Dudegonefresh

ok so im tubbing my fender arches or whatever they are called and need the battery in the back., im a noob to wiring and stuff. recently i picked up 2 gauge wire (house wire) off lowes, which is full copper non braided. i heard it will work just fine. basically i want someone with expereince to help me by posting pics and telling me what to do. i just want something reliable. heard to use a 100amp fuse. i dont want my car catching on fire. thank you.

eek

Google is your friend.

Dudegonefresh

ya i know that

the-rusty-240

What do you need to know?
What I used:

200amp fuse (yeah I know overkill)

2 awg amp wire

4 input distribution block

I ran it over the passenger side wheel through the door wire grommet down the kik panel.

the-rusty-240

Picture of door grommet mod

Attached Images

uploadfromtaptalk1396316445388.jpg (55.0 KB, 197 views)

az_240

Don't blame you for making this thread... Not many good write ups for this online. I'm just finishing up a battery relocation on my s14 and will take some pics a little later.

eek

-Run the power wire on the passenger side via the huge ecu grommet into the car. Take off the door sill on passenger side, tuck the power wire under the carpet, run it along the passenger side under the rear interior 1/4 panel cover then into the trunk.
-Route the wire to the passenger side rear area behind the tail light.
-Get a 100amp circuit breaker for the 12v power. Or you can use a fuse if you want.
-What ever you use to ground make sure you sand down the metal so you have a good connection. If you want to run more than 1 you can. I've seen plenty of people use shock tower, spare tire area, and the trunk floor near where you can mount the battery.
-Mount the battery on the passenger side rear behind the tail light.
-I would suggest a battery tray with tie down and mount into the trunk
-I also suggest a optima battery or similar drycell
-Have some nice new battery terminals on hand (order from ebay or from car audio shop)
-Make sure you have good ring terminals for your ground and attach them to chassis
-Attach your power wire to the positive battery terminal and wrap it up with electrical tape. (or you can spend more and run a distribution block and run new power wires to starter fuse box etc)

Its not that hard. There are TONS of pictures online that you should be able to figure out what to do, Its not rocket science. There are alot of write ups for the s-chassis, yea not all are super great in detail hold your hand with pictures of every step but you can also look at other car relocation write ups for other cars. Concept is the all same and any person should be able to figure it out pretty quickly.

Here is a good picture of where the battery should go and a really clean job
http://imageshack.us/a/img90/1048/jd...rld240sx22.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img705/8383/j...rld240sx23.jpg

az_240

^
-I'd suggest not running the power wire next to the ECU. I ran mine along the transmission tunnel on the passenger side and made a new hole to the left of the AC hardlines. Be careful though if keeping the AC... There's some stuff there that you don't want to drill through.

-100amp is too low and circuit breakers are not always reliable. I use a 200 amp ANL fuse but 150 should be fine.

-Mounting the battery on the passenger side shelf is tough on a S14... especially if the emissions stuff is still there. I found I couldn't use a full size optima with my Taylor box in this location without some fab work so I put it towards the front of where the spare tire goes. I leveled this area with 8lb density expanding foam and put a piece of sheet metal on top of that. It's better to have the battery low and centered anyway.

-For battery terminals, try to get ones that are covered.

-I'd suggest not using the Lowe's cable. It's simply too stiff. I use Temco Easy-Flex 0 gauge welding cable and it works great. Techflex braided loom is great too.

-When making the cables, it's good to get a hammer crimper to crimp and solder with silver bearing electrical solder and a propane torch to get a good connection, prevent corrosion inside the lug, and to be sure nothing will come apart. Make sure you clean the inside of the lug and wires with steel wool and use flux on both before crimping/solder.

Will post pics of my setup soon.

Dudegonefresh

so dont run a lowes cable and get a 0 gauge wire? not really trying to spend more money but if i have to i will. thanks for the help guys really appricate it. keep it coming

az_240

You can try but I think you'll find it won't work well. 20' of 0 gauge (AKA 1/0) Temco Easy-Flex welding wire is about $50 shipped on ebay and is more than enough.

