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Old 01-12-2016, 04:37 PM   #1
SoundEfx
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SLOWEST rebuild of all time..... OF ALL TIME!!!!

Hi fellow 240 enthusiasts, this is where I will be documenting my 'rebuild', so to speak, of my 1995 240SX.

A little back ground. I owned another 1995 240SX with a boosted KA, but to bring that car up to my standards, it would have included some major body work which I cannot not do (explanation as to why is forth coming). That car did not have a matching intercooler piping (yes, every intercooler pipe was of a different diameter) and had wires and vacuum tubes running EVERYWHERE in the engine bay.

To add to that mess, it had some trunk and rear quarter panel damage. But at the time, it was a good buy. But I did a bad thing, I kept on looking to see if by chance another S14 would appear with a better body, and yes, one did and in the colour I wanted too.

So I bought it and sold the KA-T S14. Wished I could have kept both, but it didn't make much financial sense.

But this one, even though it has a decent, rust free body, was owned by younglings who, by the looks of the car, couldn't maintain a pet rock. The pictures will show you why I said that.

The reason why this build will be slower than molasses trying to flow in Antarctica is because I don't have a ton of money, a garage, friends to help
(they are NOT car peeps) or the time to have constant and regular updates even though my plan is to have a very simple stock S14 that simply looks good. No stance, or mad camber, or flares, or stupid wide rims or even rolling or pulling the fenders.

Anyway, on to the pictures that would explain what I am starting with.

Today was flush the coolant day, but just look at this 'SHYT!!!!'







I want to rebuild the engine with all new everything, but the funds or the knowledge are not there.

I will post other issues in another post because the car also has to be 'de-riced' as well....lol
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Old 01-16-2016, 02:11 PM   #2
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So onto interior pics to show you all what I have to de-rice:







And I guess the previous owner did a little de-ricing too because it actually had a hood scoop:



So I'm always on the hunt to black interior pieces.

Also, the trunk latch doesn't work, so if anyone can tell me which lever I have to pull/push from inside the trunk to get it open, it would be appreciated.
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Old 01-16-2016, 02:41 PM   #3
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text me 9792366891
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Old 01-16-2016, 02:51 PM   #4
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text me 9792366891
I did. It was concerning the coilovers but if you have other interior parts for a good price, let me know.
Unfortunately I have so many things to do on the car, that I can't spend a fortune on any one thing.
Why?
Because I'm not a baller like the pimps on here....lol

Another thing I have to add to the list might be a new rack because my power steering is leaking from some where.
I still have to determine that, but not having access to a lift isn't helping.
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Old 01-16-2016, 03:03 PM   #5
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I'll make this post the list of things that I need jus in case someone is selling them for a decent price. Keep in mind that I'm not a cheap, low-ballin' person, but at the same time, I'm not a baller....lol

Due to the rust and not having rebuild money:
Radiator (for an auto)
water pump

Interior:
Black interior door pieces
Interior door handles
Driver side window switches
Radio bezel
Trunk latch.

Exterior/Suspension:
Coilovers
Rims

Hopefully that list decreases over time....
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Old 01-26-2016, 03:38 PM   #6
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While doing more digging into the car, I noticed this:





I know it's dirty, but can someone tell me how the hell can the gas spout be pushed up like that and if they have ever seen anything like that before?
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:13 AM   #7
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Also, does anyone have any idea how to remove paint from the plastic interior trims?

I would try to buy new ones, but they are getting harder to find and some of them are simply over priced.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:02 PM   #8
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Also, does anyone have any idea how to remove paint from the plastic interior trims?

I would try to buy new ones, but they are getting harder to find and some of them are simply over priced.
I have had good luck with a plastic paint stripper. I can't remember the brand name but I picked it up at the local auto body paint supply store. Worked like a dream.
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:14 PM   #9
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I have had good luck with a plastic paint stripper. I can't remember the brand name but I picked it up at the local auto body paint supply store. Worked like a dream.
Thanks man, you're a life saver. Now I have to see if I could find one locally.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:28 PM   #10
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Brake fluid will remove paint safely from plastic as well
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:50 PM   #11
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Brake fluid will remove paint safely from plastic as well
Thanks. I will try that when I get home.
I thought about that, but I was worried about it deforming the plastic in some way.
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:22 AM   #12
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Ok, I tried the brake fluid method to remove the paint on the plastic trim and it didn't budge.
So that has me questioning the condition of the brake fluid and what paint was actually used because what ever it is, it is damn GOOD.

