itsjustdaphne

I have a S15 sr20 With the following mods
Tomei 256cams
nismo 550cc injectors
Aermotive regulator
Stock manifold
GT2876r turbo .64rear housing
PBM cobra downpipe
PowerFC using map/iat

For some odd reason i cant seem to break 300whp on the mustang dyno at my work, My car is tuned for 22psi and im at 292hp and 299tq, The tune is somewhat aggressive but there is no knock present , makes me want to switch to e85 to try and break 300 lol
I seriously thought this turbo would take me into the middle 300s not high 200s -_-, Does somthing sound off , or are the numbers alright for a mustang dyno.
Heres a video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4TG...ature=youtu.be

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

e1_griego

My gt2876 did 345 @ 15ish psi on a dyno jet many moons ago. Seems like something is up with your setup.

itsjustdaphne

What rear exhaust housing did you have?
I also think I may have had a boost leak during the dyno
Not noticeable because map sensor...I know I have boost leaks now because for some odd reason my turbo loves to leak between the compressor housing/center and bolts

I also only made 270/280 on the s15 t28 on 20psi. Maybe its just the low reading dyno

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

ultimateirving

Injectors might be holding you back, pretty small for 22psi

__________________
Z32 with lq4 swap
Desert Street Scene || Dssevents.com

e1_griego

.64 housing, 740s, Tial 38mm ewg on stock manifold.

Still seems low for 20psi, but 550s are not big enough to get to the numbers you want.

itsjustdaphne

Im thinking of going tial ewg. 1000ccs or bigger and e85 and see where that lands me, my work will start to carry e85 in stock soon.

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

Dboyizmlg

Not bashing on the tuner, but that could also be your low number reading.

itsjustdaphne

I Dont think its the tuner because if we add just 1 more degree of timing it starts to knock.. and afrs are good as well. He isnt very familar with sr20s but he does alot of GTRS and high hp evos all the time. Tuning is tuning in the end its all about learning the software.

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

[email protected]

Aside from mustang dyno's reading low, looks like the numbers could be about 30Hp lower than usual. Could be a little shy on the timing..although he says its "aggressive"

itsjustdaphne

Ive watched him tune the car the whole way lol. Its the most aggressive we can go without knocking. Also like I mentioned above I think its mainly because of the massive boost leak from the turbo now. Im thinking it was present during the dyno time just at a smaller level.. pos turbo

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

S14DB

Hard to hear anything from a rear shot. Engine bay video during a pull it would be better.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

cotbu

What gear was the dyno performed in?
And 22psi from a gt2876r and 550cc injectors is a tuner fail. Maybe not with a 4bar program. Any who...22psi from a 2876r is 400hp territory, so 380hp on a mustang dyno all day!!


Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

itsjustdaphne

here you go https://youtu.be/YqsJTlae0-0
3rd/ 4th gear, I know I need to step up injectors but still I dont see how I didn't break 300 whp with the 22psi even on the 550s, Ive been fighting this boost leak issue between the compressor housing and the center plate ever since I got the turbo, I thought I fixed it, dynoed the car, and then the issue came back and now I cant even hit full boost, Im going to remove the turbo.. again.. and try to fix this issue.

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

Kingtal0n

A boost leak will do that. The energy required to spin the compressor comes from the exhaust. What happens if you leak at the compressor? The wheel now needs to spin faster to support the additional flow rate, which puts an additional demand on the exhaust side, increasing exhaust manifold pressure, which reduces cylinder fill, which reduces torque. Not to mention that at higher flow rates the compressor may run off it's map, and the speed of the air leaving the outlet may max, and the temperature may rise significantly.

Do you by any chance monitor any of the fundamental details? You would catch this data with,
1. Intake air temps
2. exhaust gas temps
3. exhaust gas pressure
4. compressor wheel speed


also, you should not tune an engine to it's bleeding edge for ignition timing looking for max power. let the turbo make the power, remove the timing.
I bet the BTDC on your engine is somewhere in the 14-18* BTDC range. It should be about 10* instead.
Why dont we tune to the bleeding edge? Because the load of the dyno roller does NOT simulate the road. The road changes load, you use different gears, sometimes boost in 5th, you go up hills, you acquire varying quality of pump gas through the years. Having it on the edge means that next time you are going up a hill or have a bad tank of gas you will lose a piston or head gasket.

Kingtal0n

I made these to help people understand what is going on





A. notice it is very easy to over time an engine, because you can just keeping adding timing all day and the egt will stay down, and the torque may even increase due to pressure spikes.
B. You (could) set the dyno smoothing to zero, uncorrected, and look for the wavy, jagged peak torque that signifies too much timing. Compare with boost logs to verify this is not due to wastegate fluctuation. This is not always guaranteed to work but it is something to consider.

C. You can remove timing until EGT begins to climb, and torque begins to drop notably, then add back a few degress and you are done.
D. Usually 11-12* BTDC is still too much. i have tripped the knock sensor on several sr20 engines with just 12* of timing BTDC through peak torque. I recommend starting with 9* and adding 2* to make sure you barely notice any difference in torque output, and see that EGT stays about the same (it may go down 30*F) then back to 9* and lock it down. Bigger camshafts reduce VE through 4000rpm so more timing is acceptable. 256* duration poncams do not count as "big". I would say anything 264+ and you can throw another degree or two of timing at it.

jaxshawn

that stock manifold has become restrictive i'm sure a tubular would break the 300 mark as it sits now.....i'll tell freddie to buy my mani

S14DB

Doesn't sound like a boost leak. But, that's only if it is blatant. Doesn't mean you don't have a turbine or boost leak. Something is keeping you back.

You are using a PowerFC, do you have the commander? Even with the software you should be able to see your duty cycle of your injectors. I have similar injectors and I am at 80% duty cycle @ 14psi. I was maxing them out and hitting the PFC's limiter before I was tuned. Was below 300hp too.

It would be nice to see you dyno charts with HP/TQ, AFR and any other data.

Where is your boost gauge and wastegate hooked upto?
Nice sales pitch but, this has been proven wrong by multiple people.
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=124925

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

jaxshawn

I know stock mani is good for a decent amount I was just messing with op bc her husband texted me the other day about my mani

itsjustdaphne

Litttle late on this but i found my issue, the exhaust wheel was chewed up before i bought this turbo (2nd hand) hence why it was so laggy(4700rpm) full boost
and low hp numbers. I went away and got FIC 1000cc injectors, mazworx manifold, and a gtx3071r, time for 400whp

__________________
@ddaapphh | @spectuned

cotbu

Good stuff, but that's a 450hp setup!

Sent from a Highly Boosted Note 4!!!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"