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Old 09-04-2013, 02:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zohan View Post
In your opinion, do you think a stock low mile KA needs internals to handle 300hp on a good tune?
You can do it, it's just the reliability may go out the window.

To me its almost confusing when people say one engine is more reliable than another... If you build an engine properly and do all your measurements and right adjustments it will be perfectly fine.

The block of the ka is nice since its cast iron. Cast iron blocks usually do awesome and hold just about what ever you throw at them.

They may be heavier than most but you dont have to worry about it much.

Also the ka in my opinion is a fun engine, i have a single cam . N-A its slow slow... but the engine itself almost seems like it was designed for boost. Its compression ratio at 8.5:1 is ideal for any boost application on normal gas ( not e85 ).

In general when ever your boosting an engine thats originally n-a your instantly altering its original operating conditions. So your making the head go from constant vacuum like its usually designed for to boost. which can make things very stressful for it.

However i personally do not feel its much of an issue for the KA, even though its a ( truck engine ) its tough. And the torque is really expressed when boost is involved.

When i built and boosted my ka the torque was extremely satisfying and fun. Also super easy to break the wheels loose, literally soon as the wheels are spinning you can feather the gas with out bogging which is nice and make it require less foot and shift knob work. just give it gas and have fun.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:32 PM   #32
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whoa whoa whoa! Torque steer in your 240? Do you you know what torque steer is? Before you go for a ride in anything go do some reading because your safety is more important than any car. You sound like you are new to cars but I could be wrong.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:38 PM   #33
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more power is compensation for less driving skills which is why my new buddy is my hx35 and 1000cc injectors not to mention my newest buddy nistune.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:39 PM   #34
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OP, your 240 does NOT torque steer.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz View Post
You can do it, it's just the reliability may go out the window.

To me its almost confusing when people say one engine is more reliable than another... If you build an engine properly and do all your measurements and right adjustments it will be perfectly fine.

The block of the ka is nice since its cast iron. Cast iron blocks usually do awesome and hold just about what ever you throw at them.

They may be heavier than most but you dont have to worry about it much.

Also the ka in my opinion is a fun engine, i have a single cam . N-A its slow slow... but the engine itself almost seems like it was designed for boost. Its compression ratio at 8.5:1 is ideal for any boost application on normal gas ( not e85 ).

In general when ever your boosting an engine thats originally n-a your instantly altering its original operating conditions. So your making the head go from constant vacuum like its usually designed for to boost. which can make things very stressful for it.

However i personally do not feel its much of an issue for the KA, even though its a ( truck engine ) its tough. And the torque is really expressed when boost is involved.

When i built and boosted my ka the torque was extremely satisfying and fun. Also super easy to break the wheels loose, literally soon as the wheels are spinning you can feather the gas with out bogging which is nice and make it require less foot and shift knob work. just give it gas and have fun.
You seriously cant prefer a ka-t over say a 2j, really?
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zohan View Post
So I hear a lot of people saying how different it is driving a 230hp car vs. 500+ hp car and I would not doubt it,!
Those people are morons, especially if ware talking about turbo cars. Learn to drive, use proper size tires, not 195's stretched over 19x20" wheels rocking 580-degrees camber
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:40 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by ZX88 View Post
you dont need that kind of power in a 240. around 300 is perfect.
Perfectly fucking slow.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz View Post
Like someone mentioned everyone just wants to skip actually trying to build an awesome KA and just swap in an SR,RB,2jz etc. If you build an engine correctly you can squeeze some awesome power out of it.
Stupid people learn from their mistakes - smart ones learn from other peoples mistakes.

Why waste time, money and effort to build a KA-T only to then regret not going to an actual platform that will support healthier power and torque levels. By going LS/JZ you are not only going to get a bigger displacement engine, with a larger aftermarket, you are also gaining significantly stronger transmissions in both cases.

Instead of focusing on "learning to drift" the real goal should just be "learn to drive", and you can do that in anything if you start going to autocross events and taking instruction. Awesome drivers can drift - awesome drifters can't necessarily drive.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostSlideWayz View Post
You can do it, it's just the reliability may go out the window.

To me its almost confusing when people say one engine is more reliable than another... If you build an engine properly and do all your measurements and right adjustments it will be perfectly fine.

The block of the ka is nice since its cast iron. Cast iron blocks usually do awesome and hold just about what ever you throw at them.

They may be heavier than most but you dont have to worry about it much.
Please stop spreading miss information.

Block strength actually has very little to do with if it's "iron or aluminum" and a lot more to do with the actual design, webbing and alloy content of that iron or aluminum.

