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Old 10-17-2009, 06:03 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airhead View Post
some people just dont get it tsk tsk. your prob stuck on typical internet diy overfender threads.
this is the correct way to attach fiberglass to quater panels if your planning on molding the overfenders

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i'd understand if they were going to be molded.... but even those who've molded overs in the past dont seem to have 40+ rivets, unless they are also filling over those.

if it was me (which it isn't), i'd view the overs as somewhat disposable and if the car was meant to be running into shit, then why would u want to kill yourself in becoming hercules to remove overs =(

to the OP, i hope u work out this weird mis sized over situation
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:55 AM   #32
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im looking into molding my over fenders when the time comes. I was thinking about using a pneumatic hammer to make a recess the over fender would fit into so less filler would be used around the edges, ill lose like 2-3mm from the over fender but it should look super clean done this way. good info on the panel adhesive.
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Old 10-17-2009, 08:01 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by nathanong87 View Post
if it was me (which it isn't), i'd view the overs as somewhat disposable and if the car was meant to be running into shit
Cars are not MEANT to "run into shit".

Stupid fucking drifters.
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Old 10-17-2009, 08:41 AM   #34
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Cars are not MEANT to "run into shit".

Stupid fucking drifters.
I love you barry, ignorance is bliss though let them think that haha.
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Old 10-17-2009, 10:31 PM   #35
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molding is excessive.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:24 AM   #36
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what the fuck
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:41 PM   #37
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ill post a step by step once im done with molding process.

and it looks like VIS is sending me another set
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timtiminy View Post
im looking into molding my over fenders when the time comes. I was thinking about using a pneumatic hammer to make a recess the over fender would fit into so less filler would be used around the edges, ill lose like 2-3mm from the over fender but it should look super clean done this way. good info on the panel adhesive.
just sand the edges 80-40grit a bit no to thin or it will begin to crack.
you might want to cut the edges shorter so you will have more room for featheredging
or just mold them all around evenly from OF to door to quater glasswindow to rear light area.

they will look more natual this way. ill post up some pics once im done
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:35 PM   #39
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JVD is right though, you fit it to the wheels because you bow or compress them as you need for fitment. Not just slap them on .
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:43 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Cars are not MEANT to "run into shit".

Stupid fucking drifters.
I lol'd .
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:42 PM   #41
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just to finish off this thread.
finished wet sand and guide coat
everything is straight no low or hight spots
so smooth!

i have kouki aero so it will just go over the bottom sections





anyone have questions on how to ill be glad to help out.
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:44 PM   #42
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looks smooth. molding isnt my thing... i like to 'run into shit'

but it came out nice..

was it the set of fenders you got or just formed a bow when you put them on?
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:12 PM   #43
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Doesn't look like you cut too much off your stock quarter panels? 0_o
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:36 PM   #44
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i like rivets, 50 in each side, =)

But that looks real smooth, very nice.





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Old 12-03-2009, 10:00 PM   #45
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i slammed the rear low low on my 18's to make sure i cut high enough.
its good


wow thats alot of rivets. alot of work to cover those up....
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:09 PM   #46
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I contemplated slitting my wrists just now.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:14 PM   #47
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what are these kids thinking now a days?
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:16 PM   #48
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Not planning on covering them up. Seen many cars with overfenders in japan where the left em, looks just fine.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:35 PM   #49
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thatll rust for sure. why didnt you use a low grit scratch (40-80) and use an ahesion promoter? factory paint finish is sometimes suggested for new paint and other materials because its so tough. thats a bunch of bare metal to be concerned about.

besides if you were plannign to rivet, then whats the point of being so concerned with the glue job
btw im not a DIY thread reader and doer haha...1st hand experience at school and working in body shop
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:40 PM   #50
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Aluminum doesnt rust

and i did it cause i like the look of it.

Spent two years in japan, Been to ebisu circuit on many occasions and alot of people just leave the rivet look.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:46 PM   #51
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Aluminum doesnt rust

im talking about all that bare STEEL on your quarters
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:51 PM   #52
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Only bare steel is where the holes were drilled.

and eh, it'll be ok.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:06 PM   #53
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thatll rust for sure. why didnt you use a low grit scratch (40-80) and use an ahesion promoter? factory paint finish is sometimes suggested for new paint and other materials because its so tough. thats a bunch of bare metal to be concerned about.

besides if you were plannign to rivet, then whats the point of being so concerned with the glue job
btw im not a DIY thread reader and doer haha...1st hand experience at school and working in body shop
there is no more panel adheisive i got a another set of VIS fenders and i had to re do it again.

same here alot experiece at school no body shop but i do all my work my self.

and yes i do know about rust and metal im not an idiot to leave it to metal
there is many things to treat bare metal keeping it from rusting.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:10 PM   #54
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heres a nice video on a widebody
video get me pumped for some body work lol
YouTube - VeilSide RX-7 Fortune Model in Dubai
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:20 PM   #55
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oh and that panel adhesive
is a strong epoxy you just have to spread it and cover the bare metal
epoxy pretty much water prof rust free if you cover correctly.
that picture i didnt show

i only have 40min work time or it will harden like a rock no time to take pics for that lol


alot of cars today use that on roof skins,1/4 panels,ect. before they spot weld.
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Old 12-04-2009, 12:38 AM   #56
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pics of said proper fitting wheels. i hope you redeem yourself with said wheels because so far this is not going well. i also hope you didnt chop up some probly decent quarters just to run wheels that would have cleared stock body with a bit of camber like 70% of the cars posted up around here.
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:58 AM   #57
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Quote:
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oh and that panel adhesive
is a strong epoxy you just have to spread it and cover the bare metal
epoxy pretty much water prof rust free if you cover correctly.
that picture i didnt show

i only have 40min work time or it will harden like a rock no time to take pics for that lol


alot of cars today use that on roof skins,1/4 panels,ect. before they spot weld.
i got ya, as long as it covers all the metal, epoxy would work good
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Old 12-05-2009, 01:20 AM   #58
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oh my , that doesn't look good
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Old 12-06-2009, 11:08 AM   #59
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I order B-magic 50mm overs and they were awsome only used 14 rivits per side, did not have any problems puting them on!
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:01 AM   #60
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This is why I refuse to use over fenders.
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