ceramicus

alot of people have been postin lately i see about the common idle/stallout problem that the 240 seems to have. please post experiences and how to fix exactly. on guy on the boards wants to get rid of his 240 for good because of this is iritating him.

i have or had the same problem before, sometimes it would idle funny when i stop and sometimes not. i thought about changin fuel filter but didnt, and my air filter needs changin but i was too lazy. but what i did do differently is use 93 octane fuel for awhile and the problem after driving about 3 tanks full has finally stopped. i still need to change air filter though and fuel filter.

S13Grl

Well, I just put an Injen intake on in August, I ALWAYS use 93 Octane fuel, I've used fuel additives once only, and that didn't help. I've thought about looking at my fuel pump and injectors, and I think that's what'll happen today. My car is in the shop because my batter/alternator is shot. The car won't start unless there's a portable "Carry & Jump" battery involved, so it's in the shop. I think I"ll call and have them test my fuel injectors at the same time.
Anyway, yeah, my car idles extremely roughly. RPMs drop if I'm sitting on the brakes, the car almost shuts down if I slow down in 2nd gear, RPMs bounce a lot. So... it can also be the idler controller. I'm gonna try resetting my ECU one of these days, see if that changes anything.
I don't know what else, I'll let you guys know later today what I was told by the Nissan Shop.

drifterx

i think the idle problem is common..... i got the idle problem to leave for some time now.... i change the intake, fuel filter, spark plugs, and cleaned my fuel injectors...
the idle would dip to like 400-500 when u stop and clutch right?
does that sound like u?

S13Grl

Yeah, if I slow down to like 10 or five in 2nd gear (brake only, no clutch) it dips all the way down before I shift it to neutral. It bugs me too much. My boyfriend's '96 doesn't dip below 750rpm, his Sentra SE-R doesn't dip before 750, it's just me. *sniff*...

ceramicus

yeah i hate that idle prob, thank god it doesnt happen anymore to me, but it may start up again, hopefully not. see what the shop says girl.

S13Grl

They said it's both the alternator and the battery. Gonna get both new parts in tonight. I'll see that. They charge too much to test the fuel injectors, so I'm gonna have a friend of mine do it for me. I'll post back.

ceramicus

you should buy a multimeter  80 dollars and you can check everything easy and fast. you can check wires and spark plug wires, rpm, fuses, battery, engine off current draw, voltage drops, alternator, starter, battery load, fuel injectors, oxygen sensors, temperature sensors, throttle sensors, MAF sensors, anything electrical! i like to do this myself to save money and learn about my car.

to replace one fuel injector wwill cost you 250, but the part only costs 130, two screws later and you can pop one in.  

off topic, hey i read earlier that your yugoslavian, hehe me too, well part.

S13Grl

Cool <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>. You speak any of it?

ceramicus

eh, you dont want me to post them dirty words now do ya,

no i dont, not much, i hate it to cause when i go out to byzantiums and they play yugo music i cant understand whilst my friends all jump around singing to the songs

TRM02

Hey guys &quot;BAD INJECTORS&quot; I have heard this all the time with Nissans. There motors are great but why do the injectors go out so quickly I have no Idea. Injectors are the number one reason why Nissan start having the problems you guys are having. Easy fix you can do one or two things.

1. Either swap out the injectors for new or performance ones.

2. You can have RC Engineering service them.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">
Standard Services

The purpose of cleaning and flow-testing is to 1) remove any contaminants inside or outside the injector that impede fuel flow or degrade fuel spray pattern 2) to accurately measure each injector's fuel flow ability and 3) acquire quantitative data on injector performance the vehicle owner can use in matching injectors or tuning the engine's fuel system.

Any set of fuel injectors will benefit from RC Engineering's clean and flow service, This is even true of new injectors because the individual-injector and system-total fuel flows must be known for performance tuning purposes. It is not uncommon for a set of original equipment (OE) injectors to have an unacceptably wide range of fuel flow and it's possible to even have new injectors that do not function properly. RC's standard testing process identifies those problematic injectors.

The test process is as follows: first, your injectors are installed on RC Engineering's custom- designed-and-built, computer-controlled injector flow-testing equipment. A unique, non-flammable, gasoline-like test fluid is pumped at a precisely-controlled pressure through the injectors while they are pulsed by injector-drivers built into the equipment. The volume of fuel passed through the injector is accurately measured for a set amount of time and from those figures, fuel flow is derived. During the flow- test, the injector spray patterns are visually inspected and analyzed by RC's technicians using both bright room and strobe lights.

After the initial flow-test, your injectors are transferred to an ultrasonic cleaning machine and connected to injector drivers. They are submerged in cleaning solution and pulsed while being subjected to ultrasonic waves. The combination of the solution and the ultrasound aggressively clean the internal and external parts of the injectors.

Finally, the now-clean injectors are reinstalled on the flow-tester and run again. At the conclusion of the test, a printed report is produced. This report lists: fuel flow rates (in pounds-per-hour and cubic centimeters per minute) before and after cleaning, and spray pattern assessments for each injector tested. Also included is the &quot;system balance&quot; number which is the flow difference, expressed in a percentage, between the injectors having the highest and lowest flow rates amongst the lot of injectors tested. The system's total fuel delivery in lbs/hr. and cc/min along with a computation of potential horsepower at three different brake specific fuel consumption rates concludes the report.