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Yes stick to stranded, it carries current more efficiently and allows it to bend around things, those 6 to 12-strand solid copper ones are brutal to fish in and out of grommets etc

supersayianjim

good info, I really rather have my battery upfront, but if I have to.......

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az_240

There's really no reason to move the battery unless getting tubs.

Had some time to snap pics. I got the foam idea from scotty-2-forty's build thread on nico. Turned out pretty good IMO. The battery is solid to the floor and is not going anywhere. The 200amp ANL fuse is on a bracket just behind the box. I also moved any existing wires away from the power wire to help prevent any unwanted noise in the system.


Had to make the hole bigger and trim the interior pieces where the wire is coming through above the wheel well. Would have been easier to just run it above the shock tower but oh well... less length this way. The cable runs along the bottom of the trans tunnel to the firewall.


Still need to put conduit on the engine bay side. I just crammed the 3 old power wires into a lug, soldered it closed and connected that to the new power wire as a temporary solution. I'll probably run it to the starter or put the fuse box in the glove box when I swap engines and tuck what I can. Ended up using a section of heater hose as a firewall grommet since I couldn't find any actual grommets that would fit right (needs to have a 10mm+ groove which is hard to find). I'll eventually get a proper grommet for aesthetic reasons.


What the cables look like after hammer crimp and solder.

Dudegonefresh

ok so lost my clip thing. idk if i need it but heres the pic. what should i do with my 2 power cables?


Untitled by omar240sx, on Flickr

also i got a distribution block off a bmw 325i with the 0 gauge wire. as you can see its a bit short.

Untitled by omar240sx, on Flickr

az_240

Chop them off that clip and extend them to the distribution block... Make sure you wrap everything or get a cover after you're finished. Don't want to start a fire...

Dudegonefresh

anyone recomend what disribution box i should go with? thanks

jamg

i can get you 17 feet of 0 G wire for about $30+shipping. pretty much beat every other price out there.

just get any type of car audio dist block. they all work the same.

Dudegonefresh

ok so i need help again. i just orderd a distribution box out put 1 1/0gauge and 4/8 inputs for 4 gauge? so i notice the power wire from the starter and alternator. how do i wire it up and the fuse box power wires? will i have to cut off the terminal thing off and plug them all into the distribution box? never done this before

Untitled by omar240sx, on Flickr


Untitled by omar240sx, on Flickr


Untitled by omar240sx, on Flickr

Dudegonefresh

oh and will a 150amp circuit breaker from autozone do the job?

the-rusty-240

Yes cut and strip all three wires and run them into the distribution box. Im running a 200amp fuse just fyi.

Dudegonefresh

sweet thanks. and hows that been going? any issues. will 150 work? cant find any at local autoparts store

the-rusty-240

Works great no problems yet. If you dont have a amp or any added electronics you should be fine with a 150amp.

Dudegonefresh

Well just a sony stereo and amp. Can I use my amp of I get a optimat battery? Or will it just short out?

the-rusty-240

Id go with a 200amp fuse. The optima wont change anything. The difrence between the optima and a regular battery is that it is closed cell.

Dudegonefresh

ok cool thanks. im relocating my fuse box by the bumper support and my bmw battery cable is a foot short.should i solder/extend 4 gauge wires to my fuse power wires and connect them to the distribution box?

fliprayzin240sx

Solder? LOL...please dont.

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the-rusty-240

Just buy a new power wire dont do it cheap.

Dudegonefresh

new 0 gauge wire?

the-rusty-240

Yup 0 guage amp wire works great got mine on amazon for cheap. Your gunna want about 25 feet.

Dudegonefresh

Does it matter what kind of 0 gauge? Or will any 0 gauge work? Looking at one on eBay.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/191137089467?nav=SEARCH