S13_SX

Hey guys whats up, this is my first post over here..Im usually on Nico but I after reading some things on here I trust you guys over them. Alright so heres the deal. I had just sold my old car and came across a guy who was selling his SR'd S13 CHEAP because he needed to pay tuition or he was gonna get the boot. So on to the car. 1990 240, red top SR, MBC, apexi N1 3", 3" down pipe, 3" test pipe. K&N. The kid said the car needed timed and tuned. So I get it, drive it home and go to work. Before I do anything I give the car a compression test..Everything is really consistent, I got 120 all the way accross. That seems a little low though Anyone care to tell me whats up? Also the car is running jank as hell on 3 cyl. cuz the guy before broke off a 10mm bolt so the coil pack is flapping up and down on the #1 cylinder and the car didn't come with a coil pack cover so I can't do the "fold up some newspaper and stuff it under the coil pack cover" quick fix. Also the car is really hard to start, could that be cuz the coil pack not really connecting? To start the car I have to crank it then give it some gas. Another thing, the car is definately running rich. I have an SAFC in the car but everything is on stock settings. Also the timing is way off. like all the way to the advanced side(I believe) of its range of turning. My timing light is broken so im taking it to a friends house tomorrow to set it to 15. And were gonna try and lean the car out and hope for the best. So what do you guys think is wrong with this motor? I also think I did the compression test wrong. I just drove over to a buddies house, parked it, bull shitted for 10ish minutes. Then popped the hood and unplugged the plug, threaded the gauge on, gave it a quick crank, got the reading, put the plug back in and moved on. Could that cause a mis-read or what? We then tested my buddies turbo'd eg coupe the same way and it read a consistent 180 all the way accross. So in turn his numbers seemed 20-30 too high. Mine read 20-30 too low. It was snowing tonight so we didn't do much besides that. Also the valve cover gasket(I think) is bad, that or the valve seals because there was oil in the spark plug well. That eventually fouled the plugs out causing the car to mis,back fire, and shoot a fire ball out. So I said whoa, parked the car had a buddie drive up to The Zone and got new plugs. So the way the cars driving is this. Its hard to start, like I said you got to crank it and give it some gas. It idles rough and high goes up and down from 1000-1200ish. And everyonce in while driving the car bogs for a second. other then that it pulls hard, spools fine. Someone please tell me my rings aren't fried

sr240mike

How cheap is cheap? I got mine in similar condition for $4k with aftermarket suspension, and a few other mods.

Search for compression test at the top of the page. More than likely the previous owner never got it running right and that is the reason he's selling it. That's how I got mine. Here is a list of things you should do before and after you buy it:

Before:

-Check plugs
-Pull valve cover and see how gunked up it is in there, is there scoring on the cam lobes?
-Check ecu codes by turning the knob on the ecu with the ignition in the on position.
-Compression test while warm, fuel pump fuse removed, fuel pressure relieved and throttle wide open.
-Look for crappy wiring job, wires that are disconnected, anything out of the ordinary.
-Check all piping for boost leaks.
-Search for a factory service manual and download it. Search for how to adjust timing without a timing light.


If it starts to run better and you decide to buy it. Do these:

-Install 300zx fuel filter
-Good plugs gapped to .27-.31
-Change all fluids coolant, oil (straight 50 weight), tranny fluid (redline...), waybe add water wetter to coolant since summer is coming.
-Run no more than 10-11 psi on a stock intercooler until you get a front mount.
-Brakes, rotors, brake fluid............................................. ...............

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S13_SX

Well I already bought the car. The wiring was done by a shop. there is one sensor down by the air filter that isn't plugged into anything. I got mine for 3200, came with slotted rotors, braided brake lines, 91 front end, Enkei wheels and new tires, tein S types/kyb agx's and a set of coilovers.

S13_SX

someone help me please

HaLo

Did you redo your compression test? Check also for leaky injectors, I know my car had a whole hard time starting up because of 1 leaky injector.

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-> HaLo
Race Car: '98 E36 BMW M3
Daily Driver: '08 Fiji Blue Honda Civic Si
SOLD: 01 GPW Honda S2000
PARTED: 93 Pearl White 240SX LE Fastback w/SR20DET
SOLD: 93 Super White 240SX SE Convertible w/Silvia Front

S13_SX

I dont think its that. I think whats causing it to start hard is the #1 coil pack is not all the way plugged in do to the 10mm bolt being broken off inside of the valve cover. I can hold it down and have a buddy start it and it starts way easier. And no I have not redone the compression test. Its snowing here so fuck that.

the head

120 is in spec according to the FSM the reason the DUR you comp tested was higher is due to the fact that those motors run higher compression first fix the damn coilpack bolt get an easy out set from sears and extract teh old bolt then *gasp* go buy a bolt that is the same size.

once you have done that and fixed that problem then we continue to fix other things AFTER THIS IS COMPLETED.

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aznpoopy

problem solving one step at a time... start with things that are blatantly wrong. cross one out, move on to the next. trying to diagnose issues while keeping track of 50 problems is just going to give you a headache.

S13_SX

yeah but the State of Ohio has a Used car lemon law. I wanted to find out if my rings were fried before I went any further or else I would have gave the car back. I thought factory specs was 156psi, with a minimum of 128psi. When I get out of class today im going to get the bolt out, I ordered a new VC gasket and spark plug gaskets that shoul dbe coming thursday. I figured out how to time it as well from searching. So I think Thursday on my day off im going pop the valve cover off, clean the inside out of all the oil that leaked down into the spark plug wells, install the gaskets, put it all back together and time it. So you guys think after that it should be running good?

aznpoopy

there's only one way to find out...

btw i don't know how lemon law would apply to a car with an illegal engine. i don't know if you would have been covered under that.

ace240sx

You probably fried your coil pack too, if it lifts off the spark plug that will damage it.

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S13_SX

Thats very true, I also don't think the State would like people selling illegal things either lol so its almost like he'd be forced to do something about it.
And about the coil pack being fried, well yeah it definately came off the spark plug, when I get it bolted back in and the car fixed what will it be acting like if it is infact the #1 cylinder coil pack is fried?

the head

IIRC comp is 150 to 120 and I highly doubt you can enact a lemon law on a used car that is not technically street legal. Most of the time with engines you got 100+ or like 7 psi i will let you guess which one is good and which one is bad. So sell it now or fxxxin fix it but quit posting until you fix the probelm or get rid of the car!

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I never knew you could do that with an eggplant