This breed of iron block is known to go "pop" at 400whp because of it's weak sauce alloy content. Race versions with more webbing and graphite added live long and proudly over 800whp.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zohan View Post
So true as well, everyone wants crazy high hp cars, I'd be happy to get around 300 with my Ka. I'd like to one day tune in the suspension as well, but as a youngster on a budget, I just want a reliable smooth build to kick me back in my seat sometimes, yet controllable drifting on the street or track, nothing over 4-5k in total
You have the same horsepower as a factory new Toyota Camry or a V6 Mustang. 700-900hp is "high horsepower".
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:05 PM   #41
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Holy quintuple post Corbic!!!



That might be a new record or something...
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
Regardless, I would build the suspension first. Build a car with suspension and a motor you can "outdrive" instead of a car with a crapload of power you don't even know what to do with.
Disagree. Part of what makes driving a particular car fun is that "omfg it's gonna get away from me feel". If you've ever beat on an old muscle car you know exactly want I'm talking about. There is a lot of drama behind an old Cobra Jet or SS... and your white knuckled the whole way... only to realize you just ran 14.6.

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Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
You leave yourself the possibility to improve your driving with your suspension fully addressed. Here's how it could go:
Blah bla blah. If he was going to be a race car drive he'd been driving karts since he was 3. You can buy a stock Geo Prism and "Become a better drive". That requires training and wheel time - not mods and set ups.

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Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
1. You build the motor all out with like 400hp and don't really touch the suspension besides coilovers. Let's say you go to the track (does'nt matter how you race) but you might lose control because you never adjusted your suspension to how you will drive. You might crash and say goodbye to your 240 minus the motor if you can salvage it and the 3 wheels that didnt get destroyed.
Thank you, the internet is now dumber.

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Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
2. Start from the ground up like how everyone says. I thought I could build a motor and worry about suspension later. I was wrong. There is a lot down there that you can make better. Believe me, you can go apeshit with spending money on stuff down there.
I'm getting close to finishing up only my Rear suspension and I already have over 2 grand out back with a stock differential not counting coilovers. I still have the front to do.
Down where, what the fuck are you even talking about. Spend money, or waste money? I see a lot of kids that waste a lot of money to make their cars ride like shit and then think they have race cars.

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Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
I know there are plenty of people who can swap in a junkyard v8 for under 2 grand.
And be making 190whp... what is your point?


Quote:
Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
You can always find a motor. Do the motor last if you already have your ka or sr running properly.
You can always find suspension...

Quote:
Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
I would recommend you
-google some suspension basics threads, roll center thread here is very informative
-I see that your sig says your car is low, search for the SPL parts geometry correction pdf on their site, splparts.com
-Look into getting an aluminum steering bushing
-isis rear arm package is like $400, it's a good start to learning how to adjust all the settings to where you want it. If you crash, you won't feel too bad about it versus crashing with $1200+ arms.
-traction arms you don't need yet
-buy good tires
- I hope you have a good BMC to go with the wilwoods
How does any of that make him a "Better drive". If anything it just means he's going to forget to torque down a CA or forget to bleed his brakes and crash. There is nothing wrong with the factory alignment specs. There is nothing wrong with the factory brakes and some quality brake pads. You will lock your front brakes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
I was also broke early last year and now I'm going full on retard with my 240. Be patient, spend money where you need to once you finally understand that you need to spend it on the suspension and not a 600hp ls1.
Is that the $2k engine your friend can swap?


Quote:
Originally Posted by collegekid View Post
Simply put, the difference between 500hp 240's and 500hp corvettes is that from the factory, the corvette was built to handle the power and keep you going in the right direction. The 240sx was built for the middle aged woman back in the day.
You're a fucking idiot. The S13 was a top-class performance car with ultra modern suspension for it's time. There was not much else out there that was better. A GTR and a 300ZX TT does not exactly have anything else dramatically different under them and the S15 was being sold with the same suspension 15 years latter and with 255hp from the factory.

So are you saying when I up the boost or swapped my turbo I suddenly now need to get my suspension realigned? Are you saying that the stamped stock control arms are going to bend and twist under the riggers of 400whp? Are you saying the car is going to suddenly do a backflip when it runs a 12.8 quarter mile?

Give me a fucking break.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:01 PM   #43
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The biggest problem with having a 500+HP turbo car, is th lag and when boost finally punches you in the face.

