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View Full Version : DIY Motor Mounts + Tranny mount


Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 12:55 PM
I got these motor mounts for free, I just had to pay $17 for shipping. So, yeah cost me $17.

Anyhow, these were susposed to be done weeks ago, but I keep forgetting the caulk gun.

So, first off, puchase a caulk gun, and 2 bottles of window weld/polyurethane. I went to my local Orchard Supply Hardware, and they were $7.xx+tax. I thought all I needed were one, but meh found out that wasn't enough. Also, get a pair of gloves, and a small box so that you don't get into a big mess.

Your clean untouched stock worn out mounts.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1359copy.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1362copy.jpg
Just squeeze it all in, I used a sqaure piece of cardboard to mash it in there, and wipped off the excess to give it a cleaner look.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1365copy.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1364copy.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1363copy.jpg
Tranny mount
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/smogtech/DIYmounts/PICT1361copy.jpg

I didn't think I was going to take pics, so that's why they're nearly completed. :) I'll have to wait a few days for them to "cure" then they'll go in my S14.
Total cost to redo 3 mounts about $40(with the purchase of old mounts).
Questions? Comments?

Var
05-06-2005, 01:07 PM
can you use dry dog poo? if so, how long is the curing period for dog poo? j/k. :)

seroiusly V, i'm just interested to know how stiff it's gonna be. I ordered Kazama motor mounts but i friggin lost them !!!! i've looked eveywhere in my garage. wtf ..i may have to ghetto rig mine too.

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 01:15 PM
WTFeezy how do you loose mounts? :( Yeah I'll let you guys know how it feels as soon as they're installed.

My engine mounts don't seem too bad, but my tranny mount feels shot. Shifter goes wooble wooble.

pr240sx
05-06-2005, 01:41 PM
Nice but I think that you used the wrong polyurethane
Its supose to be window weld (black)
Used by glass shops
Anyway, nice writeup

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 01:53 PM
Well.. I wouldn't say it's wrong, but just not the one that most guys use.
If my shifter shakes worse than before..then yeah it's wrong. If it doesn't, then it's right for me.

pr240sx
05-06-2005, 02:01 PM
I remember a post while back ago that the shifter moving was actually the car moving while the engine/tranny dont.
Anyway,you can always remove that jung and use the real stuff.

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 02:08 PM
How do you know it's junk if you haven't used it?

Var
05-06-2005, 02:15 PM
if you read the bottle it says "Remains Flexible"..but it may work anyways.

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 02:32 PM
How can polyeurethane not be flexible?

3M's site.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GS33W3194Bgs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/bgel_GSZL3DWQM4bl/gvel_WWR6DCKBSPgl/theme_us_aad_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html


Flow grade sealant developed to stop leaks and as a supplementary seal on all gasketless windshield and backlite car models. Flows easily into pinholes and suspected water leaks. Dries fast into flexible, rubbery seal.

I know 3M makes awsome products, this would have been my choice. But it wasn't available from where I bought it from.

Anyone else wanna shit on this thread? Go for it.

infinitexsound
05-06-2005, 02:34 PM
same thing different color... VAR how did u lose motor mounts guy?

Dousan_PG
05-06-2005, 02:38 PM
aaah you bought the wrong stuff!
that type is TOO SOFT! it wont be rock hard
you need the industrial type that is NOT for windows and such
need the one for concretes and what not
we tried taht and it was WAY TOO SOFT
get the right stuff (brown and yellow tube iiirc) and it is rock hard
thats what we (myself and maeda) used!!

that stuff you got WONT BE SOLID
mines like solid
interior resonates so much at traffic lights
motor doesnt move a bit (watched it on the dyno)
hehe.
it rules.
those solid mounts all 3 w/ a solid shifter (URAS shifter) its great. so nice. i love a solid drivetrain. :)

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 02:39 PM
BAHHHHHHHHHHHh

Shit doesn't help if you don't provide a pic. As long as it was better than before I'll be happy.

Dousan_PG
05-06-2005, 02:40 PM
maeda can get a pic, he did his a few days ago! we went to home depot and bought the right stuff. comes out a poopy brown color, looks like caramel, but dont eat it. ill call him to post it.

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 02:43 PM
Homedepot is across the street from my work. I went to OSH cause it's closer to my house. As long as it's better than my stocks, is what I'm really concerned about(can't see why not). I still have 2 sets of motor mounts left, so I have plenty of mounts to test them on. :)

Var
05-06-2005, 02:51 PM
Anyone else wanna shit on this thread? Go for it.



POOO!!!
:fart: :fart: :fart: :fart:

same thing different color... VAR how did u lose motor mounts guy?


?

krustindumm
05-06-2005, 02:58 PM
I used some Urethane caulking from the local hardware store on my car, and a friends car (both 4G civic's). Almost totally eliminated wheel hop :D

It doesn't matter that it won't get entirely hard, it fills the voids and stiffens it alot anyway. On my brothers car (AWD Talon) we filled the mounts with silicone because he daily drove the car. It is much softer, but still helps to eliminate engine movement, without as much vibration.

