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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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02-19-2012, 08:53 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Jan 2012
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sr20det oil fedd line from block...leaking
Can the oil feed line bolt be accessed without having to remove the turbo and mani? And if i do have to remove the mani and turbo (dont want to cause of hard lines) do i need to replace the gaskets...there only 15k old. I just wanna get in there and see if its loose or what but i cant access it easily. It is getting progressively worse so i hoping its not the block cracking. I looked at it from where i can and its coming from the bottom of the bolt.
Thanks in advance Nick Info: Bottom mount s15 bb turbo |
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02-20-2012, 08:06 AM | #3 |
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Know that I looked at it I'm sure I can get to it if I remove a/c compressor, hot pipe, intake and oil dip stick.
Anyone have a size or part number for that washer? |
02-20-2012, 12:12 PM | #4 |
Post Whore!
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OEM Copper Crush Washers
15193-03E00 (larger) 15193-P9000 (smaller) The smaller ones are used for the oil feed line. The larger ones are used for the coolant lines.
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02-22-2012, 12:03 PM | #6 |
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So here is what has happened.
-The car was leaking from the oil feed line from the block. Minimal leak. -I then loosened the banjo bolt and tightened it up again. Huge leak. -Today i replaced the crush washers, tightened banjo to 20ft/pounds. Minimal leak again. Am i safe to say the hard line is bad? It seems to be leaking from right above the banjo bolt where the line gets a little smaller then goes to turbo. Cant really see that good in there. For some reason i used braided lines for everything else and used this one hard line for the oil feed. :/ |
02-22-2012, 12:25 PM | #8 |
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No...no...no... teflon tape is for pipe threads (tapered threads) the banjo bolt has parallel threads and seals with the crush washer...if you have changed the crush washers and its still leaking chances are the hard line is damaged.
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02-22-2012, 01:05 PM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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^^ is correct. OP i'm in the same boat as you. I even tried a longer banjo bolt and it still leaks. i'm down to just blocking it off and running a new feed line. I'm waiting for the weather to break so i can get wrenching again i miss driving my s13.
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02-23-2012, 02:08 PM | #12 |
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So yesterday I removed the whole hard line and both banjo bolts. Hard line has very microscopic hairline crack.
So I ordered braided line and hopefully that will last. Btw you can access everything by removing hot pipe, intake, and turbo outlet elbow. |
02-23-2012, 11:59 PM | #13 |
Post Whore!
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I just replaced my turbo the other day, I usually put a little bit of red thread locker on the oil feed line into the turbo. Just make sure you don't put too much, you don't want it seeping into the turbo that's for sure.
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02-29-2012, 08:01 AM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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wait did you remove the hardline without removing the manifold and turbo?
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03-02-2012, 06:53 PM | #16 |
Zilvia Member
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This is my oil line and adapters i have:
Can i use the black one (restricted) to go from the block to the braided line, and use the silver one (not restricted) to go from the braided line into the turbo? I really want to get rid of the banjo fittings all together. So the my second question is, what do i use on these fittings to seal them up? The braided line is tapered inside so do i just use thread lock to hold those tight? And then do i use pipe tape to seal the fittings onto the block and turbo? Thanks sorry for big pictures! |
11-15-2012, 11:44 AM | #17 |
where did you get those fittings killer skittle? i need one to run from the block to the feed line. if oyu could send me a link to where you got them or the size of the AN fitting thatd be awesome!
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11-15-2012, 04:41 PM | #18 |
Post Whore!
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Next time PM the guy, don't bump a 8month old thread with a question he may never look at.
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