If you aren't used to it, it's a kick in the dick. Ass end kicks out in a millisecond, then you're stuck going WTTTFFFFFF was that. Lol
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:12 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline racer510 View Post
You seriously cant prefer a ka-t over say a 2j, really?
Im not saying i would prefer it over a 2jz.. i have a 2jz and i love the engine over a ka... im saying so many people toss the KA because there is this preconceived notion that the KA sucks... i personally disagree and believe in my ka and its a fun engine.

But of course if i had the chance to have a 2jz or rb in my s13 why not... im simply saying i like my KA ... is there really something wrong with that ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Stupid people learn from their mistakes - smart ones learn from other peoples mistakes.

Why waste time, money and effort to build a KA-T only to then regret not going to an actual platform that will support healthier power and torque levels. By going LS/JZ you are not only going to get a bigger displacement engine, with a larger aftermarket, you are also gaining significantly stronger transmissions in both cases.

Instead of focusing on "learning to drift" the real goal should just be "learn to drive", and you can do that in anything if you start going to autocross events and taking instruction. Awesome drivers can drift - awesome drifters can't necessarily drive.
Im not trying to compare motors in that aspect at all... im literally saying everyone seems to just assume its a shitty engine and will swap it out with out trying to build it.

Also im not necessarily saying its better for drifting im saying in general its simpler to spin the wheels to initiate a drift...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Please stop spreading miss information.

Block strength actually has very little to do with if it's "iron or aluminum" and a lot more to do with the actual design, webbing and alloy content of that iron or aluminum.

This breed of iron block is known to go "pop" at 400whp because of it's weak sauce alloy content. Race versions with more webbing and graphite added live long and proudly over 800whp.

Your trying to say im spreading mis information just because you post a picture of an iron block that broke it half..... Ive seen plenty of ka-t's pushing awesome numbers with no block issues...

The reason i say what i say about iron vs aluminum blocks is because ive seen plenty of blocks warp at the deck simply because it over heated. Cast iron from my experience has never had issues like that. Not to mention the fact that you have to be so gentle with tightening bolts. Ive even seen LS engines crack just because they were bumped into something while they were being hoisted out of the bay.

Do you really think a 2jz engine would be as great as it is today if it were aluminum ? It would be shit if it were, and it wouldnt be as bullet proof as it is with its cast iron design.


Lastly ... it may be a waste of money to you building a KA.. But not to me... i had fun building it and its been a reliable engine for me so i dont see why thats a waste of money.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:15 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
You have the same horsepower as a factory new Toyota Camry or a V6 Mustang. 700-900hp is "high horsepower".
And a go-kart could still beat them all.

200hp in a toy car is a lot more fun than 700hp in a dumpster.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:24 PM   #46
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First I laughed at this.


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Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post
Holy quintuple post Corbic!!!



That might be a new record or something...
QUINTUPLE.
then this happened.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Are you saying the car is going to suddenly do a backflip when it runs a 12.8 quarter mile?

Give me a fucking break.
Thank you both. For the laugh.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #47
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:35 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BossHogg View Post
First I laughed at this.

QUINTUPLE.
then this happened.

Thank you both. For the laugh.
I think Corbic shorted a wire or something, LOL!



I was honestly thinking of seeing how many useless posts I could get in a row in this thread. I'm willing to bet that I wouldn't have gotten to 5 before somebody else posted... *COUGH* (Corbic) *COUGH*

EDIT: I just checked right now, I had 4 minutes before the next post, *COUGH* (Corbic) *COUGH*. I might have been able to get it done! HAHA!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Please stop spreading miss information.

Block strength actually has very little to do with if it's "iron or aluminum" and a lot more to do with the actual design, webbing and alloy content of that iron or aluminum.

This breed of iron block is known to go "pop" at 400whp because of it's weak sauce alloy content. Race versions with more webbing and graphite added live long and proudly over 800whp.
Wait, are you saying that KA blocks are known to break in half at around 400hp??? Talk about mis-information...

You do have a point that block design, construction, and material quality are JUST as important as wether a block is steel or iron. Stating that KA blocks fail above 400hp is a bit radical though. Also, TYPICALLY SPEAKING iron blocks are stronger than aluminum blocks and aluminum blocks tend to warp more than iron blocks. This may not be the case all of the time, but those are typical properties of aluminum and iron blocks.

I COMPLETELY missed that post earlier with the quintuple post thing going on and all...
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:24 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Chuki_KA24e View Post
People get 300+ reliably all day long out of decent stock ka's, on stock internals, low and high mileage, with a good tune. You can find out everything you will need and exactly how to pull it off by looking at this link right here:

www.ka-t.org • Index page
thanks man! i'll check it out
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:41 AM   #50
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Wait, are you saying that KA blocks are known to break in half at around 400hp??? Talk about mis-information...
Never said that. The block in question is a Ford 302 SBF.

