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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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10-31-2007, 09:46 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2005
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Advanced Weight Reduction Questions
S14 SE chassis. The car is driven on the street but is mainly used for grudge racing at the local drag strip (aka people who think their 80k Viper is fast).
For starters I did all the normal stuff like removing the interior, radio, a/c, heater, carpet, wiring, jack, spare, bumper support, airbags, sound deadening, titanium exhaust (ok ok, not normal), light wheels, coilovers, seats, ect. The sunroof will be plugged soon along with getting a lighter hood. I know there are CF doors, but come on, $1600? I'd rather spend that on internals. With that said, I've heard a couple guys talking about cutting out the metal supports in the doors. I think they're referring to the extra metal skin that's on the door. Does anyone have pictures of someone that has done this? The ability of the plastic door pieces going on is not an issue. Also, exactly what parts of the interior metal can be cut out... one guy said something about the metal in between body panels? Without going to a CF trunk lid, what if any can be trimmed from the trunk? If anyone has done this stuff pictures would be greatly appreciated. My RB is a fatass
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10-31-2007, 09:57 PM | #3 |
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Pointless.
Add more boost/power.
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10-31-2007, 10:04 PM | #4 |
Zilvia Junkie
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That's coming as well.
However I'd like to have an edge over my main competition. This guy happens to have a boat load of money for modding his RB26 240sx, but is keeping full weight. If I can drop another 100lbs plus the ~270lbs that I've already pulled out, that might be enough. It's free performance, I'll take it.
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11-01-2007, 01:41 AM | #7 |
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+++++1
its all about the power
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11-01-2007, 03:18 AM | #9 |
Nissanaholic!
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how does more power make help you turn or stop faster?
as for what to take out, it depends how hardcore you are. lightweight battery, switching to manual windows and mirrors, or aftermarket carbon mirrors. don't forget to take out all the wiring for the electronics you remove, a pain in the ass, but it adds up. for the doors, i think people are refering to the metal framework just behind the interior door panel. if you're really dedicated, you can remove the door panel, the interior framework, fix the window, and cover the opening with a sheet of aluminum.
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11-01-2007, 03:41 AM | #11 | |
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^^^LOLOL!!
messagelength.
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11-01-2007, 07:36 AM | #15 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
Like that's practical. Might as well just get a fox body. The lexan glass and fixing the window, that would suck for a car that's still driven on the street. So basically cutting metal out of the door isn't a popular modification haha. I think I'll just get some door diagrams and see which parts are necessary for the window mechanism.
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11-01-2007, 07:49 AM | #16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Riveted lexan windows fuddawindoe, otherwise you pretty much gotta keep everything inside the door, whereas with lexan you could just chop everything out except the latch that keeps the door closed. Rivet a NACA duct in there if you want airflow to the cabin.
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11-01-2007, 08:58 AM | #18 | |
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CF doors are not needed, and in my opinion a waste of good money better spent elsewhere. We just finished our first round of parts for factory Scion's speed world challenge team. And we took doors that were 60lb's (weighed with no glass) and took them down to 21lb's! All the while keeping stock door frame and hinges. If you have ever seen CF doors at the track on a hot day, it's sad. Bad investment. I am under the gun right now to finish up our S14 for next weeks time attack finals, but the car comes back from paint tomorrow. I will do a photo included step by step write up for the forum on how to do this while maintaining excellent door integrity. There is a trick to it. I will tell you though, that your oem door skins are approx 10lb's each. I don't have enough
time to make door skin molds right now, but i will have those next month. This is going to knock the carbon fiber door crowd into the ground, permanently. I will subscribe to this thread, and post my link next week. Quote:
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11-01-2007, 08:59 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
The bars and metal you're removing take a lot of the initial blunt trauma so your body doesn't have to. I'm sure stripping out all the amenities hasn't made your car that much more awesome to drive on the street either.
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11-01-2007, 09:16 AM | #21 |
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My old S14 got down to 2530lbs, and that's without cutting sheetmetal except for the forward parts of the frame rails (where they stick out past the core support) and the front fenderwells. I also had all the OE sound deadening and a full interior. I could have shaved another 100 pounds had I been really serious. Redoing or making a custom wiring harness reduces a few pounds. Aluminum uprights, flywheel, driveshaft all do a little bit. I was even going to go as far as cutting out the spare tire well and laying a thin sheet of tin over the opening, though it would have created some drag back there.
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11-01-2007, 09:34 AM | #22 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
HTML Code:
http://www.peak-performance.net/content/view/210/132/ HTML Code:
http://www.importmodifications.com/240sxweightred.html |
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11-01-2007, 10:12 AM | #24 |
Post Whore!
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Street driven = Leave it alone
Track Only = Tear it apart, strip it, and add even more power. I drove a stripped car on the street for awhile... it sucks balls. lol
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11-01-2007, 10:16 AM | #25 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Ahh classic Zilvia... and for your information, I'm not a fatass. I tip the scales right at about 150lbs. Actually, I like it. I'd rather listen to the sound of a RB going through the gears than some asshole singing about his problems. The racing seats are a little stiff, but that's just fine with me.
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11-01-2007, 10:23 AM | #26 |
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That shit is retarded. The rear seat combined does not weigh anywhere near 39lbs. Maybe if a small child is sitting in it.
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