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Old 05-06-2005, 12:55 PM   #1
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Talking DIY Motor Mounts + Tranny mount

I got these motor mounts for free, I just had to pay $17 for shipping. So, yeah cost me $17.

Anyhow, these were susposed to be done weeks ago, but I keep forgetting the caulk gun.

So, first off, puchase a caulk gun, and 2 bottles of window weld/polyurethane. I went to my local Orchard Supply Hardware, and they were $7.xx+tax. I thought all I needed were one, but meh found out that wasn't enough. Also, get a pair of gloves, and a small box so that you don't get into a big mess.

Your clean untouched stock worn out mounts.


Just squeeze it all in, I used a sqaure piece of cardboard to mash it in there, and wipped off the excess to give it a cleaner look.



Tranny mount


I didn't think I was going to take pics, so that's why they're nearly completed. I'll have to wait a few days for them to "cure" then they'll go in my S14.
Total cost to redo 3 mounts about $40(with the purchase of old mounts).
Questions? Comments?
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:07 PM   #2
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can you use dry dog poo? if so, how long is the curing period for dog poo? j/k.

seroiusly V, i'm just interested to know how stiff it's gonna be. I ordered Kazama motor mounts but i friggin lost them !!!! i've looked eveywhere in my garage. wtf ..i may have to ghetto rig mine too.
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:15 PM   #3
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WTFeezy how do you loose mounts? Yeah I'll let you guys know how it feels as soon as they're installed.

My engine mounts don't seem too bad, but my tranny mount feels shot. Shifter goes wooble wooble.
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:41 PM   #4
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Nice but I think that you used the wrong polyurethane
Its supose to be window weld (black)
Used by glass shops
Anyway, nice writeup
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:53 PM   #5
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Well.. I wouldn't say it's wrong, but just not the one that most guys use.
If my shifter shakes worse than before..then yeah it's wrong. If it doesn't, then it's right for me.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:01 PM   #6
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I remember a post while back ago that the shifter moving was actually the car moving while the engine/tranny dont.
Anyway,you can always remove that jung and use the real stuff.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:08 PM   #7
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How do you know it's junk if you haven't used it?
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:15 PM   #8
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if you read the bottle it says "Remains Flexible"..but it may work anyways.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:32 PM   #9
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How can polyeurethane not be flexible?

3M's site.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

Quote:
Originally Posted by "3m"
Flow grade sealant developed to stop leaks and as a supplementary seal on all gasketless windshield and backlite car models. Flows easily into pinholes and suspected water leaks. Dries fast into flexible, rubbery seal.
I know 3M makes awsome products, this would have been my choice. But it wasn't available from where I bought it from.

Anyone else wanna shit on this thread? Go for it.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:34 PM   #10
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same thing different color... VAR how did u lose motor mounts guy?
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:38 PM   #11
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aaah you bought the wrong stuff!
that type is TOO SOFT! it wont be rock hard
you need the industrial type that is NOT for windows and such
need the one for concretes and what not
we tried taht and it was WAY TOO SOFT
get the right stuff (brown and yellow tube iiirc) and it is rock hard
thats what we (myself and maeda) used!!

that stuff you got WONT BE SOLID
mines like solid
interior resonates so much at traffic lights
motor doesnt move a bit (watched it on the dyno)
hehe.
it rules.
those solid mounts all 3 w/ a solid shifter (URAS shifter) its great. so nice. i love a solid drivetrain.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:39 PM   #12
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BAHHHHHHHHHHHh

Shit doesn't help if you don't provide a pic. As long as it was better than before I'll be happy.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:40 PM   #13
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maeda can get a pic, he did his a few days ago! we went to home depot and bought the right stuff. comes out a poopy brown color, looks like caramel, but dont eat it. ill call him to post it.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:43 PM   #14
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Homedepot is across the street from my work. I went to OSH cause it's closer to my house. As long as it's better than my stocks, is what I'm really concerned about(can't see why not). I still have 2 sets of motor mounts left, so I have plenty of mounts to test them on.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog Tech
Anyone else wanna shit on this thread? Go for it.


POOO!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitexsound
same thing different color... VAR how did u lose motor mounts guy?

