is optimal for an s13.

any input?

the car has adj traction, toe, tension, and ruca's.

no bench racers please
I like that you specifically ask for no bench racers (which may be more educated than you)....Yet your gonna go play with it.....LOL

My 2 cents for a good "starting point" is taking it to a professional and possibly save the general public from injury...
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:34 AM   #21
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I ran stock street settings for about 3 or 4 years.
i only recently started messing with it a little.
But I just have my guy Adrian give me something between drift and street.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:51 PM   #22
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With increased caster you get increased camber under cornering so there is no need to have like 3 degrees of negative camber.
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboticnissan View Post
Is that much negative camber really needed for.drifting?
needing to drift, and drifting professional are two different questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericcastro View Post
I dont think so.
*think

You don't NEED any amount of camber/caster/toe settings to get a car to drift.

If you want a professional setup, I gave you one.

If you want to slide the car around, any setting will allow you to do that.

Letting the car drift easier, is what the alignment setting is going to do.

More camber in the rear= less contact patch= less traction/forward grip

More camber in the front=more contact patch under full lock=easier control mid drift

Toe is a touchy subject, and should only be used in competition, and I cannot give you a base for tuning that as power/ suspension mods/ ride height/ tire size and compound all effect what toe settings you should have. It's like asking for aero tips, but you aren't going to time your laps.


And even then, it's to some drivers preference. I prefer full tire contact at full lock vs dai looks like he's running minimal camber (which means better turn in, less contact at full lock, which allows for less friction coming from the front tires...it'll allow you to get more four wheel drift action/backwards driving/ cool drifting...down side is under full lock, the one with more contact patch gets better grip coming around a turn.

There is only so much rear traction being made at any given point.

so what was the question again? Oh yes...alignment specs. It's your preference/ what you want done. If you are looking for a base setup, anything will work. When you are starting to compete....that's when you want to start looking into go pro's and filming your suspension movements.
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:53 PM   #24
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0 camber front and rear. ( gotta be hella flush right?)
+5 toe front
4 caster

-5 toe rear

i work at auto zone guys , leave this thread to me.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fckillerbee View Post
needing to drift, and drifting professional are two different questions.



*think

You don't NEED any amount of camber/caster/toe settings to get a car to drift.

If you want a professional setup, I gave you one.

If you want to slide the car around, any setting will allow you to do that.

Letting the car drift easier, is what the alignment setting is going to do.

More camber in the rear= less contact patch= less traction/forward grip

More camber in the front=more contact patch under full lock=easier control mid drift

Toe is a touchy subject, and should only be used in competition, and I cannot give you a base for tuning that as power/ suspension mods/ ride height/ tire size and compound all effect what toe settings you should have. It's like asking for aero tips, but you aren't going to time your laps.


And even then, it's to some drivers preference. I prefer full tire contact at full lock vs dai looks like he's running minimal camber (which means better turn in, less contact at full lock, which allows for less friction coming from the front tires...it'll allow you to get more four wheel drift action/backwards driving/ cool drifting...down side is under full lock, the one with more contact patch gets better grip coming around a turn.

There is only so much rear traction being made at any given point.

so what was the question again? Oh yes...alignment specs. It's your preference/ what you want done. If you are looking for a base setup, anything will work. When you are starting to compete....that's when you want to start looking into go pro's and filming your suspension movements.
i know some people with higher power settings run very tiny toe in for foreward push.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktrash View Post
0 camber front and rear. ( gotta be hella flush right?)
+5 toe front
4 caster

-5 toe rear

i work at auto zone guys , leave this thread to me.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktrash View Post
0 camber front and rear. ( gotta be hella flush right?)
+5 toe front
4 caster

-5 toe rear

i work at auto zone guys , leave this thread to me.
i heard kragen guys were a bit smarter
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktrash View Post
0 camber front and rear. ( gotta be hella flush right?)
+5 toe front
4 caster

-5 toe rear

i work at auto zone guys , leave this thread to me.
I hope this doesn't break my car...
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:12 PM   #28
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Front
Toe 1/16 toe out
Camber -2.5*
Caster 6.5*

Rear
Toe 0
Camber 1.5
Thrust stock

Front camber should be set at whatever yields the most contact patch at lock.

Rear camber depends on setup as well. I have found that rear camber on a car can actually increase grip when the body rolls.

Caster is drivers preference.

Rear toe depends on power/tire setup.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:45 PM   #29
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Caster does affect the contact patch but for someone just starting to drift, it more importantly affects how the steering wheel returns imo. I like to chuck the steering wheel and feed it myself so a lower caster setting works better for me. Some people prefer to let go of the wheel and let the car transition itself. Of course there's other factors... camber/toe/tires

My setup is like..

Front
Camber -4
1/4 inch toe out
7ish caster

Rear
0 toe
-2 camber

It sucks... I need more grip
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:22 AM   #30
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When I was running the KA:

Front:
Camber: -5.5*
Toe: 0*
Caster: OEM

Rear:
Camber: -2.5*
Toe: -2.5*
Caster: LOL*

V8:
-5.5*
0*
9

-1.5*
0*
LOL
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