I think choice of a fill material is upto the person doing it. You can get harder or softer depending on your goals and use of the car.

infinitexsound
05-06-2005, 03:39 PM
talkin about the grey one and black one var..........

projectRDM
05-06-2005, 04:49 PM
aaah you bought the wrong stuff!
that type is TOO SOFT! it wont be rock hard
you need the industrial type that is NOT for windows and such
need the one for concretes and what not
we tried taht and it was WAY TOO SOFT
get the right stuff (brown and yellow tube iiirc) and it is rock hard
thats what we (myself and maeda) used!!

that stuff you got WONT BE SOLID
mines like solid
interior resonates so much at traffic lights
motor doesnt move a bit (watched it on the dyno)
hehe.
it rules.
those solid mounts all 3 w/ a solid shifter (URAS shifter) its great. so nice. i love a solid drivetrain. :)


You guys are missing a big point here. Solid or not, they're now at least complete instead of having large gaping holes in them. Anything is an upgrade, just because it's not concrete 'JDM dRiFt' solid doesn't mean it was pointless to do.

alkemyst
05-06-2005, 05:06 PM
Nice but I think that you used the wrong polyurethane
Its supose to be window weld (black)
Used by glass shops
Anyway, nice writeup

Windoweld is black, hondabond (the equivalent) is that color.

I used hondabond on a saturn and had good and not stiff results.

It's less stiff than fully poly and definitely metal, which people do but is insane on a daily driver.

I have kept moving my KTS Beta Coilovers down from 7/5 on the dampner settings (15 being hardest)....over the last 6 months to 1/1...

Var
05-06-2005, 06:31 PM
talkin about the grey one and black one var..........


i dont understand the question.. But when i replied to your question(how do you lose motor mounts) with a question mark >>> ?


what i meant was i dunno WTF happened. it was it a box. and it's gone. BTW do i know you?

Maeda
05-06-2005, 06:46 PM
Ah. Sorry to tell you this smog tech but I bought that stuff first and tried it on a piece of plexi...

It turns into something very similar to caulking.... (go press the seals in your shower to see how 'stiff' this stuff gets)

This is the stuff dousan pointed out to me when giving me a ride to homedepot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/Maeda/mount.jpg

Ritz S14
05-06-2005, 06:48 PM
Well, the s14 is a DD anyways, so I guess it's not too bad. I'll try the brown stuff on my s13, if I decide the stuff I'm using is too soft..

Dousan_PG
05-06-2005, 06:54 PM
yeah the brown goop
that stuff is STIFF
i love resonating interior..then again all i have is a dash and 2 seats with a steering wheel and shifter stuff..... hehe...

Maeda
05-06-2005, 06:55 PM
i love resonating interior..then again all i have is a dash and 2 seats with a steering wheel and shifter stuff..... hehe...

I don't, but according to a good source, if you only fill one it'll be plenty stiff and wont have any shaking....

But if it shakes... meh. I hardly drive my DD =)

WILDACEX187
05-06-2005, 07:40 PM
smog im looking to do this in the future. let me know how it turns out and how much vibration u get inside cabin please.

SilviaSativa
05-06-2005, 08:02 PM
I used the brown pooey looking stuff too, rock solid.
The interior shakes so much I can't tell if the phone is vibrating in my pocket!
Vision gets blurry when my heads pushed back against the headrest!

I love it!

Gladman
05-06-2005, 09:13 PM
If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.

I personally do urethane mounts, but if you want hardcore, do aluminum.

sr20dets13
05-06-2005, 10:03 PM
i bought some for my motor and tranny mounts... its was from home depot and it wasnt the 3m window weld shit its was the black and yellow tube.. it just is polyurathane... it took about 5 days to cure totally.. but it worked extremely well.. my buddy has an sr with his stock mounts and his car and mine are night and day..

theronin
05-06-2005, 10:16 PM
If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.

thats not too bad of an idea...

theronin
05-06-2005, 10:17 PM
If you want solid mounts, get a 2.5" thick piece of aluminum round bar, put a 12mm hole through it and run a bolt through it. A lot less ghetto, lighter and more hardcore.

thats not too bad of an idea... but wouldnt the aluminum start to cave from the weight?

Var
05-06-2005, 10:20 PM
what about filling the piping with chassis foam? then you'd be the ultimate gangster

mjjstang
05-07-2005, 05:19 AM
I did this about 8 months back and went to put the sr in, It took me 8 hours, (no joke) to get the engine to sit in the mounts, after 7:59 of struggling I took out the urethane with a screwdriver using my rage, and then the motor slid in like butter. maybe ill redo it one day with the stuff meph was talkin about.

someguy_240
05-07-2005, 10:42 AM
jus use epoxy set22

wutangben
05-07-2005, 11:40 AM
it's all about windoweld.

