SupaDoopa

So, I figured I'd start one of these eventually and suppose now is a decent time seeing as I have nothing to do and insomnia is setting in pretty hard. I tried to include anyone who helped make it possible and trust me - it is a constant on-going build that I will always be fiddling with so be sure to check back as things are always going to be different in one way or another.

Anyways, a few months back, I traded my '99 Miata that was slammed on the ground with some nice wheels for a '91 240SX hatch that was COMPLETELY spotless meaning no rust, no rot, nothing at all. It had a ding here or there, but that's easily fixable; rot, well, not so much. I've had a few before but only beat the crap out of them and went from shell to shell and I figured this time I'd go big and do it the right way - no cheap imitation crap, no cut corners, no half assing. So, I got started. The first thing I did was rip out the KA-T motor and get rid of it. The idea was to go SR20DET. Now, I don't hate the KA24DE's, just not the build I was intending on running with.

Below is how I got her [minus the wheels, it came with some gross ricer wheels I put in storage as spares that will do me no good now - read on to realize why] and she needed help. She was a HICAS car with ABS which sucked but good came out of it in the form of a VLSD and power options which I don't mind the least bit. She did have some crappy intercooler piping that was all mismatched to barely work and a FMIC that was pretty hurt.



This is the modified list of the things it had when I picked it up. I was told when I picked it up there was more/different parts but after hard investigation, half of the stuff was missing or not as quoted.
Engine:
S14 KA24DE
S14 T28 turbo [which was blown]
HKS wastegate actuator
HKS Super Dragger 2 [3.25" exhaust]
Custom made bottom mount manifold and downpipe [cracked to shit]
370cc injectors
Clutchnet 6-puck unsprung clutch [destroyed and it was OEM]
Solid aluminum motor and transmission mounts

Chassis:
Function & Form type 2 coilovers
Tein tension rods
Inner tie-rod spacers [non-existant]
VLSD differential

Interior:
KPH cluster
SPOTLESS interior
Carbon fiber vent block for 2 gauges [was in the trunk somewhere]
AEM UEGO
AutoMeter boost gauge
TRUST E-manage to tune with support tool [didn't like to work a lot, faulty wiring]

Exterior:
SE lip
SE wheels with rubber
Wingless hatch with covered holes [he covered them with duct tape]


This is the motor I picked up. It's a S13 blacktop with perfect compression. Only issue was the clutch fan was missing two fins which is something I can overlook. I ended up going electrical fans anyways so the fact it had missing fins wasn't even a concern. Harness and everything looks almost perfect minus a little build up around the throttle body but with some cleaner, she was fine. Some people say don't trust JDM Engine Depot [jdmenginedepot.com] but for the most part they were pretty good. I went to pick up the motor which is the mistake a lot of people have. Some plugs were cut but I had a spare harness so it wasn't a big deal. Only thing that was missing was an ignitor, really. I'd do business with them again [but as others have warned, I wouldn't have them ship unless you plan on gambling].




This is the heart transplant of me removing the motor. I didn't have a good camera at the time so excuse the kinda crappy pictures in some of these. Blackberry's fail with photos.




Very shortly after acquiring the motor and removing the KA-T setup, I hit up some vendors [MVPMotorsports, FRSport, and 240SXMotoring - all are GREAT companies to work with] and started getting some parts for the build. Surprisingly, some of the product I got seemed better than I anticipated. It was more of a "get parts to have it run and get something a little better later on" kind of thing, but after examining everything, I'll probably roll with it all.



After the motor was completely out and everything was in order, I put the SR20DET back in the Nissan Titan and headed a state over to drop my car at Fujii-SPL to get the motor dropped in, tubs added, and a little swag. I HIGHLY recommend these guys - they're very professional, skilled, and priced WAY below the product they put out. I was so impressed with what they've done and I highly recommend them like I said. Their power steering lines are top notch! They even did a few custom items for me for free. I can't say enough great things about them. This is what the car looked like when it was unloaded off the car trailer and in transition to when the OEM tubs were cut and the new wells were tacked in.







As they worked diligently, I had a couple color schemes I wanted to roll with ultimately leading with purple engine bay with hella flake, white exterior, and at this point the wheel color isn't too important. With that said, the color I went with came out BEAUTIFULLY. Don't mind how the color looks different in a few pictures - the lighting REALLY brings out the colors. In the sun, it's brilliant.




