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10-17-2016, 02:08 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Z32 brake swap issue - How do you torque this nut?
Hey guys, how do you torque the big nut on the back without this flange spinning on ya? The washers I'm using as spacers are letting the flange spin around and actually interfere with the drum mechanism.
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10-17-2016, 02:56 PM | #2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Is it bending that metal lip as you tighten it? I recall my anchor bolt also twisting when I did the swap years ago. However, I cut the tab off the Z32 hub to space out the anchor bolt, so there was more surface area pressing against that lip and it didn't bend, I torqued the thing down to 100+ lb-ft too. Perhaps you could stick a screwdriver in there while tightening.
Also, it's interesting to hear the washers are interfering with the brake operation. How exactly? Are the brake shoes coming in contact with them? The washer method has always been a popular option for spacing out the shorter type of anchor bolt. |
10-17-2016, 04:41 PM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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Just a quick question - Is this for a Z32 upright without the lobe and mating hole? I did the rear e-brake swap on my S14, and none of the guides mentioned anything about spacing out the anchor bolt. My S14 uprights had the press fit hole for the anchor bolt, and the nut locked down tight. Actuation of the e-brake seems to be correct with the assembly on the car, but I haven't run it with the brake swap yet.
Did I miss something in the install guides? Or is this a very specific situation where the spacer washers are needed? Otherwise, if there is a hole in the splash shield that lines up with the empty hole in the lobe, I'd stick a bolt through there and into the empty hole. That should keep it aligned while tightening, and once you get to a certain point you should be able to torque the anchor bolt nut without it turning. |
10-17-2016, 07:06 PM | #6 |
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FWIW I've fudged with just holding the anchor with a flathead and tightening the bolt.
Obv. the right answer is to buy the right anchor but inevitable you discover you have the wrong parts while the car is disassembled and you're halfway through. |
10-17-2016, 07:19 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Ahh ha! Thank you very much, any idea how to make sure I'm getting the right one? Is there a specific year of Z32 to order it for?
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Silvia, built 5.3 turbo, 4l80e, [email protected] |
10-17-2016, 07:25 PM | #8 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Missouri
Age: 41
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Actually the washers aren't interfering with anything its just the ears of the anchor bolt spinning around and hitting that lip of the dust shield. When they do that the actual brake rotor won't sit flat against the hub either, it hits that ear.
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Silvia, built 5.3 turbo, 4l80e, [email protected] |
10-17-2016, 08:17 PM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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Ah, alright, after a bit of searching I realized what was going on. It does look like you have the right splash shield for the shortened anchor bolt.
Maybe this thread will help? http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=251492 |
10-17-2016, 09:40 PM | #11 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Quote:
I actually ran into this problem the first time I ever did the Z32 ebrake swap. Didn't notice that the anchor had turned after tightening, installed the wheels, tightened the lug nuts and the wheel would not turn at all. It wasn't until I took everything apart again and found the exact problem you just had. Just had to straighten out the anchor, hold it in place with a screwdriver (probably why I recommended that above) and tighten it back down. |
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10-18-2016, 08:33 AM | #12 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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