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Old 08-23-2012, 09:08 PM   #1
s13suckadrift
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RHDLS13 Pro AM/FD Build!!!

As of my knowledge I don't know anyone in TN with a rhd ls1
Ive been putting off making this build thread for a while now but ive got time tonight lol. Back in fall of last year i bought a rhd 240sx that has floated through this forums several times. It was my daily driver/drifter all the way up till the end of March of this year.



One night me and my dad got to talking about the car after going to his first drift event with me. He was so impressed with my friend Tyson's ls2 240sx and all the other v8 swapped cars up there that he was wanting build one with me.



Soooo i kinda offered my car as the sacrifice and decided to go in half and half with him to build a pro am/fd legal car. My buddy bought my sr20 i had in the car and so begings the project. I gutted the whole car to prepare for the car and took off the front radiator support for the tube front. We made a trip up to St. Louis a couple times to pick up my Origin Aero, random swap parts, and the donor car. The donor car was a totaled 98 Z28 Camaro with 106k miles. LS1 with T-56. After parting the car out i ended up picking up the engine for around 1700.













Shortly after getting back from St. Louis we decided to go ahead and start dropping the engine. 1.5 hours later we have this







So now begins the research and parts hunting and shortly into this i found it was going to be a little more difficult than i had planed. The problem with the ls1 in a rhd 240sx in the starter interferring with the steering rack.

I got kind of burnt out on the project for a bit i picked myself back up and got to work. I ended up going with the fueled racing front sump oil pan. IMO this was well worth the money because it doesn't require any crossmember modifications and has a nice quad baffle with trap doors.









I ended up going with a summit mini starter in order to help me with the clearance issues on the steering rack. It requied some grinding on the block and a modification to the CAS to extend the connector out. Through research this has been the best method to use. I picked up a 6-puck clutch from Tennessee Clutch in Nashville. The quality was great especially for the price.







After we reassembled everthing and beating the everlasting hell out of the transmission tunnel we decided it was time for the test fitment. Engine slipped in like butta but we realized it still had some issue that needed to be taken care of. The starter was still too close to the steering rack and was hitting when turning the wheel. The sway bar was way to close to the oil pan. Fortunately i had a plan for these.





Ordered more random parts in order get the swap done. Header kit, radiator, etc... With the Rhd one of the issues is the clutch master cylinder hits the back of the head. I ended up having to go with reverse swing pedals because the floor mount pedal i had wasnt going to work. This helps by moving the master cylinders behind the dash. Also is my powersteering flow reducer so the ls1 pump doesnt over power the rack







So for my solution for the starter I ordered Powered By Max Eccentric Solid Rack Bushing. These actually helped me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. It moves the rack forward to stop overcentering the tie rods and locking the steering at max angle. I had problems with this at my last drift event.
Also ordered the Sikky Sway Bar. Sikky has a redesigned sway bar for the 240sx to help with any swap not just ls1. Also it has a sexy green





After installing the new parts we put the engine back in and BAM!!! The engine went in like butta. The starter clears with about .5in and sway bar clears great. So from here we started making the mounts and installing a few random pieces.





STARTER CLEARANCE





Got a little progress done the past few days. Slowly but surely its coming along. I got my Sikky driveshaft installed. Also got my new Stance solid steering bushing in today and installed.





Got my oil filter relocation and lines mounted and ran. Dont mind the temp filter i have a big boy ready for this MacDaddy



Also relocated my Fuel filter/Regulator. I figured this would be a good place to put it to keep it away from heat and to keep it close to the fuel rail for less pressure drop. Since the fuel regulator for the camaros is in the tank itself I had to go with a 98+ Corvette fuel filter because it has a built in pressure regulator.



Also just for the hell I tried test fitting the pipes for my headers and surprisingly it was kinda close for the passenger side. Drivers side not so much. Gotta work around a steering shaft and starter. Still needs some more cutting and repositioning.



Also got in my gauges. This is the ARK Designs MFD(multi function dash). It has 8 gauges in this one device with audible and visual warnings. It can read the factory sensors or additional sensors can be added if they dont come factory. It has analog and digital gauges and in many different combos. For $200 it was way better and cheaper than buying 8 gauges. I hooked it to the computer just to play with it and im already impressed.





