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Old 11-28-2010, 12:25 PM   #1
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So I Beleive I Just Solved The Infamous S14 Tach Glitch

Sorry Guys I like to tell stories on how i figure shit out haha

The Story:
So while ago I noticed my Tach was glitching (bouncing around and reading way higher than I was actually reving at) while Im driving and then began to just Peg out at 8K as soon as the engine starts.

I knew it was Tach related and not wiring cuz if i hit the dash it would Peg out if it was bouncing around.

So i pulled it out today to check it out and see if I could find anything oblivious wrong with it.

Well couldnt see anything that stood out so with the engine running and custer pluged in I was doing the "Wiggle Test" well when i was screwing in the Tach "Signal" screw I noticed that the Tach would jump.

Pulled out the Tach and inspected the Signal screw solder points to see that i looked like the Solder points were cracked.


The Fix:



Just took a Soldering Iron to the solder joints of the screw plate and bam she worked again! Dont Add Solder just "Re-Melt" Them

So if you got this issue try this before trying to source a "Newer" Tach.
Its Free and Easy

FYI: This was for a Kouki S14, Not sure if the Zenki is the same way, But just look for the Words "Sig" on the top side of the board
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:28 PM   #2
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Nice, good write up, ill keep this in mine if my tach does this ever, i havn't had any issues with it yet...
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:49 PM   #3
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sweet the car I just bought is doing the same thing, I'll have to try this out. haha
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holemilk00 View Post
sweet the car I just bought is doing the same thing, I'll have to try this out. haha
Let me know if this works to see if its just not mine
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:45 PM   #5
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Mine started doing the same thing recently, was just too lazy to inspect. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:31 PM   #6
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on the topic of tachs what did you do to have the correct tach readout for your rb swapped s14 sileighty?
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline racer510 View Post
on the topic of tachs what did you do to have the correct tach readout for your rb swapped s14 sileighty?
There is a Potentiometer on the Tach that you can use to adjust it.



I dialed it in by ear but think its a little off, cuz 5,000 RPM's sounds like 8,000 unless thats just how RB's are

I have an Aftermarket Tach I'll probably wire up to calibrate it better
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:12 AM   #8
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Mine just started doing this. Going to Re-Flow that joint before I go hunting for a new tach...

Thank You for posting this.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:32 AM   #9
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Sorry to be a killjoy but the UK guys have been doing this on SXOC for awhile . Those UK guys get cluster problems way worse than we do.

Good info to share nonetheless, i'm sure it will help people out.

It fixed my tach bouncing like crazy between 3500-5500, but I think I overheated it because afterwards the needle was slow, I would bounce off the limiter at 7500 when the tach was only at ~6900, but if the rpms were steady they would read fine (matching with PowerFC rpm readout). I ended up mixing and matching parts from clusters I already had laying around to keep my 7000 rpm redline tach and 260 km/h speedo
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Mine just started doing this. Going to Re-Flow that joint before I go hunting for a new tach...

Thank You for posting this.
NP
I hope if fixes your issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirage View Post
Sorry to be a killjoy but the UK guys have been doing this on SXOC for awhile . Those UK guys get cluster problems way worse than we do.
Well i dont go on the UK fourms and not too sure how many other ppl do here.

I search quiet a bit when it started happening only to find ppl saying to source a used tach that worked.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:02 AM   #11
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i also think its a kouki only problem havent seen any zenkis doing this but dont hold that against me i could be wrong
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:19 AM   #12
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I found this last night.

S14a speedo gauges - SXOC Bulletin Board
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:50 PM   #13
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The Screw posts looked intact but the signal one was low on solder. The motor mounts looked to have a lot of flux on them.

I re-flowed all of them. Cooked off the flux off the motor connectors and it still acts up. It doesn't slam into the clock post and hover at 8k. It only goes to 7k. idles about 1k lower too at 2500-3k. I think I'm going to give up and hunt for a new tach.
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:56 PM   #14
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damn that sucks to hear I was hoping that would be it.

