turtle m3th

Making some nice progress badass! Can't wait to see this thing rippin around. Also, good find on the driveshaft shop. My shop is in Compton, and this isn't too far from me if I need to get a shaft made.

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badass8

Okay perfect thank you. Hopefully it doesn't move about a 1/4 inch then!

Thanks for the kind words!

I am so close its irritating! haha

I'm currently not getting any spark. I have checked the two coil packs, spark plugs, and all my grounds.

My next step is to go to the junk yard and grab a crank sensor and ignitors. I really believe its one of these.
CLICK picture to view video

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Fries

Are your igniters bolted to the chassis? I believe they must be grounded. Double checked you're getting power to igniters/coilpacks?

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badass8

I have a question about the igniters being grounded. At the moment they are connected to a stock bracket (pictured on the left) and I was only able to manage to ground one side of the bracket would that be enough?

And no I am not getting any spark to the coils and I plan to test the igniters today for spark.

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shoguner

Check the grounds on the back of the heads. Just 1 of those being off causes the whole system to not ground. There are 2, one on each head. That was my problem for a while.

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1uz build. Wiring on Page 2
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badass8

Took off those 2 grounds again to check them out and clean them. Passenger side was good. Drive side ground was frayed so I cleaned it up. But it didn't make a difference.



I made sure the igniters were grounded to something with no paint and just clean metal. That didn't make a difference.



I also picked up another pair of igniters and a crank sensor from the junk yard today. Tried both of them, but I am still not getting any spark at all. Kind of stumped at the moment. I need to start reading the diagrams and hopefully figure something out. Maybe the cam sensors now??

Edit: I have been reading up a ton about the no spark issue. This is just a theory, but I've seen a lot of sc400/ls400 threads about faulty ECU's. I plan to open up the ECU and look for burns or anything unordinary. And even pick up a ECU and test a working one.

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psi999

checked power to the coils?

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psi999

has been a while but the thick black wires with orange and red stripes are powered up by your relay block? check the whole system is being powered would be a good start.

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Fries

I would just get a meter and start check that B+ is getting power. Org/Black. How are you powering this? Typically its done by the IGN main relay. I just created my own since I was missing alot of the wiring from the ls400

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badass8

You are absolutely right I am not getting any power to B+. And Correct it should be getting power from this relay, and 86 but its not. Not sure why.

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Fries

85 should be your trigger wire. Some sort of IGN only power source. 86 should be grounded. 30 should be battery power preferably fused and 87 should be connected to B+. I'd just remove the 87A so it's not drawing any power.

Have fun listening to your 1uz start up bruh

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badass8

Thank you for the advice for what it COULD have been, but I checked every fuse except one!

Which was it....The fuse right next to the battery. By the way the fuse was only a 25AMP fuse should I have a bigger fuse inline with the battery? I also have a 200AMP circuit breaker if that makes a difference.

However I did get it to crank and spark. Now I need gas and I just order a walbro 255 fuel pump.

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badass8

Just got my 255 walbro installed


I put in about 3 gallons of 91 since I had old 87 in it. I was hoping it would do the trick, but its not wanting to start and idle! I have tried moving my igniter ground to various places, jumped the car since the battery was low, and used starter fluid. The first start will sound pretty strong, but then it diminishes if keep trying.
Video:

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Fries

Mine did that when the maf was unplugged and I had a frayed crank angle sensor wire.

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badass8

I was thinking MAF as another possible problem. I unplugged it and tried starting it again, same result. I should just go grab one from the junk yard to compare even though its likely it can be bad as well. I have also noticed that it will actually WANT to start with starting fluid, the more I spray into the throttle body the more likely it wants to start. No starting fluid= not really a spark.

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psi999

MAF's are very problematic with how old they are now. Can you test to see that the MAF is getting power?

Unfortunately you wont be able to test the output easily as the MAF outputs a frequency rather than voltage (aka Nissan MAF's).... if you have something like a SAFC you can check this output easily though.

As a side note my 1uzfe will start and run with the MAF disconnected but will run like shit.