Also since when did this tread go from idiots thinking 400hp is going to twist a 240sx like a pretzel to a KA vs World thread?
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:46 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Never said that. The block in question is a Ford 302 SBF.

Also since when did this tread go from idiots thinking 400hp is going to twist a 240sx like a pretzel to a KA vs World thread?
I have no idea, just seemed like you were implying that KA blocks were weak. I had no idea that the discussion was regarding a Ford smallblock specifically. Silly me, I should have known that you guys were discussing an underpowered Ford V8 on a Nissan forum...
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:57 PM   #52
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I have no idea, just seemed like you were implying that KA blocks were weak. I had no idea that the discussion was regarding a Ford smallblock specifically. Silly me, I should have known that you guys were discussing an underpowered Ford V8 on a Nissan forum...
Don't be a sarcastic ass.

Go back and read the OP if you have too.

Quote:
So if someone could go a little in depth as to what things someone should have in mind before going all out on a motor.
Not my fault Collegekid's butt-hole got all puckered up over the idea that someone would swap out a KA instead of "building it first".

He made the broad statement that Iron blocks are stronger then aluminum, which is not true. They certainly can be, but there are also plenty of aluminum block engines out there that are stronger then iron block ones.

As for the SBF being underpowered - meh. It's the design the LS-seires was based off of, it can make so much power it tears it's self apart and in NASCAR the Ford engine is the only one actually based off a product motor. Dodge, GM and Toyota engines have nothing to do with their commercial counterparts.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:50 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic View Post
Don't be a sarcastic ass.

Go back and read the OP if you have too.
I am ALWAYS a sarcastic ass, not changing that...

Quote:
Not my fault Collegekid's butt-hole got all puckered up over the idea that someone would swap out a KA instead of "building it first".
I'm a KA fan myself but as long as it's not for a 1/2j or 1uz swap away!

Quote:
He made the broad statement that Iron blocks are stronger then aluminum, which is not true. They certainly can be, but there are also plenty of aluminum block engines out there that are stronger then iron block ones.
Typically that is not the case, as a generalization the OP is correct. You're being a nitpicky sarcastic ass yourself and arguing the details to death with specific incidences of iron blocks being weak/poorly designed.

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As for the SBF being underpowered - meh. It's the design the LS-seires was based off of, it can make so much power it tears it's self apart and in NASCAR the Ford engine is the only one actually based off a product motor. Dodge, GM and Toyota engines have nothing to do with their commercial counterparts.
5.0 Ford's make what, like 200hp??? That's underpowered. Yes, if you change EVERYTHING about the engine it can make a lot of power. Yes, it is one of the cheapest engines to build. That doesn't change the fact that in stock form it was far underpowered. If you change EVERYTHING about a KA it can make a TON of N/A hp as well. Ford's Nascar engines being "based" off their production engines isn't really anything to brag about. It might share one or two castings with their current products, but that's it. I'm sure that the GM and Dodge engines are based off some engine that was a production engine at one time as well.

I hate Ford, and Mustangs (generally speaking). Enough of this shit already...

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Old 09-06-2013, 11:01 AM   #54
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this thread is serious!........apparently
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:56 PM   #55
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OP, your 240 does NOT torque steer.
I could've swore I put "in the rain" but yeah in the rain i've experienced it. pretty sketchy
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:05 PM   #56
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I could've swore I put "in the rain" but yeah in the rain i've experienced it. pretty sketchy
that makes even less sense
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:47 AM   #57
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:55 AM   #58
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Are you saying the car is going to suddenly do a backflip when it runs a 12.8 quarter mile?
This is pretty much the only good thing this thread offered
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:47 PM   #59
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I could've swore I put "in the rain" but yeah in the rain i've experienced it. pretty sketchy
RWD cars don't torque steer. FWD cars do. Torque steer is when the car steers itself under heavy boost/power/torque/whatever, and it only happens in FWD cars. Maybe you meant oversteer.

Anyway, OP, what you should do is get GOOD coilovers (not cheap eBay shit), get the diff welded, get a seat and harness, and work on becoming a good driver before you add power.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:11 PM   #60
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Agreed. I always wanted almost 600hp in my car for a daily, more than enough power for fun right? Nope. I drove a car with almost 300hp and i shat bricks, That little power was so hard to control. The turbo literally hits you like a bitch when you reach full boost. I nearly ran into the vehicle in front the car.

as said before work on becoming a good driver before you add power
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