Then the bad news came in that the T25 was blown. It didn't really bother me because I planned on going bigger as I had a GT2871R laying around. I meant to rebuild it as it had a few rock chips on the fins that really just made me want to fix it; I am HELLA OCD with that kind of stuff. So, with that aside, I decided to go buy a brand new S15 Spec-R dual ball bearing T28 with STANCE reclocking kit and gaskets, tubes, and pipe kit from Nissanparts.cc which also helped me out. While I was in shop-mode pre-black Friday, I decided to buy a few things to replace the bland interior crap that will get me raged looking at for any longer which were the steering wheel and seat. It came with single cam seats but the driver's side was beat to hell like they all are from entering and exiting the car. I replaced the wheel with a PERSONAL deep dish 3-spoke and the seat with a REAL, yes REAL, Bride VIOS III Low Max sitting on BRIDE FG super low seat rails.





Then I heard back from Fujii-SPL that the car ran with no knocks, noises, ticks, or any issue at all which was GREAT news. I did take the valve cover to examine the motor but that doesn't tell me anything about the bottom end and I didn't really want to rip apart the motor that looked mint so I rolled the dice and lucked out. This is the teaser picture they e-mailed me.



When I got that, I basically shit my pants instantly. The car looked 110% better under that hood. Everything was clean, perfect, and again clean. Granted it's going to be changed thirty times over, in her current state, she's a pretty girl. And this is how she looks now. These pictures are actually a couple days old, so they're not completely current. As the days go buy and I get more done, I'll snap some pictures.





As of now, this is the setup:
Engine:
S13 SR20DET black top
Semi-wire tuck done professionally by Fujii-SPL
HKS Super Dragger 2 [3.25" exhaust]
SPEC Stage 4 6-puck sprung clutch
NISMO motor mounts
NISMO tranny mount
NISMO oil cap
ISIS radiator
ISIS radiator hosing
ISIS twin radiator fans
ISIS FMIC
ISIS FMIC piping
HKS flanged hot pipe
HKS SSQV
Megan turbo elbow
Fujii-SPL power steering lines [See them here!, GREAT guys]
Fujii-SPL metal coolant reserve tank

Chassis:
Function & Form type 2 coilovers
PBM RUCA's
PBM toe arms
Tein tension rods
Inner tie-rod spacers
VLSD diff
Super HICAS delete [full system deleted from pump to subframe]
ABS delete [new hard lines run]
Z32 30mm aluminum brakes
Z32 e-brake conversion
Ichiba 5-lug conversion hubs
Muteki SR35 purple locking lug nuts
Z32 1 1/16 BMC

Interior:
PHLIP #15 pool ball shift knob
KPH cluster
PERSONAL 6-bolt 3-spoke steering wheel
NRG 2.5 quick release
NRG slim hub adapter
BRIDE VIOS III Low Max [driver]
BRIDE FG super low seat rail [driver]
Carbon fiber vent block for 2 gauges
AEM UEGO
STRI 52mm DSD electronic boost gauge
Relocated battery to the trunk

Exterior:
SE lip
MB Battles 17x9.5 all the way around
Wingless hatch
Vertex body kit

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I also have a massive for sale thread trying to get the missing pieces to getting her run a little better. I'm trying to snag some 550cc injectors and either PowerFC or NISTUNE. I've got plans to do so much more so sit tight and let me know your questions, comments, things you would have done differently, but please keep the flaming and bullshit to a minimum.

Special thanks thusfar:
NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories
www.FujiiSPL.com
MVP Motorsports
www.240sxmotoring.com
FRSport.com - Aftermarket Performance Parts
www.Zilvia.net
240sxONE

SupaDoopa

RESERVED for futher content.

4DOOR_LIFE

That engine bay is pretty awesome. Diggin the color, but its screamin for an ISIS turbo manifold or something other than stock.

can't wait to see the progress, looks really good so far. Wish i had this kind of money to put into my daily.

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SupaDoopa

I actually plan on going tubular with MAZWORX when I get that GT2871R up to snuff and snag an external wastegate and such.

apex

build looks good but wtf happened with those tubs??

