SR20DET: Turbo flange nuts backing off!!!

[Dee]

:bash::bash::bash: Ok I'm getting so sick of this crap, I'm having this annoying issue with the 4 nuts that holds the turbo to the manifold loosing up and giving me laggy boost and blown gaskets. I've had this turbo off 4 times in the last month to fix this same issue and I've tried new locking tabs, red loc-tite, and copper locknuts.

I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange?

[Sako]

This happened to almost every single SR that I have owned. I did exactly what you suggested; put spot welds on each of the nuts. If you want to pull it off, you can torque them a little and the spot welds break relatively easily.

[handinpants]

yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me

[Dee]

yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me

Yea I've been through two OEM Metal gaskets and I have 2 sets of those locking tabs, they just don't work for shit. I guess I'm just going to have to spot weld them.

[Sileighty_85]

Ive never had an issue with the locking tabs, but when i lock them down i try to knock them right on the nut and conform the corners of the tabs around the nut.

Basically I make the whole tab touch the nut. I use a 3/8 drive extension and a hammer

[kris]

You can also double up on nuts or get aircraft grade nuts.

The aircraft grade ones basically resist loosening due to vibration and heat better because (iirc) they have a slight change in thread pitch at the end. Downside is last time i checked you had to buy these in bulk and it was like 50 bucks for 100 of them or something.

A small tack weld works but makes it a bitch to remove i would avoid this unless you have no other option

[GroundPerformance]

I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well.

http://vwpartsdeal.ca/Store/images/MK4OvalLockingExhaustNut.jpg

[[email protected]]

i used small tack welds on mine. they havent backed off

[lok]

I used to tack weld mine but recently switched to safety wire.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l208/aukalok/2010-04-05195754.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l208/aukalok/2010-04-05195818.jpg

[UNITEDMASTER]

LIke said above make sure your xaust has all the hangers on it. One trick I have done is to use jam nuts(2 per stud) instead of regular nuts.

[GroundPerformance]

^^ Nice... Thats putting ElectroMagnetism to work so it doesn't back out. Mad props to you first time seeing this done.

[K_style]

:bash::bash::bash: Ok I'm getting so sick of this crap, I'm having this annoying issue with the 4 nuts that holds the turbo to the manifold loosing up and giving me laggy boost and blown gaskets. I've had this turbo off 4 times in the last month to fix this same issue and I've tried new locking tabs, red loc-tite, and copper locknuts.

I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange?


What kind of exhaust manifold do you have ? if you have some cheap ass chinese one.. that might cause it too.

T2 flange surface may not be flat...

[fliprayzin240sx]

Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off...

PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly?

[Dee]

This is why Zilvia is the best! :coold: I appreciate the responses in this thread, I've got a lot of option to consider hopefully one will work for me.


What kind of exhaust manifold do you have ? if you have some cheap ass chinese one.. that might cause it too.

T2 flange surface may not be flat...

I'm actually still using the stock manifold and stock T25 with a Circuit sport elbow, but my downpipe is solid with no flex anywhere and the hanger bushings are rock solid so I guess it could be vibrating them loose.

Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off...

PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly?

Well it seems like a pretty contraption, you torque the nut down and knock the tab down on the flush side of the nut correct? I've done that and alternatively I've also knocked the tabs so that they wrap around the corner of the nut and that didn't work either they still loosened up and blew gasket.

[90hatchie]

FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Locking Head Nut (http://www.frsport.com/FRSport-Turbo-Outlet-8mm--1-25pitch--Locking-Head-Nut_p_3096.html)

never had a nut back off after these

[Sileighty_85]

what kinda gasket are you using?
an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap?

[Dee]

what kinda gasket are you using?
an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap?

I use nothing but Nissan multi-layered metal gasket, the last two i've blown came out looking like shrapnel out of an I.E.D or something lol.

[K_style]

I'm actually still using the stock manifold and stock T25 with a Circuit sport elbow, but my downpipe is solid with no flex anywhere and the hanger bushings are rock solid so I guess it could be vibrating them loose.




I do not have Flex either.. I do not think you need it unless your engine sits Horizontal which most FWD cars..

[Sileighty_85]

I use nothing but Nissan multi-layered metal gasket, the last two i've blown came out looking like shrapnel out of an I.E.D or something lol.
Thats crazy, those are some tough gaskets, Ive had mine for over 4 years with out a problem. seem like another issue though, hows the engine run?

[Carbomb]

NORDLOCK.


google it.

[Dee]

Thats crazy, those are some tough gaskets, Ive had mine for over 4 years with out a problem. seem like another issue though, hows the engine run?

