onepuff

Picked up a daily beater for the winter so i could do some work on my 95 S14 without worrying about rushing to get it back on the road so i'm going all out(well at least as much as my wallet will allow). Got the engine harness/chassis harness/bay fusebox cleanup done for the most part. Got some of my work on that here.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/231769...-q-thread.html

This pic is my inspiration. Bay looks like shit.


Just doing some work on tucking the brake lines and clutch line.

Bulkhead fittings -3AN
Rear line firewall bulkhead

Going to cut out the marked part and weld in some new sheet


Passenger side inner fender well. I'm going to get some 90* bulkhead fittings to get the line closer to the fender.



Passenger and rear line bulkhead fittings interior side.



Driver's side fittings






Interior side bulkhead fittings



Engine bay side Bulkhead fittings


Engine bay lines run. Need to get another banjo fitting for the rear line output from the MC and re-do the line on the left.





Here is the driver's side line run on the interior side.





Yes i do have a bender too. i know the driver's side line looks kinda funky but it will work fine.

Got to go to work now. I'll update when i get the other lines run tonight or tomorrow.

projectRDM

I always wanted to do this but didn't have the patience. It looks great...except for the three fittings on the firewall behind the master cylinder, they're not evenly spaced. That would aggravate the shit out of me if it was my car.

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s13drob

wow. ive never seen this. a wiretuck and battery relocation away from the cleanest bay in the world. haha for reals

Om1kron

it looks pretty good so far, it's a lot trickier for us since we do not have a .... forget the word thingie to go behind the firewall.


(like how that brake booster vacuumm line is converted to an braided!!!)

here is a write up for it, but it may be different for nissans because the bolt/thread patterns and stuff.

How To: Brake Line Tuck Guidelines.. - Honda-Tech

another way to do it would to run hardlines outside and braided and shielded wires inside for ease of routing.



Try summitracing.com or anplumbing.com . You can probably find a 37* flare tool on eBay too, used and cheaper.

$109.99 anplumbing.com



http://www.anplumbing.com/shop...Tools

$31.95 summitracing.com



http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I didn't see much on eBay, but that Summit one is fairly cheap anyway. Plus they'll probably send you a super cool Summit hat if you order from them.

Here's a baller set... $299.99 It does 37* and 45*, including stainless.



http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...49130

Here is another. $83.95


I would love to do this but the work involved just to hide those 3 lines that run at the top of my engine bay don't bother me all that much. I could just fabricate a dry carbon panel to go over that area. I mean those guys at honda tech are doing buck wild shit man, tucking AC lines, tucking brake lines in the frame rails.

or eliminating master cylinders or getting tilton swivel master cylinders that run sideways and behind the firewall.


mil spec connectors, wiring, and replacement firewall plates.


tucked radiators with relocated temp sensors.


custom fuse box panels all mil-spec wiring and connectors.


eliminating the master cylinder and having MANUAL BRAKES (fuck that) cool for the track, but harsh on the streets.

and seriously just read this guys thread start to finish... one of my biggest inspirations.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2393544

anyway back on topic.

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Wayne

xdumbxguyx

Chase Bays Online 2009

check that guys site out he does some pretty sick work
can get some ideas from his pictures

pretty much the same as what you are doing

Addicted2Kouki

wow that looks crazy.

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onepuff

The holes for the bulkheads are a little oversized so there is some room to play with them.

onepuff

I think the word you're looking for is prop valve.

Pitch/thread size is the same for the S14(not sure about other Nissans) 10x1.0

Adapters for inner fender well to brake hoses and MC. These are a tight fit. I wasn't sure if it was the right size as they didn't want to thread in by hand, but they are indeed the right size.
summitracing.com

Banjo bolts(10x1.0) and banjo fittings(10mm to -3AN).
summitracing.com
Earl's Performance 997631ERL - Earl's Performance Brake Adapters - summitracing.com

Make sure you get STEEL fittings for all of these by the way. Don't cheap out and get aluminum unless you feel like tackling a pole if they fail.

The brake booster line will be run into the windshield cowl. I'm going to get some aluminum and fab up a vacuum manifold which will sit inside the cowl. Barb fittings for vacuum will come through the firewall on the passenger side.

The link to the brake line tuck has great pics for flaring so i won't post anything else about it. Glad there is no need to do any double flaring here.
The Summit tool is what i used. It's ok and does the job. If i did this for a living like Rywire or somebody i would get the Baalllliinn setup though.

The driver's side line was the only line that is hard to get the bends right. The passenger side and rear lines will be a piece of cake. I would use the teflon lined braided stuff but that shit is $$$ plus there is debate about flex(which i don't believe the $ issue is what sold me on the hard lines.)

I will be using braided line for the clutch however with banjo ends to run from the clutch MC to the slave cylinder. The line will run straight back from the MC and come out in the trans tunnel right by the slave cylinder.

onepuff

Finished up the lines on the interior side. Took about 30 minutes to do these. As long as you have the car pulled apart it's not that much work to do this. A little expensive but i think i will be happy with the end result.

onepuff

Got the clutch line in. Came out pretty nice i think. There is another banjo fitting on the end going to the slave cylinder.

Om1kron

cool. ............

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Wayne

onepuff

Been a while but i have an update on this. Redid a few lines but everything is ready to test out. Hope nothing leaks! I will probably make some kind of shield to go around the lines in the bay.

kris

those brake lines in the wheel well look scary. I would be afraid to turn and damage the line under any sort of driving. But it looks cool through.

onepuff

I've already checked the clearances of everything and it is fine. Running 17x9 245/40 series and I have plenty of room at full compression/full lock etc.

higgzy

hey i know it's been a while, but does it matter solid lines vs braided. What do people think?

Om1kron

It's not recommended but no, it doesn't matter.

Depending on how the braided lines are run there is less of a chance for a hardline to be damaged as opposed to a braided. Much less if a hard line is damaged you can temporarily repair it without removing the whole line, where as with a braided there is no way to tell exactly where it's damaged.

Not the kind of thing you want lingering in the back of your head when that's supposed to stop your car.

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Wayne

!Zar!

I'd be afraid to run that with a high angle drift setup on a car that is low.

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joshy240sxxx

Hate to bump a old thread butt are the two front lines off the brake master for the front and the one under is for the rear? Sorry I purchased a shell with no lines and I'm running a steel braided set up but I can't find anything on line id's on the Bmc just want to make sure before I drop the engine thanks