?
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:58 PM   #16
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I used some Urethane caulking from the local hardware store on my car, and a friends car (both 4G civic's). Almost totally eliminated wheel hop

It doesn't matter that it won't get entirely hard, it fills the voids and stiffens it alot anyway. On my brothers car (AWD Talon) we filled the mounts with silicone because he daily drove the car. It is much softer, but still helps to eliminate engine movement, without as much vibration.

I think choice of a fill material is upto the person doing it. You can get harder or softer depending on your goals and use of the car.
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Old 05-06-2005, 03:39 PM   #17
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talkin about the grey one and black one var..........
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Old 05-06-2005, 04:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dousan_PG
aaah you bought the wrong stuff!
that type is TOO SOFT! it wont be rock hard
you need the industrial type that is NOT for windows and such
need the one for concretes and what not
we tried taht and it was WAY TOO SOFT
get the right stuff (brown and yellow tube iiirc) and it is rock hard
thats what we (myself and maeda) used!!

that stuff you got WONT BE SOLID
mines like solid
interior resonates so much at traffic lights
motor doesnt move a bit (watched it on the dyno)
hehe.
it rules.
those solid mounts all 3 w/ a solid shifter (URAS shifter) its great. so nice. i love a solid drivetrain.

You guys are missing a big point here. Solid or not, they're now at least complete instead of having large gaping holes in them. Anything is an upgrade, just because it's not concrete 'JDM dRiFt' solid doesn't mean it was pointless to do.
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Old 05-06-2005, 05:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pr240sx
Nice but I think that you used the wrong polyurethane
Its supose to be window weld (black)
Used by glass shops
Anyway, nice writeup
Windoweld is black, hondabond (the equivalent) is that color.

I used hondabond on a saturn and had good and not stiff results.

It's less stiff than fully poly and definitely metal, which people do but is insane on a daily driver.

I have kept moving my KTS Beta Coilovers down from 7/5 on the dampner settings (15 being hardest)....over the last 6 months to 1/1...
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitexsound
talkin about the grey one and black one var..........

i dont understand the question.. But when i replied to your question(how do you lose motor mounts) with a question mark >>> ?


what i meant was i dunno WTF happened. it was it a box. and it's gone. BTW do i know you?
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:46 PM   #21
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Ah. Sorry to tell you this smog tech but I bought that stuff first and tried it on a piece of plexi...

It turns into something very similar to caulking.... (go press the seals in your shower to see how 'stiff' this stuff gets)

This is the stuff dousan pointed out to me when giving me a ride to homedepot.

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Old 05-06-2005, 06:48 PM   #22
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Well, the s14 is a DD anyways, so I guess it's not too bad. I'll try the brown stuff on my s13, if I decide the stuff I'm using is too soft..
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:54 PM   #23
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yeah the brown goop
that stuff is STIFF
i love resonating interior..then again all i have is a dash and 2 seats with a steering wheel and shifter stuff..... hehe...
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Old 05-06-2005, 06:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dousan_PG
i love resonating interior..then again all i have is a dash and 2 seats with a steering wheel and shifter stuff..... hehe...
I don't, but according to a good source, if you only fill one it'll be plenty stiff and wont have any shaking....

But if it shakes... meh. I hardly drive my DD =)
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:40 PM   #25
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smog im looking to do this in the future. let me know how it turns out and how much vibration u get inside cabin please.
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Old 05-06-2005, 08:02 PM   #26
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I used the brown pooey looking stuff too, rock solid.
The interior shakes so much I can't tell if the phone is vibrating in my pocket!
Vision gets blurry when my heads pushed back against the headrest!

I love it!
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:13 PM   #27
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If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.

I personally do urethane mounts, but if you want hardcore, do aluminum.
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:03 PM   #28
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i bought some for my motor and tranny mounts... its was from home depot and it wasnt the 3m window weld shit its was the black and yellow tube.. it just is polyurathane... it took about 5 days to cure totally.. but it worked extremely well.. my buddy has an sr with his stock mounts and his car and mine are night and day..
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:16 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladman
If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.
thats not too bad of an idea...
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That first picture is totally bad ass.

It just screams, "Hey, I'm a fucking Christmas Tree. What are you gonna do about it?"
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Old 05-06-2005, 10:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gladman
If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.
thats not too bad of an idea... but wouldnt the aluminum start to cave from the weight?
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That first picture is totally bad ass.

It just screams, "Hey, I'm a fucking Christmas Tree. What are you gonna do about it?"
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