The charge for RC Engineering's standard clean-flow-balance service is $24.00 per injector. If overnight shipping is used, the turnaround time is three days.
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

$24.00 per injector
4 = $96.00 + shipping

Swaping out them is also not very hard to do. Should talk about an hour of your time.

ceramicus

maybe that could be why higher octane fuel seems to be workin, cleanin the injectors. next week im onna take them out and look at em

TRM02

I heard the some american car shop will clean them out for you...But I have heard to many bad story about that I would never do it. &nbsp;My brother bought some new injectors from RC and I know people that had RC service there are no problem 30 years doing this you ahve to learn a thing or two

chickenmanq

My truck always idles rough. &nbsp;Not too bad, it bounces between 700-800 rpm at stoplights, but its always fine once it gets some throttle. &nbsp;I think it might be the computer trying to regulate mods. &nbsp;(Intake, exhaust.) &nbsp;Doesn't change when I go down to low altitudes. &nbsp;Just keep putting 87 octane in, every once in a while I throw a can of octane booster in to raise the temp a bit, burn out the carbon, but most of the time it actually runs better on lower octane. &nbsp;Don't ask me why. &nbsp;It doesn't make sense. &nbsp;85 octane in Montana is when it runs best. &nbsp;

I think the thing that helps the most is extended 3 or 4000 rpm blasts down the highway for a good while. &nbsp;

drifterx

hmmm i heard some company will clean them and make them better than stock by enlarging the nozzle....
i think it might be RC

BlankFlip

half the time it's idling bad due to bad alternator, battery, ecu, or a combination of these.

S13Grl

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from ceramicus on 1<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>8 pm on Nov. 14, 2001
eh, you dont want me to post them dirty words now do ya,

no i dont, not much, i hate it to cause when i go out to byzantiums and they play yugo music i cant understand whilst my friends all jump around singing to the songs
</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

I don't really go to Serbian places, but I've been here for five years only.
Are you coming out to that meet/club thing we're having on Saturday?

I'd make sure that you always get the best fuel filters, preferably from Nissan itself. I've talked to a Nissan mechanic before and he said a lot of the times it's because of dirt from the tank reaching the injectors. Just a thought.

gh6o6

i definitly cange the filter and run one of those cleaners through. &nbsp;if that doesent work raise the idle- i can go check my service book if you want.

found this sumwhere on the net...it's kinda on and off topic...but i wish you can fix the stallin prob like this..hehehehe

Three engineers were riding in a car: a mechanical engineer, a chemical engineer, and a Microsoft software engineer. The car stalled, and they rolled it to the side of the road.

The mechanical engineer popped the hood, looked in and said &quot;Look. The drive belt is loose. All we have to do is tighten it up and the car will work just fine.&quot;

The chemical engineer replied &quot;No, that's all wrong. The problem is fuel contamination. We have to drain the fuel, filter it, and then everything will be A-OK.&quot;

The Microsoft software engineer told the other two &quot;No, I've seen this problem before. We have to get back in the car, close all the windows, shut down the car, get out, get back in, start up the car, open all the windows, and then it will run.&quot;

S13Grl

Haha! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> Funny!!!

_______________________
An attempted solution for my idle problem:

Alternator &amp; Battery replaced, new belts and new oil, but the problem is still there... So, checking the fuel injectors next.

Mennis

I had this problem checked out at the dealer and they said it was the throttle positioning sensor. &nbsp;i was too cheap to replace it but when the problem occurs, i pop the hood, and if i fiddle with the harness and wires, it usually goes away. &nbsp;probably a loose connection somewhere

S13Grl

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Mennis on 10:49 am on Nov. 15, 2001
I had this problem checked out at the dealer and they said it was the throttle positioning sensor. i was too cheap to replace it but when the problem occurs, i pop the hood, and if i fiddle with the harness and wires, it usually goes away. probably a loose connection somewhere</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

Awesome! How cheap was this to fix?

TRM02

man I forgot about that...My cousin has a 94 SE-R and it had the same thing I belive the part is about $40 but a pain to install back and get it in the correct spot...I would say buy some new screws also cause chance are that the one on it now are going to get striped...well at least his did.

ahh i finally got my car fixed...no more stalling...&quot;mass air flow sensor&quot; was the problem...don't know it broke or whatever...but no more stalling...oh yeah and how did all of you guys who ever had the stalling/idle problem get the problem in the first place..with me i was doing the brake/burnout...did it three times and then this problem started...hopefully this repair will end it and not just fix it for a week or so..cause if it did the shop promise me they'll fix it again for free...only had the car for a day so i'll see what happens in the next few days...peace out to you guys/gals...

ceramicus

ill check the mass air flow sensor to see if its ok......i have also done the connector under the hood thing where you shake it or take it off the metal post its on next to the negine and that seemed to mae it work too. could also be bad connection

jupiterl

I can pretty sure it's the problem from the MAF. Just like many other car with MAF, most of them have idling problem when the miliage get higher. It just work like the one on Eclipse, Audi/VW 1.8T, if you put in a BOV, you will have idling problem. Therefore, my conclusion is that if there is just a little thing goes wrong with the MAF ( invalid signal from the MAF ) will affect the idling.