The engine runs good and health, I don't have any reason to believe there is something wrong with my motor; it's just between my incompetence or just plain ole using the wrong hardware for the job.



Nord lock looks promising but GD effing expensive.

[S13NismoStyle]

I use these.

McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93795a230/=84c7g0)

They are Oval lock with conical top. The are deforming and dont vibrate loose. Just like the ones pictured above and the ones on FRsport.com

Except these are $5.18 for 50 of them. Good stuff.

Not reusable, but you get so many of them it doesnt matter.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Start off by checking your engine mount. Pop the hood, rev the engine and see how much the engine will twist to one side. If it seems alot, time to change the mounts. If the mounts are shot and your Downpipe/exhaust is too wound up, then itll find the weakest point in your exhaust system to give. In this case, its the turbo/manifold bolt. This is the other reason why I recommend a flex pipe too. Aftermarket exhaust and DP doesnt have the same fitment compared to OEM parts. Something is always off, adding a flex pipe in the downpipe gives you a lil bit of, well, flexibility.

[niSm095]

.............

[n240sxfnatic]

im surprised no one's mentioned these...factory hardware-

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1164098593086_2114_35396114

easy and effective.

Reading > You

[Sileighty_85]

im surprised no one's mentioned these...factory hardware-

easy and effective.

Yeah we did their called "Locking Tabs"

[stockbee]

I didn't have time to read all of the responses to this thread but I figured I'd throw in my two cents on what has worked for me thus far.

Advanced Auto parts should have some studs and nuts that strip the threads on the studs when you tighten them on. This keeps them from backing off under pressure/load.

They are in the nuts/bolts section. Take a stud with you to make sure you are getting the right sizing for your part. They should be like thirteen bucks and should come with enough for you to do this at least twice if need be. I've only had to do this once!!!!

[fullthrottle]

Yeah we did their called "Locking Tabs"

I was actually a little mad that after I took the time to read the whole thing that that guy didnt and just went straight to posting that picture. Ill get over it.

[UNITEDMASTER]

To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed.

PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion

[greenman100]

I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well.

http://vwpartsdeal.ca/Store/images/MK4OvalLockingExhaustNut.jpg


I have these, had to get a ton from McMaster. PM me if you want a set. Once I started using them, no problems.

[Dee]

I have these, had to get a ton from McMaster. PM me if you want a set. Once I started using them, no problems.

I just order a bag of 50 from McMaster using the link provided above, I'm hoping these will help.

To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed.

PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion


I drove on the exhaust leak for about 40 minutes, it blew on my way home. I was under the impression that the stock cast manifold flange would not warp though?, I'll check it anyway though once I take everything out.

[s14_sr20_silvia]

I bought these: Circuit Sports Turbo Inlet Stud-Nut Combo [ CS-EXstud ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication (http://www.enjukuracing.com/circuit-sports-turbo-inlet-studnut-combo-p-8059.html) because mine kept coming loose too even WITH the factory locking tabs in place (not 100% sure I put those tight enough though).

I also put two nuts on each bolt (one set of locking nuts as well as seen in picture) which, along with getting new motor mounts, seems to have solved my problem.

http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq2/s14sr20silvia/IMG_3182.jpg

[Dee]

I bought these: Circuit Sports Turbo Inlet Stud-Nut Combo [ CS-EXstud ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication (http://www.enjukuracing.com/circuit-sports-turbo-inlet-studnut-combo-p-8059.html) because mine kept coming loose too even WITH the factory locking tabs in place (not 100% sure I put those tight enough though).

I also put two nuts on each bolt (one set of locking nuts as well as seen in picture) which, along with getting new motor mounts, seems to have solved my problem.

http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq2/s14sr20silvia/IMG_3182.jpg

I tried this method on one of the outer studs that i could reach without taking everything loose and it seemed to stick. I drove it for a week and it hasn't budged. My question is were you able to double-nut the inner-studs closest to the block? From what i recall there was barely enough room to get one nut on.


I'm in the process of removing my turbo again tonight to try to get this resolved once and for all.



EDIT: Looks like those nuts from McMaster did the trick......I'll be using those from now on! Thanks

[s14_sr20_silvia]

Yeah.. I've got 2 nuts on each bolt.. did it with the motor out of the car though, and it was still difficult to get the block-side nuts on.

[devlmaycry]

I had an issue with the nuts on my turbo elbow that connects to the down pipe coming off and ended up getting jam nuts and lock-tight and it hasn't came loose since.