So back to the drawing board.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:06 AM   #13
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Another question.
The trunk doesn't open from the outside and the interior trunk lever can't open it either. When I bought it, the previous owner went into the trunk via the back seat and opened it by moving a lever.

Can someone tell me what that lever might be because I can't remember which one it is and I really want to get the trunk fixed?

Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2016, 12:11 PM   #14
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Aright, I got some rim measurements done this is my conclusion in terms of rim and tire fitment WITHOUT any rolling or pulling of the fenders.

Front rim: 17 x 8 +25 offset
Front tire: 225 - 45

Rear rim: 17 x 9 +25 offset
Rear tire: 255 - 40

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

One a suspension note, I bought some coilovers yesterday and will be putting them on either this weekend or sometimes next week. I unfortunately went cheap, but as I said earlier, I just want the car rolling for now, so they will have to do.

I don't think that the coilovers would make much of a difference in the rim measurements but we'll see.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:12 AM   #15
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I have a question. What the hell is this and is it needed:


It was attached here:


The reason why I ask is because the replacement bezel does not have the bracket to hold it:


HELP please!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:44 AM   #16
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Its for your cigarette lighter illumination ring.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:50 AM   #17
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Thanks man.

I can't believe this, but I am actually hating the previous owners even more. I really didn't think it was possible.

Because the front is painted, I thought it should have been part of the bezel (facepalm).
Now I have to find out how to remove that piece without breaking it.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:56 AM   #18
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Well I got it out and I'm too late, it's already cracked....
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:20 PM   #19
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It was more than likely going to crack no matter how gentle you were with.

Go to the dealership and order another one. No more than $5 brand new.
Part #25339-79984
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:34 PM   #20
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Wait, a cheap part from a dealership? Are pigs flying outside right now? lol

Thanks man, I will def. pick that up.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/2533979984
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:11 PM   #21
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More small boring updates.

The interior went from this:


To this:


I also installed these coilovers (I only have pics of the front for some reason):


I decided to test fit an old rim I had laying around and found the perfect fit for the front (18x8 et35):




But I wasn't all smiles. I tried taking off the bad tint and this happened:






What you see is NOT, I repeat, NOT the glue. From what I read, it seems as if tint has two layers and this is the under layer that is a pain to remove.
I have tried goo-gone, paint stripper, rubbing alcohol and it will not come off. I think that due to the lack of heat might be the reason why.

Anyway, back to the grind.
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:17 PM   #22
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Acetone and a razor blade
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:17 PM   #23
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This is part of my previous post that I have to update. What is in red is what I no longer need.

Damn this 'build' is slow...

Due to the rust and not having rebuild money:
Radiator (for an auto)
water pump

Interior:
Black interior door pieces
Interior door handles
Driver side window switches
Radio bezel
Trunk latch

Exterior/Suspension:
Coilovers
Rims
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:20 PM   #24
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Acetone and a razor blade
I've heard that and it's on the list.
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:10 PM   #25
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Due to the rust and not having rebuild money:
Radiator (for an auto)

Interior:
Black interior door pieces
Interior door handles
Trunk latch

Exterior/Suspension:
Coilovers
Rims



msg me i can help you out on these parts....
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:17 PM   #26
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When I have some more money, I'll let you know because from the interior pieces I bought, it seems everything for the S chassis is not cheap.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:28 PM   #27
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Ammonia and a ice scraper work very well especially on the rear glass. A razor blade will mess up the defrost lines.
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Ammonia and a ice scraper work very well especially on the rear glass. A razor blade will mess up the defrost lines.
Yeh, there was no way I was going to use a razor blade on the rear glass. So I'm searching for the right chemical to make it 'fall off'.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:17 PM   #29
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I've always used a cheap fabric steamer. You'd be surprised how well it works. The heat from it basically pulls up on the leftover tint and you can use a microfiber towel wipe/scrub it off
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:08 PM   #30
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I thought about and heard of that working, but why would a steamer work and not a heat gun?

I'm not doubting, just thinking aloud because I really don't want to have to buy a steamer for this one time stupid use.

Thanks for the input as I might have to try that.
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