warauto

I have a s13 sr20det redtop with intake and exhaust, but other than that, my setup is completely stock.

I am running 7lbs of boost and a stock fuel pump which still runs strong.

I recently got my hands on a P60 q45 Maf and a walbro 255 fuel pump.
My goal is to run at 10lbs safely.

My next step is to get a SAFC2.....Thats where the problems lies. A friend told me i would have to give it someone to be tuned and I either have to buy a wideband and then give it to someone or pay for dyno time.

I thought that running such a setup as long as the afc2 is connected i could just fiddle with the air/fuel a little, because you can't do much with a piggyback anyway.

I was wondering if anyone had a similar setup, and what they did ?

Thanks

Sleepy240

Can you tune with just an SAFC? Sure. Would you want to? No. No matter WHAT tuning you do, no matter it a SAFC or Nistune or Power FC some type of monitor (Wideband) is required IMO. Street tunes are alright if you KNOW what your doing, otherwise your just wasting money. You should just skip the SAFC all together and save for a standalone. I havent had a stock setup in nearly 5 years, but from what I remember I just ran it at 10PSI, with a walbro, boost controller, and a wideband. I don't believe thats running past the stock MAF capacity. And since your not going over that using a new MAF is pretty much overkill, especially for your setup.

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bl3ujay07

10 lbs on stock t25 is fine. I was running 12lbs on stock maf and it was fine. Easier and dont have to waste money on a tune with the safc, which is unnecessary for what you have.

xpertsnowcarver

for a t25 at 10lb, you don't need to upgrade your maf.

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flip3d

stock is 11.5psi anyway.

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warauto

Their is another issue, i have a bogging problem also my car runs a little on the rich side, that is another reason im planning to get the afc. That should smooth out my issues and i thought along the way if it did fix those fuel irregularities, i would go 10lbs and put that maf on...

warauto

Thankyou man but right now and for a long time a standalone will be too expensive for me...so i was just trying to fix problems and get a little more power.

xpertsnowcarver

Wrong. You should fix your issue before bothering with any of this. You're just setting yourself up for more potential problems.

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flip3d

warauto. check your damn codes, make sure its 55, then turn up to 11psi.

shit.

no need for a new maf. no need for an safc. you're fine.

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Sleepy240

Exactly!! It sounds to me like you have more problems than just "running a little on the rich side". I would check all your vaccum lines, double check your system for leaks etc. Especially before just blindly throwing money at the problem hoping for a solution.

And in the long run standalone IS your best option. Spending the extra $300-$500 is WELL worth the cost of all the time you'll spend on a dyno just trying to lock in the SAFC. And you get the ability to modify and upgrade your setup. The SAFC is very limited... only 550cc injectors. If you ever plan to make decent horsepower you should throw this idea out the window before its too late and your out $300+.

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warauto

I am not looking for decent power, just a reliable daily with a little more than what i have got now. I was told by a mechanic that an afc would help with my running rich issue and rough idling, i have pressurized all vacuum lines and checked for boost leaks changed injectors, charge sparkplugs cleaned my maf, changed my maf and the same issues persist.

I was gonna say screw that and turn the boost up to 10 kbs and hope it doesn't fail. So what i am saying a afc is only 200 bucks away, and if that could just fine tune my fuel system as the intended effect and run 10 pounds safely as a latent effect, that would be good.

I am not planning to go over 250 hp, i don't race or drift nor am in need of alot more power...its just a bit...

s13silvia123

a SAFC does not get rid of the problem you have with your motor. and plus if you want a reliable daily you might as well stay stock and dont do shiiit with your motor. leave it the way it is so no more problem presist after you fix your bogging problem. the bogging problem is boost leak when you step on it with 10lbs of boost.

the more you want power out of your motor the more problems there is. as for a daily stay stock.

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flip3d

You see that thing mounted on the plate? It comes on S13 SR20DET equipped cars. Allows for 11.5psi.
Stop worrying and turn the damn boost up.

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bl3ujay07

OP you cant just use a safc and expect it to correct it for you. It'll just get worst. Get it fixed and THEN you use your safc. You cant take a short cut and expect it to be all fixed because in the end, it'll cause more problems.

besTint

a REAL tune makes ALL the difference. a WHOLEnother car and safer.

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warauto

my car doesn't have that, correct me if I am wrong, only if you have a front clip or an actual silvia that you will get the piece on the plate. Is it a
solnoid ?

flip3d

Yeah, it's a boost solenoid. Just get a manual boost controller and call it a day. The 205HP rating the SR20DET has is at 11.5psi.

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warauto

I always thought the rating was for the 7lbs i have on it now. Does silvia's come with a bigger fuel pump, similar to the walbro 255?

flip3d

The wastegate on the T25 is set at 7psi. When everything is working correctly the boost solenoid acts as a boost controller and opens the wg at 11.5psi. When your ECU goes into safe mode, the solenoid opens and it's back at 7psi.

As for fuel pump, just get a 255 and an FPR with a gauge in case you want to upgrade in the future.

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warauto

I have a 255 sitting here at home, I just need to put it in...

The thing is, I would like to correct my bogging, rough idle, running righ problem before i do that.

I wrote another thread and they said that it could be my factory fuel pump that could be mis-behaving.