So I Beleive I Just Solved The Infamous S14 Tach Glitch

[Sileighty_85]

Sorry Guys I like to tell stories on how i figure shit out haha

The Story:
So while ago I noticed my Tach was glitching (bouncing around and reading way higher than I was actually reving at) while Im driving and then began to just Peg out at 8K as soon as the engine starts.

I knew it was Tach related and not wiring cuz if i hit the dash it would Peg out if it was bouncing around.

So i pulled it out today to check it out and see if I could find anything oblivious wrong with it.

Well couldnt see anything that stood out so with the engine running and custer pluged in I was doing the "Wiggle Test" well when i was screwing in the Tach "Signal" screw I noticed that the Tach would jump.

Pulled out the Tach and inspected the Signal screw solder points to see that i looked like the Solder points were cracked.


The Fix:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Miyukis%20Silvia/S14TachFix.jpg

Just took a Soldering Iron to the solder joints of the screw plate and bam she worked again! Dont Add Solder just "Re-Melt" Them

So if you got this issue try this before trying to source a "Newer" Tach.
Its Free and Easy

FYI: This was for a Kouki S14, Not sure if the Zenki is the same way, But just look for the Words "Sig" on the top side of the board

[Ceepo]

Nice, good write up, ill keep this in mine if my tach does this ever, i havn't had any issues with it yet...

[holemilk00]

sweet the car I just bought is doing the same thing, I'll have to try this out. haha

[Sileighty_85]

sweet the car I just bought is doing the same thing, I'll have to try this out. haha

Let me know if this works to see if its just not mine

[sal240sx]

Mine started doing the same thing recently, was just too lazy to inspect. Thanks for the heads up.

[redline racer510]

on the topic of tachs what did you do to have the correct tach readout for your rb swapped s14 sileighty?

[Sileighty_85]

on the topic of tachs what did you do to have the correct tach readout for your rb swapped s14 sileighty?

There is a Potentiometer on the Tach that you can use to adjust it.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Miyukis%20Silvia/DSCN4110-1.jpg

I dialed it in by ear but think its a little off, cuz 5,000 RPM's sounds like 8,000 unless thats just how RB's are

I have an Aftermarket Tach I'll probably wire up to calibrate it better

[S14DB]

Mine just started doing this. Going to Re-Flow that joint before I go hunting for a new tach...

Thank You for posting this.

[Mirage]

Sorry to be a killjoy but the UK guys have been doing this on SXOC for awhile :). Those UK guys get cluster problems way worse than we do.

Good info to share nonetheless, i'm sure it will help people out.

It fixed my tach bouncing like crazy between 3500-5500, but I think I overheated it because afterwards the needle was slow, I would bounce off the limiter at 7500 when the tach was only at ~6900, but if the rpms were steady they would read fine (matching with PowerFC rpm readout). I ended up mixing and matching parts from clusters I already had laying around to keep my 7000 rpm redline tach and 260 km/h speedo

[Sileighty_85]

Mine just started doing this. Going to Re-Flow that joint before I go hunting for a new tach...

Thank You for posting this.

NP :)
I hope if fixes your issues

Sorry to be a killjoy but the UK guys have been doing this on SXOC for awhile :). Those UK guys get cluster problems way worse than we do.

Well i dont go on the UK fourms and not too sure how many other ppl do here.

I search quiet a bit when it started happening only to find ppl saying to source a used tach that worked.

[mendozasport]

i also think its a kouki only problem havent seen any zenkis doing this but dont hold that against me i could be wrong

[S14DB]

I found this last night.

S14a speedo gauges - SXOC Bulletin Board (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=404839)

[S14DB]

The Screw posts looked intact but the signal one was low on solder. The motor mounts looked to have a lot of flux on them.

I re-flowed all of them. Cooked off the flux off the motor connectors and it still acts up. It doesn't slam into the clock post and hover at 8k. It only goes to 7k. idles about 1k lower too at 2500-3k. I think I'm going to give up and hunt for a new tach.

[Sileighty_85]

damn that sucks to hear I was hoping that would be it.

Maybe just on some tachs?

But hell still worth a shot before getting another one

[P-Funk alot]

i have pretty much the same problem bouncing tach imma try this tomorrow afternoon and see if it the issue. i kind of figured it to be something like this seeing as how on cold days it will work. but as it heats up it starts getting all jumpy. ill do a step by step write up with pictures to help out.

[S14DB]

I put another cluster in and it reads fine. Guess I have to go tach shopping.

[holemilk00]

Ok I did this, and it fixed my problem. All I had to do was basically touch my iron to the contacts and pull away. I put the cluster back in and it works great. Thanks again man, good find.

[koukistylejdm]

hope it could work on a silvia kouki it does the exact same problem sometimes hit 8k on idle n stuff like that i will try it

[jtmny1999]

Good info thanks!