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Red Rocket

SupaDoopa

What do you mean, what happened to them? They're wider than what people run so it has a little notch in it. They aren't the small ass trailer tubs people hack up and use - fully custom.

xBtony

God damn im in love with that engine bay. the color is really close to what i had in mind for my car. Looks dope dude. I like how huge the tubs are too. Nice work.

Magnum375 Jr.

Looks awesome, For the time being you could sand down and try to either polish that exhaust manifold or repaint it with some black hightemp paint.

s13dan

I'm digging the purple. Keep it up, we need more!

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89 240sx hatch #933-the hot rod
91 240sx coupe #131,603-the daily

Sileighty_85

Very Nice, I Love the Color as well.

Nah take it to a machine shop ans they can wire brush the ports and throw it in a tumbler.

I had mine cleaned for $20 then painted with VHT paint.


Paints been holding great so far (2 months). Just follow the instructions on t he can, Primer it and bake it.

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後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

holybushoffire

How much clearance do you have between the hotpipe and tub? it looks pretty close.

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CHINA DRIFT

"some guys have a better relationship with their car than their wife haha. sad but true."

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SupaDoopa

I have decent clearance, and I may coat it. I have a couple things I want to do before I worry about the ONLY eyesore in the engine bay especially knowing I will be going tubular in the very near future. Going to basic in February is going to be a damper on the work for a couple months, but when I come back, the build will continue and will continue STRONG; ARMY STRONG.

holybushoffire

Army strong and purple is a good way to support the lift on don't ask don't tell lol

Just playin, hoping to see what comes next.

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"I am not good English, I like the drift"
CHINA DRIFT

"some guys have a better relationship with their car than their wife haha. sad but true."

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SupaDoopa

Haha. Wanted to originally go lime green exterior with purple accents, but kinda veered away from it - I don't need unwanted attention while just driving down the street not that I don't get that already, but I'd like to keep it to a minimum. Expect more very soon.

tricky_ab

I'm diggin the bay so far! Keep it up!

240SXK

This car has the biggest penis

drift_limo

Whats the point of having tubs that are that wide?
everything else looks on point.

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smelly240

looks pretty - but working in the engine bay with those tubs is gonna suck. I love how tubs look... I just dont like the confined space. I think my turbo would def hit the tubs in your car.

For reference - mazworx manifold / billet 6262sp



I'm thinking you might wanna stay bottom mount with the lack of space.

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HREs on a S13 - check, 6262 - check, Girlfriend.... - nope

SupaDoopa

The point for wide tubs is to get the best possible angling I can without smashing into my OEM wells while being able to run a decent sized tire in the front. As for top mount, it was test fitted and will fit with about 2 inches to spare. I will most likely stay bottom mount, though. The tubs are only a little wider than the widest part of the strut tower - the reason they look huge is because the strut towers aren't straight up and go up at an angle, so it looks like they're massive. Also, when you hit full lock, with the angle of the tire, I want them to be able to clear as well. It's all for a purpose.

SupaDoopa

UPDATED - She's almost there.





VERY SMALL amount of things to do under the hood. Rest of the time will be focused some suspension work, wheels, and interior workies.

S-Nation S13

the purple, seems to make me like this car even more, you gonna go with a different exterior color ?

va240dude

Looking good man!

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180SXオタクだ!

Pure_JDM

The reason people are giving you shit about your tubs is because they ARE overkill. There's no way they allow anymore steering angle than "hacked up trailer tubs", because you're limited in THAT extreme of an angle with the rear of the tower. All in all I like your engine bay... it looks really nice with the purple, I just figured I would let you in on why the criticism. And they ARE going to make working on the engine a bitch.

wannabdr1ftr

That purple looks awesome...i love where this thread is going. Those tubs are intense though.

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Irresistible

I'm in love with the color of your engine bay.

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MJenkins1101

It's absolutley gorgeous, when do we get to see the body painted?

drift_limo

This is exactly what I was thinking.

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daftphunk

Color of the engine bay made me re-read through this topic. Those huge ass pics are almost as big as your tubs, but that's cool. Hope it all works out.

anton1o

Yerrrrrr boi!

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tricky_ab

Any current plans for the exterior?