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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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07-29-2012, 10:26 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York
Age: 29
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Need Opinions on this RB26 oil pump
Hey guys. So i picked up a rb26 block last month to swap with my other block which had damaged cylinder walls. I had a new crank, bearings and pump to put in it, so i had to remove the lower end. This is where things start to go south. The lower timing gear on the crank was frozen on. I could see marks where someone tried to take it off, but didnt have any luck.
So at this point I started attacking the gear, with anything you can think of. Several different pullers, heat, hammers, even a 4 foot snap on prybar which was just flexing. This thing wasnt coming off at all. So i decided that i didnt care for the oil pump since I have 2 oem ones and 1 bnib n1 pump laying around. So i took a chisel and started forcing it inbetween the oil pump and the gear to wedge them apart. AFTER 3 FUCKING HOURS OF HAMMERING THIS SHIT, the gear finally came off, revealing that someone had definitelly forced it onto the crank. Part of the tip of the crank had been grinded so that it would be easier to slip it on. In the process i chewed up the front of the oil pump pretty bad. And broke off some chunks of the timing belt shield on the bottom. Like I said, not one fuck was given because I had another pump lined up for this motor anyway. (n1) So i then proceed to take off the oil pan, and then the oil pump, and to my horror pull out this oil pump. A greddy oil pump. This makes my n1 pump look like absolute shit. Obviously id like to use it, but the question comes if I should really trust it, if you saw how i was banging on it you would understand. The pump itself doesnt show any damage besides the chunks that broke off, but those can easilly be welded back on. I try turning it but it definitely shows alot more resistance compared to my other pumps, unless thats because its made with tighter tolerances. When I take off the back cover, part of it where the gear touches is worn down to metal. Thats not from me, so I assume its normal wear. I see too many horror stories with n1 pumps, and im really nervous of using mine. I need this car to be reliable and i cant afford a baller pump. So tell me zilvia, what do you think. And i dont need to hear from the assholes about how i fucked up this pump, im over it. |
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07-29-2012, 10:41 AM | #2 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Misawa, Japan
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Possibly swap internals with an OEM pump?
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後輪駆動車1番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
07-29-2012, 10:46 AM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York
Age: 29
Posts: 130
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
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Gears are a different size from both the stock and n1 pump. It can be made to work, but id have to have a machinist expand and deepen the cavity in a oem pump. If theres any machinist on zilvia up to that challange, feel free to contact me!
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07-31-2012, 07:52 PM | #4 |
Nissanaholic!
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DAAAAMMNN ,.... The only way to chekh is open it clean it,then get Dykem & color each gear a different color,then put it back together,color the back plate with flat black. Then put it on a short block ,& spin it for a lil while... take it off & look at the wear patterns. Im sure you can figure out the rest.....
I hope you didnt hammer left, right,left,right. Binding it up on the nose of the crank.....its probally usable just file & clean up the main seal bore & all those prying marks. Hard to say without fealing it spin, if its grittty/notchy feeling then it prolly no good
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07-31-2012, 10:37 PM | #6 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orange Park, FL (Jax)
Posts: 1,468
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that boss where the front main seal resides is mangled city. Drive the front main seal out and clean up the bore.
If you can just swap covers then do it. If not; that boss where the front main seal resides is mangled city. Drive the front main seal out and clean up the bore. Also remove the pump out the back and check to see if you dented in the machined space where the pump rides. If so then you've removed the clearance out of the pump and it will probably fail.
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08-01-2012, 09:56 AM | #7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: earth
Age: 37
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yeah that gear should of slid on and off nice and smooth. Considering how expensive that oil pump is and how sensitive rb26's are to proper oil pump contact I understand where you coming from.
to be totally honest, I wouldn't use the crank or the pump...If you were hitting the crank snout area, the first place that holds resistance would be the drive gear and collar. you can always disassemble the pump and check its clearance on the mating surface...maybe have crank and drive gear checked at a machine shop too. I've done months of research before settling on a Nitto oil pump,
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08-07-2012, 11:31 PM | #8 | ||||
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York
Age: 29
Posts: 130
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
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Update:
Heres what it looked like with the cover off. You can see some wear on it, ive only spun it a handful of times, so I know I didnt do this. Heres what the gear looks like. Took the front seal off, you can see where a chunk came off. Quote:
I had a chisel on each side, and id hammer each one equally out one gear at a time to push the gear out. As far as the spinning goes, its very hard to spin by hand, but if you put it on the crank it spins, just fairly hard. Doesnt bind in any spot, or grind. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Look how someone previously grinded the tip so that the gear could be forced on. And on the second pic, theres a trail the gear made coming off. I decided I dont even wanna bother with it, it can be used if you machine a stock housing to replace the one that got fucked up here. Ill let someone else do that, once I sell it. I got some spool gears for my n1 pump. They should hold up decent since my rb is pretty much stock with a few upgrades. Eventually I wanna go with the tomei pump. Thanks for the help guys! |
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08-11-2012, 06:09 PM | #9 |
Nissanaholic!
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Yea it looks like who ever had it befor you,had fitment issues,& didnt take the time to make it all fit. Then forced it all together,thats why you had the problems trying to remove... Damn
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MR JACKSON. |
10-05-2012, 05:24 AM | #10 |
Hello Chrischeezer,
I read that you decided to go for the Nitto Oil pump. How is it going so far? I am a newbie and just got an RB26 engine for my 1991 R32 which I need to change the Oil Pump. For my budget, I can opt for either Jun or Nitto but not sure which is suitable. Any advice? Thanks, Kit |
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10-06-2012, 12:09 AM | #11 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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