Biggamehit

First time at the track with no issues since coming back from basic military training at Mir's battle of imports vs. domestics last sunday. and the 240 was lovely that day getting me to the 4th round of et racing.

Im not really a drag guy, i was into drag a lil befor auto x and drifting. once u learn to launch and shift you never forget, i ran this time and only spent 800 for my setup and self ( basic) tuned it using safc I. Ill get to the dyno soon after i get my Megasquirt system. anyone eles run a similar setup/time and also dynoed, if so what were ur average HP and TQ results.


Current setup ( since aug 12, 2006 )
xspower T3 ( for a few more days, Holset coming)
ssac topmount manifold ( spot welded the suspect spots)
sr20 hot and cold piping ( fmic coming soon)
rb25 smic
xs power bov
370cc injectors
safc1
greddy Full auto timer
ssac fpr ( rising rate coming soon)
earls oil line fittings
Bkre7-11 iridium plugs
N60 MAF
255 pump
retarded timing (15* BTDC)

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undesiredshoe

nice....thats fast considering how much youve spent...i love ka-ts

LookOut Nick

thiers a thread called New fastest 1/4 mile times dood see that this makes it their!!

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wootwoot

Thats quite a high mph you have there. Good for a 12 if you hooked up.

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Biggamehit

lol yea, I ran right after Jon Sheppard and the track was extra sticky, i didnt even plan on running that day, I had some bald drift tires on and I was like what the hell, its probably the last time i would be able to get to an drag track before this season is over, I was surprised how much grip i actually had. I lowered the pressure to 23psi

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MURPHY

wow thats a really high trap speed. good job bro

whats with the half missing interior parts? is the car gutted? p.s. ever fix that rust?

DreamN

Very nice... has me thinking if I could do this as well for even less what you paid.

Biggamehit

^^ yea this dude on KA-t did it for like 500 bucks with an simlar setup almost, thats what kinda influenced me. he had an t25 thought and never posted any results. that 800 dollars also included an new flux welder which was only 145 bucks.

yup inside is completely gutted and painted and ready for basic roll cage, im taking this 240 of the streets soon. im going to be cutting that strut tower out and welding a new section in.

this is the rust he talks about

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MURPHY

ahh thats scary looking yea ive seen the bay already needs some work bro. you gonna remake the strut tower or what? id stich weld it all while doing it

Biggamehit

I started to cut out and entire section at an junkyard here in MD and f-ing ran out of battery. ill go back and finish the job which is not that much, hopefully that 240 is still there. IF not ill do it again.

Another issue was my flux welder is too hot to weld the new tower in, i tested it out on the lowest level and it still was burning an hole through the thin metal even when i held the gun back a bit and increased the wire speed.

so im going to harbor freight this coming weekend to purchase and mig welder. I already welded additional metal in there, and its been like that for a while so im kinda good.

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Silverbullet

what the hell is wrong with ur frame? Is it just me or is one strut tower much higher than the other?

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Johny5

its much higher and tilted back. basically this guy is an idiot for continuing to work with this car.

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drift freaq

That chassis is toast. Its not even worth trying to fix.

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Neejay

Nope, it is definitely warped.

Gepeto

I'd be scared of death if I had to drag race in that!!

punxva

yea bro take what u have in there and pick yourself a new shell

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soreballz

Word.
For the love of god, pick up a new shell, swap everything over, and trash that chassis.

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yfz460

You southern car owners/Cali residents (with access to tons of clean 240's/rust free 240's) probably have yet to see rust problems like that....

Biggamehit, your car isn't all too bad, totally fixable! My last car was the same way, nothing a little elbow grease and a mig can't fix. The current car I have now isn't tweaked at all, but definately has half a floor, and holes in the bottom of both front towers spanning from the firewall to the front of the engine (the passenger tower has cracked up to the coolant tank).

I've been in a welding shop for automotive, and any other random welding needs for the 17 years of my life, and I've seen some bad stuff... the salt they use on roads up here kills cars insanely fast! I'm so used to rust that a 240 came into our welding shop (and is currently still there) for a rhd conversion, full seam weld, and fuel cell installation and the first thing I said was "wow, no rust!"

A little entrance to the headaches of the current project (It was only $400, so I'm not complaining!):







(^^Don't mind the custom paint editing, it was for a post a while back... and yes that is a vacuum hose outside the car, haha.)


I'll spare the agonizing pictures of the underhood details....

BTW, nice time with that KA-T, a local here ran a best (that I witnessed) of 14.1 with a lightly modded SR (all bolt on stuff, T25 on stock boost I'm guessing) and usually runs 14.3-14.5 and I don't mean to bash on the SR peeps, because then I'd be bashing on myself!

And YES that is a barn behind my 240, and a tractor in the reflection to the left of the missing quarter section. I live in the boondocks, don't be hating!

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slideways2004

no way dude. throw those cars away. with the amount of work you put into it, you'll be kicking yourself in the end. spend like a week longer searching for a car and you'll find one. you paid for that piece!!???? you would have to pay me to give it to me.