Got my S.S. powersteering lines and fuel lines made at Patco in Murfreesboro



Started on making my stand alone wire harness and getting it tucked away behind the dash.
Gotta love the rainbow spaghetti



All the wires and sensors Im not using that came out of the harness



Hers getting the wiring ran into the cab.









Here's the wiring after I got everything done before and after the loom

BEFORE:



AFTER:





After getting all the wiring done my buddy came over and "reflashed" my ECU and after about 15 mins we cut it on first try with no problems
So now onto some more progress to get the car driveable. Getting it ready to go to the shop so we can get the tube front, headers, and roll cage in so we can mount the pedals.

Cut out the fender wells



And got master kill switch installed





This is all the progress i have for now and lots more coming soon. We're hoping to get this thing moving here in the next month. Heres a picture i found on google. This is kinda what my car will look like when finished.




THANKS AND ENJOY!!!!
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:47 AM   #2
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Here's some pictures of the progress on my cage and im loving the way its coming out so far! Still have the tube front and fab up an exhaust with the ls3 manifolds I got for temporay till I get ready to do headers.



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Old 09-08-2012, 08:36 AM   #3
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any reason why you chose that location to install the kill switch?
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:42 AM   #4
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Awesome man!! Looks like this thing is gonna be pretty sweet
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
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any reason why you chose that location to install the kill switch?
That's where the FD rules say to mount the kill switch is on the right side cowl.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #6
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I like this build. Good shit
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:51 PM   #7
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Some pictures of the pedals, and the steering column all mounted up.



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Old 09-18-2012, 12:54 PM   #8
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what are you using for headers?
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:42 PM   #9
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I was going to get a custom set done but ended up goin with c6 ls3 manifolds.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13suckadrift View Post
Wow this build is coming along great. I wish my dad would go in half/half with me on my build.

Not to burst your bubble, but I don't believe that cage will pass FD inspection. If I have read right the bars coming from the main hoop down to the rear strut towers must actually meet at the towers not at the bar between them. I could be wrong and someone correct me if I am. I just seem to remember reading that and also being told that about my cage in the shell I bought (it's cage looks like the one you are building currently)
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:46 AM   #11
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how good do those headers clear the stering shaft and starter? how much are they?
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:11 AM   #12
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I have a Summit mini start and the PBM rack bushings and the manifolds clear so far but I also have customs mounts I made. The drivers side is still tight for the the downpipes. But the manifolds only cost like $100 at most on eBay
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #13
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damn thats good to hear. just stock ones? or oem? my buddys got an ls1 hes putting in his RHD 240 so i was curious
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:20 AM   #14
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rear 1/2 of the cage doesn't look too good. Hopefully you havent welded it yet, don't tie everything into the strut bar.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:19 PM   #15
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Thank god for this thread! i hope everything works out for you man im going to be swapping a LS into my RHD S13 this winter and this thread will help me out alot! everything looks good cant wait to see the finished product! good luck man! may be PMing you if i have questions!
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13suckadrift View Post
That's where the FD rules say to mount the kill switch is on the right side cowl.

Right side cowl. . . as in the black plastic trim at the bottom of the front windshield. . .
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:57 AM   #17
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Finally some updates on the build!!! Just got the car back from Carma yesterday and they have blown my mind on the work!!! Here's some pictures of the cage with the gussets, my pedal assemblies mount with master cylinders behind the dash, tube front, and some of the radiator work.

Anyone who ever needs amazing fabrication work at a great price GO TO CARMA PERFORMANCE in NASHVILLE, TN!!!





