Maybe just on some tachs?

But hell still worth a shot before getting another one
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:00 PM   #15
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i have pretty much the same problem bouncing tach imma try this tomorrow afternoon and see if it the issue. i kind of figured it to be something like this seeing as how on cold days it will work. but as it heats up it starts getting all jumpy. ill do a step by step write up with pictures to help out.
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:11 PM   #16
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I put another cluster in and it reads fine. Guess I have to go tach shopping.
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Old 12-06-2010, 04:35 PM   #17
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Ok I did this, and it fixed my problem. All I had to do was basically touch my iron to the contacts and pull away. I put the cluster back in and it works great. Thanks again man, good find.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:36 PM   #18
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hope it could work on a silvia kouki it does the exact same problem sometimes hit 8k on idle n stuff like that i will try it
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:26 PM   #19
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Good info thanks!
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:05 AM   #20
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Pat, what about if your gauge works just fine, but just reads higher than the actual rpms? It seems to work fine, but when its at say 2000rpm, its readying around 4000, and it even gets into redline with normal driving, i mean its way off. Do you think this could be the fix for that too?
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:45 PM   #21
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Your fuckn awesome. I would love to keep reading about your stories for they will help me in the future!!
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:58 PM   #22
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haha thanks guys, unfortunately it seems like it was only a temp fix for me

Mine started messing up again a few months ago, I pulled the Tach again and re-flowed all the major points again, but no luck, I think It might be an issue with the tach motor

Im thinking about trying to use some Zenki components to see if I can fix the Kouki one since Kouki clusters are more scarce/expensive

EDIT: NVR mind didnt realize the Zenki Cluster was so different
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:27 PM   #23
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damn that sucks. Well i just fixed mine. lets hope mine last forever!!

oh yeah and for the guy above me. mine was doing that for a little while and then start jumping all over the place again. so it might just work. doesn't hurt to give it a try unless you totally just blow and mess everything up haha. its pretty simple but takes time 15mins for me.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:56 PM   #24
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Has anyone ever come up with an official solution to this problem? Yes I know you can just replace the cluster, however Im not just looking to replace the problem I would like to actually fix and solve it.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:35 PM   #25
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@Sileighty_85

check out my thread if you could and put in your .02.. cause i have no idea wtf is goin on. lol

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/448700...ach-issue.html
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:25 PM   #26
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Hey Sileighty did you try this as well?

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/382091...-problems.html
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:05 PM   #27
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^^wtf are you doing? just posting stupid shit?
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
Sorry Guys I like to tell stories on how i figure shit out haha

The Story:
So while ago I noticed my Tach was glitching (bouncing around and reading way higher than I was actually reving at) while Im driving and then began to just Peg out at 8K as soon as the engine starts.

I knew it was Tach related and not wiring cuz if i hit the dash it would Peg out if it was bouncing around.

So i pulled it out today to check it out and see if I could find anything oblivious wrong with it.

Well couldnt see anything that stood out so with the engine running and custer pluged in I was doing the "Wiggle Test" well when i was screwing in the Tach "Signal" screw I noticed that the Tach would jump.

Pulled out the Tach and inspected the Signal screw solder points to see that i looked like the Solder points were cracked.


The Fix:



Just took a Soldering Iron to the solder joints of the screw plate and bam she worked again! Dont Add Solder just "Re-Melt" Them

So if you got this issue try this before trying to source a "Newer" Tach.
Its Free and Easy

FYI: This was for a Kouki S14, Not sure if the Zenki is the same way, But just look for the Words "Sig" on the top side of the board


Old thread bump.... what points is he referring to?
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Old 07-23-2012, 07:27 AM   #29
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Old thread bump.... what points is he referring to?

Probably the two with red circles around them...
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:43 PM   #30
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THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

I was was in doubt like man this isnt gonna work

reflowed and it kept small hope.... and bam worked!

you are the man!
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