Have you tried cranking the engine with a timing light to check if the engine is sparking on each cycle? - might be a worthwhile exercise.

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badass8

Testing the spark with a timing light is a good idea. I will have to purchase a timing light. Mine wont even run with or without the MAF connected.

My buddy did the 1uz swap on his rx7 awhile ago and he had to adjust his TPS to make it run. That's just another possible solution.

Every time I try to gas it when the engine wants to start it doesn't even react like it's getting more gas. It just starts up and dies with or without my foot on the gas.

I'll proceed my tests on Friday since its my only day off.

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badass8

Small Update:

-I tested the spark again and I am getting spark in Cylinder 1 which is the driver side coil pack.

-I am not getting spark on Cylinder 3 and 5 which is the passenger side coil pack.

-I tested the passenger side coil pack with another coil pack I got from the junk yard, but still nothing.

-Switched out the igniters with some others I got from the junk yard, nothing.

-Tested cam sensors on driver side and passenger side at 2k ohms and they tested exactly the same at 1.110 ohms. I read that they should be 900-1400 ohms so I should be good with those then.

I am puzzled because people can actually run this engine on 4 cylinders. Which I should be doing since one side is getting spark and one side is not.

Possible Problems:
ECU
Passenger Distributor Cap and Rotor.

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badass8

After realizing the problem I found its something to deal with my passenger side coil pack not sparking, so I started to read. I learned how to test and determine if spark plug wires, coil wires, distributor caps, and rotors are good or bad.



I took pictures of the distributor rotors. Both the passenger and drive side look equally worn at the ends.

Passenger



Driver Side

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badass8

I have tested everything besides switching out the cam sensors.

Not getting spark:

Cylinders: 2,3,5,8 (Passenger Side Coil Pack)

Getting Spark:

Cylinders: 1,4,6,7 (Driver Side Coil Pack)

-Coil packs both measure at 12.7~ OHMS

-Switched out distributor caps and rotors on passenger side, no difference.

-Switched out ECU's no difference.

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shoguner

Have you tried switching out Coil's?

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1uz build. Wiring on Page 2
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benarovi

my 1uz did that. ran on 4 cyl. but balanced to actually run half way smooth for 4 cyl. the coil pack was bad. there are 2 for each dizzys. can get new ones for cheap.

badass8

Yeah I have like 3 other coil packs and I have used all of them, same result. I also tried another set of igniters with a different ground location.

Well that's what I am confused about. I keep reading and I even seen my buddy's 1uz run off of 4 cylinders. But why isn't mine? IF it was the coil pack it SHOULD still run. But mine dies every time upon start up.


I've been a little busy with school as its reaching the end of the semester so I haven't work on it as much as I'd like.
I still haven't checked to see if my injectors are pulsing, rather fix the spark issue then move on to something else.

I did record the continuity reading of each spark plug and coil wires. They seem to be close enough to the specified values listed. Excuse my writing skills.



I also checked timing, it looked pretty good to me:

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ingmar F

What year is your 1uz? Maybe your ecu is immobilized? I have heard of immbolized ecu's letting the Car run for a very short period of time and then the Engine dies. I dont know if you have That Same problem?

badass8

It's a 92 I tried another ECU from a junk yard, given it COULD be bad too, but still the same result.
I also opened up the ecu I got with the engine and no sign of leaky capacitors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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badass8

SHE RUNS!

The previous OWNER not the person that did the wiring decided to DEPIN one of the igniter connectors, which happened to be for the passenger side coil. That person switched the IGT and IGF wires so the signal wasn't going to where it should be.

Switched it back to where it should be, Spark are all 8 cylinders, starts and runs just fine.

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jo_nathon

That belt seems really loose.

badass8

It is I need a new tensioner. It's bouncing everywhere.

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jo_nathon

Glad you finally got it running though. Really happy for you. Can't wait to actually get my build going. Just waiting on turtle to finish making all his swap stuff.

badass8

Thanks a lot man. Sucks I got it running just before Christmas now I want to buy whats left to finish it haha!

Awesome good luck man, if you have any questions let me know.

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