[SLEEPYDUB]

Pat, what about if your gauge works just fine, but just reads higher than the actual rpms? It seems to work fine, but when its at say 2000rpm, its readying around 4000, and it even gets into redline with normal driving, i mean its way off. Do you think this could be the fix for that too?

[DriftEmperor88]

Your fuckn awesome. I would love to keep reading about your stories :D for they will help me in the future!!

[Sileighty_85]

haha thanks guys, unfortunately it seems like it was only a temp fix for me :(

Mine started messing up again a few months ago, I pulled the Tach again and re-flowed all the major points again, but no luck, I think It might be an issue with the tach motor

Im thinking about trying to use some Zenki components to see if I can fix the Kouki one since Kouki clusters are more scarce/expensive

EDIT: NVR mind didnt realize the Zenki Cluster was so different
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Miyukis%20Silvia/DSCN5582.jpg

[DriftEmperor88]

damn that sucks. Well i just fixed mine. lets hope mine last forever!!

oh yeah and for the guy above me. mine was doing that for a little while and then start jumping all over the place again. so it might just work. doesn't hurt to give it a try unless you totally just blow and mess everything up haha. its pretty simple but takes time 15mins for me.

[Okinawandrifter87]

Has anyone ever come up with an official solution to this problem? Yes I know you can just replace the cluster, however Im not just looking to replace the problem I would like to actually fix and solve it.

[240zach]

@Sileighty_85

check out my thread if you could and put in your .02.. cause i have no idea wtf is goin on. lol

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/448700-96-s14-tach-issue.html

[Okinawandrifter87]

Hey Sileighty did you try this as well?

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/382091-95-s14-gauge-cluster-problems.html

[240zach]

^^wtf are you doing? just posting stupid shit?

[Breitling]

Sorry Guys I like to tell stories on how i figure shit out haha

The Story:
So while ago I noticed my Tach was glitching (bouncing around and reading way higher than I was actually reving at) while Im driving and then began to just Peg out at 8K as soon as the engine starts.

I knew it was Tach related and not wiring cuz if i hit the dash it would Peg out if it was bouncing around.

So i pulled it out today to check it out and see if I could find anything oblivious wrong with it.

Well couldnt see anything that stood out so with the engine running and custer pluged in I was doing the "Wiggle Test" well when i was screwing in the Tach "Signal" screw I noticed that the Tach would jump.

Pulled out the Tach and inspected the Signal screw solder points to see that i looked like the Solder points were cracked.


The Fix:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Miyukis%20Silvia/S14TachFix.jpg

Just took a Soldering Iron to the solder joints of the screw plate and bam she worked again! Dont Add Solder just "Re-Melt" Them

So if you got this issue try this before trying to source a "Newer" Tach.
Its Free and Easy

FYI: This was for a Kouki S14, Not sure if the Zenki is the same way, But just look for the Words "Sig" on the top side of the board



Old thread bump.... what points is he referring to?

[Skilz10179]

Old thread bump.... what points is he referring to?


Probably the two with red circles around them...

[1slowsilvia]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

I was was in doubt like man this isnt gonna work :(

reflowed and it kept small hope.... and bam worked!

you are the man!

[blksylv]

hey sorry for bumping an old thread but has anybody tried this with a zenki tach?

[bigs]

just did this on my kouki tach and it worked like a charm.

I hit all the points that hold the motor in and all the screw points just to be safe.

[Paint209]

i just tried this on mine, and it didnt work. maybe its time for a new tach!

[DuckyD]

hey sorry for bumping an old thread but has anybody tried this with a zenki tach?

I took off the back of my Zenki tach, and it is much different.
My tach looks more like this:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_OXFQfeHs-8Q/SxHTyKSCrFI/AAAAAAAAAJU/cN7s9kG-Kbk/s800/IMG_1373.JPG

Found on this thread.
Finally! The REAL fix for a bouncing tach - Maxima Forums (http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/603636-finally-real-fix-bouncing-tach.html)
Haven't tried replacing the "cap" yet.

I don't know if my tach is like most Zenki's, or different.

[Jon5661]

I know this is a old thread but I fixed my rpm meter on my zenki s14. I re soldered the connections behind the rpm motor and I also cleaned it with rubbing alcohal before re soldering since there was corrosion on solder points. Works like a champ. If anyone needs help don't be scared to pm me.

[steeds]

Recently bought an all stock 98 Kouki that had this issue. Confirming that this DOES work. Haven’t driven it but at start up and revving the engine the tach seems just fine now. Thank you.

[Down2Earth]

Not to dig up an old thread, but heres a suggestion:

wick the old solder, and replace with leaded solder, it'll likely last longer than you will at that point.