poshatch

ok, soo i havnt been on this forum much, but i thought id come over here and see if i could get more insight into my questions

im sure that posting my suspension set up would help to point me in the right direction

coilovers: tein HE winding masters, 9kg front 7kg rear 24 way dampening
adj. front tension rods: 6.4*? (stock caster, but will be increasing to roughly 7...once i get the lca's in a week) front toe is oem spec i think its slightly possitive, and -2.5* degrees camber
no front sway bar
rear subframe poly inserts and collars
adj. rear traction (unset, probably stock setting, dont know what this affects, i would like to know if this makes a difference for drifting vesus grip??)
adj. rear toe (0 toe)
adj. rear upper (-2.5 camber)
rear sway bar taken out (but has poly bushings and stock ends as well as the fronts)
front and rear strut tower bracing
front z32 brake upgrade with 1" master cylinder (will be increasing rear rotors to 11.5" when i get the rest of the info on the swap)
16x8 xxr 002 (=0 offset with 7mm spacer) all around with yokohama parada spec II 205-45-16 on roughly 55 psi (pretty soft and grippy)
j30 vlsd

now i had a question inside my set up so i guess ill say it here:

1. what would tensioning or loosening (longer or shorter) tension rod do for grip versus drift? i believe its as close as i could get it to stock length

2. i know that weight distrubution is important to cornering balance and neutral steer, but im trying to see if i can dial in the car (dampening) to be more neutral for grip set up and i basically got my drift setup but needs some fine tuning

thanks everybody

fckillerbee

just so you get a better idea...every car, and every driver, and every line, and every course is different.

with that said....only question 1 is worthy, as question 2, can't be answered online. Because corner balancing a car, is weight, and dampening, is something completely different.

Before you play with dampening to "increase grip" you should just get wider tires/ stickier tires.

PoorMans180SX

Do a little research on Caster, as that's the only thing the tension rods really affect with their length.

For the second question, it's basically trial and error man. Get out there, mess with the damping on your coils, and swapping sway bars. Leave it how you like it.

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poshatch

oh snap! i didnt mean tension rod, haha i mean traction rod, in the rear

i understand what the other arms do just unsure about that one

and im trying to learn on the tires i have now and then increase from there once i get more experience

yokohama parada spec IIs are pretty grippy though

yeah im waiting on my first autocross event to adjust, gonna run no sway bars but bring them in case i need stability

and start on 3/4 stiff and go from there

i think adjusting dampening goes something like....

understeer...stiffen front
oversteer...soften rear

something like that

im gonna just go from there and hopefull by the end of the day i will be shavin down the times

PoorMans180SX

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/300886...tion-rods.html

I found that thread for you. Please search next time.

Another good one is: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725...on-thread.html

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Silverbullet

there is much more to it than that. Their primary function in racing is to control the rate of rolling. They are useful for tuning corner entry response.

The OP really needs to get a roll bar. They came with one from the factory, why take it off? It'll work for just sliding around, but if he wants any type of handling performance out of the car, it is all sorts of messed up.

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fckillerbee

what????....stiff front and soft rear will give the car the same charecteristics. soft rear (grippy rear)stiff front (understeer....more grip in the rear still)

You need someone to be at a track with you...walking you through this.

this thread is going no where...super fucking fast.

mmdb

Go here...

West Texas Region SCCA - Car setup guide

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poshatch

pefecto thanks