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Old 11-25-2014, 07:09 PM   #31
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Your head gasket is probably toast man.

Do not drive it like this. You could ruin the engine


Time to disassemble
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:20 PM   #32
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Then again, diagnosing over the internet is hard.

Do some research and double check everything you're doing. That your compression testing correctly, that your compression tester is actually accurate. That you used the radiator coolant test correctly etc.

Im pretty sure the hydrocarbon test should have turned the blue liquid yellow if your head gasket were indeed blown, but then again, the milky/creamy colored oil also points to head gasket.

Ive also read that a blown head gasket typically yields different compression results in different cylinders and not the same in all. Unless its just total shit..?
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:21 PM   #33
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I drained a couple ounces of oil and it looked like think hot chocolate! Definitely head gasket isn't it?
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:31 PM   #34
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I would bet it is.

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Old 11-25-2014, 07:32 PM   #35
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does it look like that?
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:33 PM   #36
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Yep it's toast
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:26 PM   #37
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No it's an even darker color! It's like someone put a lot of chocolate in it!
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:27 PM   #38
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Does this look like blown head gasket?
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:40 PM   #39
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Blown head gasket? That is 15 minutes after changing oil, drove about 5 miles to drop my girlfriend off
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:23 AM   #40
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Quote:
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Blown head gasket? That is 15 minutes after changing oil, drove about 5 miles to drop my girlfriend off
You have coolant and oil mixing. Typical culprit is the headgasket, but there are other areas that could cause the contamination. Start with the headgasket, it could probably use a refresh anyway.
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:13 PM   #41
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I did a napa oil text the one you send in to their lab, it said I have no coolant in my oil but there is milky stuff on parts of the top of my valve cover.... What in the wold could this be from?
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:19 AM   #42
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how are your pcv and oil catch can set up?
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:13 PM   #43
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No oil catch can, and pcv is stock I believe
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:14 PM   #44
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Also how do I loosen the cams porkers with rocker arm stoppers installed? I can't get a wrench around the hex part of the cam because f the rocker arm stoppers
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:36 PM   #45
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My pcv it T fitted into the line that runs across the firewall to where the brake fluid is and goes into the intake manifold
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:37 PM   #46
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Also where the pcv connects to the valve cover is where the milky ness is
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:11 PM   #47
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pcv is supposed to run to a vac line off of the intake manifold. do you have the stock catch can still plumbed in? reason I'm asking is that I had a friend that put a breather on his pcv valve and had the same issues that you had. he ended up with greenish residue in his aftermarket catch can also. here's a pic of how the stock system is setup.

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Old 12-10-2014, 05:47 PM   #48
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Yeah that oil cap pic is a solid sign that you are having issues with the head gasket.


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Old 12-10-2014, 06:19 PM   #49
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Also how do I set up vacuum/boost lines? I have a greddy intake manifold with two nipples on the bottom of it, and then I have the 3 nipples on my throttle body, I also have stock charcoal canister
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tristan89 View Post
I did a napa oil text the one you send in to their lab, it said I have no coolant in my oil but there is milky stuff on parts of the top of my valve cover.... What in the wold could this be from?
Hold up... BULLshit? Your condition is clearly oil and water/coolant mixing. How/where else is your oil going to be contaminated by water than from your cooling system...

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Old 12-10-2014, 07:50 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
Sounds like another excuse to me. Every car needs a thermostat to run properly, except say a drag car.
My friend, this part is right


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You don't efficiently cool the engine without one. The coolant needs time to stay in the radiator to dissipate heat.
This is a myth. Think about this, if the water is spending less time in the radiator then it is also spending less time in the engine.

Here is what I saw, this guy said his oil was milky. Do not run an engine with milky looking oil, period, I dont care how the water got in there.
What a mess. You cant just replace the headgasket and slap it back together in it, fill it, and run it now. that milky coating will remain on everything inside, its like whipped cream.
You can try the multiple oil change routine but... I have my suspicious thought that engine may spin a bearing if you arn't careful how you proceed. You will need that motor to hit 215*F+ and hold it there to try to force the water to all evaporate. You may need some kind of accessory vacuum pump to assist the pressure drop in the crank case to help the water evaporate. The problem is the oil is emulsified in it, that will be the challenge. Yes the more I think about it, the more I think you need to lower the pressure in your crankcase, even if the engine is off, to get that water out. Perhaps an overnight vacuum pump running at just a few psi with respect to the atmosphere. My best chemistry guess, someone else has any experience with this?
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:51 PM   #52
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coolant in oil is what your 1 picture appears to be change head gasket. but it seams you are having problems removing rockers off the head i have a hard time believing you will be able to replace the head gasket and install everything correctly to spec. just my 2cents if you don't know what your doing take it to a mechanic or be prepared to pay to teach yourself sometime you dont get it on your first try
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:02 PM   #53
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Shit..... Timing chain jumped two links, what do I do?
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:04 PM   #54
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coolant in oil is what your 1 picture appears to be change head gasket. but it seams you are having problems removing rockers off the head i have a hard time believing you will be able to replace the head gasket and install everything correctly to spec. just my 2cents if you don't know what your doing take it to a mechanic or be prepared to pay to teach yourself sometime you dont get it on your first try
Not having a hard time remove rockers, just following septs in the FSM and it says to loosen cam sprockets but I can't get a wrench on the hex of the cam with the rocker arm stoppers, I was wondering if I could remove the rocker arm stoppers before loosening the cam sprokets
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:02 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Not having a hard time remove rockers, just following septs in the FSM and it says to loosen cam sprockets but I can't get a wrench on the hex of the cam with the rocker arm stoppers, I was wondering if I could remove the rocker arm stoppers before loosening the cam sprokets
Yes, you have to remove rocker arm stoppers first.
Then put cam caps back on, and then use a wrench and ratchet/impact gun to lossen cam sprocket bolts.

REMOVE RAS FIRST!!!
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:52 AM   #56
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you dont need to loosen the camshaft sprockets to adjust the chain.

You just remove the tensioner and there will be plenty of slack in the chain to adjust.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:45 PM   #57
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I think the reason the HG blew was some of the coolant Chanel's were rusted shut on the HG so it creeped into the cylinders
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