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Old 09-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knifedag007 View Post
Not to burst your bubble, but I don't believe that cage will pass FD inspection. If I have read right the bars coming from the main hoop down to the rear strut towers must actually meet at the towers not at the bar between them. I could be wrong and someone correct me if I am. I just seem to remember reading that and also being told that about my cage in the shell I bought (it's cage looks like the one you are building currently)
Quote:
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rear 1/2 of the cage doesn't look too good. Hopefully you havent welded it yet, don't tie everything into the strut bar.
Good to see ppl read their own thread as they progress...
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:43 PM   #19
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Good to see ppl read their own thread as they progress...
Ive read the rules and the post. It doesnt say the way I have it ran is wrong nor right. The rules say "you shall" not "your required". READ BETWEEN THE LINES
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:55 PM   #20
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andys old shell, i worked on that thing many a times when we put the rb20 into it
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:15 PM   #21
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Ive read the rules and the post. It doesnt say the way I have it ran is wrong nor right. The rules say "you shall" not "your required". READ BETWEEN THE LINES
That's good to know...I might not have to go back and redo the cage in my shell. Thanks
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:04 PM   #22
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That's good to know...I might not have to go back and redo the cage in my shell. Thanks
I was talking to the guy who made the cage and he said there are FD drivers running like that too
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:11 PM   #23
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I like where this build is going so far, keep it up!
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13suckadrift View Post
Ive read the rules and the post. It doesnt say the way I have it ran is wrong nor right. The rules say "you shall" not "your required". READ BETWEEN THE LINES
Now I may be wrong, but I think this is not only inaccurate, but also a poor strategy as far as passing tech inspection.
You are correct in that it does not specifically state that you are required to do so, but the rules also state things like:
Quote:
7.4.2.1.1. The weld shall have no cracks.
7.4.2.1.2. Thorough fusion shall exist between weld metal and base metal.
7.4.2.1.3. All craters shall be filled to the cross section of the weld.
7.4.2.1.4. Undercut shall be no more than 0.01 inch deep.
etc..
Again, I may be mistaken here but I am pretty sure if you pulled up to tech inspection with cracked welds, non-thorough fusion, unfilled craters, and an undercut exceeding .01" of depth, they aren't going to pass you for your "creative thinking" while reading the rule book.

Don't get me wrong, I definitely think you are doing some great work and will end up with a wicked tire slayer.. I'd just hate for you to put in all this hard work only to have to go back and change it down the line, especially after paint.

Always better to be safe than sorry.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #25
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Any updates on this car!?
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Now I may be wrong, but I think this is not only inaccurate, but also a poor strategy as far as passing tech inspection.
You are correct in that it does not specifically state that you are required to do so, but the rules also state things like:

Again, I may be mistaken here but I am pretty sure if you pulled up to tech inspection with cracked welds, non-thorough fusion, unfilled craters, and an undercut exceeding .01" of depth, they aren't going to pass you for your "creative thinking" while reading the rule book.

Don't get me wrong, I definitely think you are doing some great work and will end up with a wicked tire slayer.. I'd just hate for you to put in all this hard work only to have to go back and change it down the line, especially after paint.

Always better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks man I'm not trying to cut any corners. The shop I have doing the work can make just about anything happen. I was just in a rush to get the car back. and if worst comes to worse I can always put 2 bars in the right way. Its the same way Dia's cage is.

Quote:
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Any updates on this car!?
And I will try to have some updates here soon
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:40 PM   #27
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Good stuff here!
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #28
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FINALLY!!! I have time to post up some updates on what's been going on with the car! From where I left off last we have since gotten the exhaust done. I went with a 3in X-pipe true dual out. We got the engine bay and inside painted gloss white! and got my Origin Aero on and got the whole car painted!!! We cut it super close with the paint and everything because the day after we finished paint we had a drift event at Beech Bend for Driftoberfest3 held by TND and Cause Factory. And here's some of the results. Team Waffle added me to there team! Also this was the first time I got do tandems and it was a blast. by the end of the day I was in a 4-5 car tandem! Be sure to follow Team Waffle on FB We will rock your socks off!!!




















I ended up having a slight kiss from another car then me and a wall had a makeout session but it was enough to stop me.







At the end of the day I ended up wining the "Best Track Car" trophey and had the best drift day ever.



AND MONEY SHOT!!!


After everything with Driftoberfest being a success we got the paint fixed and I attend my last drift events before down season with DriftSTL and Traction Optional. Those events were great but when I got home I drove the car from the alignment shop to home and I ended up with an engine noise I'm soon to diagnose. It's either a bad lifter or a rod knock due to the engine being a 98 ls1. Plans for winter are to freshen up the engine and seal off everthing that's been leaking. CAM IT UP!!! and probably a bottom end rebuild. If I'm lucky I can sneak in some PBM knuckles and LCAs. Hopefully when I'm done I'll be ready for Pro AM 2013.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #29
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haha I knew your car seemed familiar, I saw you at the event on the 18th

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #30
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haha I knew your car seemed familiar, I saw you at the event on the 18th
Yeah that was me. We ended up messing up the engine up at that event I'm guessing but I don't think I could hear it over the exhaust leak. What were you in?
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