Rayne
08-08-2006, 10:16 PM
I know I am digging this thread out of the grave, but I do not care.

I have a question that is relevant to the topic and has not been discussed in this thread or any other thread, that I know of.

Anyway....when the mounts are refilled and the engine is finally put back on the mounts, is the engine lifted back up to stock height?

Ritz S14
08-08-2006, 11:24 PM
The motor would only be slightly lifted if you "impregnate" the mounts in an "unloaded" position.

Basically.. the mounts are 15 years old, they'll sit exactly how you pulled them out.

Rayne
08-09-2006, 10:43 PM
Thank you for the answer. I thought there might be a slight lift. I am going to fill my shot motor mounts this weekend.

I will post any helpful information I discover later.

ManoNegra
08-10-2006, 12:00 PM
haha... on my first S13 a few years back my tranny mount died on me. Horrible shaking at idle. I was getting Nismo mounts soon so I just bought the stuff at Home Depot and squirted the goo into the mount... while still on the car. Drove it the next day and felt so much better.
Hey, it was ghetto but it worked well for about 1 month.
I got a set of S14 KA mounts laying around... hmmmm....

Neejay
08-10-2006, 01:06 PM
haha... on my first S13 a few years back my tranny mount died on me. Horrible shaking at idle. I was getting Nismo mounts soon so I just bought the stuff at Home Depot and squirted the goo into the mount... while still on the car. Drove it the next day and felt so much better.
Hey, it was ghetto but it worked well for about 1 month.
I got a set of S14 KA mounts laying around... hmmmm....
So what happend after 1 month? I always thought about this, but I figured it'd benefit me to get the engine back to stock height.

ManoNegra
08-10-2006, 01:13 PM
I got my set of Nismo mounts and tossed the old ones then. The Home Depot special worked fine but if I were to do it again I would follow the instructions above: take KA mounts off, fill with goo, wait a few days and then reinstall. Cheap and effective.

Neejay
08-10-2006, 01:32 PM
I got my set of Nismo mounts and tossed the old ones then. The Home Depot special worked fine but if I were to do it again I would follow the instructions above: take KA mounts off, fill with goo, wait a few days and then reinstall. Cheap and effective.
Luckily I bought some used ones that are oem with only about 60k miles on them (or so the seller claimed). So the swapping should be easy. I bought the urethane like 2 months ago, but I've been hesitant to try it because Im trying to sell the car...wouldn't want to mess anything up which would prevent me from selling it.

I bought the huge urethane bottle, so the gun is expensive, lol.

ManoNegra
08-10-2006, 01:51 PM
the caulken (sp?) gun was ~10 iirc. If you're selling the car then perhaps you shouldn't bother. Mounts won't make a buyer want to give more $$$.

420sx
08-10-2006, 01:54 PM
i did alot of pb mounts in last 2 years and they all hold up real well. +1 for industrial strength polyurethane! 3 99 in home depo u need 2 of them and a gun. thats it.

S14DB
08-10-2006, 01:57 PM
Another thing is to drill dead center into the side of the mount and drain out the silicone gel. Then fill the void with Window Weld.

420sx
08-10-2006, 02:09 PM
but thats more work.

slideways2004
08-10-2006, 02:21 PM
Another thing is to drill dead center into the side of the mount and drain out the silicone gel. Then fill the void with Window Weld.

i always thought that was oil.

S13Eye
08-11-2006, 03:24 AM
i always thought that was oil.
How does a motor mount work than? I thought it was solid. Is it like a hydraulic cushion? If the silicone fluid leaks out, will the mount compress and cause the engine to drop? Haaa ha, breast implants... :hahano:

S14DB
08-11-2006, 11:52 AM
Stock KA mounts leak like fake tities. Nismo's are solid with no silicone fluid.

HyperTek
08-11-2006, 02:11 PM
i got solid aluminum motor mounts and went this way with the tranny mount =rock solid

tubedae86
08-11-2006, 04:15 PM
lol, think mine are going to be solid in my rolla? Cant wait to get teh cross member powder coated!

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/Tubedae86/BodyworkAE014.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/Tubedae86/BodyworkAE010.jpg

krustindumm
08-12-2006, 12:25 AM
I made solid mounts for my KA. I just welded plates across the factory mounts. The engine doesnt move :)

Rayne
09-11-2006, 11:10 PM
Here is some useful information I found discovered.

1. Do not buy the "Liquid Nails" Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, particularly if you fill your mounts as described in the original post.

I think I could have done a better job on the motor mount I was able to get off so I am going to buy some used mounts and do a write up on what I do differently. I will post the pictures and information in this thread after everything is said and done.

TipStylez
09-11-2006, 11:39 PM
^keep my updated. Il be doing this soon, and been looking for the best way to do this and what to use.