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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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08-02-2014, 02:10 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Driver side caliper hangs and wont release.
Hey all, I have never really had this problem before so I am asking for some trouble shooting help here.
I have a 90' s13 and am having an issue where the brake caliper is sticking, it seems to go back to normal after "resting a bit" and then I drive if for a couple of miles and then in sticks and if I jack up the front I can barely turn the wheel. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. |
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08-02-2014, 03:00 PM | #2 |
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Are these S13 brakes?
Jack up the front, remove wheel, take off the caliper, and inspect the seals and the piston, etc. If the caliper was hard to remove off the rotor, it's probably a seized piston. |
08-02-2014, 06:57 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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Yes, S13 Brakes, Stock.... Sorry, I guess I should have provided more information. Awhile back I was backing the car into the garage and heard a pop and noticed the brakes were different. A real hard pedal, like no power brakes. I replaced the booster as that is what someone suggested. Well, that seemed to give me a power pedal now but the driver piston grabs and stays out. I just replaced the caliper today and it seemed to be fine but after a bit of driving again, I have noticed the brake still is hanging. So it is not a seized piston since this is a new (reman) caliper. Any other suggestions or thoughts?
Last edited by Billiam151; 08-02-2014 at 06:58 PM.. Reason: added S13 brakes |
09-09-2014, 07:25 PM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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checked the lines and really did not see any visual issues, I did bleed the brakes correctly started with the passenger front and worked myself around, actually that's why I ended up with a new caliper on the driver rear, could not get the bleeder screw loose and ended up just buying a new caliper... so replaced that, then started all over for shits and giggles.. still having the issue after that also.
One thing I did not mention is that I did replace the booster awhile back... someone said something about maybe when I replaced the booster it was not adjusted correctly.. anyone have any thoughts on that? I did find some info and the proper setting but upon checking the old booster that did not measure the correct distance either, but I am going to measure that next time I have an opportunity. |
09-21-2014, 11:58 AM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
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okay, an update but no joy.. I re bled the brakes, no joy.. adjusted the pushrod on the booster.. no joy.. let me tell you, adjusting that was a biatch...
I can drive the car about 10-15 minutes before the brakes start to drag. Today, when I got home I removed the vacuum hose from booster to the check valve and a lot of pressure came out of it I know the valve is correct at least from what I have read.. the gray side is towards the booster and the black side is towards the manifold. I guess I am at a loss and I guess I could change out the brake master cylinder. anyone have any other thoughts? |
09-27-2014, 02:09 PM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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09-28-2014, 06:36 AM | #10 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Its probably the slide pins. Pull the caliper and inspect the slide pins. Usually one has a rubber bushing on it. If it wasnt greased with a silicone type paste, they WILL swell up. Then the caliper "hangs" or "catches" they can also get rusty and crudy in there when the boots go bad. Had this same problem a few months ago. my drivers rear caliper. Had Just remanned it but it was holding the rotor so tight it burned all the paint off the caliper on the test drive. Turned out the traditional brake grease I used, swelled the rubber bushing on the brand new slide pins. Was pretty frustrating to figure out. You'd think using brake grease on brake parts would be fine. But nope! Silicone paste!!
Last edited by spiegel420; 09-28-2014 at 09:55 AM.. |
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