91gst

they can be fixed just as yzf460 said they can be fixed with some elbow grease. some people like taking on big projects like that, i know i would if i knew how to weld. props to everyone saving rusted 240's.

oh and nice work there biggamehit!

yfz460

Exactly my point GST, props on you for the whole idea of saving our cars.... I love metal fabrication, but most people these days think anything more than "bolt on" or anything you cant buy is a waste of time.... hell, many people now a days pay to get their oil changed on their modified cars!

Some of us less fortunate work with what we have, and what we can afford (at 17, a steady job is damn near impossible). All these cars are is some stamped sheet metal spot welded together, so it's not going to be weaker with that sheet metal replaced with sheet metal (sheet metal made in the good old US of A of course!) properly welded in (and most likely replaced with thicker metal). Also, I don't have to worry about proper welds since my father teaches me with 43 years of experience behind him... (welding isn't hard anyways, that is if you like to get the underside of your nails dirty).

When this car is done, I wont be able to ask enough to keep you away from it slideways

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Biggamehit

damn sorry it took me so long to get back. All of the comments about trashing the car i have heard 1000 times.

well im about 5k in debt due to college etc. and i need to pay it off asap, so my car has been taking the back seat for a long while. im fixing the damage in about a week finally and im picking up an coupe ( craigslist more then likely) soon when the debt is half paid off, i could have been got rid of the car, but its really not as bad as you think, the Frame is fine, the damn shock tower just rusted away from the bottom a bit and with alot of city driving ( baltimore md lol ) and drifting it just went up. its very fixable, no one will touch it but me and im pretty good at welding.

when i get the coupe ill transfer everything over, and this chassis will be used for daily driver, Im not that wealthy to just toss a car.

thanks for additional comments

yfz460

let me see your work when you are done, also what grade ( thickness) of sheet metal are u using, im picking my sheet metal up 2mar and some more Flux.

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yfz460

For the floors I will probably use 18-gauge steel (thats what my father usually uses on the jap cars like these...) and for the towers I will use 18 on the bottom and if you had to patch the top, I'd go a little thicker.

From what I see, 18 gauge is all you will need for your job you got for you.

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Biggamehit

Roger that one

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Team Rootbeer

jesus.

flux welders, whacked out chassis, rust everywhere

DITCH IT. drive south and pick up a decent chassis for fucks sake.
i work in a street rod shop and i dont even deal with that kind of shit, and the cars i build are at LEAST 40 years old. damnit man.


flux welders. my god. its 2006.

*edit- welding/cutting/changing a strut tower is not a wise idea if you dont have much fabrication or welding skill. and, seeing as how your using a flux core welder, id assume you dont.

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Biggamehit

I have an mig and flux welder, if you are talking about me. and im looking for and Tig right now.

also im 23 and have been building cars since 16.... so u must not be talking to me buddy

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yfz460

You're fine with a mig, as long as you know how to weld correctly you shouldn't have any problems. A tig is a little overkill IMO; if you're worse than me as far as looks go, then I guess it could be done.

Rootbeer, as far as I'm concerned, we have our cars and we both apparently like fabrication, so we're up to the task... and usually what I see from rodders is people with enough ka-ching to go find a good shell from down south and finish the project without delay in their garages. Last time I saw a '32 around the Albany area was.... hmm... in my dad's shop for RUST. Granted it wasn't as bad as out Japanese counterparts here, but it was from down south and the guy payed a good chunk of change (or so the customer said) for the complete car minus an engine and drivetrain.

Nothing survives the salt up here for long, and not everyone is supported with a good bank account, and not everyone wants to wait untill they turn into a rock to get their dream car (or closer to their dream car) project moving.

And look at the plus side Biggame, our cars are lighter than theirs... LOL.

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Biggamehit

yea the tig for that thin sheet metal is overkill, but for my crew ill be doing exhuast and other custom jobs.the flux burns right through it. my mig ( Lincoln ) is fine and im able to adjust the wirespeed and heat range. if my flux welder had that ability i would be better. For the thick metals welding is good also i work outside alot and the shielded wire does really good and doesnt ball up as much. i welded my diff with my flux a while back and have had no issues.

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Team Rootbeer

you guys go and weld whatever. and have fun. and learn things.

theres so much negative stuff to say about this shit its not even funny. sorry.
but.........



give up on that chassis. if your any bit serious, and had any clue what you were doing, you would have ditched it when you saw that^

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yfz460

What's the big deal about this? Any good weld will be as strong, if not stronger than the pieces of steel it bonds together. All of the rotted metal would be replaced, thus the car would be better than new.... we just work with what we have, and don't give up when we see something thats unexpected.

Down south you may not have seen this kind of thing, but up here I see it everytime I visit my father's welding business. Even the local DMV's send people with cars that won't pass inspection to my father because they know it's just as good as when it was new; they don't tell their customers to go buy new cars if they're not willing.

It's what happens with